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Philosophelon
Member
HAHAHA!!!! Micro Gro my ass 
. That is a gorgeous, professional setup.
I do have a question for ya though:
Why did you decide to use drywall for the walls in the rooms instead of OSB/plywood?
. That is a gorgeous, professional setup.I do have a question for ya though:
Why did you decide to use drywall for the walls in the rooms instead of OSB/plywood?
M
micro gro
I've looked into the TrimPro, but I'm not satisfied with quality.
Thanks.HAHAHA!!!! Micro Gro my ass
I do have a question for ya though:
Why did you decide to use drywall for the walls in the rooms instead of OSB/plywood?
Drywall has qualities and properties that are superior to plywood for this use. Two huge ones that come to mind are cost and material density.
Combination of Bubble Bags (w/ machine) & kief screen depending on mood.
Philosophelon
Member
Cost is only a concern if I'm relatively certain that I'm not gonna fuck something up attempting to DIY it
. I assume that the material density is a concern for sound dampening purposes -- does drywall really absorb sound that much better than plywood?Also, is RH an issue with drywall? I keep it pretty high in veg.
To be perfectly honest, I've never even tried using drywall -- I'm not the most skilled builder by a long shot (it's far and away the most difficult and tedious part of growing for me), so I've always just used OSB because it seems easier to work with than drywall. Which brings me to my final questions:
Do you or your associates have a background in construction?
How difficult is it to cut/hang/seal drywall compared to OSB/plywood?
I suppose I could just subcontract the drywall installation next time I build a room, especially if it has significantly lower material cost than 5/8" OSB. Then again, I don't trust anyone I haven't known for a long time not to rob me, so I don't think I could bring myself to do it. I may just have to add a contractor to my little family one of these days
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M
micro gro
Never failing is a good thing!
In my experience, properly installed drywall does have better sound transmission stopping capabilities than plywood; but I can't really say that I've done a same-thickness comparison. I think a large part of the reason of drywall being a superior finish is the ability to seal all seams completely using joint compound or similar. I think it's easier to cover / finish drywall surfaces compared to plywood, as well.Cost is only a concern if I'm relatively certain that I'm not gonna fuck something up attempting to DIY it
Also, is RH an issue with drywall? I keep it pretty high in veg.
To be perfectly honest, I've never even tried using drywall -- I'm not the most skilled builder by a long shot (it's far and away the most difficult and tedious part of growing for me), so I've always just used OSB because it seems easier to work with than drywall. Which brings me to my final questions:
Do you or your associates have a background in construction?
How difficult is it to cut/hang/seal drywall compared to OSB/plywood?
I suppose I could just subcontract the drywall installation next time I build a room, especially if it has significantly lower material cost than 5/8" OSB. Then again, I don't trust anyone I haven't known for a long time not to rob me, so I don't think I could bring myself to do it. I may just have to add a contractor to my little family one of these days
If you can afford it and safely handle the logistics, I highly recommend subcontracting the drywall installation.
RH (mold, that is) can be an issue with drywall. There is a type of gypsum board (green board) they make for bathrooms and high-humidity installations. However, research seemed to indicate to me that they weren't worth the extra added cost for the potential benefit. For very humid / wet conditions, I'd recommend fiberglass-reinforced resin panels (FRP).
Drywall isn't terribly difficult to work with per se, it's just very tedious, dusty / dirty work. Cutting drywall is fairly simple & straight-forward; actually, easier than wood. I don't know what the professional technique is, but the best way I found to do it is to score twice on the white side, snap 90 degrees, and score lightly at the seam on the brown / paper side to separate cleanly. Scoring twice isn't necessary to get a straight cut, but makes a flatter, cleaner edge.
I've found that the quality of the framing job will dictate the difficulty level & amount of time it will take for the drywall job. Flat, well-shimmed surfaces with precise stud centering and backing at the right locations is key to a smooth & efficient drywall job. At least in my limited experience.
None of us have background in construction. Most skills were obtained through necessity for growing. For instance: after running into limitations of a couple 15/20A circuits, I had to learn how to do electrical work. I needed to run water to and from location A to location B, so I learned how to work with pipes, etc. There aren't many things that can stop a dedicated grower; there's enough knowledge & experience about locations and how to adapt & work around certain key common issues to discreetly grow massive amounts of pot in almost any kind of space & situation. At least, IMHO.
SpoCannabis
Active member
Agreed....very well put!
M
micro gro
P
purpledomgoddes
ever try poly wall?In my experience, properly installed drywall does have better sound transmission stopping capabilities than plywood; but I can't really say that I've done a same-thickness comparison. I think a large part of the reason of drywall being a superior finish is the ability to seal all seams completely using joint compound or similar. I think it's easier to cover / finish drywall surfaces compared to plywood, as well.
If you can afford it and safely handle the logistics, I highly recommend subcontracting the drywall installation.
RH (mold, that is) can be an issue with drywall. There is a type of gypsum board (green board) they make for bathrooms and high-humidity installations. However, research seemed to indicate to me that they weren't worth the extra added cost for the potential benefit. For very humid / wet conditions, I'd recommend fiberglass-reinforced resin panels (FRP).
Drywall isn't terribly difficult to work with per se, it's just very tedious, dusty / dirty work. Cutting drywall is fairly simple & straight-forward; actually, easier than wood. I don't know what the professional technique is, but the best way I found to do it is to score twice on the white side, snap 90 degrees, and score lightly at the seam on the brown / paper side to separate cleanly. Scoring twice isn't necessary to get a straight cut, but makes a flatter, cleaner edge.
I've found that the quality of the framing job will dictate the difficulty level & amount of time it will take for the drywall job. Flat, well-shimmed surfaces with precise stud centering and backing at the right locations is key to a smooth & efficient drywall job. At least in my limited experience.
None of us have background in construction. Most skills were obtained through necessity for growing. For instance: after running into limitations of a couple 15/20A circuits, I had to learn how to do electrical work. I needed to run water to and from location A to location B, so I learned how to work with pipes, etc. There aren't many things that can stop a dedicated grower; there's enough knowledge & experience about locations and how to adapt & work around certain key common issues to discreetly grow massive amounts of pot in almost any kind of space & situation. At least, IMHO.
M
micro gro
No, I'd love some links to more info though.
Philosophelon
Member
Thanks for the detailed response, micro, I really appreciate it. I honestly had no idea that you could just cut and snap drywall, lol. The same thing happened the first time I used rigid foam insulation -- I cut it with a circular saw -- until I asked a friend who is a subcontractor why the hell anyone would use the shit because the sawdust is so irritating, and he laughed his ass off and told me to use a utility knife.
Very true. In hindsight, I've just been slacking on doing proper research. I taught myself to do electrical and plumbing out of necessity by reading books from the library -- I just never bothered to get books for the construction aspect. Next room I'm just gonna order drywall, check out a few books, and jump in with both feet. Life is more fun that way, no?
Thanks for the gentle kick in the ass, my friend.
Very true. In hindsight, I've just been slacking on doing proper research. I taught myself to do electrical and plumbing out of necessity by reading books from the library -- I just never bothered to get books for the construction aspect. Next room I'm just gonna order drywall, check out a few books, and jump in with both feet. Life is more fun that way, no?
Thanks for the gentle kick in the ass, my friend
.
M
micro gro
Exactly.
PonicallyMade
Member
micro - quick question
I see you've got the GH 6 gallons on their sides using spigots.
Do you ever shake - or have to shake these bad boys.. or do you just let em sit and dispense as needed?
If your letting them just sit - how fast do you go through the 6 gallons of nutes.
awesome show dude.
peace
pm
I see you've got the GH 6 gallons on their sides using spigots.
Do you ever shake - or have to shake these bad boys.. or do you just let em sit and dispense as needed?
If your letting them just sit - how fast do you go through the 6 gallons of nutes.
awesome show dude.
peace
pm
M
micro gro
Never had a need to shake 'em. I don't think the minerals fall out of suspension while stored within normal temperatures. One time I left some GH nutes out in a van in freezing winter and found large chunks of precipitated salt crystals at the bottom the next day, just like I had once read would happen in very cold conditions.
Short answer is no I don't shake 'em. At least not the Micro & Bloom. I am aware, however, of the products that will benefit from shaking. Not sure if I need to, but I like to shake Cal-Mag+ just because it looks like it needs to be shook (even though I know it's not organic). Also like to shake Floralicious+ and Roots Excelurator, but the rest are okay.
I leave them sitting sideways on a shelf like that, and dispense as necessary. Just make sure you use some Teflon tape to wrap the spigot threads.
I expect these 6 gallon jugs to last slightly less than 1 full cycle, based on previous grows of similar sizes.
Short answer is no I don't shake 'em. At least not the Micro & Bloom. I am aware, however, of the products that will benefit from shaking. Not sure if I need to, but I like to shake Cal-Mag+ just because it looks like it needs to be shook (even though I know it's not organic). Also like to shake Floralicious+ and Roots Excelurator, but the rest are okay.
I leave them sitting sideways on a shelf like that, and dispense as necessary. Just make sure you use some Teflon tape to wrap the spigot threads.
I expect these 6 gallon jugs to last slightly less than 1 full cycle, based on previous grows of similar sizes.
i.cant.read.man
New member
WORD!
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micro gro
Trim / dry room getting finished up. Ceiling fan, seats. That's the monitoring PC being set up. Will be connected to temperature sensors, motion sensors, and cameras.
Some pegboard to organize:
Had some peg board left over:
Towel rack in rez room:
In case anyone wants to see that boring plant material stuff...
Some pegboard to organize:
Had some peg board left over:
Towel rack in rez room:
In case anyone wants to see that boring plant material stuff...
Y
YosemiteSam
Bolt cutters...an essential part of any tool collection
About that boring plant material...do you top at all or just clear out some of the lower branches?
About that boring plant material...do you top at all or just clear out some of the lower branches?
C
Cozy Amnesia
I'm so envious right now
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