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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

Quazi

Member
150W Still Goin Strong

150W Still Goin Strong

Hello all you crazy 150W lovers!

Just letting you know that my 150W cabinet is still rocking strong. Here's some Afghooey:
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Closeup of some Chocolate Thai:
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Check out the link my sig for more pics.

Peace and love to all and good luck in your travels!

-Q :rasta:
 
OK, I was going to give up on the 150w I bought from econolight. I was not happy with the yield or overall flowering cycle from the runs that I did. I had fuller, denser, more trichy buds from using CFL's. I know MANY variables go into yield, but there was too big a difference in the plants when the plants were clones of the plant in the first run. I got to thinking though, the bulb I was using was the bulb that came with the unit when I bought it. I am thinking that that bulb was probably the cheapest thing they could find, and not of the best quality. So I bought a new bulb at Lowe's to see if maybe that might have been the problem. I am going to run the cab for another cycle or two with the new bulb to see if it helps, I'm sure it will.

Just one question for y'all...

I have a piece of plexi separating the bulb from the flower chamber so the bulb runs in it's own separate area. Does anyone think the plexi may have been decreasing the amount of light the flower chamber is receiving? I would like to keep the setup the same, the segregated area where the lights are has separate intakes and outflow from the flower chamber and acts as a big cooltube. I am not opposed to taking the plexi out and running the cab that way. I know the temps in the flower chamber will go up a bit, but if temps are managable...

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You can see where the bulbs and plexi are. Those are 42w CFL's on either side of the 150, I just have them to fill out the spectrum (ANOTHER question, do those 42's do anything, or are they just a waste of power and source of more heat?) Sorry about the tilted image, I am clueless when it comes to uploading and manipulating pics! :bashhead:
 

Dimebagg

Member
Which 150w setups are you guys getting from Econolight? Ive read many prices on here under $35 shipped, but the cheapest one I can find is around $55 shipped. Am I passing over it, or have prices increased that much in the past year?
 
Which 150w setups are you guys getting from Econolight? Ive read many prices on here under $35 shipped, but the cheapest one I can find is around $55 shipped. Am I passing over it, or have prices increased that much in the past year?

Yea the light I bought was the vapor-tight 150w. Econolight doesn't have it listed any more, they only have low wattage MH or incandescent (yea - works GREAT for growing... LOL!)

If you find another location to order cheap 150's let us know!
 

catman

half cat half man half baked
Veteran
SlowCalaToker - The glass does reduce light, but if it is needed to control the temperature, the light loss isn't significant. Having extra light from the 42w can't hurt, but your right, the extra heat they put off can hurt. Your footprint looks small enough to me to think the 150w should be enough solo. When you get plants packed in there you might consider placing some CFLs vertically at the bottom of the cab to get them bottom buds some light. You did a nice job on the cab construction.

Is that foam you are using to block light? Does it work 100%? I have a split 2 door cabinet as well and I tried used silicone/vaseline which worked great at first, but the seal isn't perfect anymore.
 
SlowCalaToker - The glass does reduce light, but if it is needed to control the temperature, the light loss isn't significant. Having extra light from the 42w can't hurt, but your right, the extra heat they put off can hurt. Your footprint looks small enough to me to think the 150w should be enough solo. When you get plants packed in there you might consider placing some CFLs vertically at the bottom of the cab to get them bottom buds some light. You did a nice job on the cab construction.

Is that foam you are using to block light? Does it work 100%? I have a split 2 door cabinet as well and I tried used silicone/vaseline which worked great at first, but the seal isn't perfect anymore.

Thanks catman, it is a standard cab from Lowe's that needed a little tweaking. Yes, it's foam, and it sucks. I still have not gotten the damn thing lightproof yet. I'm going to get an inner tube for an 18-wheeler tire and cut it in strips to try and get the thing lightproof. I'm gonna SOG lillipops in there once it's done. I think you are right about the CFL's. They are too far from the plants to be doing any real good, and they do get warm. Out they go!

Thanks again!
 

McSnappler

Lurk.
Veteran
SlowCalaToker: I agree about the CFLs. AF just did a small grow with baby CFLs, no HPS, and they only really have a decent effective range of 2-3". I think they could be best used in your setup as extra light for the bottom buds, as catman suggested, where you can get them in real close proximity to the plant.
 

TraneRek

Member
For light proofing I use the weather stripping w/ adhesive on one side (from HD). With the lights off you can see a very faint glow in one spot, but that's from the intense 150w.. I don't think minor light pollution will penetrate through it. You could also just double it up and it would probably block 100% of the light; I don't have a problem w/ it as is, so I didn't bother.

What are the dimensions of your cab CalaToker? You like it? How much was it?

Thanks,
-Rek :rasta:

EDIT: I think they also make the weather stripping in wider strips, so that might work instead of doubling up..
 

bongeyser

New member
the econolight 150 hps vaportight was discontinued earlier this year so nobodies overlooking anything. Do those howard ballasts come with wiring,or is that sold seperately?
 

Pipedream

Proudly Growing My Own Since 1969
Veteran
From actual first hand testing, we know that Glass blocks a good bit of light and Plexi blocks even more. Additionally, the problem is compounded when you consider that both of them, when purchased in flat sheets designed for framing or windows, are specifically designed to eliminate the ultra-violet side of the spectrum. This is done to limit light bleaching of furniture and floors, and prevent the destruction of artwork. This is why you can't get a tan thru a glass window. Keep in mind that HPS bulbs are already lacking on the blue side on the spectrum and you can see why any additional filtering will be detremental to your plants growth. A thin sheet of plexi just 1/16 of an inch can easily block 8-10% of available light, yours looks considerably thicker. Lastly, all visable light is good light and the more you have the better for the plants regardless of the spectrum. I run CFL's all the way at the top of my cabinet with my HPS and there is an obvious difference when I don't use them. If the choice is to leave them at the top or not use them at all, my vote is to keep them up there.

Light meters are as important as PH testers and TDS meters when growing. They can be had for just a buck or two at many garage sales, and purchased new for less than $10. It's an inexpensive tool every indoor grower should have.

JMHO - Regards to all - PD
 
SlowCalaToker: I agree about the CFLs. AF just did a small grow with baby CFLs, no HPS, and they only really have a decent effective range of 2-3". I think they could be best used in your setup as extra light for the bottom buds, as catman suggested, where you can get them in real close proximity to the plant.

Thanks Snap, I will use the CFL's at the bottom if I scrog in there again to get the light at the fluffys. I won't need them soggin lollipops. But we all change our style and setup till we get 'em dialed in and get a bit of experience, so I will probably be using them again.

For light proofing I use the weather stripping w/ adhesive on one side (from HD). With the lights off you can see a very faint glow in one spot, but that's from the intense 150w.. I don't think minor light pollution will penetrate through it. You could also just double it up and it would probably block 100% of the light; I don't have a problem w/ it as is, so I didn't bother.

What are the dimensions of your cab CalaToker? You like it? How much was it?

Thanks,
-Rek :rasta:

Hey Rek, the weatherstripping I use is just that stuff. I have tried everything with that stuff and I just can't get it to work. Either the doors won't close or the light pours out, no middle ground. I wrap the whole box, except for intakes and exaust, with a tarp for now. It's just a pia to get in and out of likr that - unwrap, fold, work, wrap, and I always forget to do something so put "repeat" at the end of that cycle... I hope the rubber stripping will work, it should. I don't know the exact measurements, but I'll get them tonight. I bought it at Lowe's for about $40 a year or two ago. I like the cab, and it will make a great mom/clone cab, but it's a little small (depth and hight-wise) for what I want to do in the future (aero or e/f)

Pipedream - Thanks for your input, I consider your "JMHO" to carry a lot of weight. I will put the new bulb in, remove the plexi, and check to see if temps are in control. I would love to get rid of the plexi, but I'm paranoid that my plants will end up getting burned (paranoid, I know...) I think If temps with the 150 are OK, I will move those light fixtures down to a place where they are closer to where the canopy of the sog will be and check temps again, I know the CFL's won't burn.

Just kind of thinking out loud here, so thanks to all for all you help and advice. I do appreciate it and will put a lot of it into practice! This is why I love this forum above all others: help with no judgement or bullshit.

Later.
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
SlowCalaToker, the best stripping is the least possible needed IMO. If you're interested, I've got a few easy fixes that reduce or eliminate the need for stripping. Shoot me a pm or post here if yer interested.
 

KolorBlind

Member
OK so I got my mini fridge almost setup. Dimensions are roughly 18.5" Wide by 18" Deep by 32" Tall. I had been contemplating using a pyrex cooltube, but after readong some of the more recent posts in this thread I am going to just give it a shot without any glass or cooltubes. I will mount an 80mm or 120mm fan to the reflector blowing air towards the side of the fridge that the exhaust fan pulls from since I have 2 12v adapters laying around.

My exhaust is 4", with two 4" passive intake holes. I made elbows out of rigid duct work, and sprayed the insides black to trap light. My S&P TD-100x is on the 100CFM setting and will be hooked to a DIY scrubber I made that resembles the popular CAN design, its outer core is 6" and the whole thing is 14" long.

The light is mounted stationary to the top of the fridge, so I will be using a hanging shelf instead of scrounging around books, DVD cases, etc. to stack on. The ambient temp in the room where the fridge will be should be between 74 and 78 at all times, with a central AC vent in the room.

Based on charts ive seen, the many hundreds of threads Ive read, and some experiences of a few people I know, I have concluded that an optimum distance from the top of the canopy to the bottom of the bulb should be about 4-6 inches once the plants are big enough.

My main questions are: With just a pc fan blowing on the light, and a 100CFM exhaust fan hooked to a scrubber, is it feasible to get plants that close to a 150w HPS light? Would a 120mm fan help significantly more than an 80mm fan? And one off the wall question; If I use the scrog method....how the hell do I water my plants once the screen gets full? Any people with experience on that one? I guess I could make the screen removeable, just seems liek a pain.

Well thanks for reading my little rant, Ill hjave some pics very soon of my mini fridge for you guys. It need another coat of paint or 2, some duct work and the shelf and its done! 4 of my 6 Diesel Ryders were boys, and 2 girls. Whats amazing is that they all showed sex the same exact day at only 15 days old!!! I love AF strains!!:woohoo:

Thanks Guys!!
KB
 
Your fridge sounds nice man can't wait to see pics... I was thinking fridge before I decided cab... My Dwarf girls got about 5" from my 150 and I had to tie them down, I don't have that nice of an exhaust fan so yours might do just fine but that bigger fan probably wouldn't hurt if you want them close to the light source. I have heard that a full screen with SCROG cuts down on mobility a lot, especially in a stealth box but I have no first hand experience....
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
My main questions are: With just a pc fan blowing on the light, and a 100CFM exhaust fan hooked to a scrubber, is it feasible to get plants that close to a 150w HPS light? Would a 120mm fan help significantly more than an 80mm fan? And one off the wall question; If I use the scrog method....how the hell do I water my plants once the screen gets full? Any people with experience on that one? I guess I could make the screen removeable, just seems liek a pain.

You may get closer. An 80 will probably do the job w/less noise but you wouldn't have to get the 120 as close to the bulb.

IMO, you would have too much trouble removing the screen. If you have to pull the pot out to water, don't mount the screen to the cab. Instead, mount it to the pot or better yet, mount the screen to a board the pot will sit on (underneath the screen.) This would allow you to take the whole thing out if need.

Some scrog growers trim unnecessary growth underneath the screen to provide air flow and better watering access. A watering can with a long thin spout also helps.
 

KolorBlind

Member
Your fridge sounds nice man can't wait to see pics... I was thinking fridge before I decided cab... My Dwarf girls got about 5" from my 150 and I had to tie them down, I don't have that nice of an exhaust fan so yours might do just fine but that bigger fan probably wouldn't hurt if you want them close to the light source. I have heard that a full screen with SCROG cuts down on mobility a lot, especially in a stealth box but I have no first hand experience....

Thanks man, yeah Ill get some pics posted soon. Getting the duct work in place has turned out to be the biggest challenge. Just trying to find a good way to keep the elbows air & light tight. Thanks for the input much appreciated.

You may get closer. An 80 will probably do the job w/less noise but you wouldn't have to get the 120 as close to the bulb.

IMO, you would have too much trouble removing the screen. If you have to pull the pot out to water, don't mount the screen to the cab. Instead, mount it to the pot or better yet, mount the screen to a board the pot will sit on (underneath the screen.) This would allow you to take the whole thing out if need.

Some scrog growers trim unnecessary growth underneath the screen to provide air flow and better watering access. A watering can with a long thin spout also helps.


Thanks a lot Disco! I had never thought to mount the screen to the shelf or pots. That is a perfect idea! I am having to work around all the lower leaves & stuff on my plants in the large fridge when watering, so at least I already have practice with that! I was just mainly concerned about the drainage and Id say mounting the screen to the shelf or pots will do the trick!! Thanks for the advice! Also, I found a computer store locally that sells BRAND NEW 120mm fans for $9.99! So Ill be picking one of those up maybe tomorrow!

Thanks again for the help guys! Cant wait to get my babies out of their crappy little cab and into some HPS goodness. Pics will follow soon!

KB
 

BubbaK

New member
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This is my strain ICE that is currently two weeks into veg. Its growing up so fast!
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This is a clone of my strain OCTANE! It has been getting alot of new growth lately!
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This is my last Bud I got of the OCTANE! I love it:joint:
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Finally this is OCTANE, It has just finished one week of Flowering! Cant wait till its done.



These are my pics guys, let me know what ya think.:joint:
 
whatsup fellow 150watt growers this is my first post on icmag. I'm on my first grow ww nirvana they're about a week into veg. I was wondering how to join this club?
 

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