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Tutorial Organics for Beginners

BurnOne

No damn given.
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wygram-
I'd mix the blood with water and make a tea to supplement the N as needed. You can start with 1/4 tablespoon per gallon of water and see how they respond.
1/4 strength Mexican bat guano tea would work too. Or 1/4 tablespoon 5-1-1 fish emulsion per gallon of water.
Use the recipe as directed and supplement is my personal preference.
Burn1
 
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Good day,Burn1!
I finally got most of the ingredients(blood meal,bone meal,dolomite lime) but no kelp.found it in fishing stores,half pound kelp=14$ :spank:

Potaote Tubers: 0.35/0.15/2.5 (NPK)
In the health store i can get potatoe meal,would it be the same as kelp(minus the nitrogen content of course)?
 
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BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
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Cabinet boy said:
Good day,Burn1!
I finally got most of the ingredients(blood meal,bone meal,dolomite lime) but no kelp.found it in fishing stores,half pound kelp=14$ :spank:

Potaote Tubers: 0.35/0.15/2.5 (NPK)
In the health store i can get potatoe meal,would it be the same as kelp(minus the nitrogen content of course)?
No. Kelp provides micro and macro nutes. Look for Maxicrop 0-0-1 or Neptune's Harvest 0-0-1 seaweed. You need it.
Burn1
 

retawgnob

Member
Straight and too the point, I love it... You know anything about rewiring a 120v/150v ballast out of a street light into a device i can plug in my wall?
 

solarz

Member
Burn or deficiency?

Burn or deficiency?

I have 2 plants potted in 1 gal pots, using recipe #2. The first 2 waterings after i transplanted into the 1 gal pots w/ recipe #2, i used only bubble water, LK, and molasses. The pics below are what the plants look like as of now before the 3rd watering...which i planned on using 1/2 c EWC with 2.5 gals of water, 2 tbs of LK, and 2 tbs molasses. I'm trying to decide if this is nute burn or if it is showing some kind of deficiency (which if it is, i'd be shocked since i followed the recipe exactly). Thanks for the help.

Plant 1







Plant 2






solarz
 

solarz

Member
ok, thanks. I was wondering because it was happening to all of the fan leaves at the bottom internode. But since it is normal i will keep doing what i'm doing. This next feeding i plan on feeding with a 1/2 c of EWC, 2 tbs LK, 2 tbs of molasses, 2.5 gal of h2o. Will this be cool, or should i just stick to using ONLY water, LK, and molasses?? Thanks in advance.

solarz
 
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Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
That can happen with a very rich soil, these recipies have a healthy dose of N in them.
Just stay on course with what your doing, they will use this stored N during flowering.
 

judas cohen

Active member
I'm not very good at reading plants, but looks like too much N to me.....(dark green leaves).

What's normal about the yellow brown lower leaves in veg?

Not arguing, just lookin' to learn. :rasta:
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Look in my gallery, you'll see some pretty dark green plants in there, I'm now at day 50 of flowering and they are now using those reserves and are getting lighter every day.
These pushed the envelope here, I usually finish with most of my fan leaves still healthy but very light in color.
It's important to have a well rooted and large enough clone for a rich soil mix, for smaller clones up the peat/coir.
I've also seen this with the mixes with alot of coco in them, coco makes N more available than peat based mix.
:2cents:
 

judas cohen

Active member
Suby: thanks for the reply and additinal info. Your gallery looks good. :thumbsup:

I was referring to pictures by Solarz. Dark green waxy leaves in VEG could be high N, as per my understanding. I thought lower leaves yellowed and dropped in Flower, if N discontinued.

I agree plants will probably grow out of the problem over time, but lower leaves indicate something wrong to me.

I understand and agree with your info. SolarZ's plants lookgood, but prolly don't need ferts for awhile. I could very well be wrong.... :rasta:
 
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Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
If he was mid flowering you would be right, overfed on N, but from what I gathered he's just starting veg.
I never trim the bottom leaves, they are for me an indicator of what going on with the plant, if the lower start getting lighter green and the tops stay green it's using up N.
 

solarz

Member
Thanks for the replies guys...i am only about a month into veg with the plants pictured. I'll continue with the feeding regimen i've been using, feeding EWC, LK, Molasses every 3rd watering...while feeding straight h2o, LK, and Molasses every other watering until flowering. Thanks again.

solarz
 

dirkdaddy

Member
hey burn, how long can LC's mix with dry recipe #1 sit around for? I've mixed it up a while ago and used probably half but the rest has been sitting in the tub since about 1.5-2 months ago when i first mixed it up. I didn't intend for this to happen but I had a few problems and the soil won't be needed for a week or two from now. I mix it up good every few days and don't let it dry. is going to get too "hot"? how long until the blood/bone/other stuff breaks down and is unusable? enlighten me on the storage of this stuff as I realize the intent is to mix and use it, not keep it around for too long.

also, if you could, tell me your opinion of a company called blue mountain organics (on ebay, here is there store http://stores.ebay.com/Blue-Mountain-Organics) and their two organic fertilizers they offer (veg and flower) as compared to teas you recommend. could they serve as a "pre made" tea mixture in place of some of the things you recommend? I realize this would be down the path of "experimenting" but from what I can tell their products look pretty good. here is a description of their veg formula:

"You are buying one 16 ounce bottle of "Grow It Green", one of the newest products from Blue Mountain Organics. This bottle makes 32 gallons of fertilizer with an NPK, which averages 5-2-5.

The ingredients are Artesian Spring Water, High Nitrogen Bat Guano, Worm Castings, Coral Calcium, Unsulphured Molasses, Humic Acid, Beet Root Extract, Comfrey Hay Extract, Alfalfa Meal Extract, Endo and Ecto Bacteria..

These ingredients are processed by first oxygenating them for a week in a special tea brewer, then the mix is pasturized, cooled, strained and filtered to remove sediments. The endo and ecto bacteria strains are added later. Ensuring only positive microorganisms are present.

This concentrated tea, requires mixing prior to use. One half ounce to one gallon of chlorine free water. Once mixed, Grow It Green performs best when used within two weeks. It provides both a highly soluble feeding solution and disease protection from the endo and ecto bacteria."
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
dirkdaddy-
I've kept LC's Mix and Recipe #1 mixed and wet for over a month before. I didn't notice anything different. The bone will become more available I figure but so what. The blood with the nitrogen is all I would worry about. But I don't think it would be a problem. Blood is a fast release nute anyway.

As far as that nute goes... You should be fine using it. The thing about organic growing is as long as you supply the plant with what it needs, that is all it needs. Spending more money on nutes isn't necessary IMO. A plant will grow just as well in blood/bone/kelp and in $$$ processed organic goo. So save some money and pick the recipe that is convenient and cheap. Spend your money on genetics.
Burn1
 
HELLO BURN 1, THANKS FOR YOUR TIME BROTHER... I HAVE BEEN USING THIS DOLOMITIC LIME THAT I WAS GIVEN A WHILE BACK, BUT IT'S PELLTIZED... :bashhead: ,,,, IS THIS LIME NOT EVEN AT ALL USEFUL, OR SHOULD THERE BE ANYTHING I CAN DO TO USE, IF SO, HOW MUCH SOULD I USE PER 5 GALLON GROW BAG, USING "OCEAN FOREST" WITH 25-30% PERLITE.....

HOW SHOULD I WORK THIS, ALSO ANY INFO ON USING R/O WATER IN AN AREA WITH A PPM OF ???????? 450 IN THE TAP WATER...????????????????

IS 450 PPM'S NOT THAT BAD? OR SHOULD I JUST DO HALF TAP / AND HALF R/O WATER??/

THNX AGAIN....
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
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You need powdered dolomite lime.
If your tap water is from a well, use it. If it's from a municipal water supply that treats it with chlorine, let it sit overnight in an open five gallon bucket and the chlorine will evaporate. If you have a municipal water supply that treats it with chloramine, use R/O water.
Burn1
 

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