Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?
- Thread starter HempKat
- Start date
A
alegoblin
Hempkat.You are doing a great service for the peeps man.Thank you.One quick question if I may.I have been running ambient temps of around 78-82 to harvest.I am fortunate to have an a c unit in flower room.Would I benefit from dropping temps to low or mid 70s in terms of trich formulation for the last 3-4 weeks or should I stay with constant temps from 12-12 to chop.Peace.Ale.
alegoblin said:
No problem, when I first got started and didn't know what to do people helpped me so I'm just paying it forward. :smile:
As for your question if that's your lights on temp that's pretty much perfect. I wouldn't lower your lights on temps at all, low temps can slow growth. What are your lights out temps though? That you may want to change.
There are some growers that go by the functions resin performs for the plant of which there are several. First of all trichomes possess excellent UV absorbtion properties to help protect the plant from the intense sunlight it gets in it's native regions. So some believe you can add UV light (not black light) to a grow in addition to the other light(s) and this will boost trichome production by increasing the need for protection. I don't reccommend this because UV exposure can be harmful to humans. Another thing it does is to act alot like a thick Kashmir sweater for the plant helpping to insulate it from the chilly nights that are common in the late flowering season. Also because of the cool temp humidity drops real low at night in the late flowering season and the resin helps to seal moisture in from that low humidity. From that growers have devised a suggested routine to follow in flower. It consists of trying to have your temps drop at least 20 degrees from lights on to lights out, so if your lights on temp is 80 then you would want your lights out temp to be 60. Also you want your humidity to be about 50% RH lights on and 20 to 30% RH lights out. This simulates the conditions that occur in nature during flower and is believed to stimulate trichome production. I have tried it myself and continue to do it whenever I can because the buds do look frostier, however I have never noticed buds grown this way seeming any more potent then the same bud not grown that way.
Last edited:
A
alegoblin
Lights off temps will be around 70-75 as the ac is on a timer and shuts down at the same time my lights go out.I use cool tubes so the intake and outtake are still running during lights out to avoid any stagnation hence mold.I would at some point like to start using Co2.Could I introduce Co2 during lights out with no air in/out with the exception of an air mover fan and not risk mold/bud rot? Ale.
alegoblin said:
I'm not really sure, personally I think adding co2 is more trouble/cost then it's worth. There are some simple, cheap, DIY ways of adding co2 but from what I understand that's more of something to make the grower feel like they're doing all they can then it is something that helps the plants. Having talked with a number of experienced growers about it I've come to understand that unless you go the professional route with tanks, a regulator and a properly sealed room, you're wasting time. They also gave me the impression that unless your situation calls for it (you grow in an area where you can't reasonably get the temps lower then the upper 80's to lower 90's) then you're wasting your money.
To put that another way, the real benefit in my view, to adding co2, is when you can't get temps under control. CO2 has the benefit of allowing the plants to continue to do well at higher temps. Beyond that though I feel just getting the co2 rates to what's normal in the atmosphere, by having good air exchange is plenty fine for producing a nice healthy harvest.
As for mold and bud rot air circulation plays an important role in helping to prevent that but so does humidity. So in theory if your humidity levels are low during lights out then cutting ventilation to add co2 shouldn't cause mold or bud rot. Also to help prevent that and to keep mixing the co2 in the air (co2 is heavy and likes to fall to the lowest level it can) you can keep a fan going in there to circulate the air but not ventilate it.
Last edited:
A
alegoblin
Righto.I think you are probably right about Co2 being more trouble than its worth.I am having good enough results now,I think I will leave things as is.Thanks for your time HK.Peace.Ale.
I've been growing skunk seeds indoor and they are estimated to be ready for smoking by the end of October. My question is, when is the earliest you can smoke the plant? I'm bored and want to try to smoke it now. Must the plant go through the "flowering" stage first, or can you get at least a mild buzz from premature smoking? Please explain the maturing process so I understand the ins and outs of this inquiry. Thank you!
wygram said:
Well in a sense what you're asking is a matter of debate. Technically virtually every part of the plant has resin in it to one degree or another and within the resin are the elements of marijuana that get you high. Some people will swear that they've taken leaves from a vegging plant, dried them, smoked them, a got a mild buzz. Still other's will insist that any such high is psychological because the person doing it is so desperate (or why else smoke leaves and such?) that they convince themselves they're getting high. Either way it's usually a very mild high followed often times by a headache.
Now, smoking part of your plant way before harvest just because you're bored is pretty foolish. Reason being that if allowed to get to a proper harvest what you'll get is so much better as to be of no comparrisson. Also if it's premature bud you're smoking that bud would have gotten way bigger had it been allowed to reach harvest as bud tends to put on most of it's mass in the last 3 weeks before harvest.
Basically you're wasting your time and the plant if you smoke part of it more then 2 weeks before it's ready for harvest. How far into the grow that will be, will depend on whether it's sativa or indica or in the case of hybrids whether it's sativa dominent or indica dominent.
R03
Active member
I have a question(s) that I cannot seem to find the answer to.
1.I have a male outside, I want some of his pollen though I am unclear what is the best method to get it? since most of the sacks are closed still, how many weeks roughly to mature? (enough to take pollen).
2. Can a vegging mother plant be affected by pollen?
1.I have a male outside, I want some of his pollen though I am unclear what is the best method to get it? since most of the sacks are closed still, how many weeks roughly to mature? (enough to take pollen).
2. Can a vegging mother plant be affected by pollen?
Sleepiesthead
Member
Yo Hempcat!
Was wondering if you had any idea when a good time would be outdoors to stop using the micro in the gh formula when following H3ad's or Rez's ratios (6,9 micro, bloom). If it was indoor it would be a little easier to follow their guidelines but outdoors takes so much longer and I don't even know how long my plants are supposed to flower for.
I think H3ad mentioned that you can go by the hairs turning read, 50% and stop the micro.
have any advice on the subject? If you think you could tell by some pictures then let me know and I'll take a couple new ones.
Thank you!
Was wondering if you had any idea when a good time would be outdoors to stop using the micro in the gh formula when following H3ad's or Rez's ratios (6,9 micro, bloom). If it was indoor it would be a little easier to follow their guidelines but outdoors takes so much longer and I don't even know how long my plants are supposed to flower for.
I think H3ad mentioned that you can go by the hairs turning read, 50% and stop the micro.
have any advice on the subject? If you think you could tell by some pictures then let me know and I'll take a couple new ones.
Thank you!
R03 said:
1) Well if it has definate sacks that are dangling but they haven't opened, you got days not weeks, maybe hours even instead of days. If they're still just clustering up around the bud sites then you might have a week or two. At this point in the season though they should be dropping or ready to drop anytime now. As for collection, I would say your best bet is probably to get a good size clear plastic bag and enclose branches (and the pollen sacks they hold) in the bags and shake the pollen off in there. You can either leave the branch on or cut it off to do this. The reason for the bag is to contain the pollen of course which will be a very fine yellow powder. Since this is outdoors once that pollen falls if there's a breeze then any females in the area are at risk. Once you got the pollen you can keep or kill the male. I'd personally kill it since it's not really good for anything but pollen to make seeds with.
2) If it has pistils exposed it can be affected. Just like an under aged girl can become pregnant. It's a matter of having all the right parts to get the job done. Plus if the plant is outside, it's likely not in veg. anymore. It may not be showing much in the way of flowers yet but usually by sometime in August plants are flowering.
Sleepiesthead said:
I'm not familiar with the GH stuff I would say the best bet is to follow whatever guidelines you've been following. People that post their formulas and methods for using GH products usually do so because they're very familiar with the product and have used that method successfully.
When I did outdoor it was more based on everything the plant needed being composted into the soil before the plant was ever planted. I did do some grows here and there with ferts like miracle grow but mostly it was compost with organics added, so there was no cut off point. Now the thing about the hairs, that's probably a decent guideline as 50% red hairs would be close to harvest and so no need to keep throwing lots of ferts at it.
R03
Active member
HempKat said:
I've collected a little amount of pollen just grabbing some ends and shaking them into a film canister, got some..but not much/enough. The bags are a good idea, I will tie a bunch of them and try it out.
The mother is indoors, 191 days since germinated, and shown itself to be a fem, as well clones taken awhile ago showed female.
Thanks for your help,
S
suckerrepellent
whats up old farts
i used the search bar but could not find a suitable answer. my situation, i have not got the money to get my hands on a sniffer to regulate my co2 generator. my question is, does anyone know of any form of co2 equation that would involve like the size of the room, the size of the canopy and the output of a gen 100 two burner generator? basically, is there any way to get a good approximation of how many times and for how long i should be running my burner to maintain optimum co2 short of buying a sniffer (which i plan to get after this harvest)?
kinda of a ridiculous question, i know, but any help would be appreciated.
i used the search bar but could not find a suitable answer. my situation, i have not got the money to get my hands on a sniffer to regulate my co2 generator. my question is, does anyone know of any form of co2 equation that would involve like the size of the room, the size of the canopy and the output of a gen 100 two burner generator? basically, is there any way to get a good approximation of how many times and for how long i should be running my burner to maintain optimum co2 short of buying a sniffer (which i plan to get after this harvest)?
kinda of a ridiculous question, i know, but any help would be appreciated.
R03 said:I've collected a little amount of pollen just grabbing some ends and shaking them into a film canister, got some..but not much/enough. The bags are a good idea, I will tie a bunch of them and try it out.
The mother is indoors, 191 days since germinated, and shown itself to be a fem, as well clones taken awhile ago showed female.
Thanks for your help,
Keep in mind, it only takes a little bit of pollen to get the job done. It's not like the buds need to be coated with pollen dust. Not to say you shouldn't get more if you want more, I'm just point out it doesn't take a whole lot.
suckerrepellent said:whats up old farts
i used the search bar but could not find a suitable answer. my situation, i have not got the money to get my hands on a sniffer to regulate my co2 generator. my question is, does anyone know of any form of co2 equation that would involve like the size of the room, the size of the canopy and the output of a gen 100 two burner generator? basically, is there any way to get a good approximation of how many times and for how long i should be running my burner to maintain optimum co2 short of buying a sniffer (which i plan to get after this harvest)?
kinda of a ridiculous question, i know, but any help would be appreciated.
Sorry, personally I think adding co2 is a waste unless there's something unusual about your set up that requires it. If your ventilation is right I feel the co2 levels are good enough and adding co2 only gives you a very mild boost in growth compared to normal co2 levels IMHO. So I'm totally ignorant about figuring out how to regulate it. I'm sure there has to be someone some where who knows of an equation that could get you in the ballpark. Alas I don't know who or where. I know it's often hard to find things with the search features on sites like these because so many unrelated threads and posts might use the same words you'd put into it as a search term.
Sorry I couldn't be of any real help.
Nice thread, and good read... Subscription aquired.
Whats the deal with fertilizing and watering in conjunction with the rain?
I have a few hardening off right now and they are still small enough to water with (1 tbsp) molasses and (1 drop) superthrive per gallon, but its rained on and off for a few days and the sun hasn't really dried anything up. Drainage is good but is this large rain fall acting similar to the concept of flushing your plants?
Will i need to strategicly fertilize as they get bigger?
Thanks for the help. Always appreciate the time.
Peace.
Whats the deal with fertilizing and watering in conjunction with the rain?
I have a few hardening off right now and they are still small enough to water with (1 tbsp) molasses and (1 drop) superthrive per gallon, but its rained on and off for a few days and the sun hasn't really dried anything up. Drainage is good but is this large rain fall acting similar to the concept of flushing your plants?
Will i need to strategicly fertilize as they get bigger?
Thanks for the help. Always appreciate the time.
Peace.
Last edited:
S
suckerrepellent
no worries hemp kat, thanks for the consideration anyway! i am running a system that does not have a fresh air IN duct, thus i need to generate co2 myself to maintain normal growth rates. i suppose if i could just find out the co2 absorption rate for a small given area with a set amount of foliage i could simply extrapolate. i will broaden my research, and if i find anything i think is useful ill report back.
thanks again, sr
thanks again, sr
HempKat said:
retawgnob said:
Hard to say since I don't know what's in the soil they're in. In good soil you don't need to do so much in the way of fertalizing as it is naturally in the soil. Now if the soil is poor or your plants are in pots even though they're outdoors then you could have an issue as the excess rain could indeed wash or flush your nutes away. If they're in the ground and you're getting good rain hold off on the waterings you do and don't feed extra unless they're showing signs of needing it. Molasses more then anything feeds the beneficial microbes but rain water is loaded with them so you don't need the molasses when you got good rainfall, at least that's my opinion.
