Powdery Mildew Rx for flowering plants?

[Clackamas Coot]

Oh and whoever reccommended spaying mollasses...i would advise against it, I heard the plant can't absorb it through the leaves and it can possibly attract ants into the growroom. The ants themselves aren't bad, but they bring other pests with them.

Laughable.

Molasses has been proven to be an effective agent against 'fire ants' - do a 'Google.com' search and find out for yourself.

The rest of what CelebrityKush posted is delusional - at best. Plants cannot use nutrients via foliar spraying? Seriously? More 'Stoner Joe' growing advice - at best. Do some more study and more importantly do some more growing and post your results.

Thanks for sharing regardless.

CC

 

[CelebrityKush]

Hey Coot....thank you for responding to my post like an adult.
There was nothing delusional about it. you should chill out a little bit.

Like I said..."I heard" this and it was from what I think is a realiable source.

The ANTS I was referring to was the small garden or house ants...NOT the red fire ants. Red fire ants are protien eaters and so it make sense that they would not like mollasses. But the ant i'm talking about are the ones that invade peoples kitchens if food is left on the counter. put a drop of soda on the ground and watch em swarm all over it. In the area i am at...these are the ants that are most likely to invade a growroom in search of a rich sugary substance. and "I heard" that they can bring in other pest with them.

Also, I said nothing of plants not being able to absorb "nutrients" through foliar spraying. I was referring to the sugars in the mollasses. But after re-reading your previous post i see you use it for the sulfer in there. well, yes the plant can absorb sulfer....sorry. I have heard of people trying to spray their plants with mollasses for the sugars and that's what I thought you were talking about... As far as I know plants can not absorb a simple sugar through foliar spraying. If I am wrong please reply and let me know.

 

[HeresTheDank]

alright cool, i guess i'll throw spray the buds too, i bought some baking soda tonight, i'll put it on tomorrow morning when lights go on. Any ideas how much of a ratio for baking soda for water? i think the bible says it i'll check. But do u think if i do this for 4 days, spray a day then use water then spray then use water it will be cool to finish in 10 days after that? i got 2 wweeks of flowering left AT MOST

 

[sarek]

Pro-Tekt Silicon might be able to help against PM

Pro-Tekt Silicon might be able to help against PM

Fighting this Borg is tough. I read some articles by greehouse people about silicon being used to toughen up plants. Dyna Gro makes it and lots of people use it, i think more for heat tolerance but it might be good for PM. I will not eradicate it, it might control or mitigate it. It might makes leaf cells thinker. Below is an article from a recent legit journal. Any thoughts? Anybody use this? I recommend buying some and putting into resevoir if you have PM and see if it makes it a bit better.


http://www.springerlink.com/content/j6r7153t37233522/


Abstract Foliar and root applications of different silicon (Si)-based formulations were evaluated for their effects in reducing powdery mildew and promoting growth of wheat plants. X-ray microanalyses of treated plants revealed that root applications resulted in consistent deposition of Si in the leaves. In terms of powdery mildew control, root applications at 1.7 mM Si gave consistently the best results, reducing disease severity by as much as 80%, regardless of the product used. Although less effective than root applications, foliar treatments with both Si and nutrient salt solutions led to a significant reduction of powdery mildew on wheat plants. This suggests a direct effect of the products on powdery mildew rather than one mediated by the plant as in the case of root amendments. In our experiments, Si amendment, either through the roots or the leaves, did not increase plant growth. These results lead to the conclusion that Si is primarily, if not exclusively, absorbed by the root system and that such absorption by the roots is necessary for an optimal prophylactic effect.

 

[~fvk~]

HeresTheDank

Here is an article from the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. The article discusses both potassium bicarbonate as well as sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).

They both work and work well. The potassium bicarbonate agent is about 20% more effective and is also 500% - 2000% more expensive depending on which 'brand' of potassium bicarbonate that you buy. There isn't a dime's worth of difference between any of them.

HTH

CC

I knew I saw the ingredient potassium bicarbonate in my nute stash somewhere so I went digging and found the main ingredient of my Earth Juice Natural Up is potassium bicarbonate. I'm not sure of the other ingredients or if there are any others at all. I'm taking it this would be effective in fighting powdery mildew then? It's not that expensive at all... Maybe two to three times the price of baking soda and if it's that 20% more effective it's probably worth it. I never use this stuff anyways so if I ever run into the PM I guess I'll have to bust this out.

 

[rr14]

I sparyed green cure on my stuff last week and immediately, it turned all th white hairs brown like, the plant was older than it really was. Anyone have any experiences with this?

I go off the color of the trich's so I know when to pull them, but if I didn't, I'd be in trouble and probably would pluck them too early.

 

[bighogg]

Powdery mildew experiment number 15

Powdery mildew experiment number 15

First i took off a few clones from each mother and rooted them. Once clones were rooted i killed the mother and thoroughly cleaned the room. For cleaning the room i used a 10% bleach solution, made by mixing 1 part pure Clorex bleach with 9 parts water. In addition to spraying walls floors ceiling & equipment i poured the mixture in a fogging machine and fogged the room (with plants in it).

After the plants recuperated (slight damage), they went into larger rockwool cubes (4x4) and rooted further.

Although i had no visual evidence, i still was not satisfied that the PM was completely eradicated. I decided to dip the entire plant into a 10% bleach solution.

I again cleaned the room, spraying down walls floors ceiling and equipment...(i wore a mask and my eyes were f'ked up for 36 hours after) I also added a HEPA filter and removed the old carbon. Still waiting for the new carbon...

For the experiment:

A five gallon bucket was filled with a 10% bleach solution. This would be used for dipping the plants.

Each plant was dipped and held under a 10 % bleach solution for 3-4 seconds and gently swirled.


Next the plant pulled out and was held upside down. The undersides of the leaves were sprayed off thoroughly with tap water (it's good water). After the undersides were sprayed, the plant was turned right side up to wash the tops of the leaves.

This dipping process was REPEATED THREE TIMES. On the final rinse the tops were given added attention with the plain water.

The lamp was kept off until leaves were dry. The lamp lumens were also cut by two thirds for 48 hours, then put to half strength for another 48.

Currently lamp lumen's are two thirds normal strength. Plants are still recovering from such a carpet bombing. About one third of the plants probably won't make it, another third are slow but should make it. The final third looks fine so far as they survived.

Anybody ever do a 10% bleach dip?

 

[420247]

This book can help alot, it did for me...

The Organic Gardener's Handbook Of Natural Insect And Disease Control

Rodale Press

 

[bighogg]

Why? does it have a section on bleach?

 

[420247]

Yes!!! And alot more... It really is a good book...

 

[kalikush]

My humidity ranges from 25% lights on to 45% lights off so maybe thats a little high.

I added a fan last night that provides way more airflow to most of the plants and I plan to add a couple smaller fans today as well. Now, every branch is moving with my main exhaust turned off.

 

[bighogg]

dude. unfortunately, the right answer is.....drum roll...it depends. it depends on what strain of PM u got. the one i've had for quite some time was controllable at first but then became harder and harder to combat. getting the humidity down to as low as possible is a must, so good job on the dehumidifier and fans! All u can do is see if that works...if you see it spreading daily. get a spray, raise the pH on the leaves with sulfur, or H2O@, or the Green Cure.

personally i'm at war with PM. i will not stop until it is completely cured. dipping my plants in bleach was prolly the most radical thing i've done.

 

[kalikush]

I think I saw that you could try spraying the plants with high pH water(~9), I forget when they said to spray, lights off with fans blowing all over? But Im guessing I can use my General Hydroponics pH up then spray with the new water? Maybe it was just higher humidity here over the last weeks but the last couple days since I added the fan, the max hasnt been over 40%, today only got up to 34%.

I really want to "clean" the leaves though so maybe a rinse with the high pH'd water will do. I'll try and setup the humidifier this weekend and I guess I'll need it for drying as well since Im in a somewhat confined space.

I had a hard time finding any pix of PM, heres a couple I took on my Lavenders.. see the "dust"?

 

[bighogg]

ugh!! that damn PM!! and so early into budding. just seeing pictures of it makes me shiver and quake in fear.

your going to have to spray that with something. high pH water could work, but i would use that option for a later time in the flowering cycle. a friend of mine has had excellent success with a foliar spray with fish oil in it. it coats the leaves and makes them shiny. this spray can only be used in early flowering cause it tastes like crap. Safers has a good sulfur spray, that kills PM.

there are fewer options as you get later into flowering, cause most stuff leaves a residue, which is why your high pH water idea is good for later flowering.

 

[CelebrityKush]

Kalikush and Bighogg, and everyone else. DutchMasters Zone + Penetrator is the Ultimate cure. If you read the ENTIRE thread, you will see what I mean. I have used this and I completley endorse it. Best spray I have ever used. Does not smell bad at all.

You will need to use 10ml per gallon of the Zone, and about 3tsp. per gallon of the Penetrator.

I can not say it enough.......

Dutchmasters Zone + Penetrator
Dutchmasters Zone + Penetrator
Dutchmasters Zone + Penetrator
Dutchmasters Zone + Penetrator
Dutchmasters Zone + Penetrator
Dutchmasters Zone + Penetrator
Dutchmasters Zone + Penetrator

 

[CelebrityKush]

oh yeah....you can use the Dutchmaster's Zone and Penetrator as a spray or a dip. Dipping is better, but sometimes not always feasible. and you can get this stuff at most Hydroponic shops

 

[kalikush]

I've got a question for all of you who've had problems with PM.. Was your humidity in the low 30% all of the time and was the airflow constantly moving leaves in the dead center of the canopy?

 

[CelebrityKush]

I've heard of people with relative humity at 17% and they still had PM. my guess is that you are going to have to take additional measures. and the earlier you can deal with it....the better.

 

[CelebrityKush]

Lavender(Im probably gonna ditch after this grow unless its super chronic)

i've grown the lavender, and was not impressed with it. only grew it once and that was enough for me.

 

[coco kid]

I read some where that using a beneficial bacteria like GH subculture will help get rid of powdery mildew what do you think??