150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......
- Thread starter Pipedream
- Start date
BonsaiBud: Mirrors are not good reflectors. They diffuse more light than they reflect. What is actinics?
BRNEYDBVR: NIce stash box man. What's in the jar that looks like it has a cork on it? You tryin' a water cure?
DiscoDuck: That looks more like a deficiency to me, but it's hard to tell w/the pix under the HPS. Try some epsom salts the next time you water.
BRNEYDBVR: NIce stash box man. What's in the jar that looks like it has a cork on it? You tryin' a water cure?
DiscoDuck: That looks more like a deficiency to me, but it's hard to tell w/the pix under the HPS. Try some epsom salts the next time you water.
what up 150 club?
some great looking bud abita!
browneyedebeaver - how do you like the stash box? I have had my eye on one for a while. i am between that and the large wicca one at grarden state mall distributers... I wish gypsy didn't charge so much for shipping. how is the quality on the lock?
some great looking bud abita!
browneyedebeaver - how do you like the stash box? I have had my eye on one for a while. i am between that and the large wicca one at grarden state mall distributers... I wish gypsy didn't charge so much for shipping. how is the quality on the lock?
Disco - 45 huh? Well have no fear, I've got 10 years on ya' and I'm still learning.
Here's a picture of one of my buds that had a true Spider-Mite problem. Take a look at the leaves standing up in the background and those off to the sides. Once you've seen their tell-tale signs, they are very easy to spot. The start off as multiple tiny round white specs. Generally, you see them first on the center portion of the leaf, not near the veins or margins.
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BRNEYDBVR
Active member
Vintner -
Thanks.... the jar with the cork is just a stash jar, the herb that's on the screen in the pic goes in that jar.
Suga -
I love that stash box... Can't believe that I went so long without one. For the longest time, these boxes were $150...plus $50 s/h. I was like you and just couldn't get myself to spend that much... Well, one weekend they went on special for $99 and I decided to buy one. The next week the price had been reduced to $99 and stayed that way until recently, now their $79 on special but still $50 to ship. DG said that the $50 s/h is because they have to ship it in two packages.... Mine was shipped in one box, and I still paid the 50 s/h. Whatever... Other than my growing stuff, this is the best herb related item that I've ever bought. Wouldn't know what to do without it. It's awesome.
After a while, the kif really starts to build up and provides some killer smokin' material!
The lock is solid... It has a skeleton key. I'm not in a position that I have to ever lock mine. But it will keep the honest people...honest. If someone was a locksmith... Im sure that they could pick it, just like any other lock.
The boxes are VERY high quality, and work wonderfully.
Thanks.... the jar with the cork is just a stash jar, the herb that's on the screen in the pic goes in that jar.
Suga -
I love that stash box... Can't believe that I went so long without one. For the longest time, these boxes were $150...plus $50 s/h. I was like you and just couldn't get myself to spend that much... Well, one weekend they went on special for $99 and I decided to buy one. The next week the price had been reduced to $99 and stayed that way until recently, now their $79 on special but still $50 to ship. DG said that the $50 s/h is because they have to ship it in two packages.... Mine was shipped in one box, and I still paid the 50 s/h. Whatever... Other than my growing stuff, this is the best herb related item that I've ever bought. Wouldn't know what to do without it. It's awesome.
After a while, the kif really starts to build up and provides some killer smokin' material!
The lock is solid... It has a skeleton key. I'm not in a position that I have to ever lock mine. But it will keep the honest people...honest. If someone was a locksmith... Im sure that they could pick it, just like any other lock.
The boxes are VERY high quality, and work wonderfully.
brneydbvr,
thanks for the info - the lock is in my case about keeping little hands out - not worried too much about theives just my daughter getting into dads stuff would not go over well with mom
thanks for the info - the lock is in my case about keeping little hands out - not worried too much about theives just my daughter getting into dads stuff would not go over well with mom
BonsaiBud
Member
actinics
actinics
"what are actinics?" - vintner
They produce blue light. Only blue light. Supposedly clones and seedlings love them.
There is a theory that it is lack of blue light from HPS that causes stretch. I also read that photo-tracking? Responds primarily to blue light and much less so to the other colors of the spectrum. If this is true, and I leave the actinics where they are, then I should get shoots growing downward.
Do it for science your say?
actinics
"what are actinics?" - vintner
They produce blue light. Only blue light. Supposedly clones and seedlings love them.
There is a theory that it is lack of blue light from HPS that causes stretch. I also read that photo-tracking? Responds primarily to blue light and much less so to the other colors of the spectrum. If this is true, and I leave the actinics where they are, then I should get shoots growing downward.
Do it for science your say?
G
Guest
Greetings 150 club!
I've been watching things here, and hope I can tag along.
I have been putting together my first cab, and using two cheapo 150w capacitorless lights from Econo.
I think folks may be a bit disappointed when they purchase these $20 lights, only to find out they have a terrible power factor. And yes, they do create more heat than a light with a capacitor, and they will also draw a huge load, BUT unless you are growing in a commercial or industrial site, you will not be charged by the Elec co for more power. It doesn't work like that, and I hate to try to explain it, but we pay the same price at the meter be it with or without a capacitor.
Having said that, heat is one of the biggest enemies we have, and it not only hurts the grow, but it hurts the igniter as well. SO it is wise to fit the proper capacitor to our cheapo light.
A 150 HPS require the following: 14MFD (or uF) rated at 280-330 volts AC.
You will probably only find a cap. in the "dry" barrel form. The oil fills are usually not made in this size anymore. It will have either two leads on it, or will have two 1/4" fork type quick connectors. (either are fine to use)
If you can find one of these animals, the price ranges will shock you. I found one the other day that lists for $82. They (Advance Electronics) are very proud of that cap.
Here are a couple links to the proper capacitor for very little coin: (<$10 but about $11 ship)
http://www.hidquickfix.com/cafor150wa.html
http://www.atlaslightingsupply.com/cap_ignitor.html
I also noticed some confusion on just how to wire these rascals up...
They need to be in parallel. Meaning they need to have one lead on the black wire from your power source and the other wire to the white lead of your power source. This should probably be the first thing that your incoming power lines see before going to the transformer and igniter.
Hope this was of some help.
Anywho, again I offer greetings. Hope to be around for a good while.
hh
I've been watching things here, and hope I can tag along.
I have been putting together my first cab, and using two cheapo 150w capacitorless lights from Econo.
I think folks may be a bit disappointed when they purchase these $20 lights, only to find out they have a terrible power factor. And yes, they do create more heat than a light with a capacitor, and they will also draw a huge load, BUT unless you are growing in a commercial or industrial site, you will not be charged by the Elec co for more power. It doesn't work like that, and I hate to try to explain it, but we pay the same price at the meter be it with or without a capacitor.
Having said that, heat is one of the biggest enemies we have, and it not only hurts the grow, but it hurts the igniter as well. SO it is wise to fit the proper capacitor to our cheapo light.
A 150 HPS require the following: 14MFD (or uF) rated at 280-330 volts AC.
You will probably only find a cap. in the "dry" barrel form. The oil fills are usually not made in this size anymore. It will have either two leads on it, or will have two 1/4" fork type quick connectors. (either are fine to use)
If you can find one of these animals, the price ranges will shock you. I found one the other day that lists for $82. They (Advance Electronics) are very proud of that cap.
Here are a couple links to the proper capacitor for very little coin: (<$10 but about $11 ship)
http://www.hidquickfix.com/cafor150wa.html
http://www.atlaslightingsupply.com/cap_ignitor.html
I also noticed some confusion on just how to wire these rascals up...
They need to be in parallel. Meaning they need to have one lead on the black wire from your power source and the other wire to the white lead of your power source. This should probably be the first thing that your incoming power lines see before going to the transformer and igniter.
Hope this was of some help.
Anywho, again I offer greetings. Hope to be around for a good while.
hh
G
Guest
Those lights were designed for use in a seal-tight environment outdoors. Many times up high on a pole. So, maintenance of these types of lights should be very seldom. The only thing that can really cause these HPSs to fail is the capacitor. Although the igniter can deteriorate over time, it is far less of a failure part than the capacitor is. The capacitor is the weakest link in the ballast. It's main function is to allow the light to utilize the energy efficiently, but the thing will work without the cap, just not as efficiently. So, they omit the cap. to make it more maint. friendly.
(LOL...this is just my opinion btw, I am no expert)
I like them because the parts that are available, once you gut them out, are great for other things. I used the hold-downs to make my lighting fixture/reflector brackets.
Actually, the ballast housing makes a great holder of the parts as is.
(I'll try to give a good show later of how I fashioned all of my cab stuff, especially my DIY items. I love DIY)
(LOL...this is just my opinion btw, I am no expert)
I like them because the parts that are available, once you gut them out, are great for other things. I used the hold-downs to make my lighting fixture/reflector brackets.
Actually, the ballast housing makes a great holder of the parts as is.
(I'll try to give a good show later of how I fashioned all of my cab stuff, especially my DIY items. I love DIY)
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Greeseyder
Member
Ola everyone......anybody using a Ceramic Metal Halide? I am pretty much convinced of their superior lighting qualities! Search for the CMH post in growroom supplies......VERY interesting!!
G
G
Greeseyder
Member
Well thats what I thought at first until I read this: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=72215&page=1&pp=15
kinda long but really interesting! Looks very impressive for improved growth....I posted a question about the 150wers so search for it......next grow for sure....
G
kinda long but really interesting! Looks very impressive for improved growth....I posted a question about the 150wers so search for it......next grow for sure....
G
Greeseyder
Member
Here is the main place to get them: http://advancedtechlighting.com/mhced17.htm
here is Azeotrope's quote on ballasts: "You use a HPS ballast that is the correct wattage. Standard core and coil ballast. ANSI S51 for 400w for example or any reguar HPS ballast that you would buy to run a horti."
he really knows his shit on these bulbs/ballasts......
G
here is Azeotrope's quote on ballasts: "You use a HPS ballast that is the correct wattage. Standard core and coil ballast. ANSI S51 for 400w for example or any reguar HPS ballast that you would buy to run a horti."
he really knows his shit on these bulbs/ballasts......
G
