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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

greenhead

Active member
Veteran
Greeseyder said:
Here is the main place to get them: http://advancedtechlighting.com/mhced17.htm


here is Azeotrope's quote on ballasts: "You use a HPS ballast that is the correct wattage. Standard core and coil ballast. ANSI S51 for 400w for example or any reguar HPS ballast that you would buy to run a horti."

he really knows his shit on these bulbs/ballasts......

G

Thanks, that's interesting, and also good news, because they must have just recently released the 150 watt versions of the bulb, because they were not yet available when I asked in that CMH thread about 1 month ago.

I assume that the unprotected versions are the way to go because I don't wish to block UV, that's one of the reasons why I'd pick up one of those bulbs. And the unprotected bulbs are also cheaper, so that's good. The CMH bulbs have far less lumens than HPS bulbs of equivalent wattage, but I suppose that there are other benefits to the bulbs. I might just pick up one of those bulbs for my next grow, and see what the deal is.

I just posted a question in the CMH thread to be 100% certain that the 150 watt bulbs will work in a standard 150 ballast. For the longest time, these CMH bulbs were only 250 watts and up.

:joint: :wave:
 
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greenhead

Active member
Veteran
I received my answer, and those 150 bulbs are a no go. They are pulse start.

150 HPS users needn't hold their breath, because who knows when they'll come out, if ever.

:joint: :wave:
 

Greeseyder

Member
Well fuck me runnin'! I read almost all 60 fawking pages of that confusing thread & thought for sure they where good to go...... even ask some questions.......Sorry for misinforming......

G
 

greenhead

Active member
Veteran
Greeseyder said:
Well fuck me runnin'! I read almost all 60 fawking pages of that confusing thread & thought for sure they where good to go...... even ask some questions.......Sorry for misinforming......

G

No problem man. I had checked out the CMH thread a long time ago, and I wanted to test out one of those bulbs myself, and I was a little disappointed when I asked about the 150 bulbs in that thread, and found out that they didn't yet exist for 150 HPS ballasts. I got a bit excited when I saw your post in this thread, and thought that maybe they had just gotten around to releasing them now, but it's all good !

The bulbs seem interesting, but I'm not going to buy a completely different type of ballast to use them. I'll just be patient, and if they ever come out with a 150 watt version, then I will pick one up for sure.

:joint: :wave:
 

BonsaiBud

Member
It is almost done

It is almost done

I could not have done it without IC. I'd like to thank all those who have responded to my posts and the many more from whom I just lurked around and picked up ideas. It will be another 2 months until these finish. I may have another box by then.

The color is a bit off. It looks more orange in real life. The camera just does not know what to do without "white" aka green light. No green light here, none. I have to take my plants out and look at them under 5000K daylight "stark white" light in order to really see them.

The final step is the SCROG. I am looking for a nice net with 1 inch holes. IDEA hammock! HAMMOCK SCROG it is perfect.




 
W

WheelsOG

Hey guys :wave:

I thought i'd jump in this thread, and put a few pics up. I learned tons of good info from this thread and the micro grow sub-forum.

I have a very basic closet grow with:

150 watt HPS light
100 CFM fan
Medium: 1 part Soil, 1 Part Perlite
Nutrients: just ph corrected Advanced Nutrients Grow-Micro-Bloom

I'm growing two pheno's of nirvana's Jock Horror from seed.

One pheno is producing light airy buds, that keep stretching and stretching. Perhaps a Haze pheno?

My second pheno is my favorite. It was the runt of the litter but is mostly tight buds. Great Calyx to leaf ratio. I'm going to try to reveg this pheno then try to stick four clones of it under my 150 watt bulb.

Anyways, onto the pics :)



The ghetto cabinet :)



Picture of the runt.




Top bud shot of Runt




Random bud on Runt



Far Right bud on Runt. The 'big' bud. Smells like Lime Lifesaver!

 

sugabear_II

Active member
Veteran
welcome to all the new members - some really nice bud porn there wheelsog

very interested in the cmh talk - has anyone done a gram/watt comparison on those ?

-suga
 

sugabear_II

Active member
Veteran
Hoosierhash said:
Greetings 150 club!
I've been watching things here, and hope I can tag along.
I have been putting together my first cab, and using two cheapo 150w capacitorless lights from Econo.
I think folks may be a bit disappointed when they purchase these $20 lights, only to find out they have a terrible power factor. And yes, they do create more heat than a light with a capacitor, and they will also draw a huge load, BUT unless you are growing in a commercial or industrial site, you will not be charged by the Elec co for more power. It doesn't work like that, and I hate to try to explain it, but we pay the same price at the meter be it with or without a capacitor.
Having said that, heat is one of the biggest enemies we have, and it not only hurts the grow, but it hurts the igniter as well. SO it is wise to fit the proper capacitor to our cheapo light.
A 150 HPS require the following: 14MFD (or uF) rated at 280-330 volts AC.
You will probably only find a cap. in the "dry" barrel form. The oil fills are usually not made in this size anymore. It will have either two leads on it, or will have two 1/4" fork type quick connectors. (either are fine to use)

If you can find one of these animals, the price ranges will shock you. I found one the other day that lists for $82. They (Advance Electronics) are very proud of that cap.

Here are a couple links to the proper capacitor for very little coin: (<$10 but about $11 ship)
http://www.hidquickfix.com/cafor150wa.html
http://www.atlaslightingsupply.com/cap_ignitor.html

I also noticed some confusion on just how to wire these rascals up...
They need to be in parallel. Meaning they need to have one lead on the black wire from your power source and the other wire to the white lead of your power source. This should probably be the first thing that your incoming power lines see before going to the transformer and igniter.

Hope this was of some help.

Anywho, again I offer greetings. Hope to be around for a good while.

hh

hey HH thanks so much for posting the capacitor needed and and those links... the power factor issue has always been a tough one for me to explain but you said it nicely - never thought about the heat though - good point to remember

and as he mentioned and was brought to my attention in the DIY remote ur ballast thread the latest answer is that e-conolight 150s are pretty bad power factor lamps...

so please folks consider the venture kits (link on page1 of this thread) which include a capacitor.

here's a diagram I did for with capacitor - HH I am pretty sure it's right -does it look right to you?



and a copy more traditional diagrams



 
P

phr3d0m2gr0

Anybody know if HD has the correct capacitors?

Anyway some centerfold action for ya'll, Northern Lights:



-Phr3
 

Poker_Toker

Member
so you can add a cap to the econolights to correct the power factor thats awesome.

if you guys want check out this other thread i emailed econolight and got some numbers for you guys for econolights 150hps, a 250mh and 400w hps they sell.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=36344&page=2

70w mh 2.10 operating amperes, starting is 2.60

150w hps no cap - 3.20 operating amperes, starting is 4.50

The 250 MH is 2.50 operating amperes

The 400 HPS 120 volt is 3.90 operating amperes
 

sugabear_II

Active member
Veteran
poker toker thanks for the data on the e-conolights - yes you can add a capacitor and it will correct the power factor of the econolight.
 

Pipedream

Proudly Growing My Own Since 1969
Veteran
:rasta:

Hey All.
Things are really looking great here. Grows and cabs are both excellent!

I just wanted to drop in my two cents on the capacitor issue, so here are two thoughts each worth a penny......

First off, while capacitors do offer an advantage by improving the power factor and thereby also lowering the heat, they can be fairly expensive for some of our less established growers. But fear not, they are readily available free of charge as long as you don't mind a bit of dumpster diving or trash scrounging. Virtually every old air-conditioner you see in the trash will have one or two inside for the taking. They are called Start and Run caps in this situation, and can have the same or even larger ratings.

Second thought, large caps are like an animal with a bad temperament, handle them the wrong way, and they WILL bite you. The larger the capacitor, the bigger the teeth it has. While a cap stores energy just like a battery, by nature they are designed to give up their entire charge instantaneously. Over my career as an engineer, I've seen plenty of melted screwdrivers, techs with bad finger burns, and several get knocked right on their asses from not being careful. A properly sized cap for a 150w HPS isn’t going to kill you, but it could give you a good scare and make you drop what you are holding. Work safe & work smart, always discharge a cap or a circuit containing one before you start. A good method is to use a 20,000 ohm resistor. And, pull the plug from the wall first, and ask if you aren’t sure of what you are doing.

JMHO feel free to disregard any or all of it.

One Love, PD :wave:

:rasta:
 
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sugabear_II

Active member
Veteran
all very good points pipedream

People must be aware that capacitors do store charge and must be discharged even if there unit is unplugged
 
G

Guest

Suga, your last diagram is spot on my friend.

Like Pipedream explained, larger capacitors could be used. Although this DIY stuff is second nature to many of us, for some it is a bit daunting. If I didn't feel 100% comfortable tinkering around with electricity, I would simply spend just a few more coins and get one pre-made. If you don't feel the energy in what you are doing, you prolly soon will. Wiring up the proper parts is alot for some, and I would not recommend digging into an old ac unit unless I at least had read up on capacitors and what they do and how they act. Like the man (or woman, sorry PD don't know you) stated, they can be very "electrifying" if not handled properly.
I have pulled the old charged up auto capacitor thrown to a buddy routine, where the thing is charged up with a nice jolt of DC power and as soon as someone touched both the wire and the case...SHocko! Great fun too, as long as the man you threw it too can't bludgeon your ass.

phr3d0m2gr0, I don't think you will find this animal at HD.
The two links I gave previously are going to be your best shot at finding them easy. Even industrial distr houses may not have it, or at least they will be hard to deal with when they find out you will accept even a close facsimile. They may not feel comfortable helping you choose an alternate if they feel you are clueless.

sickboy, I think you made a great find. WTG!


Folks electricity is serious business, and it would kill my soul to think that any of our brothers and sisters were harmed in any way by screwing around with this. If you feel comfortable about this, as many of us clearly do, then go for it. If you are apprehensive, why take the chance?
And I have never been too proud to ask help from someone I know has an upper hand on the task.
 

sickboy

Member
:) i just hope it comes wired... otherwise ill ask u guys for a helping hand in wiring it...
anyways, i guess im (almost) a member of the 150 club too, glad im getting rid of those ugly envirolites :p u guys think ill notice a lot of difference in yield, when switching from a scrog with 125 watt enviro above it to a scrog with 150 watts of hps above it?
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
guys I have a question for those who used HPS and also MH:

I have one MH and one HPS, both 150 W, the MH has 21.000 lumens, the HPS 13.000 lumens. Whitch is best to use MH for veg and HPS for flowering or to use MH from start to end?
 

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