How’s this? I am going to try it out… i’ve been using lost coast plant therapy which is citric acid-based + soy oil ..is effective but you have to use it continuously ..I want to try sulfur
Citric acid foliar spray for powdery mildew?
- Thread starter goingrey
- Start date
i just bought a bag of this- will be delivered next week - don't need it now, as plants are small, but in a month and longer will start a weekly/bi-weekly spraying program - and i'm indoors...
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
yes that should work
the recipe calls for 1 tablespoon per liter but I used 1 teaspoon on the plants an a tablespoon for everything else.
Last year I sprayed my greenhouse wallls, floor and 20ft around the greenhouse. Sprayed all the pots and containers as well. I repeated that this year before the plants went out to the greenhouse and I also gave the plants a spray down at start of the greenhouse season (june 10 for me)
I am just about to harvest the last 7 plants and not a spot of PM to be seen. My entire greenhouse run this year is PM free. All thanx to micronized sulphur spray.
sublingual
Well-known member
So, no one has mentioned using silica. Some will say that PM is virtually nonexistent if silica is used.
Getting ready to buy some more and finding all kinds of new products such as Power Si. Mammoth has one too that's a bit cheaper. These products are not sucker products either as many pros use them. Will do more research before I buy, but one feature stood out for me with the newer products: no pH drift.
Getting ready to buy some more and finding all kinds of new products such as Power Si. Mammoth has one too that's a bit cheaper. These products are not sucker products either as many pros use them. Will do more research before I buy, but one feature stood out for me with the newer products: no pH drift.
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
there are certain things that will help boost a plants natural immunity or resistance to the various pathogens and insects that plague growers. High brix methods of growing also set the plant up to be able to resist many things.
Upping base calcium content and other products such as silica and others, help the plants build strong tissue and cell walls that can resist many garden ailments.
I am not sure if Silica in itself kills powdery mildew but if it gives the plant more resistance then it is beneficial for sure.
Micronized sulphur spray actually kills the powdery mildew spores and rids the plant and anywhere else it is sprayed of the parasite altogether. It can be repeated on plants or grow area surfaces every 30 to 36 days as part of a VEG IPM strategy.
Remember.... Powdery Mildew has a 40 day cycle. So when you see the spots appearing on a plant, it was originally infected at least 40 days ago. So spraying every 30 to 36 days is an appropriate defense against infection.
The idea.... at least from my point of view..... is that if the micronized sulpher spray is used efficiently, it is erradicated from the environment altogether and future risk of infection is minimal and controlled.
Plants take longer than 40 days (pm gestation cycle) to flower so if micronized sulpher is sprayed right before the flip to 12/12 , the plants are protected until at least day 50 and even then if any spores were to take hold after day 40 or 50...... the fruiting of spore spots would take at least 40 more days. Which is well past harvest time for most strains assuming 56 to 77 days for the average cultivars these days.
Upping base calcium content and other products such as silica and others, help the plants build strong tissue and cell walls that can resist many garden ailments.
I am not sure if Silica in itself kills powdery mildew but if it gives the plant more resistance then it is beneficial for sure.
Micronized sulphur spray actually kills the powdery mildew spores and rids the plant and anywhere else it is sprayed of the parasite altogether. It can be repeated on plants or grow area surfaces every 30 to 36 days as part of a VEG IPM strategy.
Remember.... Powdery Mildew has a 40 day cycle. So when you see the spots appearing on a plant, it was originally infected at least 40 days ago. So spraying every 30 to 36 days is an appropriate defense against infection.
The idea.... at least from my point of view..... is that if the micronized sulpher spray is used efficiently, it is erradicated from the environment altogether and future risk of infection is minimal and controlled.
Plants take longer than 40 days (pm gestation cycle) to flower so if micronized sulpher is sprayed right before the flip to 12/12 , the plants are protected until at least day 50 and even then if any spores were to take hold after day 40 or 50...... the fruiting of spore spots would take at least 40 more days. Which is well past harvest time for most strains assuming 56 to 77 days for the average cultivars these days.
Can you hit him at the flip and then once more maybe like two weeks in before flowers develop really? Or you do not want to do that and stop at the flip ? reason I’m asking is because I have seven plants I want to treat and they’re almost ready to go into
12/12 .. they’re clean I wanna keep them that way though ..been fighting powdery mildew for three years because I’ve never been able to shut down indoors
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
look around outside the grow for signs of PM in the yard and then if found spray the sulphur.
It has to be coming from somewhere as it only infects in a localized environment.
I would be hestitant to spray in any stage of flower once pistils are presenting.
If you spray in the week before the flip, you should be okay but if it is a recurring problem..... finding the source that is infecting the garden is essential I would think.
That is why I sprayed outside around the greenhouse and all the pots and misted it through the fans as they were running being careful not to directly spray the motors LOL
I am no expert..... just relaying what worked for me and giving info based on joecrowe's methods.
It has to be coming from somewhere as it only infects in a localized environment.
I would be hestitant to spray in any stage of flower once pistils are presenting.
If you spray in the week before the flip, you should be okay but if it is a recurring problem..... finding the source that is infecting the garden is essential I would think.
That is why I sprayed outside around the greenhouse and all the pots and misted it through the fans as they were running being careful not to directly spray the motors LOL
I am no expert..... just relaying what worked for me and giving info based on joecrowe's methods.
Ca++
Well-known member
Citric and lots of plant oils can be found in Trifecta Crop Control.
That's just making the place inhospitable. Another control method is bacteria that eat the PM.
A common one of the last few years is Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens. Found in Southern AG garden friendly fungicide. The same ingredient is sold in a costly product that hardly contains any. It's important not to overdose it. It also has uses keeping a clean res, where people have used so much, they had to then use h2o2 to kill it.
Recently attention has shifted to Bacillus Subtilis. The ingredient is Serenade. Tests are showing it to be better. Either are sprayed on the plant, to live there. As the plant gets bigger, more is applied. If there is no molds to eat, it dies off. This generally means a spore somewhere will evade deletion. So it's effective control applied regularly. Then that same discontinuation as flowering commences. Where we 'start the clock' (Anneka Rice, Treasure Hunt)
That's just making the place inhospitable. Another control method is bacteria that eat the PM.
A common one of the last few years is Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens. Found in Southern AG garden friendly fungicide. The same ingredient is sold in a costly product that hardly contains any. It's important not to overdose it. It also has uses keeping a clean res, where people have used so much, they had to then use h2o2 to kill it.
Recently attention has shifted to Bacillus Subtilis. The ingredient is Serenade. Tests are showing it to be better. Either are sprayed on the plant, to live there. As the plant gets bigger, more is applied. If there is no molds to eat, it dies off. This generally means a spore somewhere will evade deletion. So it's effective control applied regularly. Then that same discontinuation as flowering commences. Where we 'start the clock' (Anneka Rice, Treasure Hunt)
am the source of my own contaminants inside and outside constantly the indoor arrears never shut down is perpetual there’s always new things coming in and out it never gets cleaned out and my sanitary practices are abysmal so other than that completely shutting it down and doing what should be doing..at the moment spraying maintenance is the option..
Nice to be clean and effective some thing that you can use right up to harvest was is my thinking in the past..I’m really intrigued by giving them wettable sulphur Spray applications before they get into flowering and see if that helps
Nice to be clean and effective some thing that you can use right up to harvest was is my thinking in the past..I’m really intrigued by giving them wettable sulphur Spray applications before they get into flowering and see if that helps
Ca++
Well-known member
I have seen 3% h2o2 used to wash it off harvested buds. Very brief wash, then wash off. I'm not sure how a growing plant would respond to it though. People gargle the stuff at 3%, and clean wounds with it.
The problem with sulphur, is that most of the useful plant matter, grows after the last application. Unlike the bacterial treatments (which are approved) the sulphur can't move to the new material.
There are some quite involved papers on this topic. Testing the usual farm treatments, and more unusual ones, such as UV. Here is a quite compacted study https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/07060661.2020.1836026
There is a recurring theme, that these studies don't include Sulphur. Which has a hang a question mark over it's effectiveness. I suspect, like milk, it's a bit outdated.
Leading research teams are still unsure if PM is systemic. While any doubt remains, so to must we be doubtful of surface treatments before bloom. They can't help what grows after treatment, except by lessening the number of spores in the room.
I should add, that while bacterial applications would be best stopped before bloom, these same bacteria are used in things such as strawberry production, where application during fruiting is very likely. There is an issue here, that there really isn't much testing being done. They are approved, as they are living in soils anyway. There is no escaping them. Bacillus Subtilis is found in our digestive system. It's not foreign to us. Though smoking it is something else.
The more you read about crop size and reduced resin production from PM pressure, the more you have to wonder what the true cost of not eradicating it is.
The problem with sulphur, is that most of the useful plant matter, grows after the last application. Unlike the bacterial treatments (which are approved) the sulphur can't move to the new material.
There are some quite involved papers on this topic. Testing the usual farm treatments, and more unusual ones, such as UV. Here is a quite compacted study https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/07060661.2020.1836026
There is a recurring theme, that these studies don't include Sulphur. Which has a hang a question mark over it's effectiveness. I suspect, like milk, it's a bit outdated.
Leading research teams are still unsure if PM is systemic. While any doubt remains, so to must we be doubtful of surface treatments before bloom. They can't help what grows after treatment, except by lessening the number of spores in the room.
I should add, that while bacterial applications would be best stopped before bloom, these same bacteria are used in things such as strawberry production, where application during fruiting is very likely. There is an issue here, that there really isn't much testing being done. They are approved, as they are living in soils anyway. There is no escaping them. Bacillus Subtilis is found in our digestive system. It's not foreign to us. Though smoking it is something else.
The more you read about crop size and reduced resin production from PM pressure, the more you have to wonder what the true cost of not eradicating it is.
shishkaboy
>>>>Beanie Man<<<<
Im telling yall Athena Ipm. Follow the bottle.
Dont use sulfur if your plants have any resin glands
Dont use sulfur if your plants have any resin glands
Bro, Athena ipm. Trust me
I’ll hit them with sulfur in veg right before 12 and 12
shishkaboy
>>>>Beanie Man<<<<
For the first few weeks it’s no problemo, after resin starts the sulfur sticks to the resin and you can’t wash it off.
I was using a combination of sulfur and peroxide to keep it at bay for a while. Now this Athena is way better.
It kinda had the same effect as the sulfur where if a spot pops back up the mildew won’t be able to spread much further. I think it’s the ph of the leaf due to the citric acid, as opposed to the sulfur leaving micronized residues.
I’m perpetual so I totally understand the situation.
Game changer
I tried Regalia and it didn’t work either
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I appreciate your experience..I’ll grab that product as well
Here :
Our Athena IPM not only manages but also cures powdery mildew, offering an end-to-end solution for your gardening needs. We take pride in ensuring our product is free from artificial pesticides or fungicides, with all ingredients responsibly sourced from within the USA. Athena IPM is safe to use from the seedling stage right through to harvest, allowing for seamless integration into your gardening routine.
Athena IPM is an EPA 25(b) Exempt product with minimal risk ingredients and is currently approved for use in numerous states across the country. Trust Athena IPM for an effective, safe, and eco-friendly pest management experience.
Athena - IPM
Introducing Athena IPM, a revolutionary pest management formula that tackles a wide range of soft-bodied insects and mildew, providing robust protection for your plants. This potent solution is expertly crafted to penetrate plant crevices and leaf surfaces where unwanted biotic diseases attempt to colonize, acting swiftly on contact to eliminate threats and secure the health and productivity of your plants.Our Athena IPM not only manages but also cures powdery mildew, offering an end-to-end solution for your gardening needs. We take pride in ensuring our product is free from artificial pesticides or fungicides, with all ingredients responsibly sourced from within the USA. Athena IPM is safe to use from the seedling stage right through to harvest, allowing for seamless integration into your gardening routine.
Athena IPM is an EPA 25(b) Exempt product with minimal risk ingredients and is currently approved for use in numerous states across the country. Trust Athena IPM for an effective, safe, and eco-friendly pest management experience.
Here’s my product that I’ve been using I intended to use it in conjunction with the sulfur &
let’s compare ingredients with Athena
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
Powdery Mildew is NOT systemic. I don't care what the experts say....... they are wrong.
So far everyone wants to go back to the PM "controls" offered by companies that want to keep you buying thier stuff rather than PM Killers like Micronized Sulphur.
Controls will ensure that the PM spores are always present and able to reinfect ..... leading folks to believe in the PM is Sytemic myth.
You want to KILL THE PM DEAD , not manage or control it..... KILL IT.
So far I have seen only one method that KILLS PM...... RIDS IT from the garden space.
If PM was systemic all the plants that had it last year will have it this year right?
You see.... I have sprayed no Controls...... Haven't sprayed my plants since June and yet I am able to go to a full term harvest without a spot of PM anywhere to be found on my plants or the natural vegetation around the greenhouse. If PM was systemic it would have been passed on through cloning and all my plants would be infected and showing spore spots...... Didn't happen this year because I eradicated it from my plants, my equipment and pots and the growing environment. None of my indoor has it either and if PM was systemic and seeing as I have not sprayed any deterents or controls since June...... this Systemic PM should be everywhere by now. It's not because I killed it dead with Micronized Sulphur spray.
Stop chasing your tails and stop spending on products that only hide the problem only for it to appear again and again despite all the dollars spent on the numerous products that claim to do a thing that they are not doing. If it can't kill the parasite dead ..... why use it?
Serenade or Natria after rebranding..... is an effective spray to treat Fusarium and if caught early can offer excellent results. I am not aware of it being used for Powdery Mildew on Cannabis. Tried a leaf test with serenade/natria and it killed the leaf. The stuff is meant to be sprayed on stem tissue not leaves.
I would not even attempt to use it on Powdery Mildew as it is really not meant for that.
I have given you all information based on my actual use and application and I am being wholly honest as I am just trying to help. Nothing I have tried , actually defeated powdery mildew , and I have tried so many things recommended on these weed sites. I have nothing invested, nothing to gain and I am the last guy that will intentionally steer a fellow grower wrong.
I will say it again...... I eradicated Powdery Mildew from my indoor and greenhouse. I applied it last season after harvest to all plants, pots and growing area surfaces and did not see any PM indoors all winter. I applied the last micronized sulphur sprays to my plants, greenhouse and pots in early June when everything transitioned to the greenhouse.
I have not treated my plants with any follow up applications of sulphur since June or any other product that controls bugs, PM or any other garden ailment.
and yet I managed a clean harvest and PM is nowhere to be seen around my greenhouse.
How is this possible?
Micronized Sulphur Spray
My honest intention is to help my fellow growers and I would NEVER stick my neck out this far , making the claims that I am...... if I wasn't 1000% positive that i was not talking out my ass.
if you do try this and it works...... please let everyone here know and be sure to give credit to JoeCrowe as he is the guy doing the science that no one wants to accept
Kinda baffles me that there is any resistance at all but growers are a wierd bunch sometimes LOL
Save your money, save your garden, trust me..... this shit works
So far everyone wants to go back to the PM "controls" offered by companies that want to keep you buying thier stuff rather than PM Killers like Micronized Sulphur.
Controls will ensure that the PM spores are always present and able to reinfect ..... leading folks to believe in the PM is Sytemic myth.
You want to KILL THE PM DEAD , not manage or control it..... KILL IT.
So far I have seen only one method that KILLS PM...... RIDS IT from the garden space.
If PM was systemic all the plants that had it last year will have it this year right?
You see.... I have sprayed no Controls...... Haven't sprayed my plants since June and yet I am able to go to a full term harvest without a spot of PM anywhere to be found on my plants or the natural vegetation around the greenhouse. If PM was systemic it would have been passed on through cloning and all my plants would be infected and showing spore spots...... Didn't happen this year because I eradicated it from my plants, my equipment and pots and the growing environment. None of my indoor has it either and if PM was systemic and seeing as I have not sprayed any deterents or controls since June...... this Systemic PM should be everywhere by now. It's not because I killed it dead with Micronized Sulphur spray.
Stop chasing your tails and stop spending on products that only hide the problem only for it to appear again and again despite all the dollars spent on the numerous products that claim to do a thing that they are not doing. If it can't kill the parasite dead ..... why use it?
Serenade or Natria after rebranding..... is an effective spray to treat Fusarium and if caught early can offer excellent results. I am not aware of it being used for Powdery Mildew on Cannabis. Tried a leaf test with serenade/natria and it killed the leaf. The stuff is meant to be sprayed on stem tissue not leaves.
I would not even attempt to use it on Powdery Mildew as it is really not meant for that.
I have given you all information based on my actual use and application and I am being wholly honest as I am just trying to help. Nothing I have tried , actually defeated powdery mildew , and I have tried so many things recommended on these weed sites. I have nothing invested, nothing to gain and I am the last guy that will intentionally steer a fellow grower wrong.
I will say it again...... I eradicated Powdery Mildew from my indoor and greenhouse. I applied it last season after harvest to all plants, pots and growing area surfaces and did not see any PM indoors all winter. I applied the last micronized sulphur sprays to my plants, greenhouse and pots in early June when everything transitioned to the greenhouse.
I have not treated my plants with any follow up applications of sulphur since June or any other product that controls bugs, PM or any other garden ailment.
and yet I managed a clean harvest and PM is nowhere to be seen around my greenhouse.
How is this possible?
Micronized Sulphur Spray
My honest intention is to help my fellow growers and I would NEVER stick my neck out this far , making the claims that I am...... if I wasn't 1000% positive that i was not talking out my ass.
if you do try this and it works...... please let everyone here know and be sure to give credit to JoeCrowe as he is the guy doing the science that no one wants to accept
Kinda baffles me that there is any resistance at all but growers are a wierd bunch sometimes LOL
Save your money, save your garden, trust me..... this shit works
goingrey
Well-known member
This is utter nonsense. Sulfur to control pm is well established and something everyone knows about. It is used by every commercial tomato and cucumber greenhouse and has been for a long time.
This thread was supposed to be about citric acid for this purpose. Less well known or at least more recently adopted. Maybe not as effective but also has some benefits.
and all good
