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Diary Mars FCE-6500 680w LED Grow Journal

Hammerhead

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I had to order a dehumidifier.. The walls are dripping with condensation. This won't work like that so should be here in a few days. The Destiney male has started to drop pollen.. I put a female in with him to make f2's. That will be done in a week... The 2 Ohazes are females... The 2 BA7 XA5h no sex showing yet. 3 more seedlings of HK X THH are up.. These will be used to flower under this light..If they stretch too much I might have to relocate to the main flower room, but the 1st plant run did not stretch a lot.
 

Hammerhead

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I made some changes with the airflow, opening a few lower vent flaps to let air in and circulate. Dehumidifier says Saturday delivery.
 

Hammerhead

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Still waiting for the dehumidifier.. It now says 6-7th for delivery... I took down my WT X P41 male today. That was a 5hr job to clean the tent and everything that was inside the tent.. Pollen can live on for weeks waiting to do the deed. I washed the drip liner, all the fans and cords for everything got wiped down. The LED was wiped down as best I could.. The tent walls/door got sprayed and then wiped down. I put the 20" high-velocity floor fan inside to dry it off. I can't flower any males until I get the 5x5 up. Not possible to flower males in the same tent, very risky. I flower males or reverse females often so that's a priority.
 

Hammerhead

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I got the Dehumidifier last night. It's in the tent set to 50%. It is inside taking up some space. I'll see if it's even needed now that there is good air exchange with the flaps open. I don't think anything else is needed. With the 5x5 I don't think a dehuy will be needed. Finding space for it and be able to work will be the tricky part. For now, the 8x4 will be fine to test in. The larger the space the more you need to keep the space RH under control. I'm pretty sure that's why I had condensation. All I had was a male and 2 small 10" plants. My veg room has no environmental controls, other than airflow. Temps are not something I can control. Led will work great in there when summer hits that room will be 100f for many months. My 6" scrubber is set up outside the tent so no space is wasted.

I'm putting this DBMH into flower today. She is the only plant in this tent... I have separate veg and flower tents. This had about 60 days veg. It will be a great test. This pheno yields massive when happy. I still have it set at 400w. After 30 days I will bump it to 600w, After 40 days I will max it at 680w. I noticed taking pics in these tents reflect the green focus led. Its hard to get the pics to be bright enough.
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Mars Hydro Led

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Yeah, the big lady looks super green now. She will be a monster for 60 days veg. :D
 
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bugman52

Bug Scissor Hand
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I think he is referring to pulse width modulation.

Im looking for ideas to mount fans that I can slide up/.down.. I found some pole clamps but there 19mm and I need 16mm. Any ideas?.. I could modify these but if anything is similar that will fit post a link.
filedata/fetch?id=18079997&d=1645492004

cut a pice of rubbre, plastic or vinal tubing ,split it down the side to shim up the clamp, it can be moved up or down with the clamp
 

Hammerhead

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I installed the shelf today. It works perfectly for any tabletop or small floor fan. Putting 2 of these in the opposite corners should provide the airflow needed. I attached it on the center pole since the other side isn't used for now.
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f-e

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That's a 600w driver. You expect to see about 650w at the wall. 730w would make it about 82% efficient. Anything remotely decent is in the 90s

Edit: Damn, I'm answering a page one question :)
 

Hammerhead

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That's a 600w driver. You expect to see about 650w at the wall. 730w would make it about 82% . Anything remotely decent is in the 90s

Edit: Damn, I'm answering a page one question :)
I measured the wattage Im getting 680w. im not following your math.. If the driver is only rated for 600w and it's putting out 730w that's 130w more than its rated for. I get 120%
 

f-e

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I measured the wattage Im getting 680w. im not following your math.. If the driver is only rated for 600w and it's putting out 730w that's 130w more than its rated for. I get 120%

A 600w driver, is for a 600w lamp. On top of this, there are driver losses.
The meanwell for this job is 96% efficient, so it would take 625w from the wall. Use 25w itself, and give 600 to the lamp.
I can only find the Moso spec on 3rd party sites, where the claim is 600w Max, as you would expect. It's labeled a 600w driver.
An electronic item that will run 110-277v 50-60hz won't be as efficient on every supply it can take. That's why we often see the input power change. It's driver efficiency. The output should remain 600w regardless of input. I say should.. as drivers often don't keep to spec.

If it actually took 730w to make 600w that's almost a 20% loss. About 80% efficiency. You could use 3.0 ppf/w led's, but with 20% wasted away, you get a 2.4 ppf/w light. Same light with the meanwells 4% loss, 2.88 ppf/w. It would be no brighter though. Just less electricity being wasted by the driver.

Perhaps the Moso is way off spec, and is putting out 650w. The 72v 600w meanwell is 605w so things do vary from the label spec sometimes.
 

Hammerhead

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A 600w driver, is for a 600w lamp. On top of this, there are driver losses.
The meanwell for this job is 96% efficient, so it would take 625w from the wall. Use 25w itself, and give 600 to the lamp.
I can only find the Moso spec on 3rd party sites, where the claim is 600w Max, as you would expect. It's labeled a 600w driver.
An electronic item that will run 110-277v 50-60hz won't be as efficient on every supply it can take. That's why we often see the input power change. It's driver efficiency. The output should remain 600w regardless of input. I say should.. as drivers often don't keep to spec.

If it actually took 730w to make 600w that's almost a 20% loss. About 80% efficiency. You could use 3.0 ppf/w led's, but with 20% wasted away, you get a 2.4 ppf/w light. Same light with the meanwells 4% loss, 2.88 ppf/w. It would be no brighter though. Just less electricity being wasted by the driver.

Perhaps the Moso is way off spec, and is putting out 650w. The 72v 600w meanwell is 605w so things do vary from the label spec sometimes.

I'm still not following that for this driver?... 120v into the driver produced 680w. The driver is rated for 600w max at 120-240v. where are these other wattage's coming from? I'm getting 680w from a 600w driver it is way out of spec but not in a bad way. I have no clue how you are calculating what wattage its trully making for an output of 680w? Where is the info that has data for this?. I looked up this model and cant find it X6-600M060A12. X6 Programmable LED Drivers are developed for professional exterior lighting, including public lighting, industrial lighting, horticulture lighting. I have no clue if the driver is the same on the 730w model. Where are you getting those numbers from?.
 
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f-e

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I'm still not following that for this driver?... 120v into the driver produced 680w. The driver is rated for 600w max at 120-240v. where are these other wattage's coming from? I'm getting 680w from a 600w driver it is way out of spec but not in a bad way. I have no clue how you are calculating what wattage its trully making for an output of 680w? Where is the info that has data for this?. I looked up this model and cant find it X6-600M060A12. X6 Programmable LED Drivers are developed for professional exterior lighting, including public lighting, industrial lighting, horticulture lighting. I have no clue if the driver is the same on the 730w model. Where are you getting those numbers from?.

I think you are measuring power consumed, with a plug between your wall outlet and the ballast. The power consumption is the top third of the sticker. I can't read it all, but can see it works from 100v-277v and as such is used everywhere.

The middle third of that sticker is power out. It's a separate set of figures, because the power consumed and the power given out to the LEDs is not the same thing. It states, the maximum it can send to the LEDs is 600w. It's a 600 driver.

It's job is to take power from the wall, and give out 600w. The type of power it receives from the wall, has an influence on how good a job of converting that power it can do.

Presuming it's giving out that maximum 600w, and taking 680w, then the driver is using 80w itself. Mostly heating up.

The third part of the sticker is a real blur, but appears to be temperature information. It tells you how hot it gets, while producing that 600w, on different voltage supplies. Specifically it says the same temperature from 100-250v but a different temperature when running from 250-277v. I'm going to guess that it runs hotter at 277v and the Input plates figures (I can't read) amount to 730w if that's your expectation. However, it looks like 2.8A to me, and 2.8 x 277 is about 775w consumed to give out 600w to the LEDs.

If we needed 775w to produce 600w that would be about 77% efficient. If we look at the light as a whole, we may have leds that can manage 3.0 ppf/w but to get that watt we need about 1.3w from the wall. So the light as a whole, produces about 2.3 ppf/w. When running in a worse case scenario.

You really don't want to see it using 730w. 680w is better. In either case it's trying to output 600. The best you could hope for, would be seeing 625w on your meter. Which you would, if it were a meanwell. That's 150w less. Most of which is heat. Non is light.

680w is okay. It's priced accordingly. The meanwell is a $200 item.
 
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Hammerhead

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I didn't include that voltage since it's not commonly used for most, I only use 120-240v. I get the same wattage if 240v is used. The only thing that changes is amps. 277v is a commercial operation voltage. I still can't locate any info on how much wattage this driver is wasting to make 680w. Where is this info that 775w Is needed to make 600w?. I gave up searching for it. I'm measuring the wattage the light uses based on the dimming knob. It works as it should, Min/Max 0-680w.

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