Diary Mars FCE-6500 680w LED Grow Journal

[Hammerhead]

I have other LED'S that do not have on board control, id have to get an add-on from another company.. IMO all LED should have onboard control ports like Mars does. At some point ill need to get a controller like above. I'm hoping I can replace my 1kw CMH with LED. Figuring out how to best use LED is like starting from scratch.

 

[f-e]

Hammerhead
If you wanted to make older one's dimmable, swapping the drivers would be better than trying to dim them via their power connection. The old drivers have value to people that build their own lights, so it's not dead money. This 0-10v is quite standard. Fan control is the same. Now that fans are also electronic with internal drivers.

 

[Hammerhead]

Hammerhead
If you wanted to make older one's dimmable, swapping the drivers would be better than trying to dim them via their power connection. The old drivers have value to people that build their own lights, so it's not dead money. This 0-10v is quite standard. Fan control is the same. Now that fans are also electronic with internal drivers.

The 320w doesn't come with a dimming knob. The 320 driver does have dimming wires. I just don't see the need to dim the SP-250 or the 320w led's. The 650 has dimming installed but no rj45 jacks for daisy chaining. I've read about this but don't see an easy fix to make them all together on a single controller.

 

[f-e]

rj45 is a US phone cable isnt it?
A phone extension lead would offer both in&out connections to physically add them to your light. I'm not sure which coloured wires are used though, as it's a non-standard use.

People talk about switches on the connection boxes. It's a bit mystical to me. I presume it's to switch off the lights own dimmer control as it would effect all others connected to it. I personally daisy-chain them, and set every light to full, except the one you want to adjust them all. Which can be any along the chain.

If you intend to use external 10v or pwm control then you must disconnect the variable at each light. Otherwise the number of lights you can link is effected. I did such an install and posted it, but forget the finer details.

 

[Hammerhead]

rj45 is a US phone cable isnt it?
A phone extension lead would offer both in&out connections to physically add them to your light. I'm not sure which coloured wires are used though, as it's a non-standard use.

People talk about switches on the connection boxes. It's a bit mystical to me. I presume it's to switch off the lights own dimmer control as it would effect all others connected to it. I personally daisy-chain them, and set every light to full, except the one you want to adjust them all. Which can be any along the chain.

If you intend to use external 10v or pwm control then you must disconnect the variable at each light. Otherwise the number of lights you can link is effected. I did such an install and posted it, but forget the finer details.

As far as im aware HLG doesn't have the capability without using a 3rd party addon like trolmaster. I dont know why theyu dont add that on there leds like everyone else does. I don't have any plans to spend $ to add it..I'm saving that extra $ and just get lights that have it already. I'm pretty sure EU models have something similar. EA led msut have these to daisy chain. 1 controller will dim, turn on/off, Sunrise/sunset programing with a timer.

 

[f-e]

Oh I think I have misunderstood. I thought you already had lights you would like to convert.

Is the pic Mars? I just noticed the slide brackets. I didn't know anybody was doing that.

My phone cable idea fell short. One end would be wrong. A wall plate outlet would serve the purpose better.
This surface one is interesting. It's only a wiring job.

 

[flylowgethigh]

That switch on the other side of that little box is the one that enables external 0-10V control, via the left side phone jack port (port 1). Not needed to run the light, but very nice to set the power and time, and if desired fade in/out, all via a controller. This is what is new.

Otherwise, turn off that switch, and the power knob is used, and a timer can control the main power plug.

This switch is to enable remote control
Use this plus outlet for control. Any controller that uses a 0-10 volt signal (standard interface) can be used. The other is to daisy chain the light, including control, to other lights on the same cycle.

My controllers are mounted in an adjacent closet for the clean look.

Mars light driver goes in the open spot. I repurposed the plastic mount.

I think added lights like UV or IR could be daisy chained, depending on the growth cycle, ie more red to finish, if the added lights also control via 0-10V signal..

 

[Hammerhead]

Oh I think I have misunderstood. I thought you already had lights you would like to convert.

Is the pic Mars? I just noticed the slide brackets. I didn't know anybody was doing that.

My phone cable idea fell short. One end would be wrong. A wall plate outlet would serve the purpose better.
This surface one is interesting. It's only a wiring job.
filedata/fetch?id=18078342&d=1645340951

That pic is Mars FCE-6500 680W version. I cant change the title to reflect that. I do have 3 other LEDs that do not have RJ45 ports, so those cant be daisy chained. The lower wattage LEDs I have no plans to dim. The 650w I wish had rj45 posts so it would work with a controller, it does have dimming only. Any LEDs I choose to replace my 1kw CMH must have these to be considered.

 

[Hammerhead]

My Destiny male gonna finish under this light.. I'm gonna make some F2's. Wont be long he will start dropping pollen.

 

[f-e]

That switch on the other side of that little box is the one that enables external 0-10V control, via the left side phone jack port (port 1). Not needed to run the light, but very nice to set the power and time, and if desired fade in/out, all via a controller. This is what is new.

Otherwise, turn off that switch, and the power knob is used, and a timer can control the main power plug.

filedata/fetch?id=18078493&d=1645364593This switch is to enable remote control
filedata/fetch?id=18078494&d=1645364593Use this plus outlet for control. Any controller that uses a 0-10 volt signal (standard interface) can be used. The other is to daisy chain the light, including control, to other lights on the same cycle.

My controllers are mounted in an adjacent closet for the clean look.

filedata/fetch?id=18078505&d=1645366307 Mars light driver goes in the open spot. I repurposed the plastic mount.

I think added lights like UV or IR could be daisy chained, depending on the growth cycle, ie more red to finish, if the added lights also control via 0-10V signal..

Thanks for the detailed reply. I guess the switch on the back decides if the driver gets the analogue knob or the rj45 signal.
Are you sure you have to use port one? It would be a nice convention to do it that way. So visiting any light, you had an advance idea of which is which. In internal wiring terms though, I wouldn't think it made a difference.


These boxes must be PWM rather than 0-10v as while 0-10v offers a good range of dimming, it's PWM that can tell a driver to actually switch off (with a duty cycle over 95% )

 

[flylowgethigh]

It came with no instructions on the control feature, so I hooked it up to my controller and played with it. What's a PWM?

Unfortunately, I won't be able to hang the 4800 light until the Sativa run is done, cause it is going in there.

 

[Hammerhead]

It came with no instructions on the control feature, so I hooked it up to my controller and played with it. What's a PWM?

Unfortunately, I won't be able to hang the 4800 light until the Sativa run is done, cause it is going in there.

I think he is referring to pulse width modulation.

Im looking for ideas to mount fans that I can slide up/.down.. I found some pole clamps but there 19mm and I need 16mm. Any ideas?.. I could modify these but if anything is similar that will fit post a link.

 

[flylowgethigh]

Wrap Gorilla tape to increase the diameter of the pole.

 

[Hammerhead]

Wrap Gorilla tape to increase the diameter of the pole.

I won't be able to slide it up/down doing that

 

[f-e]

Pulse Width Modulation, yes.
Instead of turning the 10v down, it's instead cycled on/off. The duty cycle refers to the on time, during each on/off event. It's outlined in a Dali standard.

Shame rj45 was used (I'm just taking your word it is) as this 25$ box is made for the job, but they chose rj11. An rj11 will actually fit an rj45 slot, and is 4 wires used for phones, while the rj45 is 7 wires for data. Just physically fitting is no guaranty the wiring is compatible though. One day people will open them up and post pics perhaps. It seems this UK company is happy to show how it's done with their rj11 choice https://invisiblesunled.co.uk/products/1-10v-dimmer

 

[Hammerhead]

Pulse Width Modulation, yes.
Instead of turning the 10v down, it's instead cycled on/off. The duty cycle refers to the on time, during each on/off event. It's outlined in a Dali standard.

Shame rj45 was used (I'm just taking your word it is) as this 25$ box is made for the job, but they chose rj11. An rj11 will actually fit an rj45 slot, and is 4 wires used for phones, while the rj45 is 7 wires for data. Just physically fitting is no guaranty the wiring is compatible though. One day people will open them up and post pics perhaps. It seems this UK company is happy to show how it's done with their rj11 choice https://invisiblesunled.co.uk/products/1-10v-dimmer

They do sell rj11 to rj45 adapters.. I agree, no clue if the wiring is the same. IMO the rj45 would be better for any upgrades in the future.. I checked the Mars dimmer box uses rj11. With smaller rj11 ports the rj45 will not fit. If it was the other way it would work but it can damage the port with a lose connection.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Adap...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[f-e]

The rj11 wiring seems pretty clear. It's two twisted pairs. In it's native application each pair has a + and - and could be send or receive. So you may get through or crossover cables. In our app, each pair is still a + and - but as it's just power, they can be swapped over by a crossover cable, or kept the same with a through wiring system. All we actually need is a single + and - and the other pair is just carrying them to aid us where things might get crossed over due to cable choice. Basically we just want a pair of wires, but use both pairs incase they get swapped. The designation of + and - carries over from the telephonic industry. It should all be quite easy.

The rj45 standard is a mess. That plug used to be reversible, and 45 was a specific way of using an otherwise multifunction plug. Then the keyway was added and the 45 standard cemented. Only, you look around and there is no consistant info. Even the number of pins seems a mystery. Some say, the middle 4 wires are the rj11 and an extra wire each end makes up an extra pair. Often just spares. I have wired up a small office using other office systems as guidance. Splicing cables into connectors with what felt like multiple choices. Nothing seemed to match in the kit I copied, yet somehow it all worked. Hows that happen? Even now, the power of google shows me a multitude of ways to use the rj45 and I know most are not going to be compatible.

I feel the rj11 is something I could explain, but the 45 I couldn't start to offer advice over. Even after installing such kit from bare wires.

 

[Hammerhead]

I started some more Cherry Cookies x C.Banana) x THH seeds to run under this LED. Ill start doc those after germination..

 

[Hammerhead]

Here are the Seedsman Ohaze and a few Bandaid7 x A5h I have under this light. I just planted those HK x THH seeds, all had tails so they should be up in a few days. 1 SM OH is a female.. The other one and the BA7 XA5 are not showing yet. I installed the 6" scrubber/fan today. All the new panda is up. I'm using a few clip on fans for now. I will figure out something to get a bigger oscillating fan installed..

 

[gizmo666]

and so it begins
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