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    #31
    Floramite is the best and it is the only control I use for spider mites. I have not seen a mite in over 2 years since using Floramite. I can spray down my girls once right before 12/12 and I am good to go for 8 weeks.

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      #32
      So, I've been having some issues with my house plants from this certain type of mite. It is a bulb mite, of the genus Rhizoglyphus. I believe the borg first traveled on to my jade plant back at a previous house. Now every plant with dirt only have mites, and they breed like mad. My reading up on these fellas is pretty frightening. There are not many treatments proven effective, because they are some how through evolution or exposure, resistant to chemicals of nearly the highest application. They can survive without food for nearly 30 days and are proving to be a challenge more difficult to eradicate than the red spider mite.

      Has anyone had experience with these in particular? There seems to be a predator mite for this particular strain of pest, but i don't want to go wasting money on more stuff. Also , the jade plant is about 20 years old and i would really like to keep the roots on it. Thanks!
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        #33
        hey br25...

        Quoting what lazyman posted about floramite from the product label it does look like it would be worth giving a try since it does say bulb crops.
        You can get it in a small bottle off ebay very inexpensive.

        hth

        Originally posted by Lazyman View Post
        Hm, I switched to FLoramite a few years back and will never use anything else again. It's the only that works for 3 weeks and prevents infestation, and the only ovicide I could find. It is safe on tomatoes though, here's a clip right from their label:

        FLORAMITE SC is a selective miticide for the control of a variety
        of mite pests on the following plants:
        • All ornamental plants, including bedding plants, flowering
        plants, foliage plants, bulb crops, perennials, trees and
        shrubs.
        • All non-bearing fruit trees which will not bear fruit for a minimum
        of 12 months.
        • Greenhouse tomatoes, varieties greater than 1" in diameter
        when mature.

        I mix it with DM Penetrator to make it more systemic, only have to spray the tops of the leaves, and the whole plant becomes mite-proof.

        I buy it off some Ebay guy, a couple oz at a time. Only take 1ml per gallon so it lasts a good while. Prepared sprays only good for 2 days though.
        Knowing when to water soil container plants. "Lift the pot"

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          #34
          Greate info
          thanks
          Completed– Stretching Sativas in 5 ft tent

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            #35
            Hi All

            I posted my grow problems here but I'm curious what will help with these big ol flies that I think are eating my plants?

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              #36
              I would never spray a plant to be flowered, instead spray small mothers and then when clean cut them up into small clones. Dips work better then sprays and are safer to do. Use a mask and gloves and a spray suit if you are smart. I isolate and dip any new clone 3 times, a week apart with very small clones, to make it easy. FloraMite works, but be careful if you use it.


              Here is what I use:

              Phytoseluls persimilis PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
              Target: MITES No good for short photoperiod. Use them a lot before darkening.
              They stop eating hunting and eating prey under 12 hours of light.

              Amblyseius Californicus PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
              Target: MITES & THRIPS works at higher temps and lower humidity then Phytoseluls persimilis No diapause so effective at 12 hours light.

              Macrolophus caliginosus PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
              Target: Mites, Whiteflys, Aphids, Thrips

              Feltiella acarisuga CURE ONLY, adults FLY/ larva SLITHER
              Best against big populations of MITES, larva do the killing

              Amblyseius cucumeris PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
              Target: THRIPS & MITES (get without bran mites added for food)
              No Diapause effective under 12 hours, good to use with Phytoseluls persimilis

              Stethorus punctillum, Prevent & Cure, they CRAWL the young Larva eat eggs, the older larva eat eggs and mites, adults eat both at a lesser rate. A type of Lady Bug.
              Target: MITES

              Other effective predator mites include:

              Phytoseiulus longipes

              Amblyseius fallacis

              Galendromus occidentalis


              -SamS
              Last edited by Sam_Skunkman; 06-24-2010, 18:16.

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                #37
                does anyone not use high levels of co2 to kill mites? i have heard that if you crank it up to 10-20000ppm for a few hours it will kill all bugs in the room.

                i was advised by someone who has a degree in botany and runs comercial greenhouses(not MJ) that co2 is the way to go.

                he said the way they do it is 3 times a day for 3 hours each raise co2 to 10000ppm+ and keep it at those levels for 3 hours, and repeat this 3 times a day......repeat this process for 3 days, every other day.

                what do you guys think about using co2 to kill mites?



                for me filling up 100 lbs of co2 is easier than using sprays, and imo less harmfull than using sprays and less messy than using predators....
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                  #38
                  ^yes apprantly that method also does wonders curing PM issues.

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                    #39
                    Does the product 'PURESpray Green' OMRI approved (Which is 98% petroleum oil) work at all? I keep seeing it the stores and was wondering. Does this break down the mite outer skele?

                    Also, In my OD I use this product, which I love! I mix it right into the soil in the early spring when I'm prepping with the rest of the goodies.




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                      #40
                      Anyone know if spidermites will survive in the sealed jar you put your bud in?

                      I'd like to know, because I'm in flowering and have spidermites on my plants. I've managed to keep them at bay by inspecting the leaves, wiping them and spraying them with water and sometimes alcohol. So I have no webbing or anything. So I'd like to know if once I harvest my bud and seal them in a jar, will it kill off any remaining mites on the bud? Or will I end up with eaten up, web encased buds in a jar?

                      Thanks.


                      Edit:
                      I think I have a good idea. I read that spidermites, like most living things cannot survive in a mostly Co2 environment. So perhaps I should get some canned Co2 and spray it in the jar and close it up quickly. Killing off anything living inside...
                      Check out my first grow! - Cannacopia Pommelo (In Progress)

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                        #41
                        Does anyone have any experiance wit Azamax? I also would like to know I have a some mite eggs on my flowerin plants in a 4x8 grow box. Wut should i do to go about gettin rid of these bastards. I have 4 weeks left of flower. Predetory insects?Sprays? Please help ASAP. As i FUCKIN hate these fuckers.
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                          #42
                          just treated my veg room with azamax before sending them into flower room. all is well so far. gonna alternate between that and pyrethrum. 1st day was foliar treatment, 3 days later i did a soil drench with the azamax.
                          Doing the bull dance, feeling the flow...working it, working it.

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                            #43
                            I'd like to add that my regular foliar regimen kills mites and prevents them from being established.

                            I use Spray n Grow, Bills Perfect, BCuzz Foliar and Earth Juice Catalyst and Micro for foliar feeding, not all at once of course. The most important ingredient that I use with EVERY foliar is Coco-Wet wetting agent (SnG, Bills and Coco are made by the same company and designed to be used together). The combination of Coco-Wet and organic ferts does the job preventing infestation AND increases the health and production of the plant. Also, if you brew compost/guano teas, use that as a foliar as well.

                            IME, this works as well as pyrethrum, neem, etc and is better for the plants.

                            Avid and Floramite are also awesome, but please don't use them on flowering plants. If you do use this stuff to get rid of mites, you need to treat EVERYTHING in your house, all houseplants, spray everywhere in your growing area. If you fail, you'll have the mites come back and do this a few times and you're breeding a pesticide resistant strain of mite. Please don't do this. If you use one of these products correctly you can enjoy years of mite-free operation if you are careful not to re-introduce them.

                            Another vector of contamination: flies. Don't let houseflies into your grow or anywhere near it. Mites can travel on larger insects.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by kushking20 View Post
                              Does anyone have any experiance wit Azamax? I also would like to know I have a some mite eggs on my flowerin plants in a 4x8 grow box. Wut should i do to go about gettin rid of these bastards. I have 4 weeks left of flower. Predetory insects?Sprays? Please help ASAP. As i FUCKIN hate these fuckers.

                              Just used the Azamax with a pump sprayer 4 days ago........with a doctor doom bomb that night.Have not seen one mite move yet.I had the red ones also and i hear they are easier to get rid of.Going to do a second app as preventive measures today along with another doctor doom bomb.Good luck

                              FD
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                              Originally posted by 10k
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                              But, I think I'd rather just kick the bucket than turn into a vegetarian

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                                #45
                                Azamax is neem concentrate.If your buying pyrethums dont buy ready to use bottles,get concentrates like Bug Buster and buy a small hand pump sprayer $9 use a drop or two of liquid soap as a wetting agent.Later into flowering warmer rooms need aerosols or foggers.

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