Spider Mite CONTROLS... Try This...

Justin_Credible

Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary....
How far into flower? I have used neem up to 3 weeks in flower...pyrethium bombs in the 4th week even....just set it off at lights out...

I haven't had any noticeable taste or smell in my harvested and cured crop. After the 4th week, other than getting your shop vac and adapting a way to pinpoint (straw or pen) the suction, I know of no way to put anything on the plants that you won't taste/smell...just my .04 cents (inflation & taxes)


Hey mile hi,
I use neem about two weeks in for a last shine and treatment for mites.
I'm 4 weeks in right now, going on 5 actually. I ordered what i thought was a dr doom bomb, but it is actually a spray can that you spray on the plants about 4 feet away? I'm kinda nervous to use it, but I guess I will give it a try. The mites are not that bad, just so far seem to be on one plant that i have pulled to the side. I want to treat her 1st, then after a day or two do the rest? A friend told me not to do that because then they will jump to another plant and that defeats the purpose. I just do not want to toast my whole garden, I thought I would try on one plant to see the results. Ever try this dr.doom spray can?
 

flyer

Member
i just found out i got some eggs laying under my fan leaves yesterday!!!!!:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

i have used neem oil in the past and seems to work..
i have add neem oil with some soap and poison to spary.

im just wondering how does everyone on here uses it.


i stop by my store and they out of neem oil so i brought some foxfarm "DONT BUG ME" spary.
wondering if anyone uses before?

Dont_Bug_Me_24_oz.jpg
 

Rednick

One day you will have to answer to the children of
i just found out i got some eggs laying under my fan leaves yesterday!!!!!:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

i have used neem oil in the past and seems to work..
i have add neem oil with some soap and poison to spary.

im just wondering how does everyone on here uses it.


i stop by my store and they out of neem oil so i brought some foxfarm "DONT BUG ME" spary.
wondering if anyone uses before?

Dont_Bug_Me_24_oz.jpg

I use alternations of Don't Bug Me (pyrethrins) and Azatrol (azadiractin) in my veg, and early flower (befoe budding/swelling). Kills mites dead.
 

treewizard

Member
"Don'tBugMe" is simply dried pyrethrum flowers which you can purchase from overseas via Alibaba.com, grow your own, or purchase powder under a name such as "Buhach" and neem oil is really cheap. Don't feel like you have to buy ready made stuff at a mark up. I know that we are all hurting a little in the wallet.
 

treewizard

Member
Oh really? That's funny because this is what it says here in the first paragraph of Wikipedia's entry for "Pyrethrum"

"Pyrethrum refers to several Old World plants of the genus Chrysanthemum (e.g., C. coccineum) which are cultivated as ornamentals for their showy flower heads. It is also the name of a natural insecticide made from the dried flower heads of C. cinerariifolium and C. coccineum."
 

treewizard

Member
used neem 5 weeks into flower but would reduce rates, it has a browning effect on fan leaves.
even at 5 weeks no dif on taste or smell, just look, but not of finished product. probally would use Spinosad active ingredient after week 4, less harmful to fan leaves

Neem really shouldn't burn your fan leaves if applied at the right concentration. Only spray every 3 days. Another thing that will prevent burning is to raise your light a little while you are using it.
 
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B. Friendly

"IBIUBU" Sayeith the Dude
I just find that Neem is better earlier. I prefer Spinosad products after 4 weeks of flower. They will not kill eggs so you gotta spray again 5 days later but after that I have not had problems.
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Hm, I switched to FLoramite a few years back and will never use anything else again. It's the only that works for 3 weeks and prevents infestation, and the only ovicide I could find. It is safe on tomatoes though, here's a clip right from their label:

FLORAMITE SC is a selective miticide for the control of a variety
of mite pests on the following plants:
• All ornamental plants, including bedding plants, flowering
plants, foliage plants, bulb crops, perennials, trees and
shrubs.
• All non-bearing fruit trees which will not bear fruit for a minimum
of 12 months.
• Greenhouse tomatoes, varieties greater than 1" in diameter
when mature.

I mix it with DM Penetrator to make it more systemic, only have to spray the tops of the leaves, and the whole plant becomes mite-proof.

I buy it off some Ebay guy, a couple oz at a time. Only take 1ml per gallon so it lasts a good while. Prepared sprays only good for 2 days though.
 
Hm, I switched to FLoramite a few years back and will never use anything else again. It's the only that works for 3 weeks and prevents infestation, and the only ovicide I could find. It is safe on tomatoes though, here's a clip right from their label:

FLORAMITE SC is a selective miticide for the control of a variety
of mite pests on the following plants:
• All ornamental plants, including bedding plants, flowering
plants, foliage plants, bulb crops, perennials, trees and
shrubs.
• All non-bearing fruit trees which will not bear fruit for a minimum
of 12 months.
• Greenhouse tomatoes, varieties greater than 1" in diameter
when mature.

I mix it with DM Penetrator to make it more systemic, only have to spray the tops of the leaves, and the whole plant becomes mite-proof.

I buy it off some Ebay guy, a couple oz at a time. Only take 1ml per gallon so it lasts a good while. Prepared sprays only good for 2 days though.


Can DM Penetrator be used with pesticides effectively? I was using the floramite/Penetrator combo until I checked the ph of the finished mix at 10+ph... I thought the finished spray should be at 5.5pH according to the Floramite label?

I noticed Rosemania sells a wetting agent which is ph buffered at 5.5 for pesticides; much cheaper than the gallon of Penetrator I bought.

H
 

sublbc

New member
Floramite is the best and it is the only control I use for spider mites. I have not seen a mite in over 2 years since using Floramite. I can spray down my girls once right before 12/12 and I am good to go for 8 weeks.
 

br26

Active member
So, I've been having some issues with my house plants from this certain type of mite. It is a bulb mite, of the genus Rhizoglyphus. I believe the borg first traveled on to my jade plant back at a previous house. Now every plant with dirt only have mites, and they breed like mad. My reading up on these fellas is pretty frightening. There are not many treatments proven effective, because they are some how through evolution or exposure, resistant to chemicals of nearly the highest application. They can survive without food for nearly 30 days and are proving to be a challenge more difficult to eradicate than the red spider mite.

Has anyone had experience with these in particular? There seems to be a predator mite for this particular strain of pest, but i don't want to go wasting money on more stuff. Also , the jade plant is about 20 years old and i would really like to keep the roots on it. Thanks!
 

10k

burnt out og'er
hey br25...

Quoting what lazyman posted about floramite from the product label it does look like it would be worth giving a try since it does say bulb crops.
You can get it in a small bottle off ebay very inexpensive.

hth

Hm, I switched to FLoramite a few years back and will never use anything else again. It's the only that works for 3 weeks and prevents infestation, and the only ovicide I could find. It is safe on tomatoes though, here's a clip right from their label:

FLORAMITE SC is a selective miticide for the control of a variety
of mite pests on the following plants:
• All ornamental plants, including bedding plants, flowering
plants, foliage plants, bulb crops, perennials, trees and
shrubs.
• All non-bearing fruit trees which will not bear fruit for a minimum
of 12 months.
• Greenhouse tomatoes, varieties greater than 1" in diameter
when mature.

I mix it with DM Penetrator to make it more systemic, only have to spray the tops of the leaves, and the whole plant becomes mite-proof.

I buy it off some Ebay guy, a couple oz at a time. Only take 1ml per gallon so it lasts a good while. Prepared sprays only good for 2 days though.
 

NLR

New member
Hi All

I posted my grow problems here but I'm curious what will help with these big ol flies that I think are eating my plants?
 

Sam_Skunkman

"RESIN BREEDER"
Moderator
I would never spray a plant to be flowered, instead spray small mothers and then when clean cut them up into small clones. Dips work better then sprays and are safer to do. Use a mask and gloves and a spray suit if you are smart. I isolate and dip any new clone 3 times, a week apart with very small clones, to make it easy. FloraMite works, but be careful if you use it.


Here is what I use:

Phytoseluls persimilis PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
Target: MITES No good for short photoperiod. Use them a lot before darkening.
They stop eating hunting and eating prey under 12 hours of light.

Amblyseius Californicus PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
Target: MITES & THRIPS works at higher temps and lower humidity then Phytoseluls persimilis No diapause so effective at 12 hours light.

Macrolophus caliginosus PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
Target: Mites, Whiteflys, Aphids, Thrips

Feltiella acarisuga CURE ONLY, adults FLY/ larva SLITHER
Best against big populations of MITES, larva do the killing

Amblyseius cucumeris PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
Target: THRIPS & MITES (get without bran mites added for food)
No Diapause effective under 12 hours, good to use with Phytoseluls persimilis

Stethorus punctillum, Prevent & Cure, they CRAWL the young Larva eat eggs, the older larva eat eggs and mites, adults eat both at a lesser rate. A type of Lady Bug.
Target: MITES

Other effective predator mites include:

Phytoseiulus longipes

Amblyseius fallacis

Galendromus occidentalis


-SamS
 
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joe fresh

Active member
Mentor
does anyone not use high levels of co2 to kill mites? i have heard that if you crank it up to 10-20000ppm for a few hours it will kill all bugs in the room.

i was advised by someone who has a degree in botany and runs comercial greenhouses(not MJ) that co2 is the way to go.

he said the way they do it is 3 times a day for 3 hours each raise co2 to 10000ppm+ and keep it at those levels for 3 hours, and repeat this 3 times a day......repeat this process for 3 days, every other day.

what do you guys think about using co2 to kill mites?



for me filling up 100 lbs of co2 is easier than using sprays, and imo less harmfull than using sprays and less messy than using predators....
 

HorseMouth

Member
Does the product 'PURESpray Green' OMRI approved (Which is 98% petroleum oil) work at all? I keep seeing it the stores and was wondering. Does this break down the mite outer skele?

Also, In my OD I use this product, which I love! I mix it right into the soil in the early spring when I'm prepping with the rest of the goodies.




Peace!
 

Kakkoii

Member
Anyone know if spidermites will survive in the sealed jar you put your bud in?

I'd like to know, because I'm in flowering and have spidermites on my plants. I've managed to keep them at bay by inspecting the leaves, wiping them and spraying them with water and sometimes alcohol. So I have no webbing or anything. So I'd like to know if once I harvest my bud and seal them in a jar, will it kill off any remaining mites on the bud? Or will I end up with eaten up, web encased buds in a jar?

Thanks.


Edit:
I think I have a good idea. I read that spidermites, like most living things cannot survive in a mostly Co2 environment. So perhaps I should get some canned Co2 and spray it in the jar and close it up quickly. Killing off anything living inside...
 
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