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Blue-adepts DIY SuperStealth tubs + pics

Blue_adept

Active member
ekg- yes, you need to cut two square holes in the tubs to allow outside air to enter the grow chamber through the light traps. The point of the traps is that air can flow in freely, but light cannot, that way we maintain a dark period without light leaks. I will get a better pic this week for you when I take a new plant pic.

BA
 

Blue_adept

Active member
Okay, do they let out the smell? Thank you or all your help through the guides and posts!

No smell is let out because the draw fans in the top (the two that pull through carbon) keep the grow chamber at a negative pressure. The light traps just allow air in at whatever the fan airflow is.

BA
 

ekglag2

New member
Oh okay, that makes sense.

Also, you didn't explain the power supply and fan connections much. I assume the fans connect to the power supply, and then it needs modifying to run without a pc. Do you have any good tutorial sites you could recommend I visit? I found a few but I want to make sure its working right for this specific use lol
 

Blue_adept

Active member
The 20 or 24 pin connector on a standard power supply has a green wire just above the batch of grounds. If you put a jumper between this green wire and one of the black ground pins then the power supply will power all the 3v/5v/12v rails whenever the switch is on/it is plugged in.

BA
 

ekglag2

New member
Thanks, I got that part up and running. Sorry for all my questions but I have another few. Is the 5th fan in your setup the one from inside your power supply? If it is then why do you have the vent from the power supply opened into your light box? My power supply has a vent but the Ac power cord an power switch are on the same side so could I use a 90* pvc pipe elbow to connect it to the light box?
 

highocaine

New member
Thanks, I got that part up and running. Sorry for all my questions but I have another few. Is the 5th fan in your setup the one from inside your power supply? If it is then why do you have the vent from the power supply opened into your light box? My power supply has a vent but the Ac power cord an power switch are on the same side so could I use a 90* pvc pipe elbow to connect it to the light box?

You want the hot air (usually comes out the same side of the PSU as the switch/IEC 60320 C13 socket:
100px-IEC_60320_C13.svg.png
)
to exit the top cab immediately (through the 120mm clear fans as seen in:

27457top6.jpg

). The PSU is situated over one of the holes out of the light chamber, and as such the hot air rises up and out the vent and through the fan. So I don't really know what you mean about 90*
 

ekglag2

New member
Well it states we need two 80mm fans and two 120mm fans and the final product has three 80mm fans so I thought that the third fan was from inside the power supply. If thats the case then wouldn't there be nothing pulling the air out of the light box? By 90* I meant that since my vent is on the same side of my power supply as the power switch and C13 socket I can't just cut out the hole and put my power supply down like blue_adept did without also cutting space for the power cord and power switch to enter the light box(which of course I don't want to do) so I wanted to know if I could cut the hole next to my power supply instead of under it and use a 90*(90 degree) pvc pipe elbow to connect the hole to the vent in my power supply for the same effect.
 

Blue_adept

Active member
I may have listed an incorrect amount of fans then, I will go back and reread the original write up. Somewhere in there I comment about how the power supply I used had an 80mm built into the bottom as well as the fan on the back, so I used it as the light box extraction fan. In total, to copy my build, you would need:

2x 120mm for the top tub vents
2x 80mm for the grow chamber carbon stacks
1x 80mm light box intake fan
1x light box extraction fan- if this isn't in your PS as mine was, then you will need another fan.

There should be more than enough room in the top tub to put the power supply in a different position, and use an 80mm fan as the light box extractor. If you go this route, I would add an elbow or deflector to direct the hot air toward the 120mm exhaust fans.

BA

edit* Just looked, I did say "2 80mm fans" in the first post, it should have said "3-4 80mm fans"
 

dontstepongrass

M.U.R.D.A. / FMB crew
Veteran
just finished contruction on mine... was kinda pain in the ass at times, but in the end it was worth it. shit is snazzy... i went without the pc power supply tho, just used another 80 mm fan. also substituted cardboard instead of sheet metal for light traps...

5 chem sis x mango/haze beans popped.

thinking about running this tub as a soil bed...
 

strojny85

New member
help

help

VB- you can see the wires in parallel in the pic i posted just a few posts up. I did the same on both sides, then ran them up through a hole in the board there into the top tub. A generic plug end attached to my 2 wires finished the job.

BA

what two wires did you attach them to did you do the green and black to run the fans and then how did you tie in the lights to what wires please help i got it all done but can not find the info on wiring on the web please
 

strojny85

New member
looks like you using soft lights instead of daylight is that right? Also, I was just wondering how you got the humidity right. I just finished mine and i can't seem to keep the temp or the humidity right I used 50 gal tubs and also got actual carbon charcoal filters from my hydro store 104 a piece I went all out on mine and bought all the stuff that I needed to complete this sweet ass box, If you can help me get these kinks out I would greatly appreciate it. I used 92 mm fans on my filters instead of 80 mm as well. PLEASE HELP OUT. THANK YOU.
 

earthwyrms

Active member
120mm fans seems to have all around better sound and static pressure ratings in the different manufacturers.
noctua seems to make the most silent fans that still keep good static pressure ratings.
there is even a 180mm fan by silverstone called the SST-AP182 which can get 6.1mmH2O (2000rpm) but is probably very loud, as when it runs 2.45mmH2O (1200rpm), the loudness is 34dBA (1200rpm) (the dBA isnt listed for the 2000rpm).

there are 12V power supplys that can be bought on ebay that can be used to power the fans

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/reference/chpt-2/wiring-color-codes/

^^^has A/C and D/C line colors (be sure to read the lower part where it lists DC for Canada, IEC, and US, International Electrotechnical Commision is what i think IEC stands for, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Electrotechnical_Commission, of which the US and Canada are also in)

noctua fans can be run at higher Amperage but not Voltage. 13V and more is harmful to the fans.
the NF-P12 gets 19,8 dB(A) when run at 0.09A and gives 92,3 m³/h with 1,68 mm H2O static pressure. it runs on 12V and is 1.08W.
their PWM model runs on even less energy with the same data. the difference is it uses 0.6W at 12V 0.05A
if one is looking to go by the exact specifications, 50mA can be multiplied easier into common charger outputs. like a 500mA 12V charger can run 500/50, 10 fans at exact specifications. 0.09A doesn't fit as easy but as long as it is 12V it will still work, and be louder or quieter.
the noctua NF-P12 at 100mA (0.01A) is significantly more quiet than a 120mm Deepcool fan (from a CPU radiator) running on the same charger.
stacking fans (series) gives more pressure, while side by side (parallel) gives them more airflow (m³/h)

92.3m³/h is 54.325729 (cubic feet) per minute (CFM)
i am guessing static pressure is the most important part of a scrubbing fan, as a rubbermaid bin build is maybe well under that number and plants maybe don't breath that fast.

i was wondering about if the intake was ducted to the bottom so the underlying bins can not have holes in them. it would take up some space though and if a round to flat duct transition is made, it would probably reduce airflow, but with tinkering it might be good.

in teory these could keep being stacked and get tall sativas to grow in increments (of bin height).

if the bin is LDPE and/or HDPE it can be welded with a soldering tool (it will get the tool dirty, but there are replacement tips). the smoke is horrible so outdoors or ventilation helps out alot as do goggles and avoiding the plume.

the benifit is the plastic can be cut to any path/hole, even LDPE to HDPE bonds can be made when they are molten and mixed together

(like when melting the LDPE bin tops to the HDPE bottoms instead of tack welding [rubbermaids are LDPE tops in 10, 18gal and HDPE bins, the 3gal are all LDPE])

theoretically, a real longflowering sativa could grow tall using a stack of rubbermaid bins as the grow advanced (although the stretch can be minimized supposedly, and there are people on the forum who grew sativas in micro by training them [also colder nights than days reduces stretch], i believe keeping the light closer reduces stretch though i have to re-search again).

if using LEDs COBs (Chips On Board) the chip can be fixed to a CPU cooler and the radiator with the fan on it can be kept out of the box, lessening the boxes temperature.
 

earthwyrms

Active member
Audio Decible Chart of Noises

Audio Decible Chart of Noises

http://www.noisehelp.com/noise-level-chart.html

decible scale in common noises

thats why i write noctua data alot, i looked into them for stealth. the Deepcool that was on a CPUcooler radiator was louder than expected at the recommended 100mA. i was hoping for quieter, under rustling leaves 20dBa.
the [FONT=&quot] air pressure of the fan on DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 300 is 2.03 mmH₂O.
the air pressure of the fan on Noctua NF-P12 is 1.98 mmH2O.
the Noctua is quieter by far at the same 100mA i tested on it.
the Noctua can be swapped onto the Deepcool radiator using the same clips with same fiddling.
[/FONT]
 

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