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16 kW x coco

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MedGuy510

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75 posts until PM priveledges...sigh. Anyways, what brand/type of coco do you use and how do you treat it before putting it into bags?

It is pretty airy seeming stuff, is that one of the reasons why you have such an explosion of growth?
 

MedGuy510

Member
And are the screens above the canopy to prevent weighty buds from falling to the floor?

(sorry, trying to get 75 posts)
 
What ratio are you using to cut your coco with perlite?
(in the grow bags in some of your early pics)

I use 1:1 myself, and I'm always interested in what others use and their reasons for doing so.
Are you using Foxfarm chunky? I love that stuff, but I mix it 1:1 with std. course perlite to increase variability in the size of the aggregate in my rooting media. Cheaper that way too :D.

By the way, do you recycle your medium?
 
JustanotherDave, storage.
I wish you the best. I really do:)

But in my part of the world...the Fire Inspector has the last word. They come in knowing the floor plan of the space. Their job is simple...check clearance of doors and windows...maybe sprinklers and shit.
But if they walk in and the floor plan is all new...they'll want to see inside.

Just sayin'.....
 

MedGuy510

Member
In my part of the world, they only check your space to sign off on your business permit when you first accquire the space.
 

RedReign

Active member
In SoCal, if the space is not an 'official' business and is not open to the public, you don't have to worry about permits, inspections, etc.

Aside from my current space, I have leased 3 other spaces, for a total of about 7 years. All 3 were legit businesses that were open to the public. I paid for my business permits and never had any other contact with the city, inspections, or anything else.

If anyone is still worried about it, go to your local city clerk, tell them you want to rent a space for storage and ask if you need to file any paperwork with the city or get an inspection. They will tell you that you don't need to do anything.


Great work, Microgro
 
M

micro gro

Thanks all for the kind comments.

deckboy1982, in short I'd say it means "looks and feels like it wasn't built by a stoner". :D

RedReign, thanks, much appreciated and means a lot especially coming from you; you're on the short list of people who have heavily influenced, inspired, or otherwise motivated me to step up my game. :respect:

MedGuy510, that's how we believe it to work, as well.

JustanotherDave, thanks for the concern and the information.

Philosophelon, roughly a 1:1 ratio, slightly more coco than perlite. Coco can be reused, but I don't.
 
Philosophelon, roughly a 1:1 ratio, slightly more coco than perlite. Coco can be reused, but I don't.

A man after my own heart, lol. I run dtw drippers in coco for low maintenance (and high performance) -- if I were to recycle the coco, it would ruin my low-maintenance thing :D.
 

rambam

Member
What a great thread this is turning out to be. Lots of great questions and answers. micro gro, since you have joist spans as wide as 18' in your square flowering room, what is the size of your joists? 2x8 or 2x10? And what is your inter-joist spacing? 16" or 24"? Are they covered with plywood on top? I'm assuming you had to walk around up there to install the ducting and roof (if you finished the top that way), and it looked to me like 2x8's from the photos, so I wanted to ask, since I didn't think they could hold weight at that great a span (18' - although most of the other rooms are much less wide).
 
M

micro gro

Philosophelon, I agree, top drip DTW is extremely easy and low-maintenance IME. I've sold other people on this system and they also seem to agree so far.

mikeoldschool, thanks.

rambam, I'm also pleased with the results of this thread.

The joists are 2x6x20 :)yoinks:), spaced 24" OC. No plywood, or other coverings on top, only and braced only down the edges and the center. I've walked / climbed / hung from there many times, and currently the ceiling of each room houses 8 magnetic ballasts, sitting on 2x8's and secured with plumber's strap/tape. Ballast outlets (240v) are also located on the ceiling.

I can tell you that 2x4's definitely would have been too weak, and 2x6's are probably below code for such a span but I wouldn't know. It isn't really a load-bearing ceiling. Except for the ballasts I guess.
 

Organic O

New member
What are the peak temps in the room?
I'm planning on using 8k in a flower room and another 2k in veg room. What tonnage A/C should I use.
 
M

micro gro

Organic O, 82F.

8k non-aircooled? Obviously depends on your ambient temperature / environment so your mileage may vary, but I think 3 1/2 tons will be plenty without air cooled lights. If air-cooled, I'd think a 1 1/2 tons should do it.
 

Organic O

New member
Thanks, I'm curently using several waterfarm kits for my setup, but I see a need to change.
I see that the water stays stagnet and I'm trying to come up with a system like yours.
At first I was planning on using 5 gal buckets, but after seeing with you have I might try it out.
The only concern is I want to veg my plants for at least 4 weeks.
 

Organic O

New member
my last grow was 40 units plants veged for 6 weeks under 4k and the result was 8
I would rather have less and bigger plants. Would this system work?
My next setup would be 8k non-aircooled with a propane gen
 
M

micro gro

I can tell you a little bit about WaterFarms, I'm no stranger to them. The key to successfully running a WaterFarm system is to modify it for active recirculation (simple: submersible pump in controller, feeds into each bucket).

Not sure what size pots you'll want to use with 4 week veg in coco (and with what strain you have, etc), but I'm going to guess that 5 gallons will be enough. Maybe someone with actual experience can chime in on container size for large plants, maybe 7+ gallons will have an impact? All I can say is check out asher1er's threads, and maybe see if BlindDate has any input. I know those guys grow coco trees.

I know that with these current strains, 4 week veg will result in plants that will likely need 3+ lights to cover. Personally like higher # of crops per year, etc...
 
M

micro gro

Dual zone damper system

Dual zone damper system

Gonna build the dual-zone system using motorized dampers (normally closed, 14") and a static pressure relief valve.

The A/C will be wired to run 24/7, and a Sentinel CHHC-1 will now take over the duties of the thermostat. Instead of controlling the A/C cycling, it will simply open / close a set of dampers as cooling is needed.

Motorized damper:



Pressure relief:



24VAC transformer mounted on left:



Some plant material:

 
Y

YosemiteSam

Interesting move with the air conditioner. Is there no thermostat control now or am I misunderstanding something? What if both rooms are cool enough, or a little lower than what you like?

Love the trim job on the plants. I assume it is based on past experience with these strains...just remove anything that isn't going to be part of one big cola?

Also, I know it isn't the main thing having to do with yield...but can you explain your use of pk boosters? And I am guessing that is strain specific and based on experimentation...but how did you go about dialing it in for your strains, where did you start?

Thank you for your patience in answering questions and sharing this grow with us.
 
M

micro gro

One air handler, two rooms. There is thermostat control now, but since we need CO2 the Sentinel CHHC-1 will be wired to a 120v coil SPST relay tied to a 24VAC power source to switch the dampers. Plus, Honeywell (and other similar) thermostats suck in how they are limited to a maximum of N cycles per hour, typically 6 meaning 5 minute on/off cycles (5 off, 5 on x 6 = 60 minutes/1 hour). The CHHC-1 has no such limitation, the deadband will be set to 1F (if 0.5F is not possible). The pressure relief valve takes care of "what if both rooms' dampers are closed?" We're a step ahead of your average stoner. :D

On P/K boosters... yes it can help, if used correctly; but there are many more ways it can hurt your yields, as I've learned through trial and error. The only advice I can give you is to keep your nutrient feeding program simple until you understand each component and additive's function and effect. This usually means "with and without" (or better yet, side-by-side) testing to see how a plant reacts.

We've experimented with Kool Bloom powder with mixed results and feelings at times, and at this moment it's discontinued from our feeding program until further future testing on a small scale. For now it's just the liquid. As far as dialing in, started out with 3mL/gal addition at about 21 days in.
 
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