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Your best yeild improving "tricks"!!??!

Aspie huh... I guess that means you pay attention to detail!

So, we've read a lot here about nutrition schedule and various types of topping and plant manipulation,

How about lighting?

Are there any lighting "tricks" people are using? MH along with HPS? Fluros with HPS? Light cycling?? Light timing? For example I do 13 hours of light with 11 hours darkness, the closer to harvest I get I'll gradually get the lights to a 12/12 ratio.
 

acidfire

Active member
In no particular order:

Genetics
Light intensity*
Temps / Humidity in the correct range
Fresh air
CO2
Dialed in nutes
Light movers

*Remember, that light diminishes at an incredible rate. Think about getting some air cooled hoods so u can lower your lights.

Hope this helps.
 

d4twamp

Member
When it comes to lighting indoors, for the best yield in my opinion would have to be with Vertical HPS...Fewer numbers of larger plants....With enough vertical lighting, and a dialed in room/system, I believe you can get yields comparable to some outdoor harvests I've seen...
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Aspie huh... I guess that means you pay attention to detail!

So, we've read a lot here about nutrition schedule and various types of topping and plant manipulation,

How about lighting?

Are there any lighting "tricks" people are using? MH along with HPS? Fluros with HPS? Light cycling?? Light timing? For example I do 13 hours of light with 11 hours darkness, the closer to harvest I get I'll gradually get the lights to a 12/12 ratio.

Depends on the subject :D

Right off the bat, I would say that I would do the opposite of what you're doing. 12/12 until fully into flower (say 30 days) and then gradually increase to 13 or 13.5 hrs of light a day. I guess it all depends on the strain and situation.

If you have a programmable digital timer that can handle it (or the ability to track stuff like this) I've read of ways to speed up the flower time, allowing more crop cycles.

Essentially flower at 10/12 with a full day of 24hr dark each week. Cycles the plant through maturity faster, though the weight lacks a bit. The only way this really works though is if you have a large setup and can get in a full extra crop per season.

No, haven't done it personally. :)
 

Haps

stone fool
Veteran
OK, Lights first, from running the same clones multiple crops, and that cycle several times, [about 40 crops in the last 20 seasons], and observing results, new light bulbs always give the best crops. Some HPS can be great for a year, but not all, and MH drops big after 6 months, more like 9 for hps, so I just change them at 6. Just bought a cheap light meter to play with this year to learn more.

Clones, I slow clone, slow long cycle my crops, so a clone I put into bloom is months old, and topped back to a foot to 18 inches. Then I veg them in the bloom room for a week to 10 days to aclimate them and pump up their metabolism, while I convert them from DWC to the tidal flow of my e&f buckets. And again, this is a best-practices based on results.

HS, I respect your position on the Lucas ratio, and believe that you believe what you are preaching. I ran the first couple years with no calmag, some strains finish fine without it, but almost all will do better with it, and I smoke my own herb to test my results. My opinion based only on my own trials and errors, is that Lucas ratio is a starting point only. I run FNB/FLB at the Lucas ratio, plus calmag, and a bump of fulvic, and my girls are all finer for it, based on my results before I added the last two. Not saying I'm right, not saying you are wrong, just what is real here.

H
 

Row

Member
Super healthy plants from Clone to Harvest, is No1

Sealed room is no2

Cut healthy clones, root them fast and well, keeping them perky,

Veg them with plenty of light in a perfect environment, this is a big factor imo, people neglect there veg room and have a super flower room. You dont necessarily have to have a sealed co2 enriched veg room, though that would rock, but you do need

perfect temperature Day and NIGHT, 78 day 73 night, this is presuming no co2. Another factor neglected by many from what i see, letting your room drop to 65 at night may be the limit but keeping it at 73 at night will show you a world of difference.

Sealing the flower room effectively doubled my yield, from 1lb-1.2lb per to 2lb per, though im sure i could have gotten the non sealed room yeild up a bit with various improvements /dialing, mainly keeping the co2 in by removing as much heat producing things from the room, eg ballasts, and thus having the out fan run less and venting less co2.

When they move to flower give them 7 - 10 days in the super room, the same is also true, Perfect ENVIRONMENT, preferably a sealed room with Co2, a Temp of 80 - 85 depending on the stage and level of co2, break them in slowly.

Minimal swings in day temps, and never dropping below 73 at night.

Keeping as even a canopy as possible helps alot, though can be hard during the stretch, super cropping works well, just bend those taking over instead of raising the light for 2 plants. Topping fiming bending in veg etc helps keep it even to.

Efficiently placed plants, no huge light gaps that you could squeeze a few plants into, even if they yield less than the main group its something.

Not sure if i can say 100% yet if this increases yield per say, but i can say for sure that the plants look way healthier and that says allot, Veging under and growing up till week 2 - 3 with MH and then swapping to HPS, from experience i can say for sure that when growing leaves use MH and when growing Bud use HPS. The leaf growth under MH is by far healthier looking so when the plants are stretching use MH. Not sure about the whole closer inter nodes etc, maybe the plants stretch less due to the spectrum but the hps also give off more lumens so that may way out.

A million other small factors, Nutes, water temp, new bulbs, pruning all the popcorn lower stuff off at the right time, some before flower, some week 1 some beginning week 3 works best for me.

Ill try and find a pic of the whole mh vs hps till week 3 thing, i know the last crop was when i started trying it, put some mh in and noticed such a difference under the mh the whole room is MH till week 3 now.
 

Row

Member
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Dosnt really do it justice, but if you are there with the planst you can really see the difference.
 

DontBeEvil

New member
make cuttings, scrog long lime, give your plants as much nutes as they can take... ideal air/water temps, 50% humidity, proper ventilation and your golden :) get the light as close as it can get without burning it.

as for strains, white widow and big bud (duh) are some good yielders, theres tons of genetics out there that are hearty and yield well.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
HS, I respect your position on the Lucas ratio, and believe that you believe what you are preaching. I ran the first couple years with no calmag, some strains finish fine without it, but almost all will do better with it, and I smoke my own herb to test my results. My opinion based only on my own trials and errors, is that Lucas ratio is a starting point only. I run FNB/FLB at the Lucas ratio, plus calmag, and a bump of fulvic, and my girls are all finer for it, based on my results before I added the last two. Not saying I'm right, not saying you are wrong, just what is real here.
Glad to hear you've got your stuff dialed in Haps.

If everyone had your experience, I'd definitely change my tune :)
For the rest of us, our crops will definitely do better sticking to the formula. :D

I'm definitely looking forward to reaching a level of understanding that would allow me to work with additives properly. :)
 
M

moses224

i went from 2 zip pp to over 4 when i extended veg to 60 it works great. I clone while my plant is in first week of flower. Then they veg by second grow your plants will be vegging as long as there sisters flower 60 plus days now i neever pull less then 4
 

mpd

Lammen Gorthaur
Veteran
Using Krusty's trick to veg for 21 days, flower for 21 days, then cut them back and veg for 21 more days before letting them go the distance. If you are looking for yield, this will help you get it there.

Forking buds is the other trick I have learned. Not all strains will do it, but for those that will (it seems like the widow strains and bubblegum are great candidates) forking the buds, doubles up your bud count in the canopy, giving you an excellent opportunity to maximize production.

Finally, keep pumping nutes into the plants until you cut them and water cure the harvest. I know people will say it spoils the taste, it certainly mutes it to be sure, but if you are seeking to maximize production, then water cure the stuff and convert it all to high-grade hash, oil or hard candy. That would help squeeze out some more production.
 
M

moses224

must have missed that thread , saw article in high times about a guy growing grape ape who did similiar.,,,.kicker is room couldn't be perpetual unless room was partitioned
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Another important thing i did not see mention, need to be continually being pest free.


Great read everyone. im interested in that 21 veg-21flower-21veg-then flower again. Had a similar experience , buds got 2 dense, got some pm late bloom even with my dehumidifier set at 35-40. they where to compact.

anycase, great read. gonna keep an eye on this one.


B-safe
 
Using Krusty's trick to veg for 21 days, flower for 21 days, then cut them back and veg for 21 more days before letting them go the distance. If you are looking for yield, this will help you get it there.

Forking buds is the other trick I have learned. Not all strains will do it, but for those that will (it seems like the widow strains and bubblegum are great candidates) forking the buds, doubles up your bud count in the canopy, giving you an excellent opportunity to maximize production.

Finally, keep pumping nutes into the plants until you cut them and water cure the harvest. I know people will say it spoils the taste, it certainly mutes it to be sure, but if you are seeking to maximize production, then water cure the stuff and convert it all to high-grade hash, oil or hard candy. That would help squeeze out some more production.



Now that's really interesting. I always take my clones 3 weeks into flower because they produce more large colas (the effect of cutting 3 weeks into flower is that the cutting produces a bush, similar to topping). So.. I don't doubt that the technique produces decent results. A very interesting concept indeed.
 

mpd

Lammen Gorthaur
Veteran
must have missed that thread , saw article in high times about a guy growing grape ape who did similiar.,,,.kicker is room couldn't be perpetual unless room was partitioned

The krusty trick was a thread on OG.

Forking the buds is something I reported on for Cannabis Compassion Corner's (www.compassioncorner.org) medical club grow book. I forgot to mention that when the forking occurs you have to use 1/8" copper tubing to make sure the buds grow at right angles to one another or you end up with an elevated risk of bud mold.

Running the nutes all the way and then water curing is my little domain. Water curing makes what I call the "apparent potency" double for your weed (i.e.: four hit weed becomes two hit weed, two hit weed becomes one hit weed and one hit weed becomes a trip to the emergency room).

I hope it helps you out. All of these techniques are proven winners for cultivation.
 

rave420

Member
hey hydro. Would you guys say that 14 to 20 day vegging would increase yield the yield 200%?

of course not, silly you....
But i get your point. Saying that veging the plant 10 days more increases the yield means that the yield you're comparing to must come from a prematurely flowered plant.

For example, grow 2 plants in same container, same conditions everything. Then you flower one after 2 days of veg and one after 10 days of veg. Plant one will yield 3.5g and plant 2 will yield 10 grams. In that case you can't say that vegging the plant longer improved your yield. The 3.5g that were harvested were the results of a premature plant.

If you want to pull the best yield of the plant you need to let it grow to full potential before flowering. Most people do that by training the plant, because that process usually takes at least 4 - 6 weeks in veg. During that time, the plant matures, prepares for reproduction and reaches it 's full potential.
 

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