you know anything about wire up a ballast to 220v?

[00420]

i got 3 ballast on ebay 1 says 110v and the other 2 say 240v.
im gussing that 220 &240 are some what the same?
all 3 have 220v plug and i opened them up and are wired the same so my guess is the 110v is really a 240v..

now my ? is the way there wired dont seem right to me..
3 wire's
green:go's to the case and the green wire to the hood
white: go's to the com (of the ballast)
black: go's to the 240v wire ( on the ballast)

there is no wire on the 110v wire on the ballast.
is this right?

 

[tokeAcola]

Oh! Woops, no that's not right, lol I had to edit. sorry for the confusion, my post below is correct. Sorry for the mix up!

It's a good idea to put a ring of black tape around the white wire to indicate that it's being used as a line wire and not a neutral. Just a tip.

-- tAc

 

[Forest20]

There is a great info on OG i don't have the link but check the FAQ

 

[00420]

so to run 110v

i would have
white to the com wire
black to the 110vwire
and green where it is?


my understanding of the 220v was 2 110v..

one to the 110v and one to the 220v and green go's to com for a return......


thx for the help.......

 

[tokeAcola]

for 220v: (or 240, 230, whatever you wanna call it)

black - to the wire that is labled "240"
white - to the wired labled "com"
green - connected to the ballast housing, or bare copper wire from the ballast housing.

for 120v:

black - to "120"
white - to "com"
green - connected to the ballast housing or bare copper wire


Note that in household 240v wiring (double phase), both the white wire and the black wire will be carrying 120v from the breaker panel.

-- tAc

 

[00420]

thx toka........just wanted to make sure it was right...

i seen a 110v going to com and it was ringing a doorbell...
so i had to make sure

peace brother's

 

[tokeAcola]

no prob, 004!

Are you going to wire it for 120, or for 240?

In the breaker panel:

If it's for 240v, both the white and the black wires need to be connected to a "double pole" breaker. The green wire should be connected to the ground bus.
If it's for 120v, the black wire goes to a "single pole" breaker, white to the neutral bus bar and the green to the ground bar. In some breaker panels, neutral wires and ground wires share a bus bar.


-- tAc

 

[tokeAcola]

lol, that's ok, mybeans! I saw your post and agreed! Damn. I had to go back and edit. Damn eyes are playin' tricks on me (just got off work), lol

-- tAc

 

[mybeans420]

theres been alot of electric related questions today

 

[00420]

haha....the first to post i was like what the hell....lol

so i had to ask again


the 3 are 240 all ready im gonna leave them that way...

and make my other 3 240v(220v) as well......

and build this timer (2) for them im gonna use one timer for both and run 3 light's on each!

http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp

thx again guys!

just so i got it right...

110v go's to com (ballast) pole 1
110v go's to the 240 wire pole 2
and green gos to the case/hood ground bus
neutral wires and ground wires share a bus bar in my set up

i thought the ballast needed a neutral as well.
(is this what the green dose)
hows this get a return? i thought that was what the com was?
but i guess the case touching the ballast dose it just fine
i dont wanna get shocked touching the case...lol

 

[tokeAcola]

Yep! That's right. Again! lol

In double phase 240v, the green is the return pathway and also the "ground".

Can't wait to see what your setup looks like with all that wattage!

-- tAc

 

[mybeans420]

damn thats a cool timer idea 00420

i'm gonna have to try that out sometime.
so are you running 1000watters on it?

 

[00420]

i have no clue what double phase or triple phase is...lol

iv hear about them.....


yeah i like that timer to bean's.....im gonna customize it a lil to make it cheaper..... i will post as i do it if i ever get any more pic space....lol

and yes 1000's.. 6 of them..... i have 7... but let my bro use it

he let me use hiz the lastcrop and tell i got the ones i just got.
he'z running 4000....all on 110v.....he ran 110 line for each

i want to do 2 220v line much easyer ..... i see him have prob's lineing all the timers up and shit like that....

so all get mine done and help him with his...
( hell shit when he see's what ido)
you guys now more then himm...lol peace and thx again guyssssssssssssssss

 

[JustATry]

For a brief explanation, 2 phase is basically what you are working with now. Two "hots" so 220V.

Three phase has three "hots", but it's a little bit more complicated than that. Three phase is 208V but it's cleaner and more consistent power.

Just FYI.

 

[00420]

thx justatry


i know i dont have it...lool

 

[00420]

allright stuped ?...

allright stuped ?...

k i got 10/3 cable ran 20 feet....for a main power supply...

im going with 3-1000w light on it 220v .....should be fine its a 30amp line and 3-1000w light on 220v is 15amp's.(or close enuff)



now my ? is this. can i run 14/3 from my relay to the light's.
in here it says yes but.....it says sjo wire ?????????????
"4 feet of 14/3 SJO wire, more if you want to have the ballasts far from the power source."

http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp

so again can i run 14/3 wire to this that is not sjo wire???and use my reg 14/3 "120v" wire just from the load on the relay to the plugs,witch is going to be about 3-4 feet at max!
(more like 1-2 feet)

thx guys.....

 

[tokeAcola]

Hey, 004.


Type “S” - Heavy duty, rubber insulated, portable cord. Stranded copper conductors with individual rubber insulation. 600 volt rating.

Type “SJ” - Same as “S” but rated at 300 volts because of less insulation.

Type “SJO” - Same as SJ but with an oil resistant outer jacket instead of the rubber.

Type “SJT” - Same as SJ but with a thermoplastic (vinyl) outer jacket. Generally not as flexible.

Type “SJTOW” - Same as SJT but with an oil resistant outer jacket and rated for oudoor use.


14 gauge wire should be fine to run to each light from the relay. 1000w / 240v = 4.16666 amps. 14 gauge wire is rated for 15 amps. Safe capacity of 80% is 12 amps.

You probably aren't using stranded copper wire. Solid wire will be ok as long as you aren't going to move it after you install it. Moving solid wired around will cause it to crack and short out. Stranded wire would be alot better IMO because you could move it around as you needed to.


Hope this helps a little.


-- tAc


__________________

 

[00420]

oh toka......

oh toka......

i was gonna ask you but thought id give everyone a chance....lol

thats what i thought was it was rated for 15amp.... but i was not sure of the volt rating.........on the 14/3 wire..as you make it sound it should be rated up to 300 no matter what?

so as long as i keep the amp's under 12 (it will be 5 max im only running one light per plug/wire ) it will be fine all have pix to night.
got to wait for the light to turn on...........i got most of what i need.

 

[tokeAcola]

Hey, 004.

Sounds like you're good to go..... except.....

What kind of wire are you using? NM-B "romex"?

Using stranded would be MUCH better IMHO. Solid wire is really for permanent applications. Kinda like when you bend a coat hanger back and forth, the copper inside the wire will break and become dangerous. Stranded wire can withstand alot more abuse than solid wire. You can buy wire by the foot at most home improvement / hardware stores.

Oh, by the way, the voltage rating of the wire will be printed on the wire itself and also on the box, or packaging. Wire rated for 600v is what I would reccommend.

-- tAc

 

[00420]

it will be permanent so im not worryed about that....
also no its not "romex"....it's

"nexans type mc 600 v for ct use 12 awg thhn (ul)"
/\ this is what the wire say's/\


i had to open it up ....so now that i know it is 600v & 12g not 14..

there should be know worry's?.......lol
here's a pic of it

also here is the plugs & holders that im use in.....

i did not like how the ones on the web site was i want permanent.
and this will look much nicer.....