bushdoctor215
Member
Amen uncle Rico!
WHY DOESN'T ANYONE KNOW ABOUT THIS STUFF????
- Thread starter cannabisology
- Start date
decent thread, thanks for the info, here is some (altho off topic) great info about some popular additives:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=4780815#post4780815
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=4780815#post4780815
im not a medical person, nor am i too hip with chemistry, but isn't silicone what causes silicosis if it enters the lung? i was wondering if this shit is in plants, when smoked, will the silicone become trapped in the lungs and cause silicosis?
this may be far fetched, but has me wondering.
this may be far fetched, but has me wondering.
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TREE KING
Homebrewer whats up! yup it was your thread i was talking about. im not gonna blame it on dyna gro but after i switched i started noticing deficiencies a couple days later. i had to switch back to sensi 2 part immediately so my crop didnt get more damaged. i already have the 2 part dialed in you know. i got double strawberry diesel going in veg right now. they can barely handle any nutes so ive been keeping them at 200 tds/.4 ec with the 2 part. then when i switched to dyna grow i put 1 ml a gal of grow and the rest bloom to make the same tds of 200 because i was shortly about to change the light cycle to 12/12. a couple days later i noticed plants yellowing and also leaves were turning brownish/ yellow with brown spots on them. i figured since plants were yellowing then they werent getting enough nutes because i figured dyna had less nitrogen in it so i slowly kept uping the nutes to 500 tds but saw no improvement. when i saw that the plants were getting worse i then changed the res and put my 2 part back in at 200 tds where i know they stay healthy at.
Homebrewer, do you have any idea where i went wrong? i cant explain it. another thing i noticed is in my mother room i keep my blubonics at 200 tds with an. i changed out the res to switch to dyna gro-grow only at the same tds and a day later i started noticing tip burn. it then hit me that i think dyna gro is extremely strong but at the same time usually when the nutes are too strong the plant gets darker not lighter. why in the hell would those double strawberry diesels be turning light green with browning spots if the nutes were too strong? the only thing i can think of is that plants show different signs of over fertilizing with dyna that they do with an? i dont know thats the only thing i can think of, what do you think? i can only switch back to dyna gro if i have a good idea of what i did wrong
Correct me if I'm wrong but did you say you were using a mixture of grow and bloom in the veg cycle? Grow and protekt is all I use in veg at about .7 EC. The only time I mix grow and bloom is in the flowering period.
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TREE KING
sorry to confuse you but i just added alot more info to my last post if you could please read it. yes i did that because i was about to switch to 12/12 any day. before that i was using 2 part bloom and had no problem in veg and i did that for the same reasons. it takes plants a little while to start flowering after you change the cycle so theres no reason why a mix of grow and bloom should show deficiencies 1-2 days later.
.4 EC is what my tap water comes out at, hence why I use RO. That's half of what I feed freshly rooted cuttings in rockwool and I consider myself a light feeder. Even during the first 4 weeks of flower, I still would do something like 50/50 grow and bloom. In veg, I'd recommend against using anything proportionately high in phosphorus and I'd recommend you feed at higher levels. Regardless of nutrient brand, .4 EC is super light. You mentioned your plants went light green with spots, that's not nutrient burn, I think that's under-feeding.
What are you using for water?
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TREE KING
tap water. it comes out at 120 tds so i added 200 to that which is 320 total. Homebrewer i just gave my blubonics 200 tds ( 120 + 200) of dina grow-grow alone and they got tip burn. there also mostly blueberry and as you know there known for not being able to handle alot of nutes. trust me theres one thing i have no problems noticing and thats tip burn. they were doing fine under the same tds with an 2 part grow? the dsd are even more sensitive than those
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TREE KING
what about the bloom though? too bad we cant post Homebrewers thread here
Ok, in the future when you're talking about feeding levels, your base ppm of your tap water counts. How much 'grow' in terms of mls/gallon are you adding to get to your EC? I'm wondering if your TDS meter is off. There is simply no way you should be seeing burn (if that's what it is) at those feeding levels.
Have you used both and if so, what are the advantages of less P in veg? I've only used the grow because that's what the local stores carry.
Vegging with grow and protekt, 4 different strains, .7 EC:
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TREE KING
homebrewer i dont know what to tell you. i fried 2-3 feet tall blubonic plants last crop at 420 tds (thats the ec x 500 calc). and also at that rate alot of dsd plants started clawing from too much nitrogen. everyone is always giving there plants alot more nutes that i do and i can never explain it. like i said before i gave the dsd 1 ml a gal of grow and the rest bloom. i also just remembered that it was a little above 320 tds. maybe 350 or something and my tds meter is on point 100%, no problem what so ever. i dont know by the looks of it il have to stick with the 2 part for now cause my plants look extremely healthy when using it as long as i keep the tds low
bushdoctor215
Member
Without seeing your 2-3 ft tall plants, at 420 tds of Dyna-Gro under strong hid`s you prolly had severe mag deficiency. It can happen quick and will make your plants look fried. severe necrosis and crunchy curled up leaves. Dyna is very low in mag to begin with and some of the plants we grow are down right hogs. If your tap has plenty of mag in it you`ll be o.k. if not, thats why they make their mag-pro additive. I don`t know how homebrewer runs such low ec and does so well but he does. For me it`s 10ml a gallon roughly 1.6ec in DTW and I`m golden...
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TREE KING
the 420 tds wasnt with dyna grow it was with an sensi 2 part. i know im gonna have to dial in the dyna grow first to be successful with it. just so you know a friend of mine keeps his big mothers at 400 tds using general hydro and they stay healthy so it doesnt seem like you need a high nute level to keep plants healthy. regardless of what people think i seriously think you have to keep your plants at different tds levels depending of the kind of nutes you use. even toohigh said that if you use advanced nutrients connoisseur make sure you only use it at half the ppm that you use the 2 part at cause its strong stuff. and on homebrewers thread which we cant post here, dyna grow was at the same ppm as connoisseur in his side by side comparison and the plants using connoisseur were showing they had too much nitrogen but the dyna gro plants were healthy.
bushdoctor215
Member
My bad. I thought you were talking flowering plants which have higher demands especially during the stretch. Good luck working out your issues with the Dyna. You`ll be hooked once you do...
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TREE KING
i was talkin about flowering plants. yeah hopefully i can straighten this out sometime without destroying a crop.
Between switching from GH to Dynagro and then testing Connoisseur, I didn't need to change the EC from brand to brand. I'm assuming your pH is in the high 5's regardless of the fertilizer you're using? If so, it sounds like you've got some trouble-shooting to do. I apologize that I can't be of more help but I'm simply not seeing the issues that you are. In fact, you may be the only one as a few people who use DG on other forums seem to find it as easy and trouble free as me. That's a big reason why I use it, it's consistent and simple.
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TREE KING
thanks for trying to help
Check your PH. You are locked out of mag. You might want to really flush.
I have been laughing the past 3 years at the hydro store. I hang out there quite a bit; my buddy owns it. I can't believe all the shit he sells.
I run one cap of grow per 5 gallons and run cal mag, since I RO. PH ends up at 5.8.
Been running Roots Organic with it. Just swithced to Coco and it's looking perfect. I run the bloom at the same rate. I use to spend thousand on nutes and all the fancy shit. My buddy just sits at the register and shakes head at me as I laugh at everybody buying all the crap. If everybody used dyno gro he would go broke so I keep my mouth shut. My first run with coco I ran straight maxi bloom and cal mag with great success. Next run going try the dyno gro bloom. I know it's going to be amazing.
Pro-Tek- There is no comparsion, you get a little on your hand and you want to jerk off. It's really slick. I just tried the Silca blast from bonitcare and it feels like water. No comparsion. I don't use silca as much as I should but might start using.
Try adding some epson salt. It will help with the yellowing. What medium are you using?
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TREE KING
im using 4" squared rockwool cubes. my ph has always been on point unless dyna grow needs a higher ph than advanced nutrients. il usually start at like 5.5 and let it rise to 6.0. im not gonna lie though theres a chance it could of started at 5.3 but ive never had any problems in the past starting at that level because the first couple days the ph rises quicker than normal and thats the reason why i do that. theres no use using salt now cause i switched back to sensi 2 part at 320 tds and the plants are looking almost normal again already. a foliar spray of b-52 did wonders also to give the plants a boost. i just had to pluck all the leaves off that got damaged/burned from the dyna gro. i wish i knew what the hell went wrong cause all i did was keep the same tds that i had with an. same ph and everything
