When is best to start PK boosters?

[DanTheReggaeFan]

My PK booster says to start using from the start of week 4 or when the vegetative growth has stopped during the flowering cycle. My vegetative growth stopped around the end of week 2 so should I start the booster now or wait until the 4th week?

 

[Fixer]

I just use MOAB once to initiate flowering when I put the plants into flower.

 

[BillFarthing]

Never. I don't use bloom boosters and you can't force feed a plant. Just look at tissue samples.

 

[sshz]

I agree, I never use them either. When I used to, they always had an adverse affect on the plants and leaves.

 

[Guest]

P is phosphorus and K is potassium. Both essential elements. One of the reasons for PK boosters is because elevated concentrations of P and K in a liquid base nutrient would make it unstable. I assume this means it would react and precipitate or crystallise.
Both P and K are essential and in high demand at different stages for the chemical processes that take place within a plant during both growth and flower/fruiting phases. A small dose of phosphorous in early veg stimulates root growth. And potassium improves the quality and yield of flowers/fruit (studies show). So it depends on NPK profile of the base nutrients you are currently using. A small amount any time would be beneficial, and at the right time when in in demand by the plant even more beneficial.
I find most alot of horticultural ferts/boosters to reccomend 4-5 times more then what is useful to the plant.

 

[Rodehazrd]

I'm in the don't brigade too. When I have tried to boost anything I've had disaster on some scale. I try to feed a 1.1 ec at a ratio of 242 up to week 6-7 depending on the strain.
The only thing I pump up is calcium from early veg till week 2 of flowering. IMHO the trick is to have the plant ready to stretch at the flip.

 

[unregistered190]

I find most alot of horticultural ferts/boosters to reccomend 4-5 times more then what is useful to the plant.

Good point dots! I agree, they want to sell more product. I use minimal strength on all salt based nutes....nothing more.

 

[Guest]

I'm in the don't brigade too. When I have tried to boost anything I've had disaster on some scale. I try to feed a 1.1 ec at a ratio of 242 up to week 6-7 depending on the strain.
The only thing I pump up is calcium from early veg till week 2 of flowering. IMHO the trick is to have the plant ready to stretch at the flip.

Good point. Calcium is immobile so it's important to provide for that to ensure it makes its way to the growing tips. Calcium in the cell walls inhibits powdery mildew and botrytis. It's not easily taken up by plants and uptake is improved by using a chelate (eg. Aminos). Chelate binds with the calcium and is taken up more efficiently. Calcium is important in coco growing as the coco breaks down exchange sites will hold on to the calcium. Don't forget about the calcium already in your water if using tap water.

Good point dots! I agree, they want to sell more product. I use minimal strength on all salt based nutes....nothing more.

Totes bro. Reccomended strengths and frequencies are fkn crazy especially if you consider they are expecting you to put this into your fields/outdoor gardens, poisoning the soil rendering it dead over time.
I keep it lean and mean in veg. And boost it up some in flower. I find higher adequate nutrient level in flower increases terpenes aka stink.

 

[prune]

Good point. Calcium is immobile so it's important to provide for that to ensure it makes its way to the growing tips. Calcium in the cell walls inhibits powdery mildew and botrytis. It's not easily taken up by plants and uptake is improved by using a chelate (eg. Aminos). Chelate binds with the calcium and is taken up more efficiently. Calcium is important in coco growing as the coco breaks down exchange sites will hold on to the calcium. Don't forget about the calcium already in your water if using tap water.


Totes bro. Reccomended strengths and frequencies are fkn crazy especially if you consider they are expecting you to put this into your fields/outdoor gardens, poisoning the soil rendering it dead over time.
I keep it lean and mean in veg. And boost it up some in flower. I find higher adequate nutrient level in flower increases terpenes aka stink.

There's two different kinds of knowledge, book knowledge and 10,000hr knowledge. What I see here is the former.............

 

[Guest]

Hoes

 

[HGCC]

Another vote to not use them, i dropped them and found the end product better, but it was a small drop in yield. I wouldn't recommend using them at full strength if you do decide to go that route. If you do though, I apply for about two weeks after the halfway point of flower. Roughly week 4/5 on something that goes 60-ish days.

 

[Rodehazrd]

Easy guys
Prune He did give a scholarly answer. It may just mean he reads. As he pointed out calcium isn't very mobile so you got to have a lot at every stage. before and during the stretch I spray CANO4 to put calcium in the leaves. Ca is taken up faster with the nitrate or so I,ve read. Time tested methods are good to share and most revered but knowing why it works that's what keeps me reading. I enjoy the confusion of knowing more about something than I can fully understand.

 

[George]

I use a P booster in mid flower (whenever your flowers are about to start building hard) and a K booster late flower (week 7ish strain dependent).

PK boosters tend to cause problems in coco if overdone imo.

Calcium and amino acids added at all times to keep everything working and pumping. Sometimes will use CalMag if I want some mag too.

Edit: my most flavorful runs were boosted organic P and K. Noticeably more flavor.

 

[sshz]

I'll also add it's best to use something 100% organic if you want to use a booster.......as these typically won't burn or stress the plant. Dr. Earth makes a Bud and Bloom which is 3-9-4 which works nicely. The price is right too......... Maxicrop is also used a lot but that's 0-0-17. Most people DO use these to boost overall weight in the end but I just want to keep the plants healthy, so I get a better end product. Healthy plants yield better, that's actually the key.

 

[MindEater]

Hey yall want to buy my PiKachoo Booboomon juice? Will make your plants weight extra, as much extra as PK weighs! — Bigwheel Mike

 

[Cvh]

PK boosters are the biggest bottled scam ever. Seriously, it just P and K in a bottle.
It the same stuff that's in your Bloom bottles.

 

[BillFarthing]

I might say it often, but I love the "hydro store is a ripoff" sentiment being seen more often these days.

 

[Storm Shadow]

25 lbs bag of 0-50-30 ... yield and bag appeal sky rocket

 

[St. Phatty]

I use Potassium along with Nitrogen during veg. - if I'm motivated.

Of course the question depends on your soil. If you're using FFOF, you probably don't need to supplement.

I also add the extra Phosphorus when the plants are mostly done stretching, e.g. around Week 4. 1-11-1 type Bat Guano or Seabird Guano.


My usual tea - throughout the outdoor season - is Chicken Manure (roughly 2-3-2) + Disgusting Sounding Nitrogen Source (human urine) + Wood Ash (for potassium.)

Then adding the Phosphorus when she starts growing the little flowerettes that become buds, i.e. when the pistils start showing up.

For those of us growing in pots, I think the main thing is to give them enough water so the roots don't get too Hot.


so go out at the peak of the afternoon heat and stick your hand in the plants' soil.

 

[Cuffs]

any difference flowering for p/K ratio?
in market is 13/14 and 9/18 ratios.
maybe other too