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What liquid organic ferts should i use?

Addendum / Correction / Clarification

Addendum / Correction / Clarification

Come to think of it, the last time we tried that Milorganite fert regimine, other organics were added. So, to use it alone, use more. For five gallons of medium, eight cups of Milorganite should do the trick. A few cups of worm castings would be icing on the cake ( Especially if the mix sits, damp, for a few weeks Before the grow. )

Not only does watering pearlite/vermiculite make the stuff easier to mix, it cuts down on the dust that blows all over whenever it's poured from the bag.

The flip-side trick is to mix all the Dry ingredients of a mix Before they go in the medium ( Pro-mix, Sunshine mix etc. ).

The blood meal, worm castings, kelp meal, bone meal, crushed limestone, etc. are poured in a bucket, stirred with a broom handle, and/or rolled around.

Makes it much easier to mix completely with the medium.

It's easy as hell to cut a bale into quarters, divide and break it up.

Toss each section in a tarp, and spray each quarter mix with 1/4 gallon of water with a dose of liquid seaweed in it. Add the dry stuff 1/4 at a time, pack it away in buckets with tops, and you're done.

( For Vic's "Super Soil", and other "living soil" mixes, a period of "cooking" that allows a flush of flora & fauna to develop is the "best practice". )
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
If you're going to use that combo of mediums, you can add One dry organic ingredient and then just add water. No need for anything else.

Go to Home Depot or similar big box / garden store and get a 40 lb bag of Milorganite. It's completely organic and makes plants grow like crazy.

For a 5 gallon bucket, place the pearlite and vermiculite in a bucket with holes in the bottom and pour a gallon or so of water through it. Then pour it out onto a tarp and mix it back and forth. The wet particles will distribute themselves evenly, which they Don't do when mixed dry.

Then slowly add four cups of Milorganite, and mix again in the tarp. Add the Coir, and mix again.

Put it in the bucket, plant the clone/start, and water as needed.

An occasional hit of liquid seaweed, and/or dilute molasses, could be used if you think it'll help ... but that's about all.

Good luck.

You do know "milorganite" is made of human sewage, right? BC
 

subrob

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
heres another vote for biocanna....ive used a lot of diff ferts over the years, and i mean lots, have actually been happy w most all of them, but the biocanna stands out(as far as premade), by far to me, with the final product. yield not as good as others, but taste and smell.
 

M3@n_0n3

Member
I went with purvian guano, jamaican guano, and mexican guano for my teas, add a little earth worm castings / kelp / liquid karma and you're plants will love you. buy some beneficial bacteria too..

all the recipes for the teas are in the organics for beginners thread, customize them to optimize your grow.

Beware of Bacteria. :nono: Quality can be suspect. Read more in Tom Hills thread here.

Harvest was not happy with his results, but did conduct an interesting experiment with his leftover suspect bacto.

Also demonstrates how responsive some breeders are regarding the quality of their product and customer satisfaction.
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
For short harvested indoor crops, I find it hard to find an organic that is available as any salt-based nute, and after a couple of side by side runs, I'm ditching organics indoors.

I did GH 3 part vs Floranova my first run in coco, and AN Sensi 2 part vs Pura Vida organics the second run. The salt based nutes yielded better both times, and quality was not diminished. The organic stuff smells a little stronger when fresh cut, but after they're cured you can't tell them apart.

Biggest difference in the end, my wallet was a lot lighter with organics and I had less product at the end to make up for it.

Lose/Lose for me. Your mileage may vary.

it's because of stories like these that we should always point to dry amendments. Organic fertilizer not available enough to be a substitute for salts? No surprises here.

I'd like to see a poll of liquid nutes users asking "did you switch from conventional growing without changing your techniques"?
 
"Organic Hydro Nutes" are organic in name only ...

"Organic Hydro Nutes" are organic in name only ...

For short harvested indoor crops, I find it hard to find an organic that is available as any salt-based nute, and after a couple of side by side runs, I'm ditching organics indoors. ... The salt based nutes yielded better both times, and quality was not diminished. The organic stuff smells a little stronger when fresh cut, but after they're cured you can't tell them apart.

Biggest difference in the end, my wallet was a lot lighter with organics and I had less product at the end to make up for it.

Lose/Lose for me. Your mileage may vary.

It's not surprising that hydro doesn't get better results with the rancid "organic" swill that pours from Satans pecker straight to the shelf of the Grow-store.

Organic soil has a lot more potential, even in short-term S.O.G. grows.

Using inert media like Pearlite & Coir with a Real organic like Milorganite is a hybrid grow where complete nutrition is combined with great root aeration . It would be interesting to see a Coir/Milorganite plant in a drip-irrigated or hempy style bucket, side by side with a commercial hydro fert-flush plant.
 
Absolutely ...

Absolutely ...

You do know "milorganite" is made of human sewage, right? BC

Been using it for decades.

It's manufactured by the City of Milwaukee.

Works on everything from lawns to veggies.

It's a slow release fertilizer, and can't burn roots.
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
It's not surprising that hydro doesn't get better results with the rancid "organic" swill that pours from Satans pecker straight to the shelf of the Grow-store.

Organic soil has a lot more potential, even in short-term S.O.G. grows.

Using inert media like Pearlite & Coir with a Real organic like Milorganite is a hybrid grow where complete nutrition is combined with great root aeration . It would be interesting to see a Coir/Milorganite plant in a drip-irrigated or hempy style bucket, side by side with a commercial hydro fert-flush plant.

LOL, the first line cracked me up.

You're probably right, organics can offer a more complex line of minerals to the plants, and when fine tuned very carefully can probably exceed the yields of a salt-based nute.

However, since I don't monocrop, it would be very difficult to dial in the perfect mix for any given strain, especially on a fairly large scale. I was using coco my last couple grows, and considered using the Canna Bio Terra line (basically coco-based soil) but it's $15 a bag and tricky to find.

I also decided I didn't want to support a company that will not sell to a hydro store unless they sign a contract marking up their product 100% minimum. Big ripoff that.

So I guess I'm going back to the cheap basics, FFOF and AN Sensi nutes, got almost 1.5# per light on those and it's cheap and easy to find.

Sorry for the threadjack!
 
AN Iguana Juice

AN Iguana Juice

Started using AN Iguana Juice Bloom, used to use Age Old Nutrients bloom. Like the results from the AN IJ better because it has more nitrogen and not packed with phos. Think I'm gonna stick with the Iguana Juice for a base fert even though it's a bit pricey. If I switch, I would just go to mixing my own teas. :joint:

For soil i have tried FFOF, but I found it to be a little hot. So i switched to Pro Mix BX w/myco, and so far the Pro Mix beats the FFOF hands down.:2cents:
 

skunktoker

Member
Roots-Organics buddha-bloom this stuff is off the hook...plants love it..big-bud and overdrive and good soil of course.....keep it dank.
 

sunnydayze28

New member
i would go with compost tea. i'm not growing at this time, but i only used tea, and i used it every watering. i used 2cups WC, about 1cup of composted cow manure, a dash of blood,bone and kelp meal and a healthy dose of molasses maybe a half a cup, didnt really measure, in 5 gallons of water and bubbled it for a day or 2 and my plants loved it.
:dueling:WHOA! easy on the molasses there, buddy! Dr. Elaine Ingham's EWC aerated tea recipie calls for 2 Tbs. molasses in a 50 GALLON brew. Too much sugar makes the populations skyrocket, then decrease and even go anaerobic in 24 hours. I use about 4 TBS. molasses at the start of my 35 gallon brew, then add about 8 more TBS. at the end of brewing process just before watering.
 

OZZ_

Well-known member
Veteran
Ummm .......... everything Ive read says 1 TABLESPOON molasses to a single gallon of water. Im new to MJ growing but all my habaneros and chillie peppers get watered at that strength and love it.

So 5 tablespoons to a 5 gallon bucket, probably around a 1/4 cup but hes not to far off... certainly closer then a few tablespoons to 50 gallons.
 
S

scaryharry

Try this stuff


And Neptunes Harvest Fish 2-4-1 the yellow one. I've never used any thing else sooo...lol I like the sounds of the Blue Mountain Organics though. Probably gonna give them a shot next go around
 

Weird Jimmy

Licensed Patient/Caregiver & All-Around Cool Ass B
ICMag Donor
Veteran
If you want to buy a good bottled mix, I've always had good results Age Old Organics.

Although I just ran out of my last bottle of Age Old Bloom and I'm currently in the midst of switching to guano teas.
 

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