what creates tight nugs?

[jaw]

Let your buds finish, there can be a huge difference in finished plants and plants chopped 1 week to early. you do not need 600 watts to make dense buds, you can grow nice rock hard buds wtih 70 watt hps if your enviroment is right and strain permits it. just keep your plants short and stout if you have a lower lighting application

 

[alpinestar]

inflorescence: broad statements are funny

digital hippie: i agree dense buds suck... less surface area for good trichome production, take longer to cure, and they burn worse

danger mouse: sugar additives can be added throughout watering during the entire cycle. id definitely use it in higher concentration during the flush, and apply a large amount the day before harvest

 

[inflorescence]

inflorescence: broad statements are funny

My statement or Yours? lol

 

[yukino_asano]

high temps definitely contribute to fluffy buds. I also found c02 helped to create denser buds. (or possibly? it is the plants ability withstand higher temps with c02)

I agree, don't feel DIFF contributes to tight buds.

DIFF Does contribute to yields and stretch.

On another note:

amazing how picky some people are. (not referring to anyone here)

whiners......
it isnt purple, the buds aren't rock hard.

I want good strong meds. I don't care if it is purple, fluffy or rock hard.

 

[barletta]

Let your buds finish, there can be a huge difference in finished plants and plants chopped 1 week to early.

I have found that with most strains (not the hazy hazes) if I let them go a week to 10 days longer than I think that I should, they tighten up significantly. I use mixed cmh/hps, and I love being able to control the stretch (distance bet nodes), but I don't think that the plants that finish directly under the CMH necessarily get tighter buds.

Genetics (something that 'rolls' or 'bursts' out calyxes vs. 'stacking' them)
Temps High heat makes em wispy
Light intensity As close as you can get em w/o gettin them hot
Let em finish They are almost always done AFTER you think...
Don't starve them Give them the food they need to get big

 

[lilo]

Yes I find real tight nugs to be not as good. One thing why haze type of buds are so good, imho, is because of greater surface area hence trichome coverage.

 

[Danger Mouse]

danger mouse: sugar additives can be added throughout watering during the entire cycle. id definitely use it in higher concentration during the flush, and apply a large amount the day before harvest

Many thanks alpinestar. I took your advice and have noticed an improvement in my buds. I chop in 7 days (or so).

Best,

DM

 

[NorCalFor20]

this should create tight nugs

 

[barletta]

this should create tight nugs

....or at least a lighter bank account....

 

[yukino_asano]

this should create tight nugs

Based on what???

Let say you got

improper genetics
bad enviromental conditions

but you can use them nutes and they will create tight nugs.

Genetics (something that 'rolls' or 'bursts' out calyxes vs. 'stacking' them) Temps High heat makes em wispy Light intensity As close as you can get em w/o gettin them hot Let em finish They are almost always done AFTER you think... Don't starve them Give them the food they need to get big

jaw n barletta good point about finishing times.

Letting them calyxs swell up to the fullest!!

Some strains are just dont create dense buds.

 

[BudZad7]

Hi All! Nice Info!!! Plants are like humans in a sense.....we put cloths on when it gets cold, and take cloths off when it gets hot....So, plants do similar as well, during fall,winter and spring, plants indoors under lights do ok,because the outside temps are cooler, and the buds are thicker and denser,
they have their cloths on during these months.....then spring ends and summer
starts and temps rise outside, your plants sense this temp rise and start to streach and elongate, they are taking their cloths off, or loosing density.... There's a new product line that's been out for a year or more, Bushmaster,Gravity, and Purple Maxx......THESE DO WORK!!! Try them during the hotter months and see the difference......Peace!

 

[Pirate138]

....or at least a lighter bank account....

Well put! I luv how kids think that the more they spend on nutes and the more they use the better buds they will get, untrue.

 

[NorCalFor20]

not true, plants have needs that potting soil dosn't fufill - your soil dosn't provide the neccassary nuterients to grow a pot plant to its maximum potential. Potting soil is made to grow 6$/lb tomatoes not 6,000$/lb sensi. People don't go and spend 1,000 dollars to grow 100$ worth of tomatoes....

everything I have in my nuterients is needed by the plant and used for a certin purpose. im pretty sure you don't have humic/fulvic acid in your soil. Those are humates which allow plants to chelate nuterients in the soil for better nute uptake... compared to not using it you could have a 15% loss in yeild and a signifigant loss in potency. to me spending 120 bucks at the hydro store makes since. if im going to increase my yeild by even 1 oz its worth it to me, because 1 oz is 1 more ounce i didn't have before and 120 bucks for an oz increase in yeild compared to 320-400$ in the street. let me explain it for you in bold letters for the old lady to make sure she can see, {im only assuming your an old lady because my grandmother is the only person i know that calls everyone kids, kids these days,your posts suck kid, etc.}

Grow Big- Veg Fert

Big Bloom- Micronuterients, EWC, Kelp, Guano

Tiger Bloom- Flowering Fert

Liquid Gold- Fulvic Acid , as I said above this is important

Open sesame- Early flower Bloom Booster, increases bloom sites, and size. Contains Humic Acid

Beasty Blooms- Middle flower Bloom Booster, packs on resin and weight,Contains Humic Acid and Seaweed Extract

Cha Ching- End of flower Bloom Booster, increases trichrome coverage, finishes the job of Open Sesame and Beasty Blooms

Pro-tekt- Silica Suppliment , for cell growth and root protection

Blackstrap Molasses- Contains vitamin A, metals, Calcium, Magnesium, and carbs/sugars for flavor and food for benificial bacteria.

 

[ithruxix]

digital ballast, coupled with an air cooled hood, times that with a close to perfect environment, and voila you have extremely (sometimes too tight) dense nuggets of joy.

Seems easy huh?

 

[ithruxix]

this should create tight nugs

Not to be a jerk or anything, but I would put up my mid-range GDP against anything that comes from you, using that lineup. All I use, are simple organic compounds, probably spent no more than 75$, and it will last me a long time. I make teas, add some garden limestone and molasses, and I have a great outcome. Give the plants exactly what they need, and the rewards will be grand!

BTW, I use a few FF products *maritime stuff, and bone meal* but I don't believe in all of them. The more nutrients you are giving your plants, that they don't need or use all of course, generally results in lockouts, ph fluctuations etc IME.

I also forgot to say, drop your lights RIGHT on top of the canopy, if you have an air cooled hood.

 

[GET MO]

Good thread.

 

[barletta]

not true, plants have needs that potting soil dosn't fufill - your soil dosn't provide the neccassary nuterients to grow a pot plant to its maximum potential. Potting soil is made to grow 6$/lb tomatoes not 6,000$/lb sensi. People don't go and spend 1,000 dollars to grow 100$ worth of tomatoes....

everything I have in my nuterients is needed by the plant and used for a certin purpose. im pretty sure you don't have humic/fulvic acid in your soil. Those are humates which allow plants to chelate nuterients in the soil for better nute uptake... compared to not using it you could have a 15% loss in yeild and a signifigant loss in potency. to me spending 120 bucks at the hydro store makes since. if im going to increase my yeild by even 1 oz its worth it to me, because 1 oz is 1 more ounce i didn't have before and 120 bucks for an oz increase in yeild compared to 320-400$ in the street. let me explain it for you in bold letters for the old lady to make sure she can see, {im only assuming your an old lady because my grandmother is the only person i know that calls everyone kids, kids these days,your posts suck kid, etc.}

Grow Big- Veg Fert

Big Bloom- Micronuterients, EWC, Kelp, Guano

Tiger Bloom- Flowering Fert

Liquid Gold- Fulvic Acid , as I said above this is important

Open sesame- Early flower Bloom Booster, increases bloom sites, and size. Contains Humic Acid

Beasty Blooms- Middle flower Bloom Booster, packs on resin and weight,Contains Humic Acid and Seaweed Extract

Cha Ching- End of flower Bloom Booster, increases trichrome coverage, finishes the job of Open Sesame and Beasty Blooms

Pro-tekt- Silica Suppliment , for cell growth and root protection

Blackstrap Molasses- Contains vitamin A, metals, Calcium, Magnesium, and carbs/sugars for flavor and food for benificial bacteria.

Dude, I'm not saying that isn't good stuff (dunno for sure, never used it), I'm just saying that it is pricey. What are you basing your assumption that I don't have any humic/fulvic in my medium? BTW, any bullshit soil with any amount of compost in it has some humic/fulvic in it. All of your bottles are pretty, and you seem to understand what they eat, but those bottles cost WELL over $100 combined, and you gotta mix every time you feed/water. If you click the link in my sig, you can see what I grow in. It is pricey too, but nowhere near the bottle line-ups, and I set it and forget it (for the most part).
Coco - $15 (you'd be buying SOME medium, right?)
castings -$15
Vermic - $4
Guano - $8
Kelp - $7
Rare Earth (silicon, agrimineral BS) - $15
Diamond Black (slow release humics/fulvics) - $15
Plant/bio-tone - $8
EDIT - Lime - $3

Don't feel bad, I bet 90% of growers start out buying ALL the bottles lol, I bought em too. Still have EJ, Age old, PBP, etc...

 

[yukino_asano]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to barletta again.

Great post for your 420'th post.

 

[ChaosCatalunya]

Let your buds finish, there can be a huge difference in finished plants and plants chopped 1 week to early. you do not need 600 watts to make dense buds, you can grow nice rock hard buds wtih 70 watt hps if your enviroment is right and strain permits it. just keep your plants short and stout if you have a lower lighting application

There folks, is one of the key secrets of growing.

I learned from Ed R years ago that potency only really arrives in the last week, all early weed is weak weed. Does anyone remember the graph ? Weeks flowering vs Potency....wks 1-9, Potency 0,0,0,0,0,0,2,14,20.

If you hold back your garden in any way whatsoever, you lengthen the time to harvest, so if you "chop at 55 days" but held them back.... poor crop, no matter what genetics, whatever Turbo2000MOFO light personally tuned by Carlos Fandango himself....your finished bud will be mediocre at best.

Plant growth is governed by limiting factors.
Plants only grow to the extent of the most limiting factor.
E.G. If everything is 10/10, but you skimp on oscillators, so leaf/air exchange is 6/10, growth will be 6/10, yield will be 6/10.

 

[Crush]

no big secret, two things: environment and genetics

more indica dominant genetics are often those with the densest nugs. white rhino and northern lights are great examples

Are you kidding?

I have grown both and the white rhino almost had NO bud matter.. it's the most leafiest strain i've seen. I dont think it's possible for that to have nugs!

The North Lights had nugs, but not the nice round dense nugs you see at a dispensery.

The skunk I grew would be the closest I had to nugs, but were fluffy.

I have no idea how these guys grow such dense perfect nugs. It's like they are vacuum sealing it and compressing it down into little balls using those kitchen storage things vacuum sealers.