Watch Sub Build His First Grow Box!

[JacuzziSplot]

Its a Triac and it works by controlling when power goes to the fan based on the AC frequency.

The more you turn the dial down the higher the signal has to be on this curve to turn the fan on.

 

[ThaLonelyStoner]

nice work!

 

[endofwed]

This is the most beautiful setup I've seen..

 

[endofwed]

im dying for an update, haha

 

[fatigues]

From the looks of your fan, it's a TD-100 or 100x. If it's a 100x, it has two speeds to hardwire the fan at (read your install manual). When using a normal rheostat controller, you should be wiring it to the higher voltage and starting your fan up at that speed, then dial it down to the optimal level.

If you have it wired at the lower voltage, it will not operate as well even at high speed and will reduce maximum CFM by about 20%.

 

[sub]

im dying for an update, haha

Haha, me too! I've been pretty busy with work, but I just started a vacation so I should have updates rocking again soon
Thanks everyone!

 

[endofwed]

Glad to see your still here

Can you tell me how loud that s&p is? I'm creating a stealth grow but I've read the air it draws in is very loud.

 

[ellingjs]

A word of warning on putting a plain rheostat on an S&P TD100... slowing fan speed with a rheostat causes heat buildup in the motor, it can be argued that this shortens the life of said fan. That being said, S&P TD100's have a thermal fuse attached to the windings of the motor that blows if the windings get over 104º (as I've read somewhere).

From personal experience, I can tell you, that using a plain light dimmer rheostat on an S&P TD100 WILL blow that fuse! ...mine stopped spinning in less than 10 minutes.

I will also tell you from personal experience... that tearing apart one of those fans to replace or bypass that fuse... is NOT fun. The fan blade is pressed firmly on the motor shaft, and getting it to let go so get to the screws that hold the works together behind the fan blade took some serious persistence.

I have verified that it was in fact just the fuse that blew by disassembling and bypassing the fuse attached to the motor windings. I will be making this bypass permanent in the near future so I can go back to using this fan for something productive, though for those safety conscious people out there, I can't recommend this, as the fan will no longer be "thermally protected"... but I'd personally rather have a working fan than a paper weight, and I don't feel like doing the research to find an equivalent replacement fuse.

With the exception of transmitting some vibration to through the panel that it was attached to, it was a very quiet fan compared to a normal 4" can fan. But for me, a normal can fan, on a router speed controller, bungee mounted... is quieter than the S&P fan, hard mounted, running full bore to move the same air.

Just my $.02... hope it is helpful to someone out there! Interesting looking cabinet, keep up the good work!