UVB bulbs...

[dontstepongrass]

yea true that. let's keep it on topic here.

this is for spreading knowledge about uvb use, not disuse.

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

No pet store light is going to be nearly as good as a real HPS grow light. Don't mess with the t5 lights, you're wasting your money. Get a real HPS ballast, lamp, and reflector. 400w will get you started.

you got to love how people like THIS GUY just come into a thread and spout out some shit WITHOUT READING a single fucking word of whats going on.......

OR EVEN LOOK AT A PICTURE!!!!!!LOLOLOLOL!!!!

uv bulb emits so few UVB lights that if put close to an HPS almost all of the UVB will be lost due to destructive interference.


It's different matter if you use a UVB bulb with a neon.... they are on the same phase (or slightly shifted) so a very tiny amount of uvb will be lost.


Maybe this is why stoners don't usually notice any difference (it has largely been stated on OG that UVB lights are pretty useless).


If you want an HID with UVBs, then use CMH.

If you want stronger buds, then use the 40$ for an additional 150 W HID lamp, and use the additional weed to make some oil and coat the bud with it.

same problem as the dude above..... do you even see how close together all thoes hoods/lights are???? a 150W light is going to get lost next to my 1K's man.

read whats going on
whats wrong with people???
do some more reading before saying things that make u look stupid....

 

[robotwithdreams]

I found a very useful site that may be helpfull for others here. This site tested various uv bulbs including the 40 watt reptile fluro, which seems to be quite popular with folks here.

The purpose was to guage the strength of the uvb rays and see if there was any link to some issues customers were having with their reptiles.

There are all kinds of useful charts with their results.

I,too, before reading this thought that their was no way a 40 watt fluro could put oout any substantial intensity. Happy to find out i was wrong, so check it out:

http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-tests.htm .

 

[robotwithdreams]

i was thinkin about starting another thread to bring attention to this study but i think this should suffice.

 

[dontstepongrass]

robot - that is a great find!

 

[robotwithdreams]

Obviously, if the info is correct, those charts showing the reptisun fluro with different reflectors showing uvb output (uw/cm2) can be helpful in figuring out how much area each bulb would cover sufficiently.

Now this does bring into question an earlier statement by guineapig, "One 40Wer can cover an area 5foot down, 5foot by 5foot across". I really appreciate the fact u almost always give accurate and extremely helpful advice. Were you basing that uv coverage on personel experiance or just a based based on accumulated knowledge on the matter.

 

[robotwithdreams]

guinea, nevermind i see u were quoting someone else.

 

[Guest]

That's a quote from OT1 about a 40 foot tube covering an area 5 x 5 x 5, he wrote the original article:

Posted by OT1 @ http://www.reefermanseeds.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234

Growing weed that is truly hallucigenic does not have much to do with the strain. They can all do it - any decent strain that is in the class of Cannabis. Be it indica or sativa. Though with Sativas you are more likely to succeed as they have resin balls on the end of their tricloms that are of a smaller diameter than the resin balls of an indica.Sativas are 25micron in diameter - Indicas 75micron in diameter, when fully developed, respectivley.


For a better understanding of what I am refering to, please go and read this - it is the most pioneering work of our times on this subject - and is correct down to a Tee. Read it thoroughly and understand everything it is depicting, as it will elevate your complete understanding on how REAL hallucigenic cannabis is grown. It is not the genes - it is the means by which it is done. Irrespective as to what all other works/text and seedbank-advertising has said or outlined about it till NOW.

Enjoy:

http://marijuana-optics.greatnow.com/

There are proper Fluorescent UVB(and UVA) tubes available and they're much more expensive than the UVA and the standard ones(4times or more the cost). Never run them on Energy-saver or Econo running gear as that produces less lumen output with any fluro. But be very careful when using the UVB tubes. If not for the slightly glowing tube when they are on, you could hardly tell they were on in the room - they transmit entirely in the invisible wavebands, whereas UVA tubes, MH and HPS transmit low amounts of only in the UVA waveband, which is slightly visible(voilet) and nowhere near as penetrating/powerful as UVB. But expose any skin to them(UVB 40W tubes) from less than 6feet away, and it burns in minutes. Like proper sunburn and worse if closer - can easily promote skinCancer(as does the sun). Can give you cateract in no time at all, even with sunglasses, from even 10feet away and more. IF you intend on using them, make sure that you never walk into the growroom when they are on. Have a swtch for them outside the room, or just inside the door. If just inside the door, turn them on and off immediatly you close or open the door. One 40Wer can cover an area 5foot down, 5foot by 5foot across. So with every 600 or 1000Watter, you have 1 40W UVB Fluro with it, AND '120W Clear Incandescent bulb as well for 1 hour either side of lights on and off - simulating the red ambient light of the outdoors ever dusk and dawn of every day anywhere in the world'. This Incandescent wavelength is as critical as any other. The lightband is required as it aids in the 'benefical' toxification and detoxification the plant needs to complete the activation process fully. Couple all that up and timed correctly indoors with either MH or HPS, and pollenate the mum/s, and you'll be well on your way to producing the most potent buds you can indoors. More potent than any indoors buds grown without all these factors - no matter how sticky and smelly they are. They won't be as potent as the ones you grow using this ENTIRE method.

This one will do but be careful not to place them too close to the plant as they will burn it too. Be very careful when using them not to damage yourself also. Go to the 3rd item down on this page - LS18/CB - 240 Volt UV Lamp:


http://www.prospectors.com.au/defaul...ine.asp&id=176

You can email or ring companies like Raytech and or Heraus for full specs of all there products. They make their lamps for the manufacturing, scientific and medical industries. Heraeus - http://www.noblelight.net/tr-uvindex.html - also have a range of hand-made MH that are very strong in emitting the UV bandwidths. Being specialised lamps, they are not cheap. Using the sun itself is cheaper and far safer. There are cheaper fluros on the market that will do the job - you just have to find them, but they are not as high in there output of the desired wavelengths(300-315nm) as are these specialised ones for professional work. The wattages required for the right type of UVB are far less than we are normally use to with fluros. 10W of proper UVB light is extremly powerful in its illumince output, penetration and damaging effects. Keeping in mind when looking for them to ask for the ones that have a very hi output in the 300-315 nano meter range - that is the most effective UVB range. The reptile tubes are very low output in this range, they have a higher output above the 320nm range and into the UVA range. They are not good for growing, that is why you can keep your hand warm with them and not cause it any damage/burn. Remember that the lamps we need here will damamge flesh and eyes if exposed to them, even for a short period of time. I do not recommend using them. They can be used, but it is hard to get them setup right and to maintain using them without hurting yourself. But keeping in mind that as with everything we need - if we can't have it all, some is better than none. To supplement your existing HID setup with any UVB emitting lamp is better than not having one at all. But it must have a reasonable amount of output in the 300-315nm wavelengths. They are the wavelengths that are most effective and they operate at the prefered Kelvin temperature range that the plant needs to see/feel, that aids in the full activation.

The BLACK tubes are a UVA tube fundamentally. They will not have much effect on the plants. Your may have stretched as a result of not enough light ot too much heat or a combo of both. Black lights, reptile lights, aquarium UV lights are all UVA rich, not UVB. They have a very small amount of UVB, and it is that minute amount(well under 3% - some under 0.9% of the total UV spectrum they emit, not the total spectrum they emit) that makes them warm things. Even 1W of the right UVB spectrum at a distance of 1foot from the source will burn you in no time.

So IMO, again - if you want to do it right and saftely, do it outside. I answered the question of the what the right UVB lamp is, not because I would advise others to do it(as I wouldn't do it myself), but as a guide to show that it could be done if one was crazy enough to do it. Also not forgetting the aging effect the lamp would have on anything and everything that it shined on in the growroom. Newly painted surfaces would look over 20years old in 1 year of exposure from a good distance away. In fact scientists use this method for determining the aging and destructive effect that sunlight exposure has on any surface. They can very very accuratly determine how a given paint(for instance) would look after 10 years of being applied on wood, then exposed to the sun every day, within a 'half to one hour' period of exposure to the predetermined amount of UVB in a laboratory. I have it on good authority that a test like that would take no longer than an hour to run - not days, weeks, months or years. Testing time could even be reduced by increase the amount/rate of UVB on it, to as little as under 15minutes of exposure, to simulate 10years in the sun every day. But that would increase the error factor of the testing to over 2%. Which may seem ok to us, but it is not in the scientific industries with this type of testing and determination that is done in any decent Standards Certified photometric laboratory.

These are supplimental urls to the original one I gave in my first post.

http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/N35Lat.html
http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/litesetup.html
http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/litepic.html


OT


3 - "Are you saying to run only the red incandescent during the first and last hours of lights-on?"

YES, as the sole source of light for the 1st and last hour of the entire life of an indoor grow - both veg and flower.

"And the UVB flouro(s) during the entire light-cycle?".

The UVB fluros are a supplemental source to the HIDs and are run in conjunction with the HIDs only during the period that is within the 'first and last hours of lights-on', after and before the incandescent lights are run. Rememeber also, that the transition between the incandescent lights and the HIDs+UVfluros is a MAKE-BEFORE-BREAK scenario that assures the plants are not left in darkness.

 

[Guest]

Here's the article OT1 refers to:

MARIJUANA OPTICS

An elaboration on the phytochemical process that makes THC
by Joe Knuc

The resin exuded by the glandular trichome forms a sphere (1) that encases the head cells. (2)

When the resin spheres are separated from the dried plant material by electrostatic (3) attraction and placed on a microscope slide illuminated with a 100W incandescent bulb, they appear very dark when observed through a 300X microscope. Since orange, red, and infrared are the component wavelengths of incandescent light, and since the absorption of light makes an object dark or opaque to the frequency of the incoming wave, one can conclude that these wavelengths are probably not directly involved in energizing the cannabinoid pathway. (4)

However, the resin sphere is transparent to ultraviolet radiation. (5)

The author found through trial and error that only one glandular
trichome (6) exhibits the phytochemical process that will produce the amount of THC associated with pain relief, appetite stimulation and anti-nausea; euphoria and hallucinations are side-effects, however. This trichome is triggered into growth by either of the two ways that the floral bract is turned into fruit. (7)

Of all the ways that optics are involved in the phytochemical production of THC, the most interesting has to be how the head cells and cannabinoid molecules are tremendously magnified (8) by the resin sphere. These and other facts are curiously absent from the literature. The footnotes update the literature to include electrostatic separation of the resin sphere from the dried plant material and marijuana parthenocarpy.


(1) "For all spheres, a ray drawn perpendicular to the sphere's surface will intersect the center of the sphere, no matter what spot on the surface is picked, and the magnifying power(a) of a glass sphere is greater the smaller its size. A sphere of glass can also bring light that is heading to a focus behind it to a point within it, with freedom from two aberrations, spherial aberration and coma, but not from chromatic aberration. Chromatic aberration results when different wavelengths are focused on different planes and is the most difficult of the aberrations to correct. The human eye lens also exhibits chromatic aberration, but a yellow pigment(b) called the macula lutea in the fovea, an area at the rear of the eyeball, corrects this problem by the way it absorbs blue light."

(a)"The formula to calculate the magnifying power of a sphere is l=333/d, where l is the magnifying power and d is the diameter of the sphere expressed in mm."

(b)Interestingly, the resin exuded by drug-type flowering female marijuana plants has a yellow tint. Could this pigment work to correct chromatic aberration in the resin sphere like the macula lutea does in the fovea for the eyeball?

(2) Quoting from the Mahlberg and Kim study of hemp: "THC accumulated in abundance in the secretory cavity where it was associated with the following: cell walls, surface feature of secretory vesicles, fibrillar material released from disc cell wall, and cuticle. It was not associated with the content of the secretory vesicles."

The resin spheres contain the THC. It is not contained in the leaf or floral bract. After the resin spheres are dissolved in solvent or dislodged by electrostatic attraction, and a microscopic examination of the leaf or floral bract has revealed that only the glandular trichomes' stalks remain, no effect will be felt after smoking the dried plant material from which the resin spheres have been removed.

(3) The electrostatic collection of the resin spheres from dried marijuana plants with plenty of ripe seeds has been for hundreds of years the method indigenous people of North Africa and Lebanon have used to make hashish. Obtain a round metal can 8" or so in diameter x 3" or so in depth (the kind that cookies come in) with a smooth lid. Obtain 2 ounces of dried marijuana with plenty of ripe seeds in the tops. To remove the seeds and stems, sift the marijuana tops through a 10-hole-to-the-inch wire kitchen strainer into the can. Close the can with the lid and vigorously shake the closed can three or four times. This gives the resin spheres an excess negative charge. Let the can sit for a moment and then remove the lid. Opposites attract. The negative-charged resin spheres have been attracted to the metal surface of the can and lid which has a positive charge. Take a matchbook cover or credit card and draw the edge across the surface of the lid. Note the collected powder. Observed under 300X magnification, the collected powder from this "shake" is composed of resin spheres with an occasional non-glandular trichome. As the marijuana is shaken again and again, and more of the yellow resin spheres are removed from the plant material, the collected powder gradually becomes green-colored as the number of non-glandular trichomes increases in the collected powder. The greener the powder, the less the effect.

(4) "Cannabinoids represent a dimer consisting of a terpene and a phenol component. Cannabigerol (CBG) is the first component of the pathway. It undergoes chemical change to form either cannabichromene (CBC), or cannabidiol (CBD). Delta 9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) is derived from CBD."

(5) "Pate (1983) indicated that in areas of high ultraviolet radiation exposure, the UVB (280-320 nm) absorption properties of THC may have conferred an evolutionary advantage to Cannabis capable of greater production of this compound from biogenetic precursor CBD. The extent to which this production is also influenced by environmental UVB has also been experimentally determined by Lydon et al. (1987)."

The writer's own experience allow for a more specific conclusion: If the UVB photon is missing from the light stream(a), or the intensity as expressed in µW/cm2 falls below a certain level(b), the phytochemical process will not be completely energized with only UVA photons which are more penetrating but less energetic, and the harvested resin spheres will have mostly precursor compounds and not fully realized THC(c).

(a)Examples of an environment where the UVB photon would be missing from the light stream include all indoor cultivation illuminated by HID bulbs and in glass or corrugated fiberglass covered greenhouses.

(b)"The maximum UVB irradiance near the equator (solar elevation angle less than 25 deg.) under clear, sunny skies is about 250 µW/cm2. It was observed that the daily solar UVB in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia (N24.4Lat.) decreased from September to December by about 40% (Hannan et al. 1984). The further a person is from the tropics, the less UVB radiation there is: the average annual exposure of a person living in Hawaii is approximately four times that of someone living in northern Europe." Below are some UVB readings taken in Hoyleton, Illinois, on a clear sunny day in June by David Krughoff as reported in Reptile Lighting 2000.

7am: 12 microwatts/cm2
8am: 74 microwatts/cm2
9am: 142 microwatts/cm2
10am: 192 microwatts/cm2
11am: 233 microwatts/cm2
12pm: 256 microwatts/cm2
1pm: 269 microwatts/cm2
2pm: 262 microwatts/cm2
3pm: 239 microwatts/cm2
4pm: 187 microwatts/cm2
5pm: 131 microwatts/cm2
6pm: 61 microwatts/cm2

(c)Cannabinoid pathway: Anywhere in this pathway UVB
(320 nm - 290 nm) does a better job than UVA (400 nm - 320 nm) in energizing a phytochemical reaction that will produce more fully realized THC because "all cannabinolic compounds show an absorption maximum between 270 and 280 nm in the ultraviolet region."

(6) Capitate-stalked glandular trichome.

(7) #1: The ovum has been fertilized and there is a seed developing: In the areas of the Northern Hemisphere where indigenous people have grown heterozygous drug-type marijuana for hundreds of years, pollination is used to trigger the growth of the capitate-stalked glandular trichome on the floral bract and concomitant leaves of the flowering females before the autumnal equinox(a) so the majority of seeds will be ripe(b) before November.

(7) #2: The floral bract has become parthenocarpic: Parthenocarpic fruits develop without fertilization and have no seeds. Except for transmutation and turning lead into gold, there has been more nonsense written about seedless marijuana than on any other subject. In marijuana parthenocarpy, the floral bract (the fruit) enlarges in size as though there were a seed growing inside, and the capitate-stalked glandular trichome is triggered into growth on the floral bract and concomitant leaves. "Most popular supermarket tomatoes are parthenocarpic which was induced artificially by the application of dilute hormone sprays (such as auxins) to the flowers." In a trial, marijuana parthenocarpy was not induced by the application of the spray used on tomatoes. Only the photoperiod(c) will trigger parthenocarpy in flowering female marijuana plants. Marijuana parthenocarpy occurring before the autumnal equinox is considered by the author to be "long-day" and marijuana parthenocarpy occurring after the autumnal equinox to be "short-day".

The longest photoperiod that will trigger parthenocarpy in unfertilized flowering homozygous(d) Indica female marijuana plants is 13:00 hours, give or take 15 minutes. This effect can be obtained in the month of August at N35Lat, and because the capitate-stalked glandular trichomes received plenty of UVB during this month at this latitude, the harvested resin spheres had fully realized THC. Rating: euphoria and hallucinations, major appetite boost and pain relief, deep dreamless sleep. These plants seldom grow taller than four feet but potency makes up for the reduced harvest.

The gene pool is heterozygous if a flowering female marijuana plant is not parthenocarpic by the end of the first week in September in the Northern Hemisphere. If this is the case, pollination is used instead of parthenocarpy to trigger the growth of the capitate-stalked glandular trichome before the autumnal equinox to obtain as much fully realized THC as possible in the harvested resin spheres by the time the majority of the seeds are ripe.

The longest photoperiod that will trigger parthenocarpy in unfertilized flowering heterozygous female marijuana plants is 11:00 hours, give or take 15 minutes: This effect can be obtained in the month of November at N35Lat. Because of the low intensity of UVB radiation at this latitude at sea level during November, the harvested resin spheres evidenced only slightly more THC than precursor compounds. Rating: mild to medium euphoria, appetite boost and pain relief, good snooze.

Thai marijuana falls into this 11:00 hour category, and its parthenocarpy is characterized by an inflorescence in which many floral bracts are attached to an elongated meristem. It is these elongated meristems that are harvested to become a THAI STICK. On the other side of the world, Mexican marijuana grown around the same latitudes (Michoacan, Guerrero, Oaxaca) also falls into this short-day parthenocarpic category and the unfertilized marijuana will become "sensimilla" in the 11:00 hour photoperiod which begins in mid-December in that region. The winter sunshine in those latitudes has more UVB intensity than the winter sunshine at N35Lat.

All unfertilized flowering female marijuana plants will become parthenocarpic in a 9:00 hour photoperiod (15:00 hour dark period): This can be obtained in the month of December at N35Lat. At this latitude in this month there is not even enough UVB in sunlight for precursor vitamin D3 to develop in human skin. The phytochemical process will not produce THC whenever the UVB and UVA photons in the light stream fall below a certain level of intensity expressed in µW/cm2. Rating: no effect.

(a)In the Northern Hemisphere above the Tropic of Cancer, the key to all marijuana potency is this: The more days of sunlight the capitate-stalked glandular trichomes' resin spheres accumulate before the autumnal equinox the more fully realized THC.

(b)It is recognized in the indigenous world that drug-type marijuana with a majority of ripe seeds will produce more euphoria, hallucinations, appetite stimulation, pain relief, and sleep aid than with a majority of unripe seeds.

(c)The photoperiodic response is controlled by phytochrome. "Phytochrome is a blue pigment in the leaves and seeds of plants and is found in 2 forms. One form is a blue form(Pfr), which absorbs red light, and the other is a blue-green form(Pr) that absorbs far-red light. Solar energy has 10X more red (660nm) than far-red (730nm) light causing the accumulation of Pfr." The first and last hour of a day's sunlight is mostly red light because of the scattering effect on blue light. "So at the onset of the dark period much of the phytochrome is in the Pfr form. However, Pfr is unstable and returns to phytochrome Pr in the dark." The red light in sunrise returns the Pr to the Pfr form. "Phytochrome Pfr is the active form and controls flowering and germination. It inhibits flowering of short-day plants (the long night period is required for the conversion of Pfr to Pr) and promotes flowering of long day plants."

(d)In Nepal and nearby areas of India where the capitate-stalked glandular trichome is triggered into growth by parthenocarpy rather than by fertilized ovum, great care is taken to make sure that all male marijuana plants are destroyed as soon as they reveal their sex. This is because unfertilized Indica flowering females can have both stigma and anther protruding from the floral bract. In the Indica gene pool, female-produced pollen carries an allele for long-day parthenocarpy, and seeds resulting from this female-produced pollen will produce another generation of female plants that will also exhibit long-day parthenocarpy during flowering. But if pollen from male plants is introduced into this gene pool, the resulting seeds will produce a generation of females that will exhibit short-day parthenocarpy instead. The allele for long-day parthenocarpy in the female-produced pollen is carried into the gene pool by self-pollination and cross-pollination, and perhaps homozygous is used too loosely here to describe the genetic result.

(8) It appears that the resin sphere acts as an UVB receptor and magnifying lens. The latter apparently lets it gather in a lot more photons than would otherwise be possible; because a lens also acts as a prism, the resin sphere may prevent some wavelengths from being focused where the phytochemical processes are taking place because they could interfere with the efficiency of the phytochemical process that makes THC.

Joe Knuc is a pseudonym. If the paragraph or sentence in Marijuana Optics has quotes around it, then somebody probably with a degree wrote it. As for the rest, it was all written by Joe Knuc and the views expressed are his alone except where indicated.

Copyright (c) 2002 (rev. 2006) Joe Knuc.

 

[robotwithdreams]

thanks for clearing that.

Does anyone have charts of uvb readings for around the world? I remember seeing sort of a map somewhere.

 

[l33t]

See the youtube vid I think thats where you saw it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPcpt3Be28o

 

[messn'n'gommin']

I found a very useful site that may be helpfull for others here. This site tested various uv bulbs including the 40 watt reptile fluro, which seems to be quite popular with folks here.

The purpose was to guage the strength of the uvb rays and see if there was any link to some issues customers were having with their reptiles.

There are all kinds of useful charts with their results.

I,too, before reading this thought that their was no way a 40 watt fluro could put oout any substantial intensity. Happy to find out i was wrong, so check it out:

http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-tests.htm .

Bookmarked! Thank you, RWD!

Namaste, mess

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

I found a very useful site that may be helpfull for others here. This site tested various uv bulbs including the 40 watt reptile fluro, which seems to be quite popular with folks here.

The purpose was to guage the strength of the uvb rays and see if there was any link to some issues customers were having with their reptiles.

There are all kinds of useful charts with their results.

I,too, before reading this thought that their was no way a 40 watt fluro could put oout any substantial intensity. Happy to find out i was wrong, so check it out:

http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-tests.htm .

nice man! i looked for a while and couldnt find that article.. i had read it here several years ago, and had subsiquently learned about the 'desert' UVB lights i keep recomending, there not in stock usualy, so ull have to order and wait, atleast i havent found one. i looked at the price, because the 'desert' is more $$, so i figured id try the glo at first and if it helped id move up to the desert.
good info guys.

 

[gramsci.antonio]

whats wrong with people???
do some more reading before saying things that make u look stupid....

the only one that looks stupid here is you and your friends. The problem is that you need a minimum understanding of physics to see that: but i understand that it is too much for someone that barely finished the high school.



In the meanwhile, i'll post you something that you should have studied in high school, instead of smoking crack in a dark alley:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-slit_experiment

and for a deeper understanding:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huygens–Fresnel_principle

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffraction_formalism

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

the only one that looks stupid here is you and your friends. The problem is that you need a minimum understanding of physics to see that: but i understand that it is too much for someone that barely finished the high school.



In the meanwhile, i'll post you something that you should have studied in high school, instead of smoking crack in a dark alley:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-slit_experiment

and for a deeper understanding:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huygens–Fresnel_principle

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffraction_formalism

thats funny, i actualy got a 3.8 GPA in college to get my bachelors.
but what do thoes wiki articles have to do with UVB and trichombes?

i didnt see a word on ripening, or light, i dont see what quantum theories has to do with uvb light?

atleast were staying on topic.

 

[l33t]

Some guesswork here..

I think Gramsci.antonio wants to say something about destructive (wave) interference and why this phenomenon affects the Uvb levels that (lowers them) finally do reach/hit the plants when a specific uv light type is used in conjunction with HPS lights.

Thats what I make out of his first post..Perhaps I'm wrong.

 

[gramsci.antonio]

Some guesswork here..

I think Gramsci.antonio wants to say something about destructive (wave) interference and why this phenomenon affects the Uvb levels that (lowers them) finally do reach/hit the plants when a specific uv light type is used in conjunction with HPS lights.

Thats what I make out of his first post..Perhaps I'm wrong.

yeah you are right.

If someone needs it, i can put on a mathematical formalism.

Anyhow the idea is that UVB is on the right shift of phase to interfer with the red peak of the HPS.

Since they don't come from the same light source, and since the light from the HID shift a lot (on norm) of phase, the destructive interference is great, and can be calculated using the huygens principle.

Since the usual UV lamps emits very few UVB, and in norm we can consider them as an O(1) of the ~660 nm emitted, almost all of them are lost. This is also why neon/floros weed is stronger, and with them the UVB lamps are way more effective, since the light is steady (very very small phaseshift) and interfer WAY LESS with uvb band..

Maybe with the new HIGH UVB lamp, since a greater ammount of UVB is emitted, a greater ammount is used by the lamp.

But i need to analyze some more data, and actually i'm a bit busy.

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

yeah you are right.

If someone needs it, i can put on a mathematical formalism.

Anyhow the idea is that UVB is on the right shift of phase to interfer with the red peak of the HPS.

Since they don't come from the same light source, and since the light from the HID shift a lot (on norm) of phase, the destructive interference is great, and can be calculated using the huygens principle.

Since the usual UV lamps emits very few UVB, and in norm we can consider them as an O(1) of the ~660 nm emitted, almost all of them are lost. This is also why neon/floros weed is stronger, and with them the UVB lamps are way more effective, since the light is steady (very very small phaseshift) and interfer WAY LESS with uvb band..

Maybe with the new HIGH UVB lamp, since a greater ammount of UVB is emitted, a greater ammount is used by the lamp.

But i need to analyze some more data, and actually i'm a bit busy.

~i wouldnt think %100 would be lost to interfearance, even if %10 reach there goal(trichombes) thats still ten-fold MORE uvb then the 1K HPS by itself. [these numbers are all guessed and rounded for proper comparison.] if the blue from the UVB can be seen at canopy then one could assume the UVB might get there in equal or lesser intensity, making my sugestion for the strongest, %10 'desert' Tube, almost mandatory.

that has to be THE strongest plant iv ever smoken, homegrown, under MH, HPS and UVB. 10 weeks of sativa/hybrid goodness.


~running the UVB only for 3 or 4 hours in the middle of the plants day also dosent interfear with sunset, and sunrise. as i have been doing from the start.
also tried a blacklight, that i will agree has no effect.


if UVB is worthless why are all the CMH gardeners RANTING AND RAVING about there bulbs like the world was coming to an end?
what do they say?
'strongest weed ever grown',
'stoniest ive ever gotten this strain',
and 'i was coutchlocked for hours' check out the CMH thread.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=72215

 

[Guest]

Antonio, I think you are missing the point altogether, and no, fluoro weed is not stronger. But one thing I will say, your arrogant, dismissive attitude is totally unwarranted so go away, be busy and come back when you've dropped the bad attitude.

Getting back to UV, I've got five different wavelengths UV sources - 365nm fluoro tube, 380nm LEDs, 390nm LEDs, 400nm LEDs and 410nm LEDs, so I'm going to experiment with them and see what effect, if any they have.

 

[dontstepongrass]

well i do use only fluoro's so this wouldn't discourage me at all...

digi seems to have his shit on lock and after seeing his grows and the type of advice he gives out i find it childish that would accuse him of smokin crack instead of attending school or whatever you said.

this isn't a pissing match kids. this is the internet. a tool for information and global commerce (don't forget porn lol) please learn to use it accordingly and stop using up bandwidth on things that aren't going to lead to better plants being grown.