Using a wood moisture meter to check rh of drying buds

[Dabbert Globberfield]

Heyo, somewhere along the line I read about people using these moisture meters to check the moisture content in drying buds/stems to determine if they would be ready for jarring.

I probably should have saved the page or payed more attention to where I read about this. Does any one use these types of meters to check moisture content prior to jarring?

What is the % I should be looking for? iirc it should be something like 10-14% when checked?

Also, is this how I am supposed to use this meter?

The photo is from right after harvest.

 

[TopCream]

I've heard 11% from the company grove bags

 

[Dabbert Globberfield]

Yea and I was looking around after I asked this and people jam the probes into the actual buds, not the stems. Lol... not sure how I feel about stabbing the buds like this but hey... I get to probe something.

this is a screenshot photo from a youtube video

 

[exploziv]

I think I would gather more info by touch and smell than you can by this method. Those meters are calibrated by wood kind and need to be used in a certain way, on the grain end of the wood. So it must be some kind of wildly inacurate stoner metod, since they are used badly and randomly on diferent parts.

 

[exploziv]

I think I would gather more info by touch and smell than you can by this method. Those meters are calibrated by wood kind and need to be used in a certain way, on the grain end of the wood. So it must be some kind of wildly inacurate stoner metod, since they are used badly and randomly on diferent parts of the plant.

 

[TopCream]

I have to agree with exploziv. I have a wood meter but it's not the most useful really.

I have a 4S system. When the stems on the buds make an audible snap, when a joint stays lit and smoking after you stop hitting it, when it smells good after jarring and the first burp, and it squishes and reverts back to shape quickly.

 

[Tomatoesonly]

In the thread I was reading, different woods had different settings on the meter. Is that still a thing?

 

[Dabbert Globberfield]

I intend to use this meter in conjunction with other methods for assessing whether or not buds are ready for jarring. I am interested to hear from people who have used or are actively using these types of meters.

The meter I have has 7 modes and it is not exclusive to wood.

m1 - Beech, spruce, larch, birch, cherry, walnut
m2 - Oak, pine, maple, ash, douglas fir, eucalyptus
m3 - cement mortar layer, concrete
m4 - anhydrous gypsum, mortar layer
m5 - cement mortar
m6 - lime mortar, gypsum
m7 - bricks

Realistically, it is a meter designed specifically for testing moisture content within material. If, let's say the meter gets used every time before you jar and the readings are always the same %, 11% as an example, wouldn't this then just be an easier way to probe and jar without any guesswork or other methods for determining whether or not the flower is ready for curing?

 

[Tomatoesonly]

Realistically, it is a meter designed specifically for testing moisture content within material. If, let's say the meter gets used every time before you jar and the readings are always the same %, 11% as an example, wouldn't this then just be an easier way to probe and jar without any guesswork or other methods for determining whether or not the flower is ready for curing?

Seems reasonable to me.
I don't understand how it could check moisture of "bud"... loose stuff. Seems it would want a stem or something solid.. right?

 

[moose eater]

Perhaps a measurement from the center of an average or mediium size bud, average or medium size stem, and the old olfactory test, as welll as finger-snap methods on the stems, all combined.

More tools for assessing might mean more better informaiton.

And as in all things, a person often gets what they pay for. Not always, but often. Cheaper meters might not be as accurate as better made meters. often reflected in price... and reviews.

 

[JKD]

There're also pinless probes.

 

[smilley]

Try these.

 

[Taima-da]

Iirc @ProfessorLefty has been using one on their cob cures.
Seems like a good idea.
Under 12% but above 10% moisture is ideal for storage I think. So 11% would be bang on if the reading is good.
Certainly that's the range for other dried comestibles (grains, pulses etc) to avoid mould.
Active water content is also a consideration for best long term storage. For example if your jar is left in the sun that 11% moisture starts moving about, potentially creating pooling and associated problems.

 

[ProfessorLefty]

Update on the cob tests—made 4 different cobs in January, taken at 50%, 40%, 35%, and 30% of harvest weight.

The 50% and 40% cobs developed mold in by the end of the month, the 35% had visible mold after 3 months, and the 30% cob is still mold-free (pictured here—it was nearly completely dry by the end of February though).

Added a few drops of grain alcohol to the 35% cob to see if that eliminates the mold

 

[ProfessorLefty]

Iirc @ProfessorLefty has been using one on their cob cures.
Seems like a good idea.
Under 12% but above 10% moisture is ideal for storage I think. So 11% would be bang on if the reading is good.
Certainly that's the range for other dried comestibles (grains, pulses etc) to avoid mould.
Active water content is also a consideration for best long term storage. For example if your jar is left in the sun that 11% moisture starts moving about, potentially creating pooling and associated problems.

Haven’t had the opportunity to use the moisture meter yet, but I got a couple plants going right now— flipping to 12/12 today, should be ready by the end of May (barring disaster)

 

[Sasult]

I can see it being helpful. I would take a plant and do some testing, like 15 bud readings on each setting and 15 stem readings on each setting. Record the numbers and see what setting was most consistent for each location.
Since it was not designed for this the accuracy might be off, but if you find a way to get consistent answers the information is still useful.

 

[ProfessorLefty]

I can see it being helpful. I would take a plant and do some testing, like 15 bud readings on each setting and 15 stem readings on each setting. Record the numbers and see what setting was most consistent for each location.
Since it was not designed for this the accuracy might be off, but if you find a way to get consistent answers the information is still useful.

I stole the idea from someone who stole it from ed rosenthgal, lol—he recommends using the “softwood” setting, my meter was giving numbers similar to his:

​

Proposed moisture readings for various humidity levels of processing and smoking:​

Drying ends: 14-15%

Curing ends: 11-12%

Pleasant smoke: 10-12%

Harsh dry smoke: 10% or less


For cobs, I’m thinking maybe sweat around 14-15%, then dry slowly to around 12% for a long cure? Probably I’ll make 3-4 small cobs and bracket these numbers

 

[Hiddenjems]

The best way I found to get consistent results is going by weight.

My trimmed wet buds go on racks in the drying room. That room is 60-65* and desired humidity of the final product, climate controlled. When samples go 24 hours without losing weight, it’s ready to bag and store.

 

[More Overkill]

this is a screenshot photo from a youtube video

I bought one of those and only used it once.
Maybe i'm not so stupid after all.

 

[Ca++]

The best way I found to get consistent results is going by weight.

My trimmed wet buds go on racks in the drying room. That room is 60-65* and desired humidity of the final product, climate controlled. When samples go 24 hours without losing weight, it’s ready to bag and store.

I run a little drier, but much the same.
Our buds can't get drier than the environment they are in. So your buds are drying down to curing levels, then staying at curing levels. Some might get their sooner, but they are a batch. They don't need individual probing. They will all get there within a day or two of each other. Then stay there, until you remove them.
If that RH in your drying space is automated, they you really don't need to do anything.

I think 58% is right, but work at 60-62 myself. 65% is creeping back into the mold zone. The numbers on bovida? packs are a useful guide