Unofficial Coco Coir Growers Thread

[Guest]

crazy leaf :imo it is N deficiency but could be anything n one of the plants, try to give much more food.Coco doesn't hold nutrients, your plants now need regular fertilizing .

I bought a GH liquid ph test, 8$, that solved ALL my problems...

 

[h g]

......with a few 100ml of water and 1ml of A+B (each) and the third week with a few 100ml's of water and 2ml each of A+B , at first i was thinking nute burn or overwatering , now im kinda thinking nitrogen def. , i cant get pics unfortunatly , any help is appreciated

dont have any pH tester what-so-ever , getting one soon i guess

1000ml = 1 litre

u should be using 1 or 2 ml of A+B in 1000ml of water not a few 100ml so im thinking nute burn

edited to add

spend money on a decent Ph tester. Liquid test kits are ok if u have no money but they are not that accurate.

pH levels are very important because if the Ph is too high several of the micronutrients become less available for plant uptake whilst with a low pH other micronutrients become too readily available, resulting in a plant toxicity.

 

[EddieShoestring]

Here's a few more coco garden pics-the two plants at the back under the screen are Serious Bubblegum ; the ones on the left in the waste paper bins are K2 cuts-

the second pic shows the method-15L/3 gall buckets with Canna coco and 30% pearlite-at the base of the buckets is a layer of pure pearlite a few inches thick with a pice of speader mat under that to stop the pearlite comming out of the holes in the bottom of the buckets-and the buckets sit in trays filled , again, with a few inches of pearlite. The run off runs into these trays and the roots have followed it so that a matt is forming in the pearlite.

third shot shows the waste paper bin set up-one bin inside the other with holes in the inner bin-the plants in the bins are K2

fourth and fifith shots are of one of the scrogged Bubblegums-above and below

the room had 30h of darkness before going into 12/12 2 days ago-feed has been Canna Coco (ec 1.4) ish /ph 5.8-6.1 have just stopped with Rhitzo and am now adding a double dose of Cannazyme for a week or two.

Finally-the garden had a foliar feed of Halo a few weeks ago while in veg and am wondering whether to give them another hit at the begining of flower

hope the pics upload ok-
es

 

[Crazy Leaf]

1000ml = 1 litre

u should be using 1 or 2 ml of A+B in 1000ml of water not a few 100ml so im thinking nute burn

edited to add

spend money on a decent Ph tester. Liquid test kits are ok if u have no money but they are not that accurate.

pH levels are very important because if the Ph is too high several of the micronutrients become less available for plant uptake whilst with a low pH other micronutrients become too readily available, resulting in a plant toxicity.

ill be sure to do that , ALSO , i transplanted , im pretty damn sure it was rootbound , probable cause of yellowing etc.?

 

[Blatant]

ok guys need help urgently , for the last few days the bottom leaves have problems , theres a sort of yellow/lime tint coming through , some of em have yellowy/brownish patches & are kinda brittle around those patches , edges of some of the leaves are going yellowy/brown , new growth seems to have some bits of leaves missing , ive fed twice , one at around 2 weeks with a few 100ml of water and 1ml of A+B (each) and the third week with a few 100ml's of water and 2ml each of A+B , at first i was thinking nute burn or overwatering , now im kinda thinking nitrogen def. , i cant get pics unfortunatly , any help is appreciated

dont have any pH tester what-so-ever , getting one soon i guess

Crazy my Brutha read my previous post, I think you are locking out your Nutes due to Quick Evaporation, Overfeeding, & what may be PH fluctuation due to no PH tester. If a Plant is Yellowing at the Bottom it is almost always One of Three things. Either your PH is off (Most Common). Locking your Nutes out due to High PPM's or Rootbound. PH will definitely screw your world up if your running Hydro which can Lock out the Nutrients leading to Necrosis (the symptom you described). I would doubt its Rootbound I can pull 3 zips off a Gallon Pot filled with Coco easy. Coco is hard to rootbind. Hope that helps.

PS:Whats your Rooms conditions thru a day?

Blatant

 

[Guest]

ok guys need help urgently , for the last few days the bottom leaves have problems , theres a sort of yellow/lime tint coming through , some of em have yellowy/brownish patches & are kinda brittle around those patches , edges of some of the leaves are going yellowy/brown , new growth seems to have some bits of leaves missing , ive fed twice , one at around 2 weeks with a few 100ml of water and 1ml of A+B (each) and the third week with a few 100ml's of water and 2ml each of A+B , at first i was thinking nute burn or overwatering , now im kinda thinking nitrogen def. , i cant get pics unfortunatly , any help is appreciated

dont have any pH tester what-so-ever , getting one soon i guess

relax....sounds like a MG deficiency to me. Very common when growing with coco. Dissolve a teaspoon of epsom salts in some warm water...then mix it in gallon of water. Water your plants with this mix a few times for the next week or so. Keep doing this until you see an improvement. You should pick up some cal-mag max. It contains no nitrogen, which most of the other cal-mag mixes do.

I use coco specific nutes, but still run into mg problems if I don't stay on top of it. MJ likes lots of mg.

Cheers,
SH

 

[h g]

ill be sure to do that , ALSO , i transplanted , im pretty damn sure it was rootbound , probable cause of yellowing etc.?

in my experience rootbound plants show twisted leaves. i agree with what Suburbanhomeboy says regarding mg

are you using rhizotonic and cannazym as well?

i use

1ml/l of A+B. If the plants look hungry i increase the amount

1ml/l rhizotonic in veg then 0.5ml/l when flowering

2.5ml/l cannazym

 

[bongoman]

Hey hg

Any reason you are using only half the recommended Canna suggested minimum?

 

[Crazy Leaf]

thanks for the suggestions , ill be sure to give em a try asap , although , now that i think of it , the plant really slowed down in growth , for the past few days it just really bushing around the stem , i really do think rootbound(ness) played some part in this. regardless , ill give the epsom salts a try , pick up cal-mag when i got money

using nothing other than A+B , picking up some PK 13/14 for flowering , im on a real tight budget in general.

 

[Guest]

get a ph tester it will solve your problem.I'm poor too, "on a real tight budget" if you prefer I'd not pay 150$ for a ph tester, but the liquid tester is 8$ , and precise enough to make your plants healthy.
ph test : 8$
make a bottle of plant food, and with the regular dose (the one canna tells you to apply), PH corrected (around 5.9).
flood the coco with that water on one plant, see what happens the next few days.
Once it is finished, you'll have watered your plants correctly joking, I hope one of our replies help you.

 

[Crazy Leaf]

im definetely getting a pH tester , no doubt about that , gonna pick one up tomorrow.

 

[UVrays]

CANNA GrowGuide!

CANNA GrowGuide!

Hello to all the Coco gang,
I'm in a bit of a dilemma here as there Feed guide IE "CANNA" does not bring in to the equation any type of delay by manipulating your grow? I guess its a case of test & try with some common sense. But for the record it would be interesting for any of the guys/gals in this thread if they could elaborate/enlighten us that like to maximize our bushes true full growth potential for "MAX" yield. What sort of regime are you using when your veg stage has been slowed some? in my case FIMing out. What would be the best feeding regime under these circumstances any input at all from fellow FIMers?

How accurate is the CANNA Grow and Feed guide posted here in this thread when you are manipulating your clones for FIM? Typically 4th Node FIMed @ about 4 weeks 18/6 using there guide with good results CANNA A&B with Rizitonic in pure CANNA Coco.

 

[Bramski]

Hey guys have any of you used Atami Bcuzz coco Nutrients? I am using them but i've never grown from seed in coco before and I dont know when to hit these little suckas or how much to hit them with.

I've just been giving these seedlings Rhizotonic up until 2 days ago I gave them a splash of nutes at 350ppm. They're about 10 days old apart from 2 or 3 who are playing catchup from late germination. They seem to be healthy but growth isn't as fast as I would like and they're a bit on the pale side. basically they seem to be asking for more nutes as far as I can tell but I'm a Butcher when it comes to seedlings and I can't afford to lose these.

The Atami nutes are in dutch and I can't read past english but it's saying 1-3ml a&b per litre. 1ml a&b gives a reading of 500ppm.


Whudya think coco nuts? start dooshing them at (1ml/l) 500ppm? (1ml/l)

 

[Guest]

I'm convinced, your going to have a new coco convert very very soon! Thanks for great posts and great guidance, I been following along for a bit.

The thing is I tried coco before and it just did not retain enough water for me and I went back to pure organic FoxFarm Ocean Forest with Organic Promix to mix, but thats just ok too.

"I didn't flush the first time i tried or water enough (frequency)!!"

This time I am using a hydrohut instead of an open space and I tell you, water retention is important and I am excited about trying the new botanicare coco product and work it out!

I'll be back in 30 days! In the meantime I'll be chanting for more great coco grows on icmag.

Nam-myoho-renge-kyo!

 

[-VT-]

I have the same thing goin' on....I've decided to start feeding mine....my belief is that the mix is hot....in my case....I already have flushed with RO....now I am slippin' the "hydro-organic" juice to them. I am not afraid of losing them because as long as I feed at low ppm's they will respond...no matter how ugly they get....I had one plant get locked out real bad...and is recovering nicely now.....and I think it's a female lol

Depending on the coco application you're using (not all the same...in fact on opposite sides of the continuum as far as approach goes it seems), I'd say go for a low ppm solution (I'd do 100 PPM) and go for the NFT effect BLATANT has aptly described, and water frequently. I like the hydro application because with more frequent waterings.... we can fix problems faster...and IMO feed more effciently...we don't have to "wait for the next watering"....this is just my

Let us know what you decide. If you decide not to feed...it will be interesting to see the results of each respective approach....becuase I have the same thing you have going on now....(didn't have this issue with fresh pure innoculated 100% Botanicare coco with my Casey Jones FWIW)

good luck to us both

Lookin' forward to others' input

EDIT: Tough to water frequently in a 100% coco mix though....especially if it's amended with vermiculite....

 

[Guest]

I've noticed that the young'uns are always a bit vulnerable in any hydro set up compared to soil. Even the clones that I just planted in rinsed coco using canna nuts to specifications look a lil pale and seem to have a longer transition period compared the lil ones put into a soil mix.

I have 30 clones that went into coco. 15 in canna and the others in b'cuzz coco. I also have 3 of the same cuttins in soil and the soil cuts always look great right from the start while the coco/hydro clones have a period of adjustment time where they look okay but not perfect like the soil clones do. not sure what the reason is.. I do know that once the hydro cuts get comfy they'll kick ass. I'll put up some sample pics tomorrow.

 

[-VT-]

here's some pics

here's some pics

great post Gronut Looking forward to seeing those results unfold....

I am not afraid of losing them because as long as I feed at low ppm's they will respond...no matter how ugly they get....I had one plant get locked out real bad...and is recovering nicely now.....and I think it's a female lol

Before....



After....



peace

​

 

[HYDROJUNKIE]

vt I had that same problem in the past and it was that my ph was too high,....I try to keep it under 6.3....

I make my batches of nutes in a 40 gallon garbage and check ph with Flairform liquid ph test,...and imo is very accurate.
I also have a $200 tri meter that gets so outta wack every month or so it has found a new home in a shoebox...everyone should always have a liquid test to compare results with their digital meters....you'd be surprised to notice how often the results dont match up.

im currently running 3 grows with botanicare coco,canna coco and profit disk pucks....
it'll be interesting to see the results.

Im getting the quickest growth from the profit disks so far,...probably because of the high 02 content in the root zone....very labor intensive though as far as breaking up the pucks....if one has a small grow it wouldnt be so bad however....



heres how the puck comes


after warm water is added

 

[Crazy Leaf]

i can use A+B through flowering , right? i plan on using A+B and PK 13/14 only.

 

[bongoman]

Crazy Leaf: Yeah, just A+B throughout, plus as you mention some P/K.

As someone posted above, this is a really useful guide: http://www.canna-uk.com/dhtml/growschedule/index.php

I'm about to go shopping for some Rhizotonic and Cannazyme today. I'm gonna leave out the P/K as I'm only growing some LowRyder #2 (an F4 cross of LR x Santa Maria) which are so fast they won't probably need it.