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Top Pick: CO2 Sensor + Controller Combo Unit

Hey y'all, I'm hunting around online and found quite a number of CO2 sensor/controller combo units all within the $200-300 price range.

Anyone have experience with anyone of them? Or others that they'd recommend? These are the ones I've come across:

$285 -- Blueprint CO2 Controller, BCC-1
https://www.amazon.com/BluePrint-Blueprint-CO2-Controller-BCC-1/dp/B00FY3DR2Q
$235 -- Titan Controls 702618 Atlas 2 Preset Carbon Dioxide Gas Monitor and Controller
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Controls-702618-Dioxide-Controller/dp/B00819A642
$235 -- iGS-100 - Day and night CO2 Controller with Auxiliary Output https://www.amazon.com/iGS-100-night-Controller-Auxiliary-Output/dp/B01GEUT0G4
$230 -- AutoPilot Digital Garden Temp Co2 Environmental Controller w/ Sensor | APCETHD https://www.amazon.com/AutoPilot-Digital-Environmental-Controller-65234R3FA622838/dp/B01M97WO23
$230 -- Autopilot PPM-5 Co2 Monitor & Controller with Remote Sensor
https://www.amazon.com/Autopilot-Monitor-Controller-Remote-Sensor/dp/B06W9JR812
$220 -- Analog CO2 Controller with Remote Probe - Autopilot APCECO https://www.amazon.com/Analog-CO2-Controller-Remote-Probe/dp/B00CJJ78FU
$205 -- Grozone Controls USCO2 0-2000 PPM Single Zone Ultra Simple CO2 Controller for Plants https://www.amazon.com/Grozone-Controls-0-2000-Single-Controller/dp/B00HP37BFM
$200 -- CO2Meter RAD-0501 Day Night CO2 Monitor and Controller for Greenhouses, Grey
https://www.amazon.com/CO2Meter-RAD-0501-Monitor-Controller-Greenhouses/dp/B017847K76
$185 -- Autopilot APCETHD Digital Environmental Controller with Remote Probe
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Environmental-Controller-Remote-Probe/dp/B008NNPYKM


Any experiences, tips, or input would be immensely appreciated!
 
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JJ Lowe

Active member
Bottle or burner? I use bottle with a timer. I initially planned on adding a controller but I find it's really easy to dial in the timer as needed. (along with a co2 monitor).
 
Hey thanks for the reply JJ.

For now gonna have it with a 50lb bottle. Later get a burner.

you have it on a short cycle timer? that seems feasible. Then you use the monitor to dial in your PPM's on average? What kind of monitor do you suggest? i want it to be accurate without breaking the bank.

I was thinking use a controller on a basic mechanical timer so that it only kicks on during day hours but with your method I could even put a short cycle on top of the mechanical timer.
 

JJ Lowe

Active member
I've got a digital timer with photo sensor for daytime only operation. I used this room calculator and it's really spot on..

https://growershouse.com/co2-calculator-for-grow-rooms

I use the autopilot co2 sensor. You could even get by without a sensor. Just use the bottle, room calculator, and timer.... the sensor is nice though just to confirm.
My 20lb bottle last around 2.5 weeks 10x10 room.
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
For $125--this is the one I like, CAP PPM-4: https://www.amazon.com/P-Custom-Automated-Products-PPM4/dp/B00480H93O?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00480H93O

It has 2 parts, the "brain" and the "outlet". The "brain" measures the CO2 (placed inside the grow environment) and is wired to the "outlet" (turn on/off the electric solenoid valve on your CO2 tank). There is adequate wire length to place the "outlet" and CO2 tanks outside the grow environment. You will need to plug the "outlet into a timer, which is perfect for me. About 2 hours before lights off is the time I do my daily maintenance in the flower room--so to avoid wasting CO2 (as I go in and out) I have the timer set for 10 hours--instead of 12 hours.

It is preprogrammed to maintain CO2 level at 1450 PPM and asy to calibrate...but you can not change the PPM level to a different amount. It is 1450 or nothing (I'm OK with that).

There is NO photocell...and that is exactly what I got. I did not want my "dirty" CO2 tanks in mingle among with my flowering ladies...and that is exactly what I got. I did not want to spend over $200...and that is exactly what I got.
 

caljim

I'm on the edge. Of what I'm not sure.
Veteran
Doctime420..the dead band on the unit is kinda wide...900 to 1450..thats a big swing..
From the list I liked the Auto pilot ppm5, for the tighter dead band, and the Rad 0501 for its to the ppm adjustability.

All that being said..I have been using a CAP "fuzzy logic" controller since 2003. A lot of their stuff was junk...this thing keeps on ticking.
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
Doctime420..the dead band on the unit is kinda wide...900 to 1450..thats a big swing..
From the list I liked the Auto pilot ppm5, for the tighter dead band, and the Rad 0501 for its to the ppm adjustability.

All that being said..I have been using a CAP "fuzzy logic" controller since 2003. A lot of their stuff was junk...this thing keeps on ticking.

Actually (from the instructions), "Switching set point factory set to 1450 PPM with 50 PPM hysteresis/dead-band". (Not the 900-1450 you thought.)

"When levels are below 1400 PPM (a 50 PPM hysteresis/dead-band), the plug-in controller will power the CO2 generation source. When levels exceeds 1450 the controller deactivates the power at the plug-in controller."

You might say...the 3 LED indicators (0-900 PPM, 901-1450 PPM, and 1451+ PPM) are for "looks". In other words, when the middle indicator is illuminated (901-1450 PPM), the plug-in controller can still be on (if CO2 PPM is less than 1400). This I have verified and observed.

Hope this helps!
 

Thanks very much for the recommendation! My only concern is that there are a lot of negative reviews on the product. I'd rather spend a little more and be less likely to deal with the possibility of a headache malfunctioning unit, then return shipping and risking a new one that's also defective.
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
That CO2 meter is cool and works like a champ; exact same one I borrowed to verify my PPM-4 controller. Just for the record, my PPM-4 has been in operation for about 2 & half years, and I have experienced zero issues thus far. No moving parts and easy to calibrate.

Good luck man! Originally I was going to go with the gas burner CO2 generator route, but...like you, did not like the reviews I heard. The problem I kept hearing were mainly about using CO2 generators were more problematic in indoor operations (which I am)--but less so in greenhouse operations (which I am not). Not sure why, maybe because indoor systems are more of a "closed system" (little to zero exchange of fresh air)...unlike "open" greenhouse structures (which normally experiences a greater amount of air exchange)....don't know, but that's my theory.
 
Good luck man! Originally I was going to go with the gas burner CO2 generator route, but...like you, did not like the reviews I heard. The problem I kept hearing were mainly about using CO2 generators were more problematic in indoor operations (which I am)--but less so in greenhouse operations (which I am not). Not sure why, maybe because indoor systems are more of a "closed system" (little to zero exchange of fresh air)...unlike "open" greenhouse structures (which normally experiences a greater amount of air exchange)....don't know, but that's my theory.

Thanks!

I think the main concerns about CO2 generators (Propane Burners) are as follows:

1. If the unit fails to burn the gas, and then if a safety mechanism doesn't stop it from continuining to release gas, that's huge risk. How often that combination happens I'm not sure about.
2. More common is releasing Carbon Monoxide if the flames are not bright white/blue/clear. But my space will have an adjacent "Lung Room" which will allow for some ventilation of normal air (when the burner is off during night cycle)
 
Carbon Monoxide Meter

Carbon Monoxide Meter

Just to be on the safeside, going to pick up a CO Carbon Monoxide Meter - anyone try one before?

This is the model i'm looking at
GXG-1987 - Handheld Carbon Monoxide Meter with High Precision CO Gas Tester Monitor Detector Gauge 0-1000ppm GM8805
https://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Monoxide-Precision-Detector-0-1000ppm/dp/B0174Q3RVG

"Health effects from exposure to CO levels of approximately 1 to 70 ppm are uncertain, but most people will not experience any symptoms. Some heart patients might experience an increase in chest pain. As CO levels increase and remain above 70 ppm, symptoms may become more noticeable (headache, fatigue, nausea). As CO levels increase above 150 to 200 ppm, disorientation, unconsciousness, and death are possible."
 

Bobby Boucher

Active member
Surprised to see anyone advocating C.A.P.

I dropped 600 on their fuzzy logic xgc-1e a few years back and it has all but fallen apart. Thermostat, hygrometer, light timer, short cycle timer, all completely gone to shit. The co2 sensor always seemed wacky af too.

Also, their 4kw lighting controller melted to shit after a few month of use. Could have burned my house down.

They have been out of business for years (assumedly because their products were shitty and hazardous) so customer support is also completely non-existent.

My $40 inkbird humidity/temp controllers have been whistling dixie in my tents keeping them within 1-2% of my target humidity and within 1-2 degrees of my target temps. Puts the $600 xgc to shame.
 

Bobby Boucher

Active member
1. If the unit fails to burn the gas, and then if a safety mechanism doesn't stop it from continuining to release gas, that's huge risk. How often that combination happens I'm not sure about.

This is why I run pencil torches set just on a pilot for co2. Even if the flame were extinguished, and the propane continued running, it would take ~12 hours to leak a 1/10 of a pound of gas, which isn't really a big deal in a larger area. I set the torches under big covered 3g water pots which seem to absorb and retain close to 100% of the heat.

I'm not really advocating that you run around and start playing with gas and fire, I'm just saying that I would never (again) want 20lb tanks or direct lines of gas in an indoor area that is already prone to fire, let alone having it all controlled by cheap chinese garbage. F'ing... disaster waiting to happen.
 
This is why I run pencil torches set just on a pilot for co2. Even if the flame were extinguished, and the propane continued running, it would take ~12 hours to leak a 1/10 of a pound of gas, which isn't really a big deal in a larger area. I set the torches under big covered 3g water pots which seem to absorb and retain close to 100% of the heat.

I'm not really advocating that you run around and start playing with gas and fire, I'm just saying that I would never (again) want 20lb tanks or direct lines of gas in an indoor area that is already prone to fire, let alone having it all controlled by cheap chinese garbage. F'ing... disaster waiting to happen.

yeaaaaa i agree, i agree. Any tips on a secondary "spark" system? something that I could have clamped a few inches away from the burners, within the unit, so that if the pilot dies that's like a safety mechanism?

I'm not sure if there's anyway to accomplish that. something like a grill starter (one of the sparking units) but how to put that on a plug so that it can be on a timer...?
 

Bobby Boucher

Active member
I've mulled over the option of using some sort of thermocoupling to somehow close the valve if the flame should become extinguished, or using some sort of automated system to turn the bottle on and off, but.. a couple quick "why-nots".

A: Modifying the system in such a way could spell trouble. The whole idea here is removing all the moving parts and pieces from the equation and utilizing a manual turn valve that is just barely open to begin with.

B: Opening the valve to the desired level is kind of a delicate process and would assumedly require a human touch.

C: So long as you have your pilot shielded from wind (and not directly in front of a fan), it's not going to be extinguished until the tank runs out of gas, ever. Use room temp water in your pots and condensation ever be a problem either.

It is kind of a pain in the dick manually turning the tanks on and off every day, but doing things any other way, the risks start to outweigh the reward in my mind. Then again, my paranoia borders the obscene and unhealthy. So.. take my skepticism with a grain of salt.

Edit: Sorry, I kinda glossed over your question. The element you are proposing to add would obviously pose no threat, but so long as you keep the pilot away from wind or water, it's simply not going to go out until your tank runs out of pressure, and even if it did you are only leaking a very minimal amount of gas, and only for a few hours until it's time for you to go and manually close your valves. So.. adding an automated sparker is more trouble than it's worth, imo.
 
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DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
...It is kind of a pain in the dick manually turning the tanks on and off every day, but doing things any other way, the risks start to outweigh the reward in my mind...

Who manually turns on/off CO2 tanks now days? Maybe Fred Flintstone...lol.
 

Bobby Boucher

Active member
..I obviously wouldn't go through the trouble if I was running bottled co2. I would put it on a controller and if it failed, oh well, my house isn't going to burn down or get blown off of its foundation and nobody is going to be hurt or killed.

I've ran the 4 burners on a controller and I lost a lot of sleep over it. $1k of equipment that now collects dust in my attic.

I'll just remember to pipe down next time. Everyone seems to know better here and has gotta be a f'n critic. Internet people.. I don't know why I bother.
 

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