Time Has arrived:Switching to organics..need advice!
- Thread starter dreadlock
- Start date
dreadlock
Member
what he said^...interesting list, can see it being handy soon 
thanks for listing your worm bin ingredients.
guys need some help with the worm bin,Had to re evaluate design plans since i want to use it for my garden. so had to go for something bigger.
Going to use a old hydro 90 liter water tub finally putting it to good use. dimension 82cm(l)x48cm(w) x 32cm(h). My plan to start of small and get more experience before getting something bigger was short lived.. decided to just start of with a big one. Is this size ok or too big?
information on worms say when first building the bedding it shouldn't be too deep as you continue to add more materials later as they consume. If too deep then the bottom will not get processed, true?
Finding it hard to source any cow/horse manure, will have to look around.
is it important to let the worm bin cook before adding worms?
So far the list of ingredients for the bedding:
coco coir
peat moss
shredded brown paper bags
cut up cardboard
dry grass
compost soil(miracle grow used in the garden)
egg shells
pretty sure i'm missing a few more ingredients for bedding. slightly confused here.. at which point do we add the fruit food material? is the bedding basically the whole worm medium or just a lower portion. I keep reading more bedding is good as it's where worms rest etc so just want to make sure i get the part right.
will skip collecting the juice for now until i can establish a good bin...
thanks for listing your worm bin ingredients.guys need some help with the worm bin,Had to re evaluate design plans since i want to use it for my garden. so had to go for something bigger.
Going to use a old hydro 90 liter water tub finally putting it to good use. dimension 82cm(l)x48cm(w) x 32cm(h). My plan to start of small and get more experience before getting something bigger was short lived.. decided to just start of with a big one. Is this size ok or too big?
information on worms say when first building the bedding it shouldn't be too deep as you continue to add more materials later as they consume. If too deep then the bottom will not get processed, true?
Finding it hard to source any cow/horse manure, will have to look around.
is it important to let the worm bin cook before adding worms?
So far the list of ingredients for the bedding:
coco coir
peat moss
shredded brown paper bags
cut up cardboard
dry grass
compost soil(miracle grow used in the garden)
egg shells
pretty sure i'm missing a few more ingredients for bedding. slightly confused here.. at which point do we add the fruit food material? is the bedding basically the whole worm medium or just a lower portion. I keep reading more bedding is good as it's where worms rest etc so just want to make sure i get the part right.
will skip collecting the juice for now until i can establish a good bin...
FunTimesIndeed
Member
I'm sorry if we already went over this, but do you have a regular compost heap or a good source for thermophilic compost? If so, your bedding issue is handled. Compost and the occasional vegetable scraps are excellent and easy.
i have fed my worms composted manure and *of course* compost
many have experienced disaster attempting to feed their worms fresh goods ~it gets too hot for them if the pile proceeds to actually compost
its ok to throw in a melon rind from time to time or some coffee grounds {even a lot of those} but; your list of ingredients sounds OK ~you shouldnt have to let it settle w/ that stuff
idk i got my batch of worms from a worm farm guy and he packed them in straight peat for the transaction {its how he ships them} they seemed to be a bit lethargic in it & i wondered if it wasnt a little acid for them {they like neutral} but idk you can usually tell if they dont like something as they flip around {light makes them do it too}
many have experienced disaster attempting to feed their worms fresh goods ~it gets too hot for them if the pile proceeds to actually compost
its ok to throw in a melon rind from time to time or some coffee grounds {even a lot of those} but; your list of ingredients sounds OK ~you shouldnt have to let it settle w/ that stuff
idk i got my batch of worms from a worm farm guy and he packed them in straight peat for the transaction {its how he ships them} they seemed to be a bit lethargic in it & i wondered if it wasnt a little acid for them {they like neutral} but idk you can usually tell if they dont like something as they flip around {light makes them do it too}
FunTimesIndeed
Member
^
That.
The worms don't actually eat the rinds and scraps you through into the bin, but the microbes that result in its' decomposition. Adding a bunch of fresh scraps is a good way to get into trouble.
That.
The worms don't actually eat the rinds and scraps you through into the bin, but the microbes that result in its' decomposition. Adding a bunch of fresh scraps is a good way to get into trouble.
dreadlock
Member
unfortunately due to space i can't have a compost heap, the conditions round here don't sound ideal for a thermophilic compost..
however there is a bag of miracle grow compost all purpose used for garden plants lying around. containing sphagnum Peat Moss, 0.10 per cent total nitrogen. ammoniacal nitrogen, water soluble nitrogen and water insoluble nitrogen. The water insoluble nitrogen is a slow-release form that is derived from the pasteurised poultry litter. There is also 0.05 per cent phosphate and 0.05 per cent soluble potash which are derived from the pasteurised poultry litter.
label reads 'Poultry litter adds many micronutrients to the potting soil, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, also known as potash. It also adds magnesium, calcium and sulphur'
maybe add some biochar?
in regards to peat, would it need to be soaked first before using maybe...
if i'm understanding correctly.. have to keep it simple with food till the worms are established before feeding them with scraps right?
however there is a bag of miracle grow compost all purpose used for garden plants lying around. containing sphagnum Peat Moss, 0.10 per cent total nitrogen. ammoniacal nitrogen, water soluble nitrogen and water insoluble nitrogen. The water insoluble nitrogen is a slow-release form that is derived from the pasteurised poultry litter. There is also 0.05 per cent phosphate and 0.05 per cent soluble potash which are derived from the pasteurised poultry litter.
label reads 'Poultry litter adds many micronutrients to the potting soil, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, also known as potash. It also adds magnesium, calcium and sulphur'
maybe add some biochar?
in regards to peat, would it need to be soaked first before using maybe...
if i'm understanding correctly.. have to keep it simple with food till the worms are established before feeding them with scraps right?
FunTimesIndeed
Member
Do you guys have craigslist across the pond? If you can find some high grade compost around you, you may be able to make an easy start of it yet. Maybe a search for Demeter certified compost would be helpful.
dreadlock
Member
sweet, thanks.. I'll take a closer look.
had a search around for demeter, no luck. There are a few research studies going on using it although nothing for sale publicly..might be able to get it if i look harder.
just came across some farm yard rotted manure, the description states it will attract worms. also a reasonable price £4.60, $6.60 per 50 liters. looks good + peat free
http://www.compostdirect.com/farmyard-manure/p14
had a search around for demeter, no luck. There are a few research studies going on using it although nothing for sale publicly..might be able to get it if i look harder.
just came across some farm yard rotted manure, the description states it will attract worms. also a reasonable price £4.60, $6.60 per 50 liters. looks good + peat free
http://www.compostdirect.com/farmyard-manure/p14
FunTimesIndeed
Member
I ask because the UK is the hub of the biodynamic universe. Say what you will about their celestial calenders and vortex energies....the compost they deem worthy is no joke.
The irony here is that it was UK websites where I spent the most time learning about growing, harvesting and using comfrey, how to make peat-free potting soil and coir-free as well, using kelp meal, etc.
I dunno know......
I dunno know......
Absolutely! They offer some other products worth looking at as well...
pssst - look into the pellets linked by a UK gardener a page or two back. That's what you want to use for amending your potting soils, worm bins, making botanical tea, etc.
dreadlock
The Bocking Comfrey cultivars were developed 60 years ago in Essex by Lawrence D. Hills and his nursery was on Bocking Road. He wrote the comfrey bible, Comfrey: Past, Present & Future
His work was carried on by the Henry Doubleday Research Association (HDRA) which is now Garden Organic
Not as a fertilizer initially but England has a long history growing comfrey dating back over 250 years ago. The reason that Mr. Stills developed the sterile plants was to give farmers the ability to control where it grew. True Comfrey is one of the most invasive plants you can grow. It is common practice to plant Bocking comfrey between trees in orchards or adjacent to cane berries or grapes.
There are 3 plants which stand head & shoulders above the rest of the plant world in their ability to accumulate nutrients in their biomass - kelp, alfalfa & comfrey and not necessarily in that order.
The Garden Organic forums offer a lot of good information from very helpful people and finding materials through the posters will make your task much easier. I still hit that website on a regular basis because it happens to be one of the best gardening forums on the entire web.
Maybe your local library has Mr. Stills' book available. If you have a tablet which can run the Kindle software the digital version is less than $10.00 USD so that's more than reasonable.
HTH
CC
The Bocking Comfrey cultivars were developed 60 years ago in Essex by Lawrence D. Hills and his nursery was on Bocking Road. He wrote the comfrey bible, Comfrey: Past, Present & Future
His work was carried on by the Henry Doubleday Research Association (HDRA) which is now Garden Organic
Not as a fertilizer initially but England has a long history growing comfrey dating back over 250 years ago. The reason that Mr. Stills developed the sterile plants was to give farmers the ability to control where it grew. True Comfrey is one of the most invasive plants you can grow. It is common practice to plant Bocking comfrey between trees in orchards or adjacent to cane berries or grapes.
There are 3 plants which stand head & shoulders above the rest of the plant world in their ability to accumulate nutrients in their biomass - kelp, alfalfa & comfrey and not necessarily in that order.
The Garden Organic forums offer a lot of good information from very helpful people and finding materials through the posters will make your task much easier. I still hit that website on a regular basis because it happens to be one of the best gardening forums on the entire web.
Maybe your local library has Mr. Stills' book available. If you have a tablet which can run the Kindle software the digital version is less than $10.00 USD so that's more than reasonable.
HTH
CC
RanchoDeluxe
Member
Hey dreadlock, Can ya do me a favor when you're ready to get started?
I would like for you to do a bioassay of your soil mix before ya go ahead and plant cannabis into it. Simply plant some tomatoes into it and observe for a week or two. If the plants look healthy...it's time to get growing. If they aren't looking too good, then ya know it's time to go back to the drawing board.
Over here in the States, farmers and ranchers will spray their fields w/ certain herbicides that can contaminate manure (especially horse). If this occurs, there isn't much that will grow in it. Time, chemical and photodegradation, will make it usable once again. Old, dried, manure that has been exposed to sunlight is preferable to fresh sticky shit. Maybe, this is not an issue in the U.K., I dunno, a simple bioassay will let you know.
I would like for you to do a bioassay of your soil mix before ya go ahead and plant cannabis into it. Simply plant some tomatoes into it and observe for a week or two. If the plants look healthy...it's time to get growing. If they aren't looking too good, then ya know it's time to go back to the drawing board.
Over here in the States, farmers and ranchers will spray their fields w/ certain herbicides that can contaminate manure (especially horse). If this occurs, there isn't much that will grow in it. Time, chemical and photodegradation, will make it usable once again. Old, dried, manure that has been exposed to sunlight is preferable to fresh sticky shit. Maybe, this is not an issue in the U.K., I dunno, a simple bioassay will let you know.
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/weeds/WeedsToC.html
all plants are bioaccumilators
imho
any legume can be an alternative to alfalfa & i would think nettle is just as plentiful as many extraordinarily rich garden veggies or popular "organic" plant based amendments
HDRA organic guide lines
http://issuu.com/gardenorganic/docs/go_guidelines_12?e=4960786/2132766
all plants are bioaccumilators
imho
any legume can be an alternative to alfalfa & i would think nettle is just as plentiful as many extraordinarily rich garden veggies or popular "organic" plant based amendments
HDRA organic guide lines
http://issuu.com/gardenorganic/docs/go_guidelines_12?e=4960786/2132766
dreadlock
Member
rancho that sounds like a plan, i'll add a few peppers to.. Have quite a few after taking clones recently cause they make great gifts for family & friends during summer.
I managed to source some horse manure from a farm for pennies, made my day! allot easier then i thought.. for the reasons you mentioned i was put off pre-bagged manure unless suppliers could provide me with more information on it.. easier said then done when all they want is your money!
any idea how much i might need to pickup? will it be just for the worms right..
@ DARC MIND
thanks dude, very interesting information.. had a quick peek. looks like a good read for later.. Appreciate it!
I managed to source some horse manure from a farm for pennies, made my day! allot easier then i thought.. for the reasons you mentioned i was put off pre-bagged manure unless suppliers could provide me with more information on it.. easier said then done when all they want is your money!
any idea how much i might need to pickup? will it be just for the worms right..
@ DARC MIND
thanks dude, very interesting information.. had a quick peek. looks like a good read for later.. Appreciate it!
dreadlock
Member
ok since coming across horse manure i've decided to use it all the way especially after reading worms love manure.. it's dirt cheap making it another good reason to use.
The horse manure comes rotted, layed out under the sun for a few months. Some farmers use toxic chemicals to kill worms within the horse which can be excreted into manure killing earth worms.. Chances are higher if the manure is fresh and stored somewhere damp/shaded. When exposed for enough time under the sun it gets rid of vermicide residue making it safe to use.
Will pickup as much as possible
With the weekend upon us, now would be a good time to get the bin out the way.
Plan:
add 1/2 inch of cut up cardboard(wet)
fill bin with horse manure up to 30cm(wet not soaking) + some crushed egg shells.
place tub on bricks with a collection tray below
bucket dimensions-90liter- L82 x W35 x H42cm..
now for the best bit, worms! about 500g to start off..
food scraps etc will be added after 1 week allowing worms to settle in.
The horse manure comes rotted, layed out under the sun for a few months. Some farmers use toxic chemicals to kill worms within the horse which can be excreted into manure killing earth worms.. Chances are higher if the manure is fresh and stored somewhere damp/shaded. When exposed for enough time under the sun it gets rid of vermicide residue making it safe to use.
Will pickup as much as possible
With the weekend upon us, now would be a good time to get the bin out the way.
Plan:
add 1/2 inch of cut up cardboard(wet)
fill bin with horse manure up to 30cm(wet not soaking) + some crushed egg shells.
place tub on bricks with a collection tray below
bucket dimensions-90liter- L82 x W35 x H42cm..
now for the best bit, worms! about 500g to start off..
food scraps etc will be added after 1 week allowing worms to settle in.
