The myth, of the high P myth?

[YosemiteSam]

wow YS those are flawless!

Were those fed the Jacks/CalN at 1/.66 ratio?

I have switched to raw salts. The Jack's limits you on what ratios you can hit. For example you would have a hard time going all of the way down to 24 ppm P with Jacks because it would also drop several other important elements, e.g. K, micros, Mg.

The Jack's/CaNO3 at those ratios is a very good formula though and will work great. I just like to play too much to still use it.

 

[YosemiteSam]

I prefer potassium Sulfate to kick up the potassium beyond that supplied by the Monopotassium Phosphate but some growers fear high sulfate levels. I use less Monopotassium sulfate so as to lower the phosphorus. If mixing your own fertilizer for use in soil and Coco I would instead use langbeinite (K2SO4•2MgSO4, 22% K2O + 18% MgO + 22% S also known as potassium magnesium sulfate or double sulfate of potassium and magnesium, and commercially as K-Mag® or Sul-Po-Mag®), which is commonly used in organic agriculture. They are water soluble. Although in the US they are not as widely available as Potassium Sulfate.

I have both of those available. They are soluble but both take some effort to get mixed.

I am really liking the Albion Metalosate K. It lets me control K without going high with SO4. I can almost design a base formula and then just add K to it as flowering goes along.

Great point on the ppms vs method. I am dtw in coco....except I don't really water to run off. No doubt, over time, that effects availability of nutes and changes the mix for me in unknown ways.

 

[tester]

So if you were using 24ppm of P in solution with this product you would have 36.2ppm of P.

But since that initial amount of P is only available at the beginning, - then it gets used up / leached / precipitated it is not significant.
Or it's only partially available so lets say it adds 1ppm P throughout the cycle.

 

[YosemiteSam]

They look great. Ive vegged beautiful plants at 19 ppm P, and finished it all the way through flower, but soil test results came back on the low end of P, and had visible symptoms late in flowering. Do you plan to up it any during flowering?

I plan to go to 40 at least and maybe 60. Because this is a seed run and I am looking for a keeper pheno I don't wanna try anything too radical.

At some point though I will leave P that low through flower...just to see what I see.

 

[YosemiteSam]

Would anyone care to share with me what they feed their plants the last 2-3 weeks of flowering? Ive been doing lots of EC checks of the media throughout flowering, and flushed when appropriate, and now my ladies are clearly eating much less now when fed at a constant rate of 150 ppm N via Blumats for the last 5 days. Ive reduced strength of feed down to 50 ppm N, but still supplementing extra P & K for now.

New floral growth has waned to very little, and calyxes are swelling and pistils turning brown/shriveling. During profuse growth, I was feeding at up to 200 ppm N to stave off an N deficiency.

The most likely reason for EC of the media to raise so much is either too much N or K. Should I cut both in half, or cut N, and maintain high K levels?

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks.

I debate this same question...a lot. I have tried true flushing, less N alone, less N and Mg (trying to reduce chlorophyll), lower EC (cut everything) and I still do not have an answer.

This next grow...carbs for a week and then straight water.

Looking for that combo where it tastes good for the entire bowl and burns white from the first lighter use.

So sorry...I don't have a clue on this one.

 

[neddy]

But since that initial amount of P is only available at the beginning, - then it gets used up / leached / precipitated it is not significant.
Or it's only partially available so lets say it adds 1ppm P throughout the cycle.

The only accurate way of knowing this would be to monitor the solution and substrate independently through lab tests otherwise it is pure speculation and hypothesis.

 

[Dave Coulier]

I debate this same question...a lot. I have tried true flushing, less N alone, less N and Mg (trying to reduce chlorophyll), lower EC (cut everything) and I still do not have an answer.

This next grow...carbs for a week and then straight water.

Looking for that combo where it tastes good for the entire bowl and burns white from the first lighter use.

So sorry...I don't have a clue on this one.

I appreciate the response. Ill just experiment, and see how the ladies respond.

 

[ShroomDr]

I picked up a bottle of HydroDeuce (0-0-22). Its potassium sulfate. I'll report back in 7-9 weeks.

So far... buds look good, i dont see much of a difference. Ill have a better perspective after a harvest (~Aug 10th), and a more complete view 5 weeks later.

This product did drop my pH to ~5.5. A little lower than i would prefer.

Ive been using it @ 1-1.5mL/Gal.

 

[oldpink]

testing 123

 

[YosemiteSam]

40 P through stretch, 60 P flower

40 P through stretch, 60 P flower



I cannot get more than a pic to download tonight...sorry

 

[YosemiteSam]

Killawatt (hindu kush x ?)

crystal production is as good or better than it was last grow at 90 P.

I will post some pics of different plants when I can load more at a time

 

[YosemiteSam]

Mob Boss from Grindhouse.

 

[tester]

Yo, is that foxtailing? Do you see it on other plants too?

On the last pic I think I see Mg deficiency.
N def would show on the lower leaves.

 

[YosemiteSam]

Yea...a little bit of foxtailing. Also got it on a blueberry x uzbeki. I let the plants get too big...too close to the light...heat/light > foxtail.

Plants have had 2 weeks of flush. IMO that is all flushing is good for...causing deficiencies. But sometimes you gotta do what the market dictates. If I were growing for me alone...no flush but a long cure.

 

[Marquis de Sod]

Yosemite, what does burning white till the end of the bowl tell you???

Shroom, i have been using the DD 0-0-22 also at 2ml/gal, for about 3 weeks now and i have not noticed anything either. i have switched from floranova to Maxibloom, as main bloom food, and add it to that, as well as floralicious plus, molasses, cal-mag plus and Budswel. things look the same. i guess. still gotta ways to go till they are done tho. i spoze any dif could be attributed to the switch to maxibloom to so MY test, like anything else i do with weed, is fulloshit.

 

[supermanlives]

tried using ej bloom 0 3 1 and meta k 0 0 10. the plants that got both were better than those only recieving just bloom. good enough for me

 

[grapeman]

So far... buds look good, i dont see much of a difference. Ill have a better perspective after a harvest (~Aug 10th), and a more complete view 5 weeks later.

This product did drop my pH to ~5.5. A little lower than i would prefer.

Ive been using it @ 1-1.5mL/Gal.

I use Sulfate of Potash for a K kick now and then on this crop and on other crops too. Couple of tablespoons per 5 gallon bucket.

But when I do use it, I start @ week 4.5 on a 8 week strain. I like to have the K in the plant just prior to the buds adding weight.

I don't know what you are paying for the bottled version of your S of K, but for @$20 you get a 50 lb. bag of fine grade soluble sulfate of potash at any decent farm supply store. I'd bet on the purity of the product below before using a bottled version any day.

 

[tester]

For me, the biggest problem with bagged fertilizer salts is that it's hard (if not impossible) to get them in smaller quantities. For example MAP or MKP only exists in 50kg (110 pound) bags here in my country.
It also doesn't look good under my kitchen counter.

 

[desertsquirrel]

15-20 actual available p @ day 25:

Edit: lets say 25 w/phosphoric acid =)

 

[desertsquirrel]

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