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The Lounge : Growers Round Table Discussion Thread

led05

Chasing The Present
Please don't tell my farms that.


I wish this forum would show which posts we like to others and whom liked them vs just a total count, I think some perspectives would change; anyhew....

I heard from a little birdie (there's a lot of life beyond these forums) you and Jidoka were going into business together, this was surprising to me considering the banter in here b/w you two the past couple years I've been around, then I thought about many of my life experiences and remembered one thing universally unites most.... money !

Best of luck on them farms - I'm sure b/w the two of you, you'll be pumping out some legit product !
 

growingcrazy

Well-known member
I'm hoping for 3+ out of these ~1/2 yd mounds in the test garden. Crazy hitting that in 50's...


picture.php



The extra seedling came out of the compost that got all the trimming from last years seed run. It's a girl.
 

jidoka

Active member
Doesn’t work in mounds but in pots the trick is to get them rootbound asap. Once you do that you can move to multiple daily feedings. Not more water, just more often with fert.

My 200s are on 3x per day right now. Will be 4-5 during stretch.

Tom Hill taught us so much of this back in the day. Much respect to him
 

growingcrazy

Well-known member
I have one seed plant in a 50 gallon currently. It's roughly 8' tall and has only been fed twice.


I haven't even set the irrigation up on these plants and it has been very dry in between rains. My plan is for irrigation during stretch and then taper off. I'm really trying to see how hands off I can be on this set of plants.


I'm going to take the 50 gallon and start feeding more often now that you mention it to see how it does. I know it is in a lighter mix, soil EC is only .6-.7.
 

growingcrazy

Well-known member
If your soil ec is that high you are doing great. Well done on soil balancing


This spring on a hunch I stopped at a local high dollar private country club to talk to the grounds keeper. Turns out he had a line on some nice loamy topsoil that is screened @ 1/8". That combined with chicken compost and sand as a base is doing better than anticipated.


On the Humic... What rates do you use that in soil? You like the Fe levels?
Does humic acid work as well as amino to get carbon into tissue via foliar?
 

led05

Chasing The Present
https://customhydronutrients.com/natural-leonardite-c-118_351_353.html

Been using this for yrs and never mentioned it. Our secret ingredient but a dick move...sorry Avenger

Dem carbon feed dem microbes


I prefer this product, it spreads easy and I can get real cheap around here but same idea(s), using this or similar for as long as can remember... I add it to slurries often too

The Humic DG & Black Gypsum DG are good products

https://andersonshumates.com/products/#HumicDG
 

growingcrazy

Well-known member
I also use the DG humates. Application rates are up to 50lbs/acre with the DG and I believe up to 500lbs/acre on the Leonardite that Jidoka posted. Doesn't DTE brand come from North Dakota? CHN is still the better option.


I'm using SP-90 in foliars and drenches. I think that one is bagged up in CO?
 

jidoka

Active member
This spring on a hunch I stopped at a local high dollar private country club to talk to the grounds keeper. Turns out he had a line on some nice loamy topsoil that is screened @ 1/8". That combined with chicken compost and sand as a base is doing better than anticipated.


On the Humic... What rates do you use that in soil? You like the Fe levels?
Does humic acid work as well as amino to get carbon into tissue via foliar?

I used 50 lbs a yard...that was too much. Follow chn’s recommendations.

Yea a lot of Fe but a lot of positive too

Amino kicks humic/fulvic ass for foliar...measured by tissue response
 
Anyone use ferti humic? Reppin repped it awhile back and I have been liking it minus the price tag.

Growsil as a soil ammendment has been working out nicely.
 

Arnold.

Active member
Just puzzled together a new liquid feed base mix. Hope this one won't smell as much the previous one :)

It needs extra N and/or extra PK in some phases of the plant's life.

For some of the ingredients it will be my first time using them (MKP, CaNO3, Ammonium sulfate) so wanted to check here first.
The blue Ca ones, will be mixed separately till before use.

Like to hear your thoughts.


LbLN2c9m.png



Plus, if I want to use this base as a foliar feed, what dilution/ppm's would I should for in the final spray?

The plants in my peat + leaf mold mix were thriving, despite the high N of a too generous portion of bone meal. Made a fresh one with 200ppm N.

Learning slowly, but the results are already there, thanks everyone!

:tiphat:
 
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MrBungle

Active member
All that NH4 looks like it will bottom out your pH pretty fast.. I use 0.1 grams per gallon of Amm Sulf (takes me to about 10-11% NH4) and even that will drop my pH like a rock if I'm not careful.... I'm using a peat based mix tho
 
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Arnold.

Active member
Good thing I checked here before mixing, thanks for the insight.

I was not aware of the pH effect of ammonium sulfate and MAP on peat. I do not insist on using either of them.

I have a fishmix of 5-1-1 that I use now, but I want to be able to mix something without that smell.
What better options are there for N in that aspect? I tried to find amino N, but didn't find a brand or retailer in Europe yet.

Do you notice a difference when a plant gets only salt nitrates vs organic N forms? I'm from an organic background and am a bit hesitant on too many salt nitrates because I've been told it is taking a 'shortcut' which can dilute the quality and resistance of a crop. Could be bollocks of course.

What would be a good nitrate vs ammonium rate during veg and during flower?
 

jidoka

Active member
Ima pass on that whole shortcut/quality argument. It is well established that I am a commercial Ho...so my opinion should not be trusted on that question. Just tell me how you wanna grow, write the check and I am here to help ��

But if you wanna try salts with N at approximately 100 ppm might I suggest:

CaNO3.....2.4 grams/gal
MPK.........1.33
Epsom......1
Fulvic......depends on your source
Micros.....again depends on source but with enough MoO4 to convert your nitrate to protein.

You can:
1) run this all the way, or
2) about wk 3 start trading MAP for caNO3

N-P-K-Ca-Mg in ppm is something like 98-80-100-120-25

Spraying an amino Ca for the first 2 wks of flower is recommended.

Give it a shot and decide on quality and pest/disease resistance for yourself

If you wanna add ksil compromises will be required
 

growingcrazy

Well-known member
N from salts is probably actually easier...much easier to remove it from the root zone as needed.



Thanks for sharing some real info and numbers Jidoka.



I shared that I like to run 100-140-125-(150-240)-40 and then scale that depending on plant response. Normally I just try and match P with Ca except during stretch where I up Ca while spraying Aminos (not biomin Ca). Because of running solely aminos for N you could scale those numbers to 75-105-100-(112-180)-30 for a better comparison.


With all that said, Biomin Ca is about the only organic option to replace CaNo3 or Fish for N. Besides the costs associated, have you or Avenger run Biomin as sole N/Ca source in liquids?
 
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