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the Hand Watering coco thread

N-P-Kali

Active member
I ran atami for a hot minute, and treated it like any other coco. N is an anion and will not last in coco after a watering or two..

Essentially what they are doing is precharging with cations so your plants have food immediately, those reserves will be used with time, treat the medium the same as if it had nothing..

I wouldnt steer ya wrong..


Sort of right... But N is comes in 3 forms. Nitrate N03-(anion), Ammonic NH4+(cation), and Urea NH2+(cation). The coco could be charged with one or all three.

I agree with the rest of your statement. Very good.


My garden is in about week six of bloom. Things were going well. Then, ppms began to rocket. I keep flushing and using nutes at 800, but rates keep rising. Is this because the plants are using lots of nutes and puking out the salts, or do I have some hidden issue. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I’m assuming your referring to the run-off water from the containers.
Remember it could be a pH issue causing mild lock out. Try calibrating your meter and re-measuring your nutrient solution pH. Also remember like in any other medium cationic/anionic balance is paramount to the success of the plants. Over supplying one or another will put the plant in a position to not uptake one or more cations or anions. Cation-Anion Balance:
This concept simply means that the total number of nutrient cations (positively charged ions) in a plant must be equal to the total number of nutrient anions (negatively charged ions) in a plant. If this were not true, the plant would become electrically charged.
When formulating my nutrients and nutrient solutions I used this special relationship guideline as a reference.

Calcium is generally EQUAL to Nitrogen. However the
Calcium should be reduced when using calcareous (calcium rich) gravel, or sand for root cover, as well as Gypsum or Lime amendments.
Potassium is generally 1-1/2 to 3 times higher than Nitrogen for vegetables, less for flowers.
Phosphorus is generally 1/3 to 1/2 the PPM of Nitrogen.
Magnesium is generally EQUAL to or slightly lower than Phosphorus. Magnesium is generally 30% to 50% of the Calcium, 2-5 times and much Calcium is needed for "buffering", to avoid toxicity from Magnesium.
 

purplez

New member
great!! how awesome is this, the first place I have found that has a handwatering coco thread - so impressed - yay
thank%20you.gif
 

MaynardG_Krebs

Active member
Veteran
great!! how awesome is this, the first place I have found that has a handwatering coco thread - so impressed - yayView Image

Oh yea.. if you're into the laborious method of growing of handwatering coco, you're in the right spot. I had the best result I've ever had in my little closet using House and Garden nutes and handwatering. I moved to an easier method last year with lower yield, but easier process. I decided the bigger yield is well worth the effort. This thread is a wealth of knowledge and is a great resource. Have fun..

mgk :tiphat:
 

Chuck Stingray

New member
My first post on this site is simply a testimonial to the potential that coco has. Water daily, mix with perlite, get runoff everytime, use top shelf coir, 3 gallon pots. Simple.
 

Chuck Stingray

New member
I am just curious about the nutrient increase when a plant goes into flower. I am sure this strain can eat up to 1700ppm at the end. How would u go up the ladder in 9 weeks? How do you start off?
 

DaleW

Member
Hey guys do you have to water coco everyday? i want to use cocorox by batonicare but I think I will have an issue with watering everyday due to my busy schedule. I was thinking if I use bigger pots like bonecarver suggested I would be ok. Is there anyone on here who waters every other day?
 

farmdalefurr

I feel nothing and it feels great
Veteran
in veg i water every other day

in flower i water every day

once they hit flower, they really start sucking up everything you give em
 

DHD

New member
Hi

I need some explanation about hand watering.

Say i got a few plants flowering. I water them with nutrition solution one time in two days. Afer a couple times of watering with this solution (1000 ppm for instance), i need to water them with water or weak nutrition solution.
How much water do i need for it? Do i need just enough to keep it no more than 1000 ppm (in this example standart nutrition solution) or do i have to flush the pot till ppm drop down to 100-200 (implying drainage is good enough) and then use the standart nutrition solution.

So i just need to understand the logic of watering with pure water.

Thanks
 

farmdalefurr

I feel nothing and it feels great
Veteran
you should never water w/ straight water unless your flushing at the end, or, you have a buildup of salts that ya need to get rid of

other wise you should be feeding nutrients every time

ya prolly dont even need to go anywhere near 1000ppm to be honest, unless of course you have a very heavy feeder

i never go above 800ppm (.5scale) and my plants thrive
 

Twisted pleasur

Active member
Veteran
Re: the Hand Watering coco thread

Sort of right... But N is comes in 3 forms. Nitrate N03-(anion), Ammonic NH4+(cation), and Urea NH2+(cation). The coco could be charged with one or all three.

I agree with the rest of your statement. Very good.




I’m assuming your referring to the run-off water from the containers.
Remember it could be a pH issue causing mild lock out. Try calibrating your meter and re-measuring your nutrient solution pH. Also remember like in any other medium cationic/anionic balance is paramount to the success of the plants. Over supplying one or another will put the plant in a position to not uptake one or more cations or anions. Cation-Anion Balance:
This concept simply means that the total number of nutrient cations (positively charged ions) in a plant must be equal to the total number of nutrient anions (negatively charged ions) in a plant. If this were not true, the plant would become electrically charged.
When formulating my nutrients and nutrient solutions I used this special relationship guideline as a reference.

Calcium is generally EQUAL to Nitrogen. However the
Calcium should be reduced when using calcareous (calcium rich) gravel, or sand for root cover, as well as Gypsum or Lime amendments.
Potassium is generally 1-1/2 to 3 times higher than Nitrogen for vegetables, less for flowers.
Phosphorus is generally 1/3 to 1/2 the PPM of Nitrogen.
Magnesium is generally EQUAL to or slightly lower than Phosphorus. Magnesium is generally 30% to 50% of the Calcium, 2-5 times and much Calcium is needed for "buffering", to avoid toxicity from Magnesium.

So how do u actually calculate this?
Read your bottles and their percentages? I would love to pinpoint every singles element through out my grows and adjust accordingly.

Great thread guys. Im actually going to try my first coco run with canna and aptus.

Been doing my own reused soil mix with a three day watering schedule.

Would love to step it up a notch.

Evolve if you will. Used to do hydro.
But love the flavor and resaults from soil. So maybe a mix of the two. Great!

T~P
 
i'm starting a coco grow soon and it will be my first time growing in coco. going to be using canna coco and canna nutes. planning on hand watering with r/o water. i have a couple questions for experienced canna coco brand growers. i have read different things about growing in 100% coco vs. mixing it with perlite. some people say you get better results with straight 100% coco (and maybe a small layer of clay pebbles at the bottom of the contrainer) and other people say to mix in about 15-25% coco, and others swear by mixing it 50/50 coco and perlite. what are the pros/cons to using 100% coco versus a mix with perlite?
 

Green lung

Active member
Veteran
i'm starting a coco grow soon and it will be my first time growing in coco. going to be using canna coco and canna nutes. planning on hand watering with r/o water. i have a couple questions for experienced canna coco brand growers. i have read different things about growing in 100% coco vs. mixing it with perlite. some people say you get better results with straight 100% coco (and maybe a small layer of clay pebbles at the bottom of the contrainer) and other people say to mix in about 15-25% coco, and others swear by mixing it 50/50 coco and perlite. what are the pros/cons to using 100% coco versus a mix with perlite?


.



I've had great results both ways, the perlite ones dry out faster.



Make sure you let those roots fill out the container before you flower.



.
 
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I've had great results both ways, the perlite ones dry out faster.



Make sure you let those roots fill out the container before you flower.



.

does the size of the containers have anything to do with it? i was thinking 3 gallon smart pots. i read somewhere else that using big containers would require some perlite mixed in as to allow more drainage and to not smother the roots. if you were wanting to do 100% coco, then what size pots would you use? sorry for such newb questions.
 

IG420

Member
Why do you need to use coco specific nutrients? What happens if you use regular General Hydroponics or a home made mixture?
 

Jbonez

Active member
Veteran
Why do you need to use coco specific nutrients? What happens if you use regular General Hydroponics or a home made mixture?

Ive tried them all, the formulas out right now for a baseline coco program and the only one Im seeing that works is this.

5/5/7/5 .5

G/M/B/CaMg /epsom salt

This kills H3ads formula, and I run a SHIT load of strains, all are happy...
 

N-P-Kali

Active member
Coco specific nutrients are specifically formulated with lower potassium (K) since the coir dust (CD) contains a fairly significant (K) concentration. Everyone here understands this.

Any nutrient system can be employed in coco coir, whether it be store bought or custom formulated, so long as the operator understands the dynamics of the coir medium in terms of the plant's needs.

Hey there Jbonez.
 
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