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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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Exactly. Sometimes they drop fans that arent viable no more to the plant since the leaf isnt getting any light but its probably telling you it needs some food. I have a Chemical Blue doing the same thing. Just fed it 2 days ago and its getting another feeding tonight.

I appreciate the quick feedback ODW. That paling of the leaves seems like classic nitrogen deficiency. But at this stage of the game I'd be real hesitant to supply much N. What are you feeding the chem blue at this point?
 

OvergrowDaWorld

$$ ALONE $$
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Im a newbie as well when it comes to larger sized plants over 3 lbs.
Im still learning every day reading and growing at the same time.
I made some mistakes this year so next year will be even better.
Keep all the great info coming pros and keep asking them important q's newbs.
 

Backyard Farmer

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It takes an ergs of at least .6 to drive a big plant ... My soil drops to that level , after a root drench it will go up and the foliars keep it up...around .8
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
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And that ergs needs to be balanced mierals. Trying to drive it with N alone is a mistake that will lead to insect attack and fungal disease when you near harvest
 
It takes an ergs of at least .6 to drive a big plant ... My soil drops to that level , after a root drench it will go up and the foliars keep it up...around .8

Is .6-.8 the same as saying 600-800 micro siemens? And can I take an ERGS reading using a blue lab EC pen? 1:1 ratio of dry soil to distilled water after shaking and letting sit?
 
Bare with me guys. It takes a lot of summing up of courage to ask some of these seemingly dumb questions. I try to search this stuff on my own so as not to waste anyones time, but its not always easy to find the info I'm looking for.
 

Bulldog420

Active member
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Bulldog420, Did they sell direct to you? I'm curious what kind of discount that you got with cash...

200$ discount out the door. No added tax in the end. I am sure they are paying the tax, that is just how it was worded to me when I bought it.:tiphat:

Yes, direct sale strait to me.
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
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Bare with me guys. It takes a lot of summing up of courage to ask some of these seemingly dumb questions. I try to search this stuff on my own so as not to waste anyones time, but its not always easy to find the info I'm looking for.
The only dumb question, is the one not asked. Have you tried the search features within this thread?
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Bare with me guys. It takes a lot of summing up of courage to ask some of these seemingly dumb questions. I try to search this stuff on my own so as not to waste anyones time, but its not always easy to find the info I'm looking for.

No worries. Feel free to ask. Hopefully this thread is about helping each other
 
C

Cep

Organicgrower,
I use a bluelab w/ 1:1 soil:distilled weter. My soil started at .8 this year, but I have too much potassium so I've added various amendments via driplines to bring the other elements up.

What's in your soil? If you know amounts you'll be able to start correcting whats lacking. Epsom salt for Mg, Calphos or gypsum for Ca & a little P, various potassium salts, etc.

Nitrogen level is something I'd like to know more about. My soil nitrate level was at 200ppm in the spring and in my experience it doesn't drop much untill the heavy rains come in the winter. I'd like to try and figure out the lowest level possible without limiting yield. I've seen smaller plants do really well with 50ppm in the soil. Big plants, different story. 200ppm seems to be able to grow 15 footers no prob and in that situation the yield was limited by a lack of cations.
 

OvergrowDaWorld

$$ ALONE $$
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I appreciate the quick feedback ODW. That paling of the leaves seems like classic nitrogen deficiency. But at this stage of the game I'd be real hesitant to supply much N. What are you feeding the chem blue at this point?

Im giving the 1 Chemical Blue:
1 tsp (Fox Farms) Grow Big
2 tsp FF Tiger Bloom
1 tbl FF Big Bloom
...per gln of water, x3 glns.

I dont need to water them at all so Im waiting till tomorrow morn to feed her since we had heavy rains 3 days ago and its been sunny since then and its gonna be dry, sunny, and cool all week! :woohoo: Finally! Some dry weather!
I feel all the rains kinda flushed the soil abit and I went light on the mix in the first place. All the rains have blocked me from giving them more water with food for them. Im also gonna top off the girls with a fresh bag of FFOF soil to top feed them. That should carry them through the next 7 weeks.

The rest of the plants dont need anything. These girls I guess are heavy feeders. Ive noticed that if I feed water feed water feed...3x....they look beautiful in 2 weeks and back to normal.....but thats just my experience with these Blues.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
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BYF- have you tried fishers GG4? might change your mind a bit…the indoor glue samples at the HTCC were subpar man even i didn't like them. most were hydro grown and picked too early….when she's in some soil she gets a real proper mocha chocolate sour taste with a little hint of master/bubba…

Organic i got a prune job pic il show soon here just swamped.


So i noticed 2 of my OGs and 1 Grape Stomper are showing Sulfer deficiency. Would like to hear what the experts know about this one, what its related to and if it affects uptake of other nutrients. i added Dr Earth bloom top dress which has sulfur, and foliar sprayed with a sulfur based fungicide. any other/better ways to address this? its the only deficiencies I've spotted so far, everything else is deep green and charging along, not even seeing too much yellow leaf drop just a few here and there on the bottoms.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
The major anions antagonize each other...nitrate, sulfate, phosphate and Cl. So if you are seeing a deficiency of sulfate your plant is replacing that with one of the others...most likely nitrate or phosphate.

If you have high phosphate you eventually complex micros and end up with deficiencies of Zn, Fe and Mn.

If nitrate is the one that goes high...as in over 50% of the total N in the sap it makes your plant more susceptible to fungal disease and sap sucking insects

Nova crop control is the company pioneering this work. You can google them and read some of this...or kempf has a podcast interview with them that explains a lot on his site.

If you can stand more K (or if you are using it in a different form switch) you can use potassium sulfate or you can topdress with gypsum. The finer the grind the better the reaction you will get on those. Or if you happen to have room for Mg you can use epsom salts...or even KMag if you wanna split the cations between K and Mg.

And out of curiosity what are you seeing that led you to diagnose sulfer deficit?
 
The only dumb question, is the one not asked. Have you tried the search features within this thread?

I've started, but even then it's difficult and time consuming to get through it. Ha

Has anyone else noticed that when clicking on old posts from the search function to see them in their entirety that it takes you to a couple pages ahead of that post? I end up having to check the time stamp on the post and then find my way back to it...pain in the ass!

Organicgrower,
I use a bluelab w/ 1:1 soil:distilled weter. My soil started at .8 this year, but I have too much potassium so I've added various amendments via driplines to bring the other elements up.

What's in your soil? If you know amounts you'll be able to start correcting whats lacking. Epsom salt for Mg, Calphos or gypsum for Ca & a little P, various potassium salts, etc.

Nitrogen level is something I'd like to know more about. My soil nitrate level was at 200ppm in the spring and in my experience it doesn't drop much untill the heavy rains come in the winter. I'd like to try and figure out the lowest level possible without limiting yield. I've seen smaller plants do really well with 50ppm in the soil. Big plants, different story. 200ppm seems to be able to grow 15 footers no prob and in that situation the yield was limited by a lack of cations.

Thanks, CEP. I really need to send my soil in for a test..as well as my water. I started with the EWSF norcal blend... added a few compost teas, and just started adding some bloom teas made up of bat and seabird guano, kelp meal, krazy kelp, alfalfa meal, molasses, and EWSF liquid EWC... this has been in an attempt to boost flower production, density, and quality. What the hell do I know though...

Another question: I bought some Arrowhead distilled water to do some testing, but the pH is at 8.9?? What's up with that?? EC is at 0..but I need to get that pH down to neutral before doing any proper testing, right? Should I just pH down to neutral? Will that effect the accuracy of the tests??

MJ, and everyone else in the community, which meters and brands of them have you settled on? I've looked back through this thread and have seen some brands being suggested, but which ones have shown the most accuracy and consistency? Plant sap pH meter? Brix meter?

I'm very concerned about my pH and brix... I'm just now starting to see a few signs of PM showing up on a few ladies. It's scaring the crap out of me... I was thinking the bloom tea I fed might have triggered it with high application of Phos...but I've actually seen it on some plants that got no feed. Maybe since it's in the air now it's starting to spread. I know I missed out on early prevention at this point. I've spot treated with neem which helped to smother it for a few days, but that's not a viable option for the rest of the season, especially as the climate becomes more hospitable to the PM and the plants progress into flower. I have a gallon of raw milk that I think I'm gonna spray everything down with at a 10-20% dilution...Any reason why I shouldn't? Do you think it will help stop the spread before it becomes a big issue?

Thanks again everyone. This thread is priceless.
 

Diggaz

Member
You can also foliar or fertigate with gypsum, 2g/L max solubility which gets you approx 370ppm Sulfur and 460ppm Calcium. You would have to use fine grade.
 
You can also foliar or fertigate with gypsum, 2g/L max solubility which gets you approx 370ppm Sulfur and 460ppm Calcium. You would have to use fine grade.

Thanks for the tip, Diggaz. Ill look into that..

Anyone have anything to say about this? Ive heard to stay away from sulfur if I've already used an oil...

Does anyone have any experience with Optic Foliar's Atak that sativa breather has suggested? Looks promising..
 
L

Luther Burbank

Keep a week or so's distance between sulphur and neem oil. I don't know about other oils.
 
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