Team Microbe's Living Soil Laboratory

[Crusader Rabbit]

Coconut water and seed sprout tea applied right before topping sounds like a good strategy for my growing style.

 

[Polygon]

I've found that some plants respond much better to coconut water than others for the bushing effect. My indica dominant cultivars seem to have a much easier time with becoming bushes in a side by side compared to with no coconut water, but in my sativa cultivars, I've found that it greatly improves nodal structure and spacing in the first few weeks of flower. Sounds like a real 'no duh' situation, but it's just my limited experience.

Check out this chernobyl freak 6 hours after an SST

Loctite from Redeyed genetics putting out massive fans

My sunset sherbet turned into a literal bush and has an even canopy, the bottom caught up with the top and the top branches just seemed to grow new branches from the nodes in the meantime. Weird mutant plant that thing is. (Pic is from 3 weeks ago)

Also, I've been doing an ACT every two weeks and noticed a steep response in the effectiveness of SST's and coconut water when doing this as apposed to the last grow where I only used an ACT every 4-6 weeks. I know this is likely due to the microbe population being more flush, but it's just interesting to note

I wish I would've taken your recommendation for bigger containers TM, 7 gal is not enough. 15's and a 25 for 3 GSC forum's to go in are in the next run.

I'll try not to start anymore fights in here

 

[Granger2]

I'm using coconut water and have noticed a difference. I'll continue to use it and observe, and maybe I'll stop topping. We'll see.

Well yes, that's another thing about brix. Varying conditions will affect Brix readings. Over time, with some attention to feedings, conditions, etc., conclusions can be drawn. The thing I'm really interested in is immune response/Brix. On lazyness alone, I prefer not to spray anything if I can get away with it. I'll be taking Brix readings when the next crop gets rolling. Will report. Good luck. -granger

 

[madininagyal]

is lactoserum a good preventive for mold and powdery mildew tm???

 

[Crusader Rabbit]

This question is probably a repeat, but any recommendations for a micorrhizae mix? Does it really work to dissolve it in water and water it into the soil? Or do all the active micros get strained out and fail to penetrate past the top few inches of soil?

edit; Found an active thread that pretty much answers my questions. Should have looked first.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=280174

 

[Bmac1]

When using coconut water, are we talking feeding them pure coconut water or is it diluted? If so, how much?

 

[Polygon]

When using coconut water, are we talking feeding them pure coconut water or is it diluted? If so, how much?

I am using freeze dried coconut water at a rate of 1 Tablespoon per 5 gallons. I believe the fresh dosage is 4oz per gallon.

 

[Team Microbe]

This question is probably a repeat, but any recommendations for a micorrhizae mix? Does it really work to dissolve it in water and water it into the soil? Or do all the active micros get strained out and fail to penetrate past the top few inches of soil?

edit; Found an active thread that pretty much answers my questions. Should have looked first.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=280174

It may be slightly effective, but it's very wasteful when used like that. It's only active when it comes into contact with the roots, so dusting upon transplanting is the best way (and most efficient) to inoculate. Using endo's instead of ecto's is vital as well, although the hydro guy on your corner won't want you to know that while he's selling you the latest and greatest bottled mycorrhizae for $60+ a bottle...

I am using freeze dried coconut water at a rate of 1 Tablespoon per 5 gallons. I believe the fresh dosage is 4oz per gallon.

Spot on

 

[Team Microbe]

is lactoserum a good preventive for mold and powdery mildew tm???

I don't use any of that stuff, not because it's bad but I don't see a point really in living soil. Powdery Mildew attacks plants that are unhealthy, because those leaf surfaces are lacking lipids (fats in the form of a waxy coating which protects airborne spores from penetrating the surface) and it's wide open to whatever is floating around in the air. PM spores are present everywhere, you just breathed some in as you were reading this post. The reason why we're able to remain healthy is because we have a functioning immune system. Same with plants, if you inoculate that soil and provide your plants with a balanced and healthy soil mix - they will be resistant to PM (for the most part). The grey area in this whole situation is the genetic make up of your strains. If it's of weak genetic make up, it'll be more susceptible to mold.

Prevention is the #1 goal though, because PM is systemic so once you have it those plants will have it forever. You can maintain it, but they will always have it. This is why I threw out my mothers a few years back, they showed signs of PM and I didn't want any future clones to have the same problems. Foliar spray every week (even if you don't have it) with Cold Pressed Neem Oil (or Karanja Oil, same thing). Spray under the leaves first, then drench them on top afterwards just after the lights go out (or you will burn your plants due to the oil). If you already have PM, I would either toss the plants and start fresh or spray Neem/Karanja every 3 days for 3x, wait a week, then repeat. After 2 treatments like this you should have it under control, and from here you should spray every week as a precautionary. Stop spraying once in flower, because you don't want to ruin any pistils that will wind up in your jar later on.

PM is actually what turned me onto organic soil in the first place, I had a break down pretty much a few years back and almost quit growing all together because I didn't think I could beat it. Only once I realized it was due to unhealthy plants did I put in the research to finding out how to grow healthier ones. This is what led me to No Till



If you want to know more, head over to the thread I made on how to prevent airborne diseases from attacking your plants, it can be found here.

 

[Crusader Rabbit]

The last batch I bought from a nursery was course granules that wouldn't stick to roots very well. Guess I could crush it to powder. Not sure how anyone would know, but I wonder if the micorrhizae that take hold will spread fast enough along the root surface to keep up with elongating roots. What I don't want is a naked root tip encountering fusarium spores.

 

[Team Microbe]

The last batch I bought from a nursery was course granules that wouldn't stick to roots very well. Guess I could crush it to powder. Not sure how anyone would know, but I wonder if the micorrhizae that take hold will spread fast enough along the root surface to keep up with elongating roots. What I don't want is a naked root tip encountering fusarium spores.

Once you inoculate that root zone with mycorrhizae, whichever spores you chose will remain in that rhizosphere indefinitely. Think of it like an infection... because that's pretty much how it works

 

[Team Microbe]

quick update

quick update

Cheese Candy lookin like a menorah this week

Jack Herer x New York City Diesel is probably my favorite girl in the tent right now

"To learn, read. To know, write. To master, teach."

My castings are done!!! These were taken from the Worm Inn Mega I've had for a few months now - I just water the bedding from time to time and drop things like left over malted barley grains, comfrey, etc to add to the mix. No food, no cardboard, no egg cartons, none of that anymore. The results speak for themselves, the best castings are the ones you make yourself! And it's not that hard either; to harvest these I just took a 1/4'' screen and sifted the EWC through and into a bucket. Poked holes in the lid, and stored in a cool and dark closet. Best castings I've ever had the pleasure of using! And to think of how much money I spent on Rocky Mtn Worm Company's material... *slaps forehead*

Vermicompost Bedding:

3 parts high quality compost (I used Lobster Compost here)

1 part Rice Hulls

Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot

Neem Cake and Karanja Cake 50/50 Mix @ 1/2 cup per cubic foot

Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Brix Blend Basalt @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Glacial Rock Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

 

[heady blunts]

castings look nice!

one question --- why the oyster shell powder?

 

[Alg0rithm]

Hey TM, wanted to thank you for all the info and documentation. All top notch man. I have a question about your bedding for your worms. Do you use peat? Or is it just compost and peat?? And I'm guessing you let this mix cook before you put the worms in as well?

 

[Team Microbe]

castings look nice!

one question --- why the oyster shell powder?

For calcium mainly, I mimic my soil mix to a tee so the final outcome is as nutrient-dense as my mix itself. This is great for no-tilling (especially long term). The worms eat the amendments and love every second of it! Who would've thought this shit was so easy???

Hey TM, wanted to thank you for all the info and documentation. All top notch man. I have a question about your bedding for your worms. Do you use peat? Or is it just compost and peat?? And I'm guessing you let this mix cook before you put the worms in as well?

Thanks man, I love documenting grows because not only do others pick up little tid bits that they may find useful, but I really do learn a lot from all the feedback from everyone else. It's a win win

I used peat for my first run, and the quality wasn't there unfortunately. I scrapped the entire bin to my compost bin outside and started over with the advice of BlueJay over at GC after seeing his final outcome. There's no need for peat if you're creating humus IMO, quality inputs will always yield quality outputs so using a really rich finished compost will always yield the best results. I toss the rice hulls in to fluff up the bedding a little bit, and for the worms as they love eating them for some reason. So 3 parts compost, 1 part rice hulls, then amend that mix as you would a normal soil mix with all the essential inputs like the ones I listed. From here I'll brew up a malted barley SST and water the bedding with it for a week or two before introducing worms. You can drench with a compost tea if you don't have barley, as long as you're getting that biology pumping and those amendments break down you're good to go. I've heard stories of people introducing worms too early and having problems; I have yet to do this so I can't say it's completely necessary to wait more than a week but I like to be safe and wait 10-14 days

 

[Alg0rithm]

For calcium mainly, I mimic my soil mix to a tee so the final outcome is as nutrient-dense as my mix itself. This is great for no-tilling (especially long term). The worms eat the amendments and love every second of it! Who would've thought this shit was so easy???



Thanks man, I love documenting grows because not only do others pick up little tid bits that they may find useful, but I really do learn a lot from all the feedback from everyone else. It's a win win

I used peat for my first run, and the quality wasn't there unfortunately. I scrapped the entire bin to my compost bin outside and started over with the advice of BlueJay over at GC after seeing his final outcome. There's no need for peat if you're creating humus IMO, quality inputs will always yield quality outputs so using a really rich finished compost will always yield the best results. I toss the rice hulls in to fluff up the bedding a little bit, and for the worms as they love eating them for some reason. So 3 parts compost, 1 part rice hulls, then amend that mix as you would a normal soil mix with all the essential inputs like the ones I listed. From here I'll brew up a malted barley SST and water the bedding with it for a week or two before introducing worms. You can drench with a compost tea if you don't have barley, as long as you're getting that biology pumping and those amendments break down you're good to go. I've heard stories of people introducing worms too early and having problems; I have yet to do this so I can't say it's completely necessary to wait more than a week but I like to be safe and wait 10-14 days

Ok, so I would subsitute the peat with something like mushroom compost? Would Alaskan forest humus work??

 

[Team Microbe]

Ok, so I would subsitute the peat with something like mushroom compost? Would Alaskan forest humus work??

Yep, pretty much! The highest quality humus you can find/afford. Are you talking about the bagged AK humus? Or native humus?

Native would be good if you're doing this outside, but risks the potential of introducing unwanted critters that may be burrowing in the duff out there. The bagged AK forest humus is probably the best stuff you can use for this, but it's pretty pricey. The castings made from it would be priceless though, better than anything you can find online or in the grow store

 

[madininagyal]

thanks microbe man for the explication glad to see take your time to answer a newbie like me in no till gardening

 

[Team Microbe]

thanks microbe man for the explication glad to see take your time to answer a newbie like me in no till gardening

Np!

And it's Team Microbe, Microbe Man is Tim Wilson

 

[madininagyal]

lol sorry i don't know how i make this error


note for later: don't smoke too much before going to read some thread lol