I like to fight (balance) bugs with bugs.
Woa how would teflon tape even begin to work on a slip joint? As soon as you shove the pipe into the joint the tape would just peel away. Do you just wrap the end of it, like the part that is going to be close to butting against the end of the mating surface?
Guess I'll give teflon a shot, if that doesn't work I'm going to just glue everything and then run a hot water / hydrogen peroxide solution through it after each brew to clean it up. I need it to not leak though so I can run it inside when the cold weather sets in.
Nearly ever article on DIY tea brewers agrees that PVC joints are best left unglued, for the sake of ease of cleaning (and this makes sense). I just finished assembling my Turbo Vortex brewer (following Stephen Storch's design from microbeorganics.com). It leaks. Nearly every joint in it slowly leaks. Moreover, I didn't buy the cheap DWV PVC parts. I spent a few more bucks for the pressure PVC fittings (that have greater contact area in the joints), and it still leaks.
How are people avoiding leaks in DIY tea brewing systems with ungluged joints?
Mark the pipe depth where it fits into the joint. Insert the pipe into the joint about halfway and then put a wrap of tape near where you think the pipe will end up.
Gluing and sanitizing will work as well, just remember to leave the solution active long enough to get the job done. I like to use potassium permanganate because I can visually tell when it is spent, but it seems every time I mention it on ICMag, somebody gets their panties in a wad
Please try to remember that I am coming at this from a different perspective and body of knowledge. The fact is that Cl is known to not be a completely effective sterilizer. If it were, it would be more commonly used for specifically sterilization applications in fields such as zoos, aquariums, the hairdressing and manicuring industries, medical and dental 'wet sterilization' techniques, etc, etc, etc. In fact, in my experience in a couple of these fields, the two products I mention are often *preferable*. Not always, but often enough to, in my opinion and experience, to merit more than mere mention.
Both Cl and H2O2 present very real issues with their long term, and often short term destruction of the very materials or surfaces you *need*, for whatever reason, to disinfect. Remember also that, strictly speaking, disinfection or sterilization is different from sanitation. There is an additional problem with both compounds in that in order to kill some pathogens a certain contact time is required. Right there is a problem, as both bleach and H2O2 tend to break down more quickly than these others, especially if the mode of application is wiping or a very brief dip.
Both products I mention are often used, very safely I wish to add, around delicate organisms such as many snakes, frogs, and more aquatic species, including invertebrates, than I can count, let alone remember.
As far as cannabis? I don't know what to say, because I don't know if you've ever faced a total wipe out. I will say this, it's one thing to be prudent, it's another to be dogmatic. Just my opinion, of course. I mean, that the decision of how strictly one must apply another's definition or practices, is, so far, up to them.
I continue to apply what I know to be best practices to the best of my ability and means, and I do my best to remain open-minded, and read as much as I can.
It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a
manner inconsistent with its labeling. Do not apply
this product in a way that will contact workers or oth-
er persons, either directly or through drift. Only Pro-
tected handlers may be in the area during applica-
tion. For any requirements specific to your State, or
Tribe, consult the agency responsible for pesticide
regulation. PHYSAN 20 is a general bactericide, fun-
gicide, virucide and algaecide for hard, inanimate,
non-porous surfaces and for domestic horticultural
applications where cross-contamination can occur.