TAG aeroponics attempt, is this all I need??

[Oldmac]

Hey Me2,

All of my aero system's use 1/4" thru out also for that very reason. But over at Reptile Basics they made a direct issue abt not changing the 3/8" pump output of the Aquatec 8800 to 1/4" at the pump, they said it would create more pressure with out necking it down. This is what I did with my Surflo 8060 pump (changed to 1/4") with no problem.

They also suggest using thier 3/8x3/8x1/4" tee's for this. I did include using the elbow to lower all the tubing and connector's below the mister nozzles, something I did with the newer aero/fog trays.

BTW, almost all pumps have a built in check valve so water/nutes don't drain back thru the pump. Some people use check valves at each mister that won't flow till at least 30psi or so, that way water/nutes don't dribble out, I have not seen the need tho when using the elbows.

OM

 

[Me2]

If you are using a long pipe run and a lot of nozzles it may be worth using 3/8" as the 1/4" will cost you more psi in losses with a high flow rate at high pressure.
I use the anti drain valves in one setup. Mine open at 60psi and close at 30psi, they make a big difference to the mist response. The only thing that reacts faster is a solenoid located right at the nozzle.

 

[moonmaynestrain]

Ya that makes sense, especially with the pupm req's. Prob just stick with the original plan, but appreciate any and all ideas on here promoting a better TAG experience.

Here's one for you guys, I have a light that's adjustable from 200W-600W adjustable. You guys have any tips for wattage through out veg-flower. I.e. 200W as seeds then up to 600w @ full flower? Or is that kind of a judgement call?

Abd what light scheduel do you guys use? Would 18/6 for veg then 12/12 at flower (running scrog on this one) work? Or what have you guys had luck with?
Thanks again.

 

[Oldmac]

@Me2; I have the one pump running 4 trays with a total of 32 nozzles, all 1/4" tube/fittings and it takes 1 maybe 2 seconds to come up to full pressure of 205-210psi. So I've gone to 5 sec pump times. But I also have the Frapa fogger that runs 10 min (5min fills the trays) between mister events.

@moonmaynestrain; 18/6 for veg is fine and 12/12 is like defacto standard for flower. I may give you some insight to using far red supplemental lighting in the form of incandescent halogens bulbs (GE revels) that are cheap and easy to control seperately from your main lights. I'll get into that later for you.

OM

 

[Me2]

1/4" isn`t an issue with a few low flow nozzles and short pipe runs, 50ft of 1/4" tubing (0.15" id) running 1.6gpm would incur 100psi of loss
I run 24 nozzles in a large chamber on a 16ft manifold fed with a solenoid. The accumulator supplies the solenoid and the nozzles deliver mist for 0.8seconds every 1-2minutes depending on the growth stage.

 

[Oldmac]

@Me2, the setup we are currently running is 4 trays with a total of 32 nozzles of .012 orifice. It takes 1 maybe 2 seconds to pressurize. I get 205-210psi flat out. When I had just one tray with 8 nozzles I could get up to 240psi, so I assume some loss in the systems plumbing or just more orifices.

@moon, you asked me about veg/flower times vs other type of growing. Here's what I've found and maybe some others can add to this.

In my trays I only do flowering, the veg period is done in EZ-clonners that have been modified to do aero (external pump, changed some nozzles to small impingements while blocking off others, plus had to open up plant openings to accomadate 2" net pots and not just collars.

Using WR as an example, it takes my partner abt 70 days to flower in containers of pro-mix under 1kw HPS. In my personal grow with rockwool, abt 60 days and in the aero/fog trays it's 56-57 days. Since all 4 trays are together in one sealed room on the same light schedule it works out great. We figure on 8 weeks total, every two weeks a tray finishes and that day or two less gives time to clean up root mat and load a tray for next run.

We try to run strains that can finish in 8 wks, I have some Shiva Stunks that Sensi says flowers in 6 1/2 wks, but in the aero trays is closer to 6wks or 42 days. Only problem it is hard to work that in with strains that take 8 wks, in the other trays.

Since you are going SCROG, you will have probably at least 6 wks of veg and in that time you'll have massive roots. It's good that you are using a deep tote for your root zone, you'll need it plus much more spacing between plant sites. Between topping your plants to get more branches and needing to fill your screen at least 80% before flipping to flower it could be even longer.

OM

 

[moonmaynestrain]

thanks OM, good to see some someone with some proven info.

 

[PetFlora]

thanks for the input me2, makes sense, ill take that into consideration.

P.s. great to see you post on my thread! I've read all your posts on pefloras TAG journal, and you always had some great info. Having you oldmac and peflora all on here is like the holy TAG-trinity! This should be good. Thanks all you guys!

LOL. Most everything I learned about TAG I learned the hard way. Me2, chief among others, saved my ass many times as I worked my way through my first TAG grow where I did not have ALL the hardware in place in the beginning, and was therefor putting band-aids on shotgun wounds. Compounding my problems, I was also experimenting with organic additives which caused me numerous nightmares.

It took me several grows to learn how to read the root/root-hairs, and how to manipulate wet/dry cycles in order to get/keep the root-hairs instead of growing inefficient spaghetti roots.

Just when I thought I had a good handle on TAG, along comes another expensive lesson.

Last grow I had just flipped to 12/12 when we got hit with an unusual 5 day 90+ heat wave, where room temps were almost the same. Because it took me 5 days to realize the severity of the problem inside the pod and then wrap it in insulation, plus implement a simple pvc vent with a fan blowing by it to suck out the heat, the heat/humidity inside the pod literally baked my root hairs. The heat stress caused all four to become males here they all looked like females.

So my newest TAG lesson was learning/understanding the importance of ambient temps to internal pod temps and the effects that has on the roots.

I also upped my lighting game to a Quantum T 5 HO (8 bulb ~ 400 watts) and ordered aquarium bulbs which are 2-3Xs as bright with stronger spectrums than the cheap horticulture bulbs. Moreover, aquarium bulbs can be bought with specific PAR ranges that approximates the various ranges that makes LED so enticing/efficient. The problem with LEDs is the bulbs are fixed. As LED diodes or aquarium bulbs improve, unlike LEDs, with T 5s you change them. I can't wait to ramp up as soon as the summer ends

hth

 

[PetFlora]

Ya that makes sense, especially with the pupm req's. Prob just stick with the original plan, but appreciate any and all ideas on here promoting a better TAG experience.

Here's one for you guys, I have a light that's adjustable from 200W-600W adjustable. You guys have any tips for wattage through out veg-flower. I.e. 200W as seeds then up to 600w @ full flower? Or is that kind of a judgement call?

Abd what light scheduel do you guys use? Would 18/6 for veg then 12/12 at flower (running scrog on this one) work? Or what have you guys had luck with?
Thanks again.

This is good start. Keep in mind AFs seem to prefer 18/6 throughout, that is if they are stable. I bought some privately that refused to flower under 18/6.

I have read where increasing dark period during the last few weeks is beneficial, I plan to try that.

hth

 

[THEDOO]

I know this thread is a bit old but i am looking for the filter that goes in line before the pump not sure which one old mac was talking about

 

[PetFlora]

I would say the answer depends on a couple things:

1. How many pods off one rez? In my small grow I am using one DMfit inline quick-connect (press fit) filter ~$11.00. But I ran into clogging issues when a microbe colony invaded my rez. I also have from my first effort an irrigation filter which was configured in line between rez and pump. 1 X ~5" 200 mesh filter, but every time I took it apart to inspect/clean, it leaked. That's why I bought the DMfit. Since my rez has a bulk head fitting I decided to put the irrigation inside the rez. Oddly, colonies gone, and none in rez filter.

2. Organic or Inorganic nutes? Do not use organic nutes! They tend to breed microbes which will clog your mist heads and filters.

In my experience microbes seem to be most active at night, as it was mornings when I would find my plants wilted from clogging. hth

You might want to check out my active journal

 

[THEDOO]

No organics and i try to keep my res sterile as possible i use a chiller also and keep my res cold not to cold though

 

[LivingCanvas]

Just thought I'd say hello. I've been reading Pod Racers, Cavadge, Petflora's and others TAG threads. I'm currently waiting on a few JG fittings, and and accumulator tank... ok and a few gauges to completing my TAG setup. I want to thank all of you in the HP Aero threads for your innovation and commitment to furthering knowledge in the growing community. I have spent many hours soaking up your knowledge.

Also, as for sharing, I think I've found something interesting for micro/cab growers as an option for water atomization and reduced equipment/space requirements.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKsElmoVnpA

Could be done DIY with a Dremel motor and grinding accessory bit, and a low pressure relatively low flow cheap pump. I played around with my dremel an a grinding bit after watching this and the principle seems sound. I think this would be good for 1-2 XXgal system tubs. Larger setups with more growing sites/containers are better suited to using a pump/accumulator setup. (Although every system is different)
Happy growing!