SURFING

[guest121295]

No, I saw the waves that morning and called up my buddy who has a better camera.All you could see up the beach looking south was lines of spitting tubes, it was kinda like seeing bigfoot.At this season I'd rather watch. The cold water/air can give you cramps like you never felt, then you drown! The younger more flexible kids can do it but after 4-5 waves on the head, you start seeing a bright light at the end of a tunnel! It is a great place to learn to ride tubes from about April-Nov...

 

[Spicoli]

DAMN!!! Chaco that wave looks sick. Such a perfect righthand barrel. Not diggin the temps but you can bet your ass i'd be out there. East Coast all the way baby!!

I like the comparision of seeing perfect waves to that of seeing big foot. I know what you mean. You almost have to smack yourself to know your not dreamin

 

[Hemphrey Bogart]

Well, I'm out of commission for a while.

Went surfing after work yesterday despite what my little voice was telling me ("Wait until tomorrow, dummy. The tide's too low anyway."). Conditions were great: offshore winds, about 4-6' on the face, and firing. The tide was pretty low by the time I got out, but I figured I could still get a few before sunset. The drops were pretty critical, but totally make-able if you were committed and in the right spot.

Paddled for my first wave of the afternoon and I thought I had it, so I got up. As soon as I got to my feet, I knew I should have taken a couple more strokes. The offshore winds held me up near the top and the bottom just dropped completely out due to the low tide, so I decided to bail.

The damage: Hyperextended my left thumb trying to keep the board from hitting me in the head and got a nice welt the size of a grapefruit just below my right hip where the rail slammed into me. I didn't realize how bad it was until I got home. Man, this sucks.

The good news is: I didn't break any bones and I'll be surfing again, just not today. Thankfully, I got all my Christmas stuff done already, so I can just chill out and ice my leg. Got plenty of hash to smoke and I can still get around, albeit a little slow.

The worst part about this whole thing is that the surf is absolutely pumping today. 8-10' faces, offshore and sunny. Why didn't I just wait until today? Ugh.

HB.

 

[guest121295]

6-8ft and offshore! Sounds awesome dude! Despite the wipeout. Its 31 deg and snowing here, needless to say the surf is flat...keep that leg up and live to surf another day. I might buy myself a wintersuit, I've been thinking it over for a few I did pull the trigger on a new 600HPS ballast and a cooltube, its probably a better choice, the surfs pretty lonely around here in the winter and the few locals are rather unfriendly...I don't know how many of you have dunked into a tube when the water was 38 deg F, let me tell ya', its an experience!!

 

[Hemphrey Bogart]

RIP Sean Collins.

Forecaster extraordinaire and all around good dude. Check out the memorial postings over at surfline.com to see how many people this guy's work had an impact on.

Sean really changed the way I looked at the ocean. Surf forecasting wasn't even a job until he made it one which is one of the signs of a true innovator.

Balancing surfing and responsibilities has always been a problem for me, especially as I got older and had more stuff to do outside of surfing. Sean made it easier for me to drop what I was doing to go surf as I knew his forecasts were almost always 100% accurate.

Thank you for all you did, Sean. It was a good life and you spent it doing what you loved.

HB.

 

[guest121295]

No way dude!! I had no idea, when I was in college in SoCal he made it so easy to target a swell and hence not fail out of school.I saw him on a documentary, his kid was on the Huntington High surf team and his other kid was having some drug issues, they had a killer pad overlooking Huntington I think, with a mini skate ramp, damn, I'm real sorry to hear that.He used to nail the surf forecasts, I'd be waiting at Blacks beach, in the dark for that first 1.5 hrs of, well ya'll know Blacks, tube time for us goofys!!

 

[Al Botross]

 

[CalcioErba2004]

I love the perfect tube and that is a perfect tube...

 

[stasis]

above ^ Unreal photo..!!!

I have been getting back into it Cold NorCal style, after 2 years VERY far from the ocean, helping people with their gardens in another MMJ state..

Yesterday, suiting up with a few hits from the pipe (my Blue Cheese) - at Low tide, North of town - parking lot half full, many ab divers at this time of year, at a minus tide.. But all by myself in the water where the waves were. My only company - a large spotted Harbor Seal with Human eyes. He was checking me out as they like to do.. Usually, after I ride a wave they present themselves.. Obviously they are monitoring movement in the wave zone. 'Cause I have seen them play in the waves many times.

But, I was surprised that he swam under me, and from 6 feet away, stuck his head WAY out looking right into my eyes for a long moment...

I said "Hi Puppy..!' as I am wont to do..

For a moment I thought he'd bite my legs, so I laid down on the board.. Never considered that possibility before with Harbor Seals. Sea Lions YES, but not these round-faced Cuties. All good.

Caught a few more - the last being the largest and best - then paddled over to the other side of the bay to the exit place.

The Surf-Happiness stayed with me all day and night.

845am: Got my Herbal Tea, emergen-C, a couple hits of SSSDH, and now going back to that same beach, same tide, (same seal..?) right now..!!

Shaka..!!

 

[guest121295]

We had some unusually great surf last week.2-3 times every year or so we manage to have some big heavy barrels at the beach up the road...I don't think there's much better action than tuberiding.Even when the bar closes out with a big swell you can still go out with fins and grab some great views.I'd rather pull up inside only to be beaten on the sandbar than not.I love tubes and a bit of a puff never hurt...

 

[Pastelero]

Hey guys, great thread about surfing. love it!

In a month i´ll start my big trip!

First Kanada (Jun-August), do some hiking, kayaking and wrestling with bears. I definitely want to check out Tofino and surroundings for surfing!

Then down the Westcoast (August-Sept.), til San Diego and then a flight from LA to Costa Rica!(Nov.-Dec.)

There are a lot of Infos about the Westcoast, i´m interested in good informaions about Costa Rica!
Is it cheap to buy a board there, or maybe buy a board in the US and take it by plane?

I would appreciate some tips about Costa Rica, beside the HotSpots (Mal Pais etc.), maybe someone can help me!

Enjoy the glide!

 

[Al Botross]

not a full on surfing flix but damn good if I say so Myself

180 degrees South Conquerors of the Useless

http://www.180south.com/

 

[Hemphrey Bogart]

Hey Pastelero,

Your trip down to Costa should be fun. I went in June a few years back. Hit a ton of spots from Jaco all the way up to Ollies point and Roca Bruja (witches rock) and got my best waves up at Ollies.

The best time to go to Costa Rica from what I hear is late spring and well into summer, but I think you'll get waves anyway as some of the spots catch swell all year long.

I took a rental car and brought my boards, but there were board rentals in all the major towns that I visited. Stay away from Jaco, it's like the central american version of Tijuana. The beach break right outside of jaco can get fun and boca barranca (another good wave) is right near there too, but the danger factor is also increased. Saw a kid no more than 14 carrying a .45 in his belt as I was checking the surf one early morning at Hermosa. He walked by and didn't try anything, but maybe I was just lucky.

I'd like to recommend Mike Parise's book "The Surfers Guide to Costa Rica." Excellent book that includes break descriptions and maps to help you find the spots. I never got lost with that book and a good map.

Tip if you're going to drive a rental car: If you are on the highway and the cars going in the opposite direction are flashing their headlights at you as they pass, they aren't being rude! They're just trying to signal that a speed trap is just up the road and you're headed right for it. The cops in Costa Rica seem to love to set up speed traps where one guy sits holding the speed gun and the others wait for their turn to pull someone over for speeding.

Aside from the speed traps, driving was a cinch. I was by myself and did just fine.

Have a fun trip!

HB.

 

[Al Botross]

http://worldsciencefestival.com/wsftv

 

[supermanlives]

i have yet to try surfing. even tho i am in so cal.

 

[stasis]

Humphrey hit it on the head above about CR.. Surfers' Paradise...

Here is my ex-Travel Agent self coming out.. Maybe this info gets you excited, and you go...
Just to help...

I was Lucky enough to go to CR 4X.

Asked above, Should one bring a Surfboard, or not..?



There are those who MUST have a certain Stick with them, or even a whole "Quiver" of boards.. It is all good. Go for it. We all know however, that cheap board transfer fees where one could bring up to two or three boards in one big bag for one price are over.

It is no problem to find rental boards in most Surf Areas, and a whole lot
easier than toting one from home. One has to pay the exorbitant cost (and risk of
breakage) that the airlines ask.

For about $50-70usd a week, you can get a board
rental in most surfing areas. Sometimes, all that is available is an Epoxy NSP board, though.
Usually a good choice to pick from. All of the places mentioned below are very easy to rent a board at.

For those who want to learn how, Surf
Schools are all over the place nowadays... And they really will get you standing
within a few sessions.. No one enjoys surfing more than the person who just
stood up on their first waves..!

For longer stays, not a bad idea to
check out the local Surfshops to buy a cheap board that works for you. When you
bring it back to the same shop to sell it, you won't get what you paid for it..
So, it is about the same. If you are flush with cash, and want to do a good
deed, find a local kid who might benefit from you leaving the board for him/her. Perhaps that 20 dollar Surf Leash you brought. It is 40usd plus in CR. You
may be surprised by the reaction. In the "real" world, kindness still carries some weight.

Ticos are really friendly, earn some Travel Karma. Or simply just to be A Good Surf Ambassador, which is our responsibility.

As suggested above, I hear Jaco is sort of a pit. However, Some
people like Pits... Pits are relative.. It is a Freewheeling Pit, and one can receive certain "Services" in Jaco that are not available elsewhere...

Still for me no Jaco.. Went many years
ago, it was small then - I will carry that memory instead..
Oddly enough, something tells me I will visit Jaco one day, once again..
On my way to Pavones, or some Such.

Playa Hermosa is nearby Jaco. Was just a Big beach years ago. I am sure it is different now. More homes. The ocean is very powerful at Hermosa. Can break boards. Can be intimidating and not for the Novice.

Malpais (Santa Teresa) is Super Cool and Classic, but hard to get to. I would consider it
relatively "Feral." Has Some nice "Jungle Lodges," And Yoga Retreats, but not much on the Hilton
sort of accommodations.. AC systems are sometimes not really strong enough to truly cool the
rooms.

Nice international Vibe.. Smiles all over.. Sunset is a special time,
everybody is out on the Beach. Like a Daily Party.

In the daytime, during busy times, Loud ATV's
up and down Santa's dusty main drag can be noisy and make ya choke. No
sidewalks.. Also, it is a bit hectic up by Carmen and the junction of two larger roads.

Things don't always go as planned. Occasional outages.. You know, real
life in Pura Vida Land..

I really liked Santa.. Stayed for a month.
Would go back.
Great summer surf. Sometimes hollow. Crisp Mornings.. Howler Monkeys.. ATV's, watch out on the road..! Crappy pot. haha... Nice people. Fun local Soccer nights under the lights, with cheap local food and dogs on the field. (CR ain't such a deal as it used to be, got to score deals where you
can).

Tamarindo/Playa Grande... I cannot say much on this, although I was
there. It was years ago, and I know things have changed... Tamarindo grew up. I
do not know how much.
Playa Grande nearby, was a great place to surf before, and
probably still is. Big beach, peaks up and down.

North Guanacaste State
/ Playa del Coco - Flamingo - and enviorns is not so great for waves. You are
pretty much locked into a long boat ride to Witches Rock (Roca Bruja), which
while exciting is a hit or miss all the way to near the Nicaraguan Border.
Amazing trip, made cheap with 4 people.. But, for surf, I'd stay somewhere else.

Nosara (Playa Guiones) is a personal favorite too, surf
schools all over. And Yoga ... BTW, that combo means Females.. VERY hot
weather... Takes some getting used to. Easier to fly into Liberia Airport...
Laid back attitude on this long beach, Fo sho. I heard there was some Adult Fun
to be had at the South end of the sand, but I missed out on that... It is a Long
walk on a huge strand... Mucho Coca around here. Not my bag..

Some folks take the hard road (or a short
domestic flight and a ride and a boat, etc..) to near the Pacific border with
Panama - I have never made it there in 4 trips, but hope to do it next time.
Epic long rides on Big South swells. It is possible one would have to wait for a week or more for
one of these big S Swells, even in summer. Not tons to do down there, otherwise. People drink.

I stay away from heavy - or any -
drinking at first arrival (that can ruin you for days), if not the whole trip..
Long as I have smoke I am ok. Maybe a night or two with Tequila shots, but I
don't need it. Early morning is precious in CR..

For me, maybe not you - no judgement here - No Hard Drugs...
Even high grade at 20/g. Easier to
find than good bud.
Many people cannot resist.

I like CR.... For
some reason I always jones for time there, while I am tending the Summer garden.


The surf is so warm and wild. South Swells can be savage, and overwhelming 14 wave sets happen. Gets hectic, makes ya smile as you get another warm water massage.

Again., the pot generally sucks,
unless you get lucky.. Apparently it happens. Up in Nosara, I was offered the meagerest amount
of larf for 40$, and asked them to go back and try again.. They returned with
stuff just a little better. Enough for 2 doobs this time, not one..
Politely, I told the Fellow that I knew good from
bad, and unless he could do better - much better, we shake hands and have a good
night.

Friendly Guatemalan Dudes went away and came back 20 minutes later. One motioned me to 'come along.'
So, I complied. He led me to the Big Dude's house. I was led past 3 or four coke-addled teens and one Jaded Canadian Chick who was obviously along for the ride. Then, into the back room in total disarray, with
the mini-refridgerator that contained Jars of bud..

It was B-Grade at best, but
best I had seen here, so I scored an Oz or so.
300usd not a great deal, a mixed bag
literally.. I found a few decent buds in it..

Fortunately, I had also
brought a nice puck of dry-pressed kief from the previous
indoor harvest trim
fest. It was AFGOO, and almost too strong to smoke. Racy...!

Sometimes, I thought that the extreme heat did not mix with getting high. Weird
that...

So, it wasn't really a cannabis-themed trip. haha..


Summer (late april to Early Sept) has the dependable good waves. If you find yourself going at a different time of year, the Northern Guanacaste Area may be better - Tamarindo, etc.


A typical day on Costa Rica's Pacific Coast for a Surf Dude or Dudette:


Up at the crack of the Bellowing Howler Monkeys or Lovely
Screaming/Screeching Birds 445 am.
boardshorts on, grab an energy bar and/or
a banana.
The fruit is unreal.. Anti-oxidant rich.

In the water by
530 am 630 at the latest

Eat,

play or chill - its HOTTTTT... No
one's on the beach all day..
nap
eat
surf 45 minutes before sunset
until you cannot see anymore.
eat
smoke or drink or whatever ya
do
sleep - --

Start the cycle again

 

[stasis]

Dang NW Tradewinds have been blowing for weeks... Not a good time for surf during spring and summer, but this is ridiculous.. Makes sense that we are also having great sun this summer near the coast. ONshore winds are blowing the fog away, but also ruining the surf daily.

Oh well, it's that time of year, lots of work outdoors anyways... I'm Stoked just the same. September should bring some good waves...

 

[hashcat88]

^we must be in the same area. NW winds have been killing me for weeks

luckily made it down to el salvador for 2 weeks and just got back. man that was amazing, surfed some amazing waves including punta roca which was a head high barrel fest! got it on another day when it was quite hollow but just reeling down the point with overhead waves going on for 300yds in tropical waters

didnt smoke while i was there...wanted to take a tolerance break and not fuck with shitty nasty bud

 

[Hemphrey Bogart]

Nice hashcat!

El Sal is one of those places I have to go before I die. Glad to hear you scored some good waves.

I surfed twice last weekend. It wasn't bad in the early morning. There was a little south swell hitting so some parts of the beach were bigger than others.

Snapped my leash last Saturday morning after about 1/2 hour of surfing, which basically killed my session. I got some nice little glassy waves on Sunday early early morning, so I made up for Saturday by catching a bunch of good waves on Sunday! (until the wind came up around 8:30 am and started to hack it up).

All in all, not a bad summer so far for waves out where I'm at. We're usually socked in with fog and onshores for pretty much the whole summer.

HB.

 

[stasis]

COOL about the El Salvador trip... Great to blow off some steam in the S Swells of Summer.. And get Barrelled..!!!!

Still no real surf to speak of on this coast, and I do a reconnaissance of 25 miles .. Access is sometimes restricted up here, but plenty of places to check, if you;re willing to drive.

Some never get surfed, as far as I know. Occasionally, I run across good conditions and to avoid (the minimal) crowds, paddle out at some unnamed spot.. Being alone out there is never a good idea, but sometimes ya got to.....

At first, sometimes a bit of weird "Mysto" feeling, but after a couple sessions, it feels normal.

SHAKA..!