Sub's Super Soil

[heady blunts]

i'm pretty sure roots grown down first. feeder roots come second and grow laterally.

 

[Ganjasseur]

Nice bro but what is your base soil in your Super Soil. Do you use Ocean Forest as your base soil that is amended with what Sub suggest? How long did you let it cook? Did you add myco's? I have some great white shark, think i'll be adding it to the bountea or just straight to the soil mix.

Base, 50/50 Ocean Forest/Light Warrir. although you can mix your own or maybe better then OF is Roots Organic, Yes Mycos. 30 days cook add a little water and stir every week.

Good Luck on that White Shark!!

i think mad is looking at it from the view that if the stronger mix is at the top, watering will allow nutes to leach down and feed...

if anything both methods lead to optimization by evening out the mix in the pots and then cutting the ss with more base if its too hot.

 

[Bass Akwards]

Can't Have It Both Ways

Can't Have It Both Ways

Also something that deliver's a nice fade at the end of bloom ... Looking for something fully organic or as organic as possible

SubCool's version of "SuperSoil" is a supercharged version of the original recipe, popularized by "Vic High" on the B.C.G.A. site.

The original could be used twice, assuming a good tossing, moistening, and couple weeks rest between crops. The nutes broke down slowly, and yield wasn't significantly affected. It's as good, and cheaper, than most pre-bagged grow-shop cheat-peat when mixed a bale at a time.

The additional ammendments of the Subcool method only reinforce the level of nutrients that become available as the soil percolates. Those levels, IMNSHO, approach overkill, and might be more appropriate for, or be intended for, a particular breeders ... ahem ... "low yielding sativa dominant seedlines".

If you want "fade" at the end of bloom, you'll either have to use a weak mix from the start, or switch to another method.

Soil mixes are either organic, or not.

Peat based mixes are not neccessarily "soil" either.

 

[mad librettist]

His theory is your roots will grow into the soil as it needs the ferts. That is why on the bottom and not the top.

i'm familiar with the theory, but it's hogwash is the only problem.


if you drop a plant from a small pot into a bigger one, the roots will grow in all directions towards water and nutes. they won't grow into the "hot" area until they can handle it.

you gotta have your richest soil near the surface where you can maximize access to air. do this right, and you get a mat of roots near the surface. Once you have that, it's very very easy to top dress for quick results!

 

[Bullfrog44]

I do agree mad, just letting you know sub point of view. Your comment however has me thinking about this years soil mix........

 

[mad librettist]

in order to do what subcool wants (growing from light soil to hot soil), all you need is a layer of light soil directly around you roots. sort of like up-potting twice on the same day.

 

[Bullfrog44]

I always transplant into bag soil, instead of amended soil just for this reason. An inch or two around the transplant and you are golden. I am really going to have to research soil mixes this year because I have learned a lot that will change my soil mixes.

 

[Ganjasseur]

I like this thread and this mix. You guys have definitely given me some food for thought here.

 

[Bass Akwards]

We've observed "seamless" transplantion and up-potting when we spray the exposed roots of the plant with "liquid fish" ( stock dilution ). Be sure to wear plastic gloves though, that stuff will stink up your hands. Best time to do it is when the roots have "bottomed out" and turned upward in their 2nd or 3rd cups, and grown halfway back up the sides.

Three transplants from small to larger plastic foam cups can build an impressive root-ball either for a mother plant, a SOG run, or for a bush-style grow.

If you want the tops, you have to start at the bottom.