I didn’t see cypermethrin on the list of approved pesticides for cannabis
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Spider mites AKA The Borg
- Thread starter Flowerman
- Start date
I didn’t see cypermethrin on the list of approved pesticides for cannabis
M
Mr D
It's not to be used on cannabis in flower. As far as cannabis in veg you can look at the SDS and other available sources concerning it's 1/2 life and how's and what's about it's degradation. It's not systemic.
Nothing stopping you from taking clones of plants treated in veg and discarding those treated plants.
Point is that it gets rid of mites and eggs quickly, effectively and at a much lower cost than other methods.
Bottom line is to always do your own research.
last grow i sprayed with epsom salts, baking soda, apple cider vinegar and some lemon juice - sprayed at the end of 24, going into 12/12 - didn't see a mite till the end of the grow.... no webbing, no nothing - imo its better then any of the miticides i have bought....and its fukin cheap to brew...
Seriously, we're probably fighting two different types of mites. Mines have developed some sort of tolerance to natural remedies. I tried in the past using homebrewed remedies but those fuckers are one step ahead. I'm one step from nuking them
T
TheForgotten
There' always the Marc Emery method (dangerous but effective),
Use CO2 at lethal levels, like a whole 20 lb tank, and evacuate the room before you re-enter it.
Nothing can live through 5000 - 10,000 ppm carbon dioxide....
Use CO2 at lethal levels, like a whole 20 lb tank, and evacuate the room before you re-enter it.
Nothing can live through 5000 - 10,000 ppm carbon dioxide....
I might be the next guy on the news blowing up his house if I risk to attempt that.
I was thinking of using an ozzonizer to full power for 1 day or 2. That should also kill all living organism(?).
But I'll also need to sterilize the soil. I think that's how I got most of the pests in my current cycle. Infested store-bought soil. Was from Canna but I don't think it's their fault. Just bad storing conditions can probably lead to this.
What about sterilizing 30 gallons of soil? I looked into steam sterilization but I've too much soil to cook it in a pot and too little to buy a 5k$ steam sterilization machine.
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Use hot water on the soil to sterilize. You can also use zerotol, its a peroxide/parecetic acid stabilized blend. Try wettable powdered sulfur in veg, it will wipe out mites.
A week in bags in a chest freezer? Spider mites in areas that get that cold arrive there on wind from warmer places.
CannaRed
Cannabinerd
Interesting.
I thought they may overwinter in leaf litter or perhaps even below the soil line.
I am more and more convinced wettable dusting sulfer is the ticket......I just bought 25 lbs off of ebay for $45 delivered. 4 tablespoons mixed with 1 gallon of water, spray every 5-7 days up until 10th day in flowering. And I mean everything, walls, floors, pots, plants, etc. Keep stiring the mix as you spray. An 8-10 sq. ft. room should be covered by 2 gallons of spray. It is a very effective in killing thrips, rust mites, red spider mites and 2 spotted mites among other insects, pests and diseases. Spray when room is below 90 degrees, at night when lights out is best and try to stay out of the room for 12-24 hours. Use warm/hot water to disolve and use regular water to get to your gallon marker to help disolve thoroughly.
T
TheForgotten
It's something I read somewhere and the gist of it was it depends on the length and depth of the cold. Perhaps a week would be optimistic. Going the other way would not be too hard - baking in the sun outdoors under plastic.
I think the mites will just go dormant in the cold, but won't die.......... it's my understanding they can stay in that state for months, maybe 6. I think they will die if it's below freezing for an extended period of time, maybe a week or longer. Temps have to be over 130 degrees to kill them with heat.
I'm really tempted to overheat the grow room but 130°F would be possible only in the summer. I'm using HID so that extra heat is good for the purpose but no idea on how to safely warm up a 200ft2 area. They suggest dipping clones and seedlings in hot water (135°F) for 30min minimum. Impossible with a 12gal pot but extremely useful for gifted cuttings.
*#π¥~|^°!!!!!!!!!!!
is this mite..?
(i throw it to trash.. i have only one clone of her and she had web also but very few. i'm trying to save her. i think i can't never get fully rid off them but i can battle against. i had some mites in my past round but i won them with humidity and cemicals. i try that again.)
is this mite..?
(i throw it to trash.. i have only one clone of her and she had web also but very few. i'm trying to save her. i think i can't never get fully rid off them but i can battle against. i had some mites in my past round but i won them with humidity and cemicals. i try that again.)
Last edited:
Charles6Zero
New member
Hello there, long time lurker on this thread, and just recently joined!
Been growing weed since 2013, and since have dealt with spider mites since. I have used, neem, azamax, hot pepper spray , karnaja oil, citric acid , white vinegar dunks, cold showers, and now dry sulfur dips. I have found that for me sulfur is making a serious dent in the infestation. I had recently cloned some plants and after they rooted, showed signs of mite damage. I got some Bonide dry sulfur, first mixed at 1 table spoon per gallon of with a couple of drops of dish soap for a wetting agent. I did the first dunk and waited 5 days again another dunk and waited about the same time. I also did a little experiment with other plants, they were not the same clone batch, but older clones from a different mother. These plants I didn't dip in the sulfur solution but use it to wipe them down with a paint brush application even under the leaves. After 3 to 5 days the clones that were dunked in the sulfur solution show no mites. The plants that have been spot treated with the paint brush still have some mites. SO now all the plants have gotten sulfur dips. I checked them and I do see a reduction in the population. So i will dunk again probably tomorrow. I did find that using more than 1 table spoon per gallon can burn young seedlings and non rotted clones. The first dunk I only used 1 table spoon per gallon and had no issue. Second dunks I used two per gallon and it burned slightly the new growth on clones and seedlings. Hope this helps anyone out considering using sulfur.
Been growing weed since 2013, and since have dealt with spider mites since. I have used, neem, azamax, hot pepper spray , karnaja oil, citric acid , white vinegar dunks, cold showers, and now dry sulfur dips. I have found that for me sulfur is making a serious dent in the infestation. I had recently cloned some plants and after they rooted, showed signs of mite damage. I got some Bonide dry sulfur, first mixed at 1 table spoon per gallon of with a couple of drops of dish soap for a wetting agent. I did the first dunk and waited 5 days again another dunk and waited about the same time. I also did a little experiment with other plants, they were not the same clone batch, but older clones from a different mother. These plants I didn't dip in the sulfur solution but use it to wipe them down with a paint brush application even under the leaves. After 3 to 5 days the clones that were dunked in the sulfur solution show no mites. The plants that have been spot treated with the paint brush still have some mites. SO now all the plants have gotten sulfur dips. I checked them and I do see a reduction in the population. So i will dunk again probably tomorrow. I did find that using more than 1 table spoon per gallon can burn young seedlings and non rotted clones. The first dunk I only used 1 table spoon per gallon and had no issue. Second dunks I used two per gallon and it burned slightly the new growth on clones and seedlings. Hope this helps anyone out considering using sulfur.
i toooo deal with mite in my tents during the growing season - i only grow 6mos out of the year, the other 6mos, the tent is cleaned and empty, but those little fuker's come back- so if i'm sure there are no mites on the plants when placed in the tent, but could still be some hibernating on the floor/etc, is there some jell or something else that i can put on the trunk of the plant which will stop them from getting to the leaves?? - i know for outside there are sticky wraps for trees- the bugs cant get by the wrap- wonder if this could be at least a partial solution to the borg??
Lyfespan
Active member
i was just looking for feedback on this stuff, might give it a try. really miss sm-90
