Source of Calcium without Nitrogen.

[Douglas.Curtis]

Yeah... KNF water soluble calcium and mag sulfate (epsom) are significantly easier to grow 'clean' cannabis with than with cal/mag/nitrate bottles.

 

[Creeperpark]

Anyone ever use this?

 

[f-e]

I have seen others speak of this on here. In Bill's cheap nutrient lines thread I think.
I'm interested in Canna Calmag Agent to. It's to harden the water up, giving a more stable tank, without effecting the nutrient balance. I can only see one bad pic of the label, which might be 1-0-0 and 5 things actually listed. My suspicion is that it's also carbonates. It's dose is defined by a hardness target. Just enough to get your water EC right, before adding the feed.

I have near 300ppm of calcium carbonate in my water, but it's not enough to meet my calcium needs. There has been a lot of discussion about calcium carbonates availability over the years. With some staunch support for both yes and no. With the type of pH acid in use making a good showing.

I know Andyo (rip) was working on a pH perfect solution, using Australian chalk, as it's high purity. It was very much early stage testing, but it was all panning out as he wanted.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

IME with plants and my research on enzymes, pH variability makes for a much healthier plant at lower nute strength, while also producing much more complex terpene and cannabinoid profiles. Though a pH perfect environment makes things easier for the grower, I've always been against it for quality cannabis.

The varying pH allows the plant to absorb all elements with ease, given an appropriate enough swing time. This allows a much lower nute strength to be used, giving a larger buffer against overfeeding when unwanted changes in transpiration happen.

 

[Roadblock]

Interesting how these formulas arise from unknowns. My ultimate goal is to always 'barely' provide just enough for healthy cannabis growth. Excess is the silent quality killer, and present long before the plant shows visible signs of it.

I skip as much of this guesswork as possible by using r/o filtered water, then using water soluble calcium (KNF). When the leaves start showing the puff from too much calcium, I know the plant will need a touch less next run. This way I have extremely little calcium variation (and nearly nothing else) in my source water.

I like the idea in crop steering where they run very high EC, but its manipulated with the idea of the plant eating all it wants at the optimal times, its like an athlete is on supplements, I have two week old cuttings now that run at 2.5 EC, with 6 feeds of 150 ml with about 50-100 ml runoff every second feed, they are feed 3 hrs after lights on as they start to transpire effecting the moisture level, the lights are turned up an hour after that first feed then feed every hour for 1 minute 150ml, with a 12 hour dryback until we start again tomorrow, its the first time Ive fed plants like this and its an eye-opener so far, Ive just bought Octa Bubblers and pressure pump to control the feed volumes more accurately and have just got a pulse Meter to tell me the moisture EC and temp in the root zone. Im in Coco Perlite with Air-Pots.

 

[Creeperpark]

I hear people talk about calcium carbonate not being available but in my belief and experience calcium carbonate does work, and it works well, however you have to allow enough time for it to dissolve in water before using. The breakdown time for solubility is about 12 hrs. in pure water. To me, It's the Whiskey to Wine stronger when used correctly.

 

[Three Berries]

I hear people talk about calcium carbonate not being available but in my belief and experience calcium carbonate does work, and it works well, however you have to allow enough time for it to dissolve in water before using. The breakdown time for solubility is about 12 hrs. in pure water. To me, It's the Whiskey to Wine stronger when used correctly.

When I mix nutes with my well water you can see the CO2 being released. Takes about 12 hrs to stabilize as the pH slowly rises. I've gone back to well for up to the flower phase. My well water is ~400 ppm with a Ca/Mg ratio of 93/7, and just a touch of iron for taste.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Any excess in the root zone will have some of it end up in the plant unconverted. This will never flush out in a month of sundays. If your goal is weight, excess EC pump and dump will pack weight on at the expense of quality.

 

[Icemud]

When in organic soil with healthy microbes/bacterias.... Powderized Calcium Carbonate, Soft rock phosphate, crab shell meal, all are great sources of calcium. Just be careful with adding calciums as it has a tendency to lock out other nutrients.

I've seen people also create fermented calcium by fermenting egg shells, but I've never done this and think this may lead to contamination from salmonella but Its not really my forte, so not sure.

My "go to" was always botanicare cal/mag plus but now I am just using Jacks Calcium Nitrate and its much cheaper than buying bottled cal/mag.

 

[Icemud]

Anyone ever use this?

View attachment 18711717 View attachment 18711718

I used this stuff for a while, when I was running earth juice "teas" and bubbling for 48 hours prior to feeding. I never really liked this Cal/mag because it doesn't seem to play nice with other nutrients and within 1-2 days will turn into a sludge type consistency. It does make for a great foliar spray additive though. Its also VERY acidic and will drastically lower your pH and smells pretty strong.

 

[DoubleTripleOG]

I'm so serious when I say this...

If your Cannabis Plant isn't over 6ft tall and 4ft wide and is growing in soil...... The reality is.....
You don't even need to feed your Cannabis Plant at all.

Cannabis is not a fucking Beta fish that you gotta give some fish flakes to everyday to "Feed".

Look people, ever since 2014 after Colorado made it recreational and errrrbody and they mama could grow their "bag seeds" out......the quality of weed has gone downhill......almost everything, everywhere OVERFERTILIZED and growing from highly recessive crosses of recessive crosses. aka "SNICKLEFRITZ"

Dispensary Warehouses religiously overdosing the plants with CAL-Mag , and Nitrogen...... yuck....... It all tastes like shit and looks like shit too. Why do you all think the small amounts of stuff grown "Correctly" and considered the "Dankest" ends up in jars for 60-75 an 8th in a dispensary and everything else that is available is nowhere near as good?

#1. Genetics is EVERYTHING!!!
You are not gonna get the dankest weed EVER out of a bobby brown bag seed because, "YOU GREW IT"..........

#2 Calcium is the FUCKING DEVIL TO CANNABIS!!!
It is an "Immobile" nutrient that blocks/clogs cells and if given to much will fry your plant out from the inside out.

#3 If your plants are not huuuuuge outdoor "Master Grow" size plants..... You prolly will not ever need to "FEED" your plants. Look at your Soil bag and how it already says, "Treated to feed plants for up to 6 Months" . Average Life cycle of a Cannabis Plant in a person's personal grow is 6-7 months...... From seed to Harvest...... If you aren't growing them that big?? Then there is no reason to "Feed".....

Example of OVERFERTILIZED Cannabis :

View attachment 18127987

Example of Cannabis that is NOT OVERFERTILIZED:

View attachment 18127988



STOP OVERFERTILIZING YOUR CANNABIS PLANTS PEOPLE!!! BRING THE DANK BACK!!!!!

"ONLY YOU CAN PREVENT SNICKLEFRITZ" - Randy Lahey

If you're using Miracle Grow or the equivalent for soil......you're doomed from the start. I try and steer all new growers away from those type products. Most ignore the warning and use it anyways. Then wonder why their weed turns into a black lump of coal in their pipe.

I couldn't agree more about overfertilization . That's a nationwide problem, not just regional. That being said. Salts can be used with great results. I been growing grey/white ash buds for years now. Using JR Peters Jack's Classic Bloom Booster. 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water.

And yes Calcium without NA, Gypsum is the answer. The comment about needing microbial action to make it available. That's exactly what you want. Lot's of that type action going on in the root system. And yes even using salts you can build a healthy soil web of benificials. I see it almost every day in my own room.

 

[xet]

Calcium Chloride is like road salt. Don't use it. Limestone would be safer.
Calcium forms mentioned in the previous post are nice as well.

x2 on limestone

 

[Three Berries]

There is a huge difference between calcium chloride and road salt> Sodium Chloride. Though they use a lot more calcium chloride for the roads now vs the salt as it's better for the roads and bridges and is easily sprayed on the roads. They save the salt for heavy snow loads.

The benefit of using it vs limestone is it's immediately available when added to water, not tied into a buffer compound. Calcium in a form the plant can use is the goal.

My whole problem started when I quit using my limestone laden well water for the rainwater mantra.

So now I use both calcium chloride and magnesium chloride.

 

[xet]

I make all natural actively aerated compost teas and my plants really prosper by it.

Nothing extraordinary, just happy plants.

 

[Three Berries]

Last year I had a huge Chicken of the Woods fungus on a stump out front. This year it is all desiccated and falling apart. It's white so I bet that the carcass is a mineral storehouse of calcium.

 

[George]

Your rising ph through your cycle is because you have 300ppm cal carb in your water IMO.

Also, did that other guy really say calcium is toxic to cannabis? Interesting statement lol

Here is a snippet mentioning N and K ph affect. N lowers PH and K raises it per this study statement. IMO this means follow your ph. When the ph starts dropping, the plant is not using N and leaving it behind but taking the K. Ph goes down. So as the ph starts to lower through the cycle we can low N and add K to balance what the plantbis asking for. Makes sense. I haven't proven any of this with lab tests or anything.

I have seen others speak of this on here. In Bill's cheap nutrient lines thread I think.
I'm interested in Canna Calmag Agent to. It's to harden the water up, giving a more stable tank, without effecting the nutrient balance. I can only see one bad pic of the label, which might be 1-0-0 and 5 things actually listed. My suspicion is that it's also carbonates. It's dose is defined by a hardness target. Just enough to get your water EC right, before adding the feed.

I have near 300ppm of calcium carbonate in my water, but it's not enough to meet my calcium needs. There has been a lot of discussion about calcium carbonates availability over the years. With some staunch support for both yes and no. With the type of pH acid in use making a good showing.

I know Andyo (rip) was working on a pH perfect solution, using Australian chalk, as it's high purity. It was very much early stage testing, but it was all panning out as he wanted.

 

[Roadblock]

I used this stuff for a while, when I was running earth juice "teas" and bubbling for 48 hours prior to feeding. I never really liked this Cal/mag because it doesn't seem to play nice with other nutrients and within 1-2 days will turn into a sludge type consistency. It does make for a great foliar spray additive though. Its also VERY acidic and will drastically lower your pH and smells pretty strong.

I had a cal deficiency starting with some rust spots and a little twisting of leaves and had 1/2 a bottle of that sup sitting on the shelf, anyway mixed it in the nute tank and the next day the nutrients were cloudy and a scum was forming, anyway it was only a stop-gap at the time and seemed to halt the cal problem as the twist was gone quickly, it got me through a few days until my new nutes arrived, but I don't like the scum it created.

 

[DuskrayTroubador]

Milk.

1 part milk, 4 parts water.

Foliar is best.

 

[Randy Lahey]

The amount of "bro science" on this site anymore is sickening...

 

[Three Berries]

Going thorough about 150 ml a day of 1300ppm CaCl , plus foliar feeding with the same every other day on my current grow trying to keep up with the high CO2.