congrats on your continued awesome documentation. can't wait to hear the results and see what you build next.
Seeking Critique on Vert Colosseum SOG concept.
- Thread starter Anti
- Start date
waiting, waiting, waiting.
^^^ A Nug In Detail ^^^
^^^ Another Nug ^^^
^^^ Wanted to Show You How I Keep Light Out of My Jars ^^^
^^^ They're cheap, reusable and take a minute to make ^^^
FINAL MANICURED WEIGHTS
(No Stems, no sticks, hand trimmed)
439.5 g / 15.4 oz / 0.96 lbs
GPW: 0.54
This doesn't count all the stuff I quick dried and started smoking about a week before harvest, nor all the stuff I've been smoking over the last week.
I finally had a humidifier, so I used it during the dry to keep things from drying too quickly. Allowed me to trim less frantically and I'm very satisfied with the results in my jars.
I'm less pleased by my yield, but that's why a re-build is in order. Bottom tier is too far from the top tier and too narrow.
So I got nearly the same yield from round two that I got from round one, but the top plants were a lot better this round.
Still not getting the density that I was getting under CFL.
I'm going to get some HPS lamps and do a run with them so that I can compare. (suggestions appreciated.)
I finally had a humidifier, so I used it during the dry to keep things from drying too quickly. Allowed me to trim less frantically and I'm very satisfied with the results in my jars.
I'm less pleased by my yield, but that's why a re-build is in order. Bottom tier is too far from the top tier and too narrow.
So I got nearly the same yield from round two that I got from round one, but the top plants were a lot better this round.
Still not getting the density that I was getting under CFL.
I'm going to get some HPS lamps and do a run with them so that I can compare. (suggestions appreciated.)
Last edited:
Make with the 
already, jeez!
already, jeez!
I've got a little vacation coming up in a couple of weeks. I want to crack some beans so that I can try some other genetics out soon, but I don't know if I should chance it until I get back.
Here are some genetics I was gifted, if anyone has experience with any of them please give me your thoughts and ideas:
Grape Skunk
Sour Tahoe OG x Grape Skunk
ChemDog x Menage a Trois
ChemD x Grape Skunk
Thanks guys!
Here are some genetics I was gifted, if anyone has experience with any of them please give me your thoughts and ideas:
Grape Skunk
Sour Tahoe OG x Grape Skunk
ChemDog x Menage a Trois
ChemD x Grape Skunk
Thanks guys!
D
DHF
Respect my buddy......Yields will increase with the HPS if for nothing else the density factor....and stackin the tiers will also let both levels absorb lumens better with the bulbs dropped down where each level`s far enough away for no scorchin/bleachin , as well as increased transpiration and nutrient uptake that`not a good thingy , and prolly a big factor in the lower tier suckin fer yields.....anyways.....
Enjoy the vacation and the nugs.....and.....Get rid of enoughta take care of upgrades.....always.....
Peace...DHF....
........
Enjoy the vacation and the nugs.....and.....Get rid of enoughta take care of upgrades.....always.....
Peace...DHF....
........
Here's the current iteration of what is going on in my head for the rebuild. Haven't actually started building a 3d model, but this should get the point mostly across.
KEY
Green = Plant
Yellow = 2 ft. radius from bulb
White = 4 ft. beds
Light Blue = Wiggle Room for pulling tables out for trimming
Black = Walls
Turquoise = Reservoir Room (2.5' x 4')
Each tier would be square (for ease of build) but plants would only be planted where they could make the best use of the light.
(The extra space in the corners is just extra medium for roots to grow into.)
Each side of each tier would be approximately 6" wide x 4 ft. long x 1 ft. deep and hold four plants.
Each tier would hold 16 plants and I would do at least two tiers per flip room. (Each flip room would have two 400w lamps hanging in the center of the space. I need to determine the proper amount of vertical distance to place between the two tiers. (Anybody with a 400w lamp and a light meter wanna check that for me? Like, how far below or above a hanging 400w lamp will still get 5000+ lumen?)
The spot where the hoses attached to the tables would be equipped with quick-connect fittings, so the table could be unhooked from the feed line for ease of trimming.
Each side would be on casters to facilitate moving them in and out easily, and each room would have six inches on either side for wiggle room.
Thoughts and criticisms are appreciated. If something isn't clear, let me know.
Damn, about the yield, but damn them buds look good.
Just my 2 cents, but I strongly think if ya hadn't removed so much of the side branches, your yield would have been a lot better. The humidifier will definitely improve things next round for sure.
Looking forward to what ya decide to do next as always. Try and keep it simple man. There are a lot of little things that make for a successful grow and nobody talks about them because they are too embarrassed. Kudos for your honesty Anti, it'll pay off in the long run.
Just my 2 cents, but I strongly think if ya hadn't removed so much of the side branches, your yield would have been a lot better. The humidifier will definitely improve things next round for sure.
Looking forward to what ya decide to do next as always. Try and keep it simple man. There are a lot of little things that make for a successful grow and nobody talks about them because they are too embarrassed. Kudos for your honesty Anti, it'll pay off in the long run.
D
DHF
The height of the tiers to insure the bottom layer won`t grow into the top layer`s grow area and choke out light and environment is more of a factor than determining how far to space the bulbs above and below each other since yas`ll have 50 watts per sq ft in place........and....
It all depends on when yas pull the trigger on fully rooted cuts to know where they`ll be height - wise by end of stretch , and that determines how far apart each level needs ta be to dial results consistently once the sweet spot is found......and again......
That`ll determine where your stacked bulbs needta be to blast sideways lumens and make them bitches hoon .....Trust me Bro.....
You`re on the cusp of bustin through and makin leaps and strides with what you`ve already learned and grown from.....The most important lesson is that you`ve learned what NOT to do and keep movin forward........that said.....
Flip rooms will make yas healthy , wealthy , and wise.........A month or so apart in age and harvey`s double on a yr to yr basis while power consumption levels off with smaller grows and is easily absorbed for the returns that`re possible.....anyways....
Go vacation and then get yo ass to work........You can doooo it....
Peace....Freds............
It all depends on when yas pull the trigger on fully rooted cuts to know where they`ll be height - wise by end of stretch , and that determines how far apart each level needs ta be to dial results consistently once the sweet spot is found......and again......
That`ll determine where your stacked bulbs needta be to blast sideways lumens and make them bitches hoon .....Trust me Bro.....
You`re on the cusp of bustin through and makin leaps and strides with what you`ve already learned and grown from.....The most important lesson is that you`ve learned what NOT to do and keep movin forward........that said.....
Flip rooms will make yas healthy , wealthy , and wise.........A month or so apart in age and harvey`s double on a yr to yr basis while power consumption levels off with smaller grows and is easily absorbed for the returns that`re possible.....anyways....
Go vacation and then get yo ass to work........You can doooo it....
Peace....Freds.......
.....
G
Guest 88950
the new design looks nice. have you thought about growing in coco slabs like Gauis is doing? they seem like they would be ideal for your set-up.
bean selection: Chem x MAT
would be nice to see you grow them. i need to get to my pack to see what they are about.
bean selection: Chem x MAT
would be nice to see you grow them. i need to get to my pack to see what they are about.
Hey Anti,I would like to suggest two Eye hortilux H.P.S. for your next run.
I did a few runs with a 400 M.H. low and an Eye Hps on top and my botton stuffs were smaller and fluffy as the tops were dense and much more massive.
Hook it up and see what happens.
L
LouDog420
I grew the chem/mat... Slower growing with some leafier phenos. The smoke was knock out.
Picked a winner and she went nuts (balls) all over my room when temps hit 93 and I lost my AC on my third run with her. Wish she didn't do that, cause it was a great cut.
My .02...
Picked a winner and she went nuts (balls) all over my room when temps hit 93 and I lost my AC on my third run with her. Wish she didn't do that, cause it was a great cut.
My .02...
I had the same experience as Lou with the chemd x mat---an extremely beautiful chemd dominant pheno was my favorite, but on a hot day she self-pollinated.
my second pheno must have some of the cinna haze because it's been 12+ weeks and she doesn't look done yet. no herm issues however.
both are very low yielders.
my second pheno must have some of the cinna haze because it's been 12+ weeks and she doesn't look done yet. no herm issues however.
both are very low yielders.
Another idea in the germination stages....
This would work out to two tiers with 24 plants per light.
These plants would HAVE to be budsicles to work.
Bobble was kind enough to provide me with light readings from his meter that suggest that a 10" to 13" radius is going to be my "goldilocks zone" around my 430w Son Agro lamps that I will be picking up shortly.
So, armed with that knowledge, I drew this:
The yellow ring represents the "goldilocks zone". The inner edge of the ring is 10" from the center of the lamp and the outer edge is 13" from same.
This would allow for 24 small plants per tier. I was actually considering going back to my mini-treepots if I went ahead with this. For one, it would greatly simplify construction. For another, the limited lateral root space would encourage the plant to stay within a small foot print.
I could rig my main drip line in a circle and drop one stake into each tree-pot. So I'd still be automated, top-fed drain to waste, but I'd be able to move plants if need be. I could also setup a 10" radius screen around the inside and basically make this a tiered, SOG version of the popular "weed donut" idea.
24 plants per tier x 2 tiers = 48 plants per 800w
800w / 48 plants = 16.666666666667 g per plant to hit 1 gpw.
Please tell me why this won't work.
This would work out to two tiers with 24 plants per light.
These plants would HAVE to be budsicles to work.
Bobble was kind enough to provide me with light readings from his meter that suggest that a 10" to 13" radius is going to be my "goldilocks zone" around my 430w Son Agro lamps that I will be picking up shortly.
So, armed with that knowledge, I drew this:
The yellow ring represents the "goldilocks zone". The inner edge of the ring is 10" from the center of the lamp and the outer edge is 13" from same.
This would allow for 24 small plants per tier. I was actually considering going back to my mini-treepots if I went ahead with this. For one, it would greatly simplify construction. For another, the limited lateral root space would encourage the plant to stay within a small foot print.
I could rig my main drip line in a circle and drop one stake into each tree-pot. So I'd still be automated, top-fed drain to waste, but I'd be able to move plants if need be. I could also setup a 10" radius screen around the inside and basically make this a tiered, SOG version of the popular "weed donut" idea.
24 plants per tier x 2 tiers = 48 plants per 800w
800w / 48 plants = 16.666666666667 g per plant to hit 1 gpw.
Please tell me why this won't work.
G
Guest 88950
Anti
a friend grows in similar set up that has 2 levels and each level has 1 600 and the plants are in 2 rows stadium style per level. they use a plastic kiddie pool to catch run-off and there is a hole large enough for the cool tubes to go thru and they use 1/4" foam board to build up around the hole in the center to contain run-off.
the levels are staggered 15 days apart so the harvest is like clock work.
a friend grows in similar set up that has 2 levels and each level has 1 600 and the plants are in 2 rows stadium style per level. they use a plastic kiddie pool to catch run-off and there is a hole large enough for the cool tubes to go thru and they use 1/4" foam board to build up around the hole in the center to contain run-off.
the levels are staggered 15 days apart so the harvest is like clock work.
Thanks for sharing. I can't quite picture all the stuff you're describing, but I think I've got the gist of it.
My plan is to build two identical rooms with two identical tiers. So that way I'd have 48 plants in each room and they'd be spaced out about 5 weeks apart from one another and run for 10 weeks. So that the next harvest would always be about 5 weeks away.
I just wanna get it right!
