Sealed room help lots of questions...

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I am going to to do a sealed room in a house with a room over garage (ROG).

Still looking at multiple houses, but most likely the room size I will find will be around these dimensions:

8-10 ft wide 7-9 ft ceiling height and 16-20ft long.

4k watts flowering will be ran most likely in a straight line.


Electric questions:

I plan on having an electrician come over and install a 50 amp dryer plug in the ROG. This is so I can plug this in to it since I don't know how to make my own and run all of my flowering room equipment off of it:

http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/ItemMatr...d&selelement4=undefined&selelement5=undefined

Will that work? Do I have the right idea and right equipment? I will be using the plug n play version of course and just plugging it in right to the dryer power thing I will have installed.


Air conditioner:

Mitsubishi MSY-GA24NA Mr. Slim Wall Air Conditioner 17.5 SEER - 24,000 BTU (2 Ton)

Questions:

How much power does this require? Will I need an electrician to install power source before HVAC tech comes over to install it? Or do the HVAC guys do everything? Could I run it off of the DPC-12000TDC that plugs into the dryer plug in I will have installed? I'd rather not have to have more electric work done than needed.

Do I need more electricity for my air conditioner split unit? I don't know how much power the thing needs or how it even gets electric. I planned on having a professional HVAC tech install it as everyone in this state I am looking at has one of these so not really worried about security.

Very important: I plan on renting the home I find for 2-3 years, when I move is it easy to have an hvac tech uninstall it? Or is it there to stay?

____________

Co2:

Here is the controller I have picked out:

http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=AACIGS220&eq=&Tp=

Question: How in the hell does this thing plug in? Is it plug n play, like I can just plug it right into DPC-12000TDC? It shows no wiring or cords in the picture so I have no idea what or how you plug it in or if any wiring is involved.

Here is the Co2 generator I picked out:

http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=ACO2PNG04NGAC&eq=&Tp=

What accessories will I need to purchase along with thing co2 generator other than a controller to make it function properly? I am hoping I can just plug it into the controller and it comes with all it needs other than the propane tank.

Here is the dehumidifier I plan on using:

http://www.greenspirithydro.com/details.php?prodId=464&category=35&secondary=&keywords=

Good to go?

Thanks for anyone who can help me. I am very confused by all this new equipment, but realize I need to master sealed rooms as I already have mastered non-sealed rooms and tents.

 

[PuReKnOwLeDgE]

hey 40!

I have been installing these units in rooms I have been working on. I usually almost always have a room in the works some where, helping friends and family join the medical marijuana field.

These units are much cheaper and will suit your purpose, I'm not a huge bargain shopper I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for, but for me this device worked well for what i was looking for. It needs a 30amp plug to run 4k.

http://cgi.ebay.com/30-Amp-Light-Co...409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a5141c31

I hook up this to the trigger cord: MDT-1

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sentinel-MDT-1-...060?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c18c64434

The reason I love to use the MDT-1 is the high temp shut down and loss of power protection. Peace of mind


The air conditioner specifications should include power source. Wherever you are browsing I am sure most retailers make this info available. Mostr likely you will want a dedicated circuit to run this, so yes you will want an electrician to install a proper sized plug/circuit for the unit. Mini split right? Most mini splits just need a 2" or so hole bored through the house for hoses, and of course the mounting holes for inside unit. Besides that they should be easy to uninstall for sure.

You should only need a propane tank for your co2 setup, I am not familiar with the controller either.

FYI as far as dehueys go "Santa Fe" makes really nice units form what I have read. The on your are looking at seems nice, I am just unfamiliar.

Hope I helped a bit

 

[Cheeb]

That light controller will do the trick, but way more/expensive then you need to just run 4000w @ 240v.

50a is typically a stove plug so just make sure you dont have a typical 30a dryer outlet installed.

- -

Ask your HVAC guy that question. Both the indoor unit will need a power source as well as the outdoor unit.

You could remove it when you move out, but there will be holes in the house where the refrigerant lines came in and out... as well any holes it took to get the electrical where it needs to be.

- -

I'm not familiar with plug n grow stuff, but can vouch for the quality of Sentinel generators and controllers.

I'd suggest a Sentinel adjustable burner along w/ their PPM-4 controller (Sentinel not the CAP one). If you can locate a GreenAir SPC-1 they are solid simple generator controllers.

You dont need a controller that does anything other then control the PPMs - turning your generator on/off. AC/Dehumidifer would just use their own controls and I wouldnt plug them into a controller like that. Get a simple co2 controller.

The controller just plugs in the wall and your generator plugs into it. You want it to have constant power as it'll turn off at night anyways (most do).

I'd go with the Sante Fe Classic dehumidifer. Mr Slim + Sante Fe = Pro

Best of luck!

 

[PoopyTeaBags]

Hey 40 these are the cheapest and nicest ive found so far... they seem to have a great customer service and can get a premade or custom controller.... dxsoundo.com.... best prices by FAR!!....


your a/c i would think would be at least 30a if not 40.... i would think the hvac guy could do it but he may say he cant... ask before... as for it being there for good??/ nothing is there for good bro if something can be installed it can be uninstalled... you may have to run new lines and shit but the hardware will still be fine and moveable....


as for the co2 controller i think they are way to fancy and overpriced... are youjust trying to get something basic to turn on and off the co2 when it reaches a level??? If so you can buy this meter from cap for like 250$ that hooks up to you co2 and shuts it off when it reaches a certain PPM....


as for the Dehu i am interested... but sante fe's are suppose to be the best... but are like 1500$ and im not smart enough to be able to compare specs on the two and know what im talking about lol.....

i hope any of that helped..... damnit cheeb you beat me to all my points and info like i copied you and reworded it...lol i need to type faster

 

[TriWingGirl]

Very cool you got the idea but calm down

Using a portable AC unit has it issues, they use 1250 watts and up it will run constantly, the vent hose produces heat. They take up space in your room you could otherwise be using. it is hard to direct the air because of limited vent hose. Vent hoses are always 3-4 feet long, which makes placing it very hard, and usually inconvenient.

Venting the air from outside to outside works in cooler climates but will stop working when the temp outside goes over 90 or so. Venting from the inside to the outside will make your house AC run more.

You need a sealed room during flowering so don't forget to use green lights in every light socket anywhere, everywhere near that door in case of light leaks. Green light leaking in won't harm your plants.

Please feel free to look up my thread on my cooling system. I highly recommend using a ice cube cooling system. Get the biggest chiller you can afford, at least 1 HP. Using more than one ice cube cooler is a good idea to. it cost less to run the chiller and 2 pumps than it costs to run AC of any kind.

I have found dehumidifiers also produce lots of heat thats how they work, i have never used one, although i also bought one at first. If you use a portable indoor AC unit it will dehumidify the room and you don't need a separate dehumidifier at all. If you use a cooling system and run your air filter, blower, light, cooler, your cooling system will dehumidify your room and again don't need a separate one.

 

[Phillthy]

i like your style 40

running a sealed room myself and will say the ac unit is awesome. you will be fine up to 6000+ watts.

i can save ya some dough on the others choices like this...
- power box is way over kill. they make a 6 or 8 outlet one that is more than you'll need.
- dehuey is nice but an lg 65 pint will work very well with hose drain out the room.
- youll only need a 2 burner unit in that size room sealed. my room is 8 x 16 x 8 and mine only runs for a minute every once and a while. sentinel 2 burner gen with cppm controler. you can find them both for less than $700 online. propane tank last months.

youll want to have a dedicated 30 amp 240 breaker for the ac. you can power the 4 1ks off of a single 30 amp 240 breaker. will only every draw 20 amps.

no need to air cool hoods. i keep my ballasts in the room as well. i have 3200-3800 watts with a 1 ton and it is probably maxed out. i will be upgrading to a 2 ton with the addition of my 2 new lights.

keep me posted on your progress man. good things to come!

 

[PoopyTeaBags]

Very cool you got the idea but calm down

Using a portable AC unit has it issues, they use 1250 watts and up it will run constantly, the vent hose produces heat. They take up space in your room you could otherwise be using. it is hard to direct the air because of limited vent hose. Vent hoses are always 3-4 feet long, which makes placing it very hard, and usually inconvenient.

Venting the air from outside to outside works in cooler climates but will stop working when the temp outside goes over 90 or so. Venting from the inside to the outside will make your house AC run more.

You need a sealed room during flowering so don't forget to use green lights in every light socket anywhere, everywhere near that door in case of light leaks. Green light leaking in won't harm your plants.

Please feel free to look up my thread on my cooling system. I highly recommend using a ice cube cooling system. Get the biggest chiller you can afford, at least 1 HP. Using more than one ice cube cooler is a good idea to. it cost less to run the chiller and 2 pumps than it costs to run AC of any kind.

correct me if i miss read but i dont see anyone talking about a portable a/c.... and i do believe what you have is a heat exchanger correct???

 

[PuReKnOwLeDgE]

I think she missed "Wall Air Conditioner" which to me means mini split.

You got the three P's here to help you out 40! Poopy Philthy and Pk! Not bad for first responders I agree with cheeb, mr.slim + sante fe = pro

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I think she missed "Wall Air Conditioner" which to me means mini split.

You got the three P's here to help you out 40! Poopy Philthy and Pk! Not bad for first responders I agree with cheeb, mr.slim + sante fe = pro

Wow, lol! Thank you everyone for quick help!

Definitely going mini-split. I found some very nice portable ac's I considered on greners.com but all the hvac people and threads I looked up say mr. slim is the best damn unit with so few breakdowns. Costly but worth it and does a great job. It will definitely suit my purposes better than a portable.

I am looking into santa fe and some of the other suggestions right now I am glad everyone is saying things are too expensive or not needed heh. I was completely lost on controllers. I just want the dehu and co2 to keep levels absolutely perfect without me doing any guess work. It is my understanding that a controller is just to keep all the levels right all the time.

I want as little of me having to do work as possible in short...I want to focus on the buds, breeding, plants, and not the equipment. I also want all the necessary equipment as well as the correct equipment, because I will admit I am in uncharted territory. Doing research thanks so much for everyone's replies.

Also, any safety equipment or accessories that would be good safety or growing in sealed rooms let me know...

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I like the idea of this:

High Temperature Watchdog - IGS-012

http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=AACIGS012&eq=&Tp=

EDIT:

The reason I love to use the MDT-1 is the high temp shut down and loss of power protection. Peace of mind

Ahh I see some controllers have it already reread your sentinel mdt-1 post.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

That light controller will do the trick, but way more/expensive then you need to just run 4000w @ 240v.

50a is typically a stove plug so just make sure you dont have a typical 30a dryer outlet installed.

Golden info thanks! I got a lot of good info from this whole post.

One of the reasons I have picked slightly bigger equipment is because I know someday there is a chance of expansion so it is better to buy once. I don't want to expand but you never know /shrug. Might like breeding or something.

 

[PuReKnOwLeDgE]

Well if you use the MDT-1 timer it also has the high temp shut off, it will also turn your lights back on. The MDT-1 has the false start shit from power outages when you are out of town or absent, another level of protection. If your light board runs off a trigger cord like most, no sense in not using the MDT-1. The MDT-1 will also control heat during lights off, and has two more sockets for controling cycle pumps which is nice if you ever go ebb and flo but otherwise they are not needed. It also keeps time during outages with no addtion of batterys.

I am a big fan of the MDT-1 as a timer

 

[dunkydunk]

As for the Mr. Slim install, I've done two of them by myself, and they are more of an electrical install than an Hvac problem. It will need a dedicated breaker, and heavy gauge wire run from the breaker box to a remote lockout near the outdoor unit. Another heavy gauge wire is run from the outdoor unit to the inside unit. The hookups to the indoor unit are difficult to get to, and not made any easier by the solid 4-wires needed. The Mr. Slim is designed this way so the wires would be hidden if you were to install the unit in the living room, etc., where Mitsubishi intended for the thing to be placed. Sorry I can't remember the technical specs off hand, but the electrician will be there two or three times longer than the Hvac guy. Have the electrical done first, so it's ready for a test run when the Hvac guy does his magic.

As for the dehumidifier, I'd recommend a Frigidaire 50-70 pint unit you can source locally. With the higher temps run in a sealed with CO2, you'll have to have one. The AC will pull out water when it's running, but not enough, and you'll get high humidity spikes when lights are out and the AC doesn't run constantly. For the sake of simplicity, the dehuey will need a dedicated drain. Since the drain is near the floor, it isn't always easy to locate the drain. This is where a condensate pump comes in handy. You can pump the waste water up over a wall and out of the room, or combine it with the drain from the AC.

I have two Sentinel 2 burners CO2 generators and the cppm-4 controllers, they work flawlessly, and in a well sealed room, they hardly run at all, with a standard 20 gallon propane lasting an entire grow and then some.

Your pug and play light controller looks like a good investment, but I wouldn't waste any money on a whole room controller, as everything has it's own controller built in. The dehuey has a humidistat, the AC has thermostat, the CO2 burner has a ppm sensor and a light sensor, and they'll all run in concert on their own.

One more thing, I just revamped my rooms, and when I tore down the panda film, there was mold on the walls behind the plastic down near the floor. So I'm an advocate of flat white paint now.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Ok I am very confident now after reading everyone's advice and reading through the pdf owner manuals of the equipment I am considering

What do I do about all the lights on these things though? Like the lcd displays etc all emit light. Do you guys build enclosed boxes or something? Dehumidifier has lights on it, the controller has lights, et cetera...

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Another question I did not think of:

Since I am having a 30 and 50 amp plug installed are there any sort of inspection required or anything of that nature? I am guessing no, but this is new ground for me so if I can think of a possible problem I will ask When they installed a new AC at my current residence a city worker had to come by a few days later and inspect it/look at it for 2 seconds and leave.

By the way I am going to go with the Ideal-air dehumidifier and give a review of it (the 100 pint version). It is half the cost of most of them and I found out it is manufactured by Sunlight Supply. I have absolutely loved every single product I have purchased from them so I will give it a whirl and let everyone know.

 

[PoopyTeaBags]

Ok I am very confident now after reading everyone's advice and reading through the pdf owner manuals of the equipment I am considering

What do I do about all the lights on these things though? Like the lcd displays etc all emit light. Do you guys build enclosed boxes or something? Dehumidifier has lights on it, the controller has lights, et cetera...

I consider it "moon" light -=P dont hurt shit...


and i never heard of inspections.. its not like your taking out a permit to build something....

 

[the_extremist]

Licensed sparky here.

I'm not sure where you're at bro, but up here in the land of WA any kind of added/altered circuits require inspection. The only electrical work that doesn't is what is considered an "in-like" installation; i.e. swapping out receptacles or light fixtures. Basically, if you run a wire, you gotta have an inspection.

 

[dunkydunk]

I consider it "moon" light -=P dont hurt shit...


and i never heard of inspections.. its not like your taking out a permit to build something....

I agree, and most of my readouts are green anyway.

Permits? Let the next owner worry about it.

 

[the_extremist]

Depends on whether you own your home. If there's a fire and no inspection you're insurance won't pay.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Ok what I expected thanks a lot