no resin pump out occurred, thats just silly.
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C
Chamba
no resin pump out occurred, thats just silly.
Verite is currently frantically searchingonline for a photo of a pump with the word resin on it
Verite is currently frantically searchingonline for a photo of a pump with the word resin on it
Resin Pump
Resin Pump
Chamba...I'm a little like Verite...with that idea in mind I present the real McCoy...DD
Resin Pump
Chamba...I'm a little like Verite...with that idea in mind I present the real McCoy...DD
C
Chamba
here's how Sam most probably makes his legendary 1% yield hash...
from what I've gathered, been told (thanks anon!), read between the lines and worked out for myself I reckon Sam uses an exceptional clone that is grown, harvested, dried then the whole plant is cured & aged expertly under ideal conditions. After 6+ months he then isolates resin heads within a narrow size range using ancient hash making techniques & modern equipment.
Sam uses, probably a series of 3 ~ 5 mesh screens, to isolate what he has worked out to be his ideal range of resin heads that gives the best high....probably with the help of some type of electric sifter or vibrating base plate with a mechanical stirrer or screeder..and maybe a vaccuum for the last stage.
stage 1 : to help separate the resin heads from the plant matter, Sam probably uses a 135 ~ 125 micron mesh then a 110 ~ 120 micron mesh or maybe just runs it lightly over one mesh eg 115 or 120 micron mesh...for about 20 or 30 seconds with a small amount at a time...
and because the yield is so tiny (just a miniscule 1% of the plant's resin) he isolates only the resin heads that are collected within a very narrow diameter range.
an ideal range for yourself for that particular strain you are using might be all the resin from 75 ~ 100 micron or within a very tight 80 ~ 95 micron range or in Sam's case, an even narrower range.
stage 2 : sift the loose resin and broken up plant matter you sifted from stage 1 over two finer screen frames, e.g. between 80 and 95 micron, that are placed on top of each other to catch your ideal range of resin heads.
The resin heads and contaminants of the starting material that are smaller in size than 95 micron will pass through the top screen, then resin heads and contaminants larger than 80 micron will be caught between the two meshes. ..resin heads and veg matter smaller than 80 micron passes through both the stage two meshes.
stage 3 : now remove the upper screen frame and card or card & vibrate the resin on the eg 80 micron screen until all the broken plant matter, resin stalks and other non-active stuff has been forced through this mesh and only the desired resin heads within your ideal range remain on top of the eg 80 micron mesh.
this fine resin is then stored sealed in glass somewhere cool and dark (in the fridge?) for several more months or even years then smoked.
and of course, re-sift all the plant material again, this time with quantity in mind, to isolate all the remaining resin heads from the plant matter.
Happy hashing
from what I've gathered, been told (thanks anon!), read between the lines and worked out for myself I reckon Sam uses an exceptional clone that is grown, harvested, dried then the whole plant is cured & aged expertly under ideal conditions. After 6+ months he then isolates resin heads within a narrow size range using ancient hash making techniques & modern equipment.
Sam uses, probably a series of 3 ~ 5 mesh screens, to isolate what he has worked out to be his ideal range of resin heads that gives the best high....probably with the help of some type of electric sifter or vibrating base plate with a mechanical stirrer or screeder..and maybe a vaccuum for the last stage.
stage 1 : to help separate the resin heads from the plant matter, Sam probably uses a 135 ~ 125 micron mesh then a 110 ~ 120 micron mesh or maybe just runs it lightly over one mesh eg 115 or 120 micron mesh...for about 20 or 30 seconds with a small amount at a time...
and because the yield is so tiny (just a miniscule 1% of the plant's resin) he isolates only the resin heads that are collected within a very narrow diameter range.
an ideal range for yourself for that particular strain you are using might be all the resin from 75 ~ 100 micron or within a very tight 80 ~ 95 micron range or in Sam's case, an even narrower range.
stage 2 : sift the loose resin and broken up plant matter you sifted from stage 1 over two finer screen frames, e.g. between 80 and 95 micron, that are placed on top of each other to catch your ideal range of resin heads.
The resin heads and contaminants of the starting material that are smaller in size than 95 micron will pass through the top screen, then resin heads and contaminants larger than 80 micron will be caught between the two meshes. ..resin heads and veg matter smaller than 80 micron passes through both the stage two meshes.
stage 3 : now remove the upper screen frame and card or card & vibrate the resin on the eg 80 micron screen until all the broken plant matter, resin stalks and other non-active stuff has been forced through this mesh and only the desired resin heads within your ideal range remain on top of the eg 80 micron mesh.
this fine resin is then stored sealed in glass somewhere cool and dark (in the fridge?) for several more months or even years then smoked.
and of course, re-sift all the plant material again, this time with quantity in mind, to isolate all the remaining resin heads from the plant matter.
Happy hashing
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i've gotta think that the prime factor is having a large volume of weed that your tending to very carefully, without concern for volume of hash output, and emphasis on purity. if you have full buds (lots of popcorn would be even better, more external bud surface) that you treat carefully (as chamba always emphasises), you have the opportunity to catch the trichomes coming off the outer surfaces, without having to break the buds up to get more output. breaking the buds would automatically produce more platn material into the mix, simply because of the breaking/tearing.
the thing i can't get a handle on, is do you dry it thorougly, at which point the plant matter is very brittle and subject to breakage when even lightly handled (thus introducing plant material into the sift), or freeze when it's at a certain moisture content (probably less brittle than drying to a crisp, and the trichomes could be easily separated; but what happens as you apparatus warms up?), or sift them off of cured bud (possibly very low output)?
the role of heat during the drying/curing is a whole other issue, as well as curing the finished sift. i've gotta think that once it hits the freezer almost all chemical changes stop.
the thing i can't get a handle on, is do you dry it thorougly, at which point the plant matter is very brittle and subject to breakage when even lightly handled (thus introducing plant material into the sift), or freeze when it's at a certain moisture content (probably less brittle than drying to a crisp, and the trichomes could be easily separated; but what happens as you apparatus warms up?), or sift them off of cured bud (possibly very low output)?
the role of heat during the drying/curing is a whole other issue, as well as curing the finished sift. i've gotta think that once it hits the freezer almost all chemical changes stop.
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I read Chamba's post and started to think, and think, then smoke and thought some more and then I ended up reading through Clarke's Hashish.
I found a page picture (sorry scanner isn't working) that describes how to begin with you put the flowers on top of the screen and use a light vibration, I'm guessing similar to a automatic plud seeder uses, or an electric toothbrush.
Then the material is passed over the same screen and lighty vibrated each time and what is left on the screen is waste and the certain size heads then fall through and are gathered to be screened and vibrated once again. This is repeated over and over until the desired result is achieved.
The page number is 314 for anyone who has the book. The first pass gives one hundred percent select resin ( I'm sure this means what you have selected for in that pass) and then you run it again and you get ~80% select resin this time and ~20% light trash. The third pass gives ~65% select resin and ~15% light trash. The fourth pass is what they show in the book and it goes to ~55% select resin which the book states is nearly pure resin glands. The size of the sieve is 135-150 microns (u like symbol).
I think aside from this, Chamba had said the aged flowers are important, but the book describes that are harvest, the large and small leaves, with little to no resin heads should be removed to avoid dislodging of the glands on the flowers.
It also states that the plant material should be dry enough to sieve but not dry enough that it makes a powder when processed. Also it states that the heads must be fully mature as this will give a better product, and I assume to make them easier to detach (I'm thinking that like a leaf on a plant that is dying).
To keep it from warming up while working with it, the temperature is key, the book says that the temperature should be just above freezing, I believe that this is practiced in hash producing countries such as lebanon, afghanistan etc.
So as Chamba says, I agree. Although the book states about environment being a key factor as well, humidty, temperature, air pressure. So I think we know how to make it now, does anyone have enough, properly handled material that can be run? Also it sounds very labour and time intensive to do it properly, sifting through kilos of bud and sifting multiple times on each screen sounds like a lot of work to me, worth it though. I think it will take a lot of practice and expierementing to get it right, but even if it isn't quite a pure as Sam's, it should still kick you head like a mule.
Hope I didn't repeat Chamba too much or quote (or lack there of) the book too much.
Has anyone made dry sift like this before? Let's hear some results, maybe different environmental conditions, aging techniques, etc and see how it affects the process.
I found a page picture (sorry scanner isn't working) that describes how to begin with you put the flowers on top of the screen and use a light vibration, I'm guessing similar to a automatic plud seeder uses, or an electric toothbrush.
Then the material is passed over the same screen and lighty vibrated each time and what is left on the screen is waste and the certain size heads then fall through and are gathered to be screened and vibrated once again. This is repeated over and over until the desired result is achieved.
The page number is 314 for anyone who has the book. The first pass gives one hundred percent select resin ( I'm sure this means what you have selected for in that pass) and then you run it again and you get ~80% select resin this time and ~20% light trash. The third pass gives ~65% select resin and ~15% light trash. The fourth pass is what they show in the book and it goes to ~55% select resin which the book states is nearly pure resin glands. The size of the sieve is 135-150 microns (u like symbol).
I think aside from this, Chamba had said the aged flowers are important, but the book describes that are harvest, the large and small leaves, with little to no resin heads should be removed to avoid dislodging of the glands on the flowers.
It also states that the plant material should be dry enough to sieve but not dry enough that it makes a powder when processed. Also it states that the heads must be fully mature as this will give a better product, and I assume to make them easier to detach (I'm thinking that like a leaf on a plant that is dying).
To keep it from warming up while working with it, the temperature is key, the book says that the temperature should be just above freezing, I believe that this is practiced in hash producing countries such as lebanon, afghanistan etc.
So as Chamba says, I agree. Although the book states about environment being a key factor as well, humidty, temperature, air pressure. So I think we know how to make it now, does anyone have enough, properly handled material that can be run? Also it sounds very labour and time intensive to do it properly, sifting through kilos of bud and sifting multiple times on each screen sounds like a lot of work to me, worth it though. I think it will take a lot of practice and expierementing to get it right, but even if it isn't quite a pure as Sam's, it should still kick you head like a mule.
Hope I didn't repeat Chamba too much or quote (or lack there of) the book too much.
Has anyone made dry sift like this before? Let's hear some results, maybe different environmental conditions, aging techniques, etc and see how it affects the process.
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C
Chamba
I've never read "Hashish" by Clarke.
I must get myself a copy one of these days as I'd love to read it.
I must get myself a copy one of these days as I'd love to read it.
Hashmasta-Kut said:
Im very sorry that I dont always find the right words HK! Please understand that not all of us talk English as a native language and some times I come up with silly words like ^those^!
Im very sure you get the point what I meant, if not.. I meant increased resin production after harvest,while drying/curing which I have never witnessed before.
Doobie: I would love to have one of those
Thank you for your inforich reply Truthman, I do think you are absolut right!
Cway: Thank you for the kind words.. I cannot remember exact number of days this took, but I could try to search it among my older post´s!!! However, I do think we are talking about 4 days/nights maximum...
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C
Chamba
Limeygreen I read Chamba's post
I just re-edited that post..........hope it makes a little better sense now
I usually tap out a post then go back to it 10 minutes or 3 days later and re-write it to try to make it read better (or least, as best as I can)...fix a spelling here, redo a type there, sometimes I cut off heaps or add lots on...often I go back several times to get it "right"
I just re-edited that post..........hope it makes a little better sense now
I usually tap out a post then go back to it 10 minutes or 3 days later and re-write it to try to make it read better (or least, as best as I can)...fix a spelling here, redo a type there, sometimes I cut off heaps or add lots on...often I go back several times to get it "right"
Herbalistic said:Im very sorry that I dont always find the right words HK! Please understand that not all of us talk English as a native language and some times I come up with silly words like ^those^!
Im very sure you get the point what I meant, if not.. I meant increased resin production after harvest,while drying/curing which I have never witnessed before.
Doobie: I would love to have one of those
Thank you for your inforich reply Truthman, I do think you are absolut right!
Cway: Thank you for the kind words.. I cannot remember exact number of days this took, but I could try to search it among my older post´s!!! However, I do think we are talking about 4 days/nights maximum...
no i did get the point, and dont believe it. what you meant, i dont believe happened. once its dead, all major activity ceases pretty much.
Full Melt Bob
Member
When is a plant dead...?
Hashmasta-Kut said:
Ok, thanks for clarifying HK!
I just reported what I did see with my own eye´s.. Like I said, I used almost entire NH plant to that experiment! I should take pics of those nuggets that werent "sweatdryed/cured", so you could see what I mean. The erb I wrapped really had more resin in it than the not wrapped one + these were all clear new trichomes..
Dont know what to say more.. I dont have any reason to lie in these forums and I always try to report honestly of my experiences. Like I said.. I dont have any reason to claim it happened if it isnt true!
I can understand your point about the plant being dead.. However, you can take cutting and that doesnt kill the selected branch, but it roots if given rootingmedium, or water etc.. Something like this is what I believe happened! I dont think those trichs came there after the erb started to be dry, no!!! I do believe it happened during the first couple days.
Really HK, I dont have any reason to claim something that isnt true! I think that doesnt help us in any way. I dont claim I invented it etc something... I just did an experiment and shared the results of it, honestly
Sorry for the offtopic Chamba, im going to stop it after this post! Im glad you have researched SamS post´s + other info available and made your own conclusions -> I think you at right track
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C
Chamba
Sorry for the offtopic Chamba, im going to stop it after this post!
I'm not an on-topic Nazi like some..there's nothing wrong with going off on a tangent, that's what stoners do, right?
I say write whatever comes to mind!....readers can choose to read it or not
I'd much rather read something interesting off on a tangent than another useless two line post by some juvenile sychophant wanker
I also tried doing things differently...now when harvesting, I usually hang for a day or so, soak the material in water for a few hours, re-hang until almost dry and then cure it by opening and closing a container
I also wrapped up some sativa bud when almost fully dry into Thai stick style then covered with dry corn cob leaves and tied again.....that was good, but not great for rolling jays as the bud becomes very hard and dense
I'm not an on-topic Nazi like some..there's nothing wrong with going off on a tangent, that's what stoners do, right?
I say write whatever comes to mind!....readers can choose to read it or not
I'd much rather read something interesting off on a tangent than another useless two line post by some juvenile sychophant wanker
I also tried doing things differently...now when harvesting, I usually hang for a day or so, soak the material in water for a few hours, re-hang until almost dry and then cure it by opening and closing a container
I also wrapped up some sativa bud when almost fully dry into Thai stick style then covered with dry corn cob leaves and tied again.....that was good, but not great for rolling jays as the bud becomes very hard and dense
T
Truthman
I think he might be telling the truth because being that he used a method that relied on far infrared waves and the plant was fresh, the infrared waves was able to go deep into the plant and stimulate production of trichomes by breaking down excess sugars and getting the process going to make more trichomes and when there wasn't enough moisture and nutrients, that's when the process stops.
This is why an infrared sauna is shown to aid in detoxifying the body the best out of all heat methods as well as stimulating metabolsim which is because is can penetrate deep inside cells.
Remember the plant is still alive even when the roots aren't attached to it so this process is basically speeding up the breakdown of chemicals while produce some more but eventually it stops due to nutrients not being available and also moisture not being there.
This is better than curing in a jar with no infrared waves for months and just relying on drying. Peace.
This is why an infrared sauna is shown to aid in detoxifying the body the best out of all heat methods as well as stimulating metabolsim which is because is can penetrate deep inside cells.
Remember the plant is still alive even when the roots aren't attached to it so this process is basically speeding up the breakdown of chemicals while produce some more but eventually it stops due to nutrients not being available and also moisture not being there.
This is better than curing in a jar with no infrared waves for months and just relying on drying. Peace.
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Chamba: OK, I also do think we should share usefull information here and constantly try to give ideas for others, as ourselves of course!
Your cob experiment sounds very interesting! What you mean by soaking the material in water? You soak your plants/buds in water and then you dry them
Doesnt this loose all the trichomes into water 
If not, I would say it´s very interesting, because it can quarantee you with fresh, clean erb with no dust etc.. on it
I think we all should experiment with different techniques regarding growing & harvesting/drying/curing!
IMHO -> We should pay greater notice on traditional harvesting-/drying-/curingmethods that indigenous people have practised for centurys
What I would love to see is a cob experiment like you did, but I would love to see the result of this cob after buried in the ground for months!!! This should offer very nice curing and changed flavors/odors and even effects!!!
IMO -> What is needed is a grower with tropical climate and enought erb to release 10-20 grams for this experiment. You would be perfect candinate Chamba, because of your geographical location + the fact you have made succesfull cob before :wink: I strongly believe that the extraordinary potency of strains like famed Black Magic African for example were mainly produced by harvesting methods + with months of curing under soil, including expectionally potent erb of course
I think different harvesting & curing methods are very interesting subject when talking about increasing/changing the psychoactivity of your erb! Just think about traditional hashmaking countries like Pakistan & Afghanistan, they will give huge time for their erb to dry before even starting to segregate trichomes. After the segragating, they collect the resins and let them dry more, before pressing them into chunk, or collecting them into bag. After this the highest grade hash, or gardah (like they call it) is wrapped in coat skin and buried under the ground for months, even years brothers Now <- this is when it gets interesting for me -> the curing!!!!!
Thanks Truthman for coming with reasonable explanation I know what I did see & witness, but I cannot explain it scientifically by myself, because I dont have such infobank at my mind 
Anyways, thank for your opinion and much 
for your great wisdom!!!!
I really dont have any reason to lie in these forums, what would I accomplish by doing that?
Your cob experiment sounds very interesting! What you mean by soaking the material in water? You soak your plants/buds in water and then you dry them
Doesnt this loose all the trichomes into water If not, I would say it´s very interesting, because it can quarantee you with fresh, clean erb with no dust etc.. on it I think we all should experiment with different techniques regarding growing & harvesting/drying/curing!
IMHO -> We should pay greater notice on traditional harvesting-/drying-/curingmethods that indigenous people have practised for centurys
What I would love to see is a cob experiment like you did, but I would love to see the result of this cob after buried in the ground for months!!! This should offer very nice curing and changed flavors/odors and even effects!!!
IMO -> What is needed is a grower with tropical climate and enought erb to release 10-20 grams for this experiment. You would be perfect candinate Chamba, because of your geographical location + the fact you have made succesfull cob before :wink: I strongly believe that the extraordinary potency of strains like famed Black Magic African for example were mainly produced by harvesting methods + with months of curing under soil, including expectionally potent erb of course
I think different harvesting & curing methods are very interesting subject when talking about increasing/changing the psychoactivity of your erb! Just think about traditional hashmaking countries like Pakistan & Afghanistan, they will give huge time for their erb to dry before even starting to segregate trichomes. After the segragating, they collect the resins and let them dry more, before pressing them into chunk, or collecting them into bag. After this the highest grade hash, or gardah (like they call it) is wrapped in coat skin and buried under the ground for months, even years brothers
Now <- this is when it gets interesting for me -> the curing!!!!!Thanks Truthman for coming with reasonable explanation
I know what I did see & witness, but I cannot explain it scientifically by myself, because I dont have such infobank at my mind Anyways, thank for your opinion and much for your great wisdom!!!!I really dont have any reason to lie in these forums, what would I accomplish by doing that?
C
Chamba
What you mean by soaking the material in water?
soaking bud for days takes away something..but soaking the branches in room temp water for an hour about two or three days after hang drying seems to make it taste better for me....only agitating the branches in freezing water will make the trichomes drop off..but so will aggresive agitating in tepid water..always treat your buds, whether on the living plant or during the drying/curing process with "kid gloves" aka carefully
and btw..bud that has been soaked for an hour or so (and flicked to loose the drips in a long slow arcs) dries a day or so faster than unsoaked bud, even though it has been re-wet........
(edit : soaking after harvest or during drying is really for smoking buds, not for hash making...and well grown plants don't need soaking in water, but if you are forced to harvest soon after fertilizing then soaking the plant will help reduce the harshness)
soaking bud for days takes away something..but soaking the branches in room temp water for an hour about two or three days after hang drying seems to make it taste better for me....only agitating the branches in freezing water will make the trichomes drop off..but so will aggresive agitating in tepid water..always treat your buds, whether on the living plant or during the drying/curing process with "kid gloves" aka carefully
and btw..bud that has been soaked for an hour or so (and flicked to loose the drips in a long slow arcs) dries a day or so faster than unsoaked bud, even though it has been re-wet........
(edit : soaking after harvest or during drying is really for smoking buds, not for hash making...and well grown plants don't need soaking in water, but if you are forced to harvest soon after fertilizing then soaking the plant will help reduce the harshness)
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C
Chamba
What I would love to see is a cob experiment like you did, but I would love to see the result of this cob after buried in the ground for months!!! This should offer very nice curing and changed flavors/odors and even effects!!!
do it yourself....playing around with different methods is fun and educational..especially when you have plenty to play with
no need to bury in the ground.....place the cob bound buds in a glass jar and store them in a cool dry place and air it when needed
as far as effects go, it doesn't seem to change the high that much, maybe a little "deeper" and less cerebrally higher, due to the many of the trichomes being ruptured and squashed, but the change is only by a little..but without side by side comparisons, it's just theory
do it yourself....playing around with different methods is fun and educational..especially when you have plenty to play with
no need to bury in the ground.....place the cob bound buds in a glass jar and store them in a cool dry place and air it when needed
as far as effects go, it doesn't seem to change the high that much, maybe a little "deeper" and less cerebrally higher, due to the many of the trichomes being ruptured and squashed, but the change is only by a little..but without side by side comparisons, it's just theory
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Chiefsmokingbud said:
the THC will decompose, how much dont know - but if you make marok style sry sift and want the marok taste it is important that ethier the plant when harvest is fully mature and dying. Where we grow the plants are harvested green, so we need to get rid off that color, to get that nice golden gray color that marok is known fore.
In marokko they dry the plants on aluminium roofs before they put the plants in a dark- cool place fore storage
What i would really like to know is how they make this new paki marok - i dont think it is only the strain that makes a diffent taste - maby another drying tech combined with a strain from the himalaya range -
Keep on Skanking - Keep on Hashing
Herbalistic said:
i wouldnt accuse you of lying, you seem too nice for that. maybe just too stoned though. i would go so far as to say, you may have observed something inaccurately and reported what you believed to be true. no crime, and not lying.
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