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Rosseting leaves... Help

Rjstoner

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when you switch to HID from t-5s i like to start my light super high and work it down through out the day but ive seen my do this from being to rootbound also and from cold after that im at a loss
 

joe fresh

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just to clarify seamaidens post above:


hydrated lime: raises PH and is extremely fast acting and can be easily over done, has lots of calcium but not much magnesium

dolomitic lime: raises PH but is slower working, has balanced cal/mg, and is great ph buffer and will work long term


dolomitic lime is always preferred over hydrated lime IMO/IME.....it is also sometimes called agricultural lime, or garden lime
 

joe fresh

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Joe. What nutes to u use.. Strength schedule ect? and what style do u grow? What kind of yields do u achieve?


well depending on the strain, i feed every second watering(feed water feed) at 550 ppm (1.1 EC) for most strains but can go up to 700ppm (1.4 EC) and even 900ppm(1.8 EC) for really heavy feeding strains.

i mix compost and castings into my mix so that has added nutes so i dont have to go so high. if i used promix only then i would be feeding at 800-1000ppm per week(feed water water feed)



forgot...i use house&garden soil
 
S

SeaMaiden

just to clarify seamaidens post above:


hydrated lime: raises PH and is extremely fast acting and can be easily over done, has lots of calcium but not much magnesium

dolomitic lime: raises PH but is slower working, has balanced cal/mg, and is great ph buffer and will work long term


dolomitic lime is always preferred over hydrated lime IMO/IME.....it is also sometimes called agricultural lime, or garden lime
Thank you Mr. Fresh! I have to further qualify, I have only ever worked with dolomite/dolomitic lime, never hydrated lime. I know there's a lime that drives down pH, or at least I *think* there's a lime that drives down pH, but I've never used it.

I used to use crushed dolomite lime as a substrate for my African cichlid and marine fish-only tanks, preferring it over crushed coral generally. It's used in these types of systems to keep water pH driven up into the low 8 range, to provide further alkalinity (resistance to pH shift) to the water column and in the case of systems where hermatypic (reef-building) invertebrates are being kept, provides some of the necessary building blocks for them to make their skeletons.
 

joe fresh

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Thank you Mr. Fresh! I have to further qualify, I have only ever worked with dolomite/dolomitic lime, never hydrated lime. I know there's a lime that drives down pH, or at least I *think* there's a lime that drives down pH, but I've never used it.

I used to use crushed dolomite lime as a substrate for my African cichlid and marine fish-only tanks, preferring it over crushed coral generally. It's used in these types of systems to keep water pH driven up into the low 8 range, to provide further alkalinity (resistance to pH shift) to the water column and in the case of systems where hermatypic (reef-building) invertebrates are being kept, provides some of the necessary building blocks for them to make their skeletons.


ah a fish keeper...salt water at that....nice


ive always said that is you can keep a salt water tank with plants and fish in it alive, then you are ready to be a great hydro grower, lol

imo same concept, but harder to keep saltwater tanks alive than growing weed imo
 
S

SeaMaiden

I used to be a fish keeper. Then I had to take a job in the (aquatic ornamentals/exotics) trade to pay for my habit. And what a habit it was! Eliminated all desire to keep my hands wet in my own tanks once I took that line of work. Hard work, long hours, but I wouldn't trade it for the world and miss being able to continue that line or working at a public aquarium.

Believe it or not, marine systems, including mini-reef, have not proved the most difficult for me. There are some extremely delicate freshies out there whose habitats are difficult to recreate.
 

OSBC

Member
Thanks Joe and sea maiden.. Most all the plants have perked up abit.. An sea maiden the pic on the right is a sour d in a Hempy bucket gets feed every day and a plain water once a week I try to give that one a little lower ph than the soil ones.. The other two pics of the droopy plant are super skunk.. That's the only plant I potted quite deep in the pot cuz it was taller than the rest.. So I'm thinkin it was still dry down in the pot around the roots cuz I gave them all very little water.. The roots are srpeadind out in the pot now so tomorrow I'm Gona give her a good health water and see if she stands up for me!

Another Q.. Don't have pics tho..plants totally healthy then Growth started to lighten lil pale then progressed lighter green to straight up white growth on all the shoots.. As they keep growing out out it leaves that were white turn variegated .. My guess is iron def..? Gh nutes are 7.5g 5 m 2.5b @ 6.0 to 6.2 ph they had 3 feeds in a month two waters in between...
 
S

SeaMaiden

Iron deficiency in cannabis has been very rare in my experience. Camellia and rhododendron it's very common, but not so with cannabis. However, a small dose of iron supplement will tell you rather quickly whether or not it's the culprit.

IME, when you see very pale new shoots in cannabis it's simply an issue of moving nitrogen from where it's stored lower down in the plant to the new shoots. After a few days they're usually nice and green.
 

TicalionStalion

Active member
you have to adjust your PH after you mix the nutes bro...maybe the nutes are raising or lowering your PH. sorry if someone said this alrdy, I didnt get thru all of it before I replied.
 

Avinash.miles

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overwatering: leaves droop, leaf stems stay rigid
underwatering: leaves and leaf stems droop
 
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