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res temps 80+, how to avoid root rot?

superpedro

Member
Veteran
I deal with high temp's by using a biofilter. It's simply a large-surface material placed in aerated water.
The bacteria break down matter by making (FREE :D) enzymes.
The system doesn't suffer from NH4 buildups like by use of enzymes alone, since the bacteria converts NH4 to NO3.

I don't clean it, don't change a lot of water and it runs perfectly even when it gets really hot. It works with any kind of fertilizer you use, but stay away from h2o2 ;)
biofi.jpg


f1a.jpg


Highly recommended :)
I've got a small grow journal running in the microforum. ;)
 
G

greenmatter

I deal with high temp's by using a biofilter. It's simply a large-surface material placed in aerated water.
The bacteria break down matter by making (FREE :D) enzymes.
The system doesn't suffer from NH4 buildups like by use of enzymes alone, since the bacteria converts NH4 to NO3.

I don't clean it, don't change a lot of water and it runs perfectly even when it gets really hot. It works with any kind of fertilizer you use, but stay away from h2o2 ;)
biofi.jpg


f1a.jpg


Highly recommended :)
I've got a small grow journal running in the microforum. ;)



please show us more. looks like a great set up!
 
First off i wouldnt use bleech around anything that would be touching water as it leaves a residue.Not to mention theres several other products better than bleech out there that do the same thing without all the negatives that bleech has
.
Second off if your dealing with root rot and not brown algae(many ppl confuse the two) hygrozyme is a great product. With brown algae hygrozyme causes it to explode however with root rot you want to break down the dead matter and you also want to stimulate root growth.

Aquashield(used to be named hydroguard) is primarily 2-3 strains of bacillus and would help stimulate root growth. There was 3 strains that was also in voodoo juice but i can only confirm 2 now. Really any product for root stimulating would be great to push out new roots.

Trichoderma fungus would also assist with root rot. It has the ability to suppress pythium. I prefer to only use this to combat it until its under control then i drain and refill a couple days later with bacillus or mycirrhiza.


I have been able to have large root masses the same size as my system with connected chiller and no root rot.

Other options are running a completly sterile system(primarily h202). It is an option, however i dont personally prefer it i would rather have the benefits of my beneficials.
 

Work2much

Member
Im near the equator my flood drain 300 ltr res are 26 c i bubble a little ozone through them no root rot crystal clear water .I dont have any fe precipitate .
Ive seen it precipitate under uv light but not ozone .A

Hi Anydo can you expand on your water ozonater usage a bit more please? I'm interested in purchasing one but I'm not finding many growers who use them.
 
O

Organic Cat

80F+ temps in DWC, want to avoid root rot.

That's kinda like asking how to jump out of an airplane without a parachute, and not die. One solution is to make sure the airplane is on the ground, and hasn't taken off yet.

For the root rot, one solution is to cut off all the roots. That will kill the plant, but you would avoid root rot.

Or, add this to experience and know better next time; get a chiller or don't mess with DWC without being prepared.

Bio-filters can only do so much... even BigToke, the man who claimed his BioBuckets could handle higher temperatures than vanilla DWC, eventually admitted that higher temperatures (past the low 70's, IIRC) were not recommended due to root rot.

(As a side note, I was very skeptical of him claiming to be the author on the "water chemistry" post/thread that had [in comparison] perfect spelling, grammar and illustrations, when 100% of his other posts were riddled with 6-year-old level writing skills full of errors and failure to differentiate to/too/two, your/you're, there/their/they're, etc...)
 

TBug

Plz forget you know me...Sugaree
Veteran
NOT a recommendation but, I've done it into the 90s with no trouble. Keep the res simple and clean, avoiding all organics and additives. I restricted mine to tap water, GH FloraMicro, FloraBloom and pH Down.
High freez! ive done that same thing in aeroponics..worked well when temps rose up!
Peace, bugout
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
80F+ temps in DWC, want to avoid root rot.

That's kinda like asking how to jump out of an airplane without a parachute, and not die. One solution is to make sure the airplane is on the ground, and hasn't taken off yet.

For the root rot, one solution is to cut off all the roots. That will kill the plant, but you would avoid root rot.

Or, add this to experience and know better next time; get a chiller or don't mess with DWC without being prepared.

Bio-filters can only do so much... even BigToke, the man who claimed his BioBuckets could handle higher temperatures than vanilla DWC, eventually admitted that higher temperatures (past the low 70's, IIRC) were not recommended due to root rot.

(As a side note, I was very skeptical of him claiming to be the author on the "water chemistry" post/thread that had [in comparison] perfect spelling, grammar and illustrations, when 100% of his other posts were riddled with 6-year-old level writing skills full of errors and failure to differentiate to/too/two, your/you're, there/their/they're, etc...)

You can use a bio filter with success a high temps. But it demands some precautions.
Make sure all water is aerated throughout the system. Since warmer water won't hold so much oxygen, "dead" spots can easily appear. The bacteria matter can die and even be the cause/starter of root rot.
Do not overfeed! You don't want the Ph to drop much further than the optimal 5,8 - We are already pushing the envelope with the nitrosomonas culture.

I've been running at 80+ for three months this summer, no problem. (Still running, and I have never cleaned the system)

I use measurements to monitor the uptake of nutrients, and the bacteria efficiency by getting a read of NH4 -> NO3 conversion.
It Works.

Link to my grow thread is in my sig.
 

imadoofus

Active member
Veteran
please allow me to offer this simple but extremely valid perspective on res temps.

how much oxygen do you assume is available to a plant growing in the dirt?
because yes, those roots draw oxygen and nutrients to be absorbed and transferred into energy by the bacteria on the roots- from underground.

now compare the D/O levels of oxygen in soil vs a rez with high temps. common sense, people. even with 90f+ temps, there is still more oxygen available than in any well aerated soil.

what causes issues isnt the oxygen levels, its ability of the pathogens to reproduce beyond the plants natural abilities to fight off infection.

there is billions of pathogens in a cup of soil. yet; the plant thrives.

the majority of what we assume we know is fucking flat out wrong.
 

imadoofus

Active member
Veteran
and for you organic buffs, an element is a element- regardless of where it came from.

on the periodic table, there is no special section for ''organic''.

fuck this stupid, arrogant ass imadoofus.

please let me stay ; )
 
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