Pot worms? Should I be worried

[Stoobeey]

So based on everything I've read and looking at these things under the scope they should be potworms, but there are tons and in all my soil. I'm reading that it's not necessarily a problem.

Definitely not fungus not I don't even have any flyers and haven't had any in a couple of years (lighter watering and Neem cake in my mix seemed to have solved that past problem). My sticky card is 3yrs old. Lol haven't even peeled the 2nd side covering off.

As you can see the plants are all fine (any leaf damage is most likely soil being a tad hot)

 

[iTarzan]

A very fitting name for them. Woodworms would have worked too.

 

[Stoobeey]

Of course my jack ass didn't research deep enough and ran out to get nematodes (more coming tomorrow too lol stupid move). Just crazy how many there are. I'm sending cuttings to a friend and didn't want to back em in fungus gnat soil.. phew I'll have to warn them or they'll trip out

But as you can see all the plants in good shape. I've had some burns from my soil being a tad hot maybe , but they grow out of that

 

[exploziv]

Potworms are a sign of too much humidity, acidity and having uncomposted matter in the soil. Just regular drying cycles between waterings should control them. But they could also be some kind of nematode, those can have wider living conditions.
BTW, if they are potworms they won't hurt the plants at all, but they sure are a sign conditions in the soil could be better.

 

[Stoobeey]

I've already been working on drying out my 2 bins (stirring up every couple of days). I do have things like dolomite lime , gypsum, azomite (I've yet to add oyster shell ) in my mixes.

My mix is buus compost/ewc, chunky perlite, sphagnum. I do run blumats (but not in all pots. Smaller 4" dotn always get em), but I work to make sure my plants stay someone light and close off the blumat till I reach that.

My bin outside was nuts for a bit bc I had bokashi compost buried in it but it definitely calmed down since a majority has fully decomposed. I just added some new sphagnum and perlite to compensate . I didn't re amend any of this since I buried that bokashi.

Thanks for information

 

[Stoobeey]

Potworms are a sign of too much humidity, acidity and having uncomposted matter in the soil. Just regular drying cycles between waterings should control them. But they could also be some kind of nematode, those can have wider living conditions.
BTW, if they are potworms they won't hurt the plants at all, but they sure are a sign conditions in the soil could be better.

Even though I never check ph . I mixed soil into water and did a few test. 5.3 right away. Climbed to 5.6 ish 30 mins later. This morning 5.8.

But seeing as potworms like acidic environment (I added wigglers a bit back to soil bins but they're all gone too, guessing too acidic) I figure I need to re lime . Did little pinches on all the solo cups and 4" pots.

Then did .5c per cuft in my 2 bins. See if that helps in next cpl weeks .
Do I need to consider also adding oyster flour too?

 

[exploziv]

Wrigglers can't live in soil, they can marginally tolerate ph 5+ but they only live in compost or mulch at the top of soil, and not in regular soil. They need decomposing organic matter to live. Many reasons to not like a pot/soil bin, as they are compost worms not earthworms.
If you added lime there is no need to add oyster flour too.

 

[Stoobeey]

Ahh all good . Figured I would try adding 1x no biggie. And thanks on not needing to add oyster too. Jist want it ensure I have complete range of amendment.

Alfalfa meal
Kelp meal
Neem seed meal
Crab meal
Kelp meal
Fish bone meal
Gypsum
Azomite
Dolomite
Green sand (only added to initial cook I read takes ages to break all down didn't think I needed to reamend)
Langbeinite (sparingly)
Humic acid (but I've been out and last round didn't get any reamend)
Bokashi grain

Anything else you think I should look to add (gypsum and azo were my 2 newest addition)

Appreciate advice.

Wrigglers can't live in soil, they can marginally tolerate ph 5+ but they only live in compost or mulch at the top of soil, and not in regular soil. They need decomposing organic matter to live. Many reasons to not like a pot/soil bin, as they are compost worms not earthworms.
If you added lime there is no need to add oyster flour too.

 

[St. Phatty]

Do you have enough Potworms to make a 1/4 pound Potworm-burger ?

Sounds funny now, but I expect in a 100 years people will be forced to eat all sorts of strange stuff.

 

[Bio boy]

Ahh all good . Figured I would try adding 1x no biggie. And thanks on not needing to add oyster too. Jist want it ensure I have complete range of amendment.

Alfalfa meal
Kelp meal
Neem seed meal
Crab meal
Kelp meal
Fish bone meal
Gypsum
Azomite
Dolomite
Green sand (only added to initial cook I read takes ages to break all down didn't think I needed to reamend)
Langbeinite (sparingly)
Humic acid (but I've been out and last round didn't get any reamend)
Bokashi grain

Anything else you think I should look to add (gypsum and azo were my 2 newest addition)

Appreciate advice.

Drop the dolomite if you check on here for kis podcast 106 you can see them and others here say the mg leads to soil collapsing use limestone and gypsum instead and foilar mg if it is needed as it makes the soil compact reducing oxygen and locking nut up

 

[Bio boy]

Do you have enough Potworms to make a 1/4 pound Potworm-burger ?

Sounds funny now, but I expect in a 100 years people will be forced to eat all sorts of strange stuff.

modern hunting is going to be potatoes on the soil and African fly patty burgers

 

[St. Phatty]

modern hunting is going to be potatoes on the soil and African fly patty burgers

The thing that bugs me about potatoes is the Harvest process.

Dig them up ? That's time-consuming.

I was going to plant them on a steep incline, in loose soil, and then use M80's to dislodge some of the soil so the potatoes can roll down the hill.

That's the theory anyway.

Potatoes are cheap - but only because diesel and gasoline are relatively cheap.

 

[Bio boy]

The thing that bugs me about potatoes is the Harvest process.

Dig them up ? That's time-consuming.

I was going to plant them on a steep incline, in loose soil, and then use M80's to dislodge some of the soil so the potatoes can roll down the hill.

That's the theory anyway.

Potatoes are cheap - but only because diesel and gasoline are relatively cheap.

Seen em grow hydro…nuts…. So can I just drop em in the ponds ?
i like the m80 approach could alsonoxygenate my pond

 

[St. Phatty]

Seen em grow hydro…nuts…. So can I just drop em in the ponds ?
i like the m80 approach could alsonoxygenate my pond

Loud noises can upset the neighbors.

Or even worse, inspire them to visit when you're in the middle of something interesting.

 

[Three Berries]

The thing that bugs me about potatoes is the Harvest process.

Dig them up ? That's time-consuming.

I was going to plant them on a steep incline, in loose soil, and then use M80's to dislodge some of the soil so the potatoes can roll down the hill.

That's the theory anyway.

Potatoes are cheap - but only because diesel and gasoline are relatively cheap.

Stack tires on top of each other and plant the taters in them. Easy to tear down

 

[exploziv]

Old, degrading tires leak chems and heavy metals over time. Take that into account.

 

[flylowgethigh]

Drop the dolomite if you check on here for kis podcast 106 you can see them and others here say the mg leads to soil collapsing use limestone and gypsum instead and foilar mg if it is needed as it makes the soil compact reducing oxygen and locking nut up

Mg is a basic element of chlorophyl.

 

[Three Berries]

Stack tires on top of each other and plant the taters in them. Easy to tear down

Or cut the end out of a trash can the size you want.

 

[Bio boy]

Mg is a basic element of chlorophyl.

Yes but not in soil foilar if needed it causes soma y problems it’s a massive misconception that dolo is used slownickle Talks about peeps who add it are setting up for failure and alot of other high vetted said also and when my soil collapsed my tests showed mg and Na high here’s a thread on it https://www.icmag.com/threads/advice-on-dolomite-lime.288354/


The main problem with dolomitic lime is that it contains too much magnesium… An additional drawback of dolomite limestone is that it is often contaminated with lead.”

here explains how the ratio is out https://www.smilinggardener.com/organic-soil-management/dolomite-lime/

Ya may not be a fan of tad but this guy he interviews is a friggin legend https://www.kisorganics.com/blogs/p...-cultivation-with-paul-cockson-patrick-veazie

slownicels quote
One of the biggest hurdles with any grower (including me for more than 20 years), is the testicular clamping and withdrawal when one starts talking about taking away the application of magnesium in the form of dolomite or magnesium sulfate. The only source that is recommended that will NOT contribute to structural collapse is sulpomag. Don't ask me why. Just try it.

The issue with magnesium is another one of those soil science curve balls. The more excess you have, the more you have deficiency in the leaves. This is due to the fact that the roots are dying from too much Mg and they really don't want to pick up any more. TWANG.... no air TWANG..... water logging... TWANG rots... all the problems in the world. And what do people do when these see those color photos of magnesium deficiency on their plants? It would be funny if it wasn't such a sad kick in the ass.

So that is Mg.

 

[Stoobeey]

Got my soil test back and well I have almost no P lol not sure how I pulled that off .

Then my sulfur is waaaaaaaaay too high. Anyway to reduce this ? pH is a bit over too big not by much (it suggest elemental sulfur, bit um I have a crap too if S .Won't this make it worse?)

N and k are just barely over it's suggested optimal ppm for cannabis. I figure all the ones barely over the mark will level out soon on their own.