Yes, I flower to make seeds under flouros all the time. It just takes longer for the seeds to mature and when you think they are ready let them go a little longer.
Pollen chucking, very basic questions
- Thread starter turnip brain
- Start date
Great thread. I had the same questions. I do have one to add. Say I had some landrace Columbian, loved it and wanted to make legit seed to preserve it, and have seeds to pop whenever. So the question is can it be inbreed year after year and not lose its quality. Does it require a full study of inbreeding plants or can an average Joe preserve a landrace for all the rite reasons?
By the way ive been reading in the forums for months the Mexican Landrace Thread was what drew me in here
By the way ive been reading in the forums for months the Mexican Landrace Thread was what drew me in here
S
strandloper
I think that it depends on how many seeds you start with. You need a large gene pool in order to avoid inbreeding.
No. They may mature a bit faster with more light intensity. However, have (in the old days) pollenated and kept plant under a 65w Grow Lamp. They still matured. Typically, seeds mature within 6-7 weeks. You cannot rush Mother Nature.
Thanks. So say I make seed, then would breeding within the made seed be inbreeding?
Your going to just have to read some of the breeding basics on this site to understand how phenotype stability works. If you use those seeds and breed them with a different strain then no. If you you those seeds and breed them with themselves then yes. It's not a bad thing though. It's how you stabilize phenotype expression and usually takes about 4 or 5 generations to get to the goal of 1:1. That means half the off spring will show the traits you want. Knowing when to stop is key.
If you just want some bad ass mom's it's best to use a fresh F1 and Crack a bunch of seeds. Takes clones and flower the seeds and pick your favorite. Then you use the clone you took off it as and mother. You can always self the one you like too to have a bunch of feminized seeds that will be almost identical to the mother.
If you just want some bad ass mom's it's best to use a fresh F1 and Crack a bunch of seeds. Takes clones and flower the seeds and pick your favorite. Then you use the clone you took off it as and mother. You can always self the one you like too to have a bunch of feminized seeds that will be almost identical to the mother.
WOW!!! I've never seen seeds take that long to mature.
4-5 weeks is my experience but I typically go for 6 weeks beyond pollenation because I want mature buds as well.
It appears you need to take your own advice and do some reading.
Your understanding is rather lackluster just going by your responses to the questions you aren't attempting to answer.
No advice is better than bad advice!
Just saying
You want to make seeds of a lanrace variety do ya?
Well... complete preservation of a landrace variety is best performed via open pollenation with ZERO outside influences. The more seed you start with the better so that you don't loose as much of the genetic code contained within the landrace variety...
Once you start doing 1:1 pollenations you loose the landrace status due to an extreme loss of genes within that line.
Oh yes...
INBREEDING IS THE ONLY WAY TO STABILIZE A PLANT... if that's the route you want to take.
Mjpassion- thanks for the insult friend. How about you try to make a proper arguement. Point, evidence, explain. Your vague opinion doesn't leave anything to debate except your ego.
I've read all the dj short articles, everything Tom and chimera has posted, as well as many books. I WAS PURPOSELY GIVING A BRIEF ANSWER. I can't compile hundreds of pages into one paragraph.
He asked if using the same seeds from the same genetics over and over in successive generations is inbreeding. The answer is clearly yes.
I left out the part about having atleast 20 females and 20 males and do open pollination to preserve the highest percentage of the genetic code so good call on that one cause it's important from a preservation standpoint.
If you carefully re-read the 1:1 bit that wasn't about pollenation it was about stability. I have read chimera and others discussing with BOG about not constantly back crossing and knowing when to stop. Those conversations were in regards to the brothers grim not having the original c99 and now only the c99 bx1 is commercially available for sale.
Hopefully you now see I am involved in the genetics world and know what I'm talking about.
P.S. the c99 bx1 Is flipping awesome imo and was my best producer last year. Flavor and smell was exquisite and all my medical patient friends loved it! Only strain that was frostier was the mikado, of which I kept 3 phenos out of 9 cause they were all soooo dank.
P.P.S. - I schedule 8 weeks from pollenation for my seeds because I can afford the time and I want every last seed I can get. Especially after dealing with CS and collecting pollen in my isolation boxes and manually pollenation and washing everything sperately, which is a lot of work, especially when doing up to 6 strains at a time!
I've read all the dj short articles, everything Tom and chimera has posted, as well as many books. I WAS PURPOSELY GIVING A BRIEF ANSWER. I can't compile hundreds of pages into one paragraph.
He asked if using the same seeds from the same genetics over and over in successive generations is inbreeding. The answer is clearly yes.
I left out the part about having atleast 20 females and 20 males and do open pollination to preserve the highest percentage of the genetic code so good call on that one cause it's important from a preservation standpoint.
If you carefully re-read the 1:1 bit that wasn't about pollenation it was about stability. I have read chimera and others discussing with BOG about not constantly back crossing and knowing when to stop. Those conversations were in regards to the brothers grim not having the original c99 and now only the c99 bx1 is commercially available for sale.
Hopefully you now see I am involved in the genetics world and know what I'm talking about.
P.S. the c99 bx1 Is flipping awesome imo and was my best producer last year. Flavor and smell was exquisite and all my medical patient friends loved it! Only strain that was frostier was the mikado, of which I kept 3 phenos out of 9 cause they were all soooo dank.
P.P.S. - I schedule 8 weeks from pollenation for my seeds because I can afford the time and I want every last seed I can get. Especially after dealing with CS and collecting pollen in my isolation boxes and manually pollenation and washing everything sperately, which is a lot of work, especially when doing up to 6 strains at a time!
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I find if you treat a male as you would a female, ie, put a lot of effort into feeding him and making him the best he can be, you will have a easier time selecting for breeding as you may find males with trichomes I've done this quite a few times and most of the time I can find one male that produces trichs, I always use them to pollinate one small area, make sure you do it in early flower, that way you pollinate less bud, as it's easy to pollinate to much, the stuff goes everywhere. Doing it early in flower also gives your seeds a longer time to develop and you end up with less pale duds. Just my 2 cents from what I've discovered over the years
Are you doing this inside out outdoor? There's lots of ways to keep the pollen contained either way. I've actually never found a stray bean inside. Outdoor I find a few every year but that happens even if I don't pollinate, everyone and their mum grows here, literally.
Bags is one trick. You can use cornstarch to cut your pollen up to 10:1. I usually just do 1:1. Pit pollen and starch in a turkey bag or appropriate size carefully into the bottom corner. Twist and hold that corner. Place bag over desired branch or plant and zip tie opening around branch or stalk tightly but not too tight. Gently sprinkle the corner in your hand onto the plant. You can lean bag down appropriate after wards and gently shake to recollect unused pollen and reapeat. Leave bag on over night. The next day get a little sprayer with a wand ready to go with regular water. Open the bag up just enough to get wand inside and blast everything in the bag, including the bag itself with water.
What I usually do is remove the plant one by one to another area, preferably enclosed with no drafts. Apply pollen with qtip, brush, or finger. Leave sit overnight and wash it down the next day before returning to the room. I've read some people repeating that process multiple times to get more beans. To really only need to let the pollen sit for about 5 minutes but I like to give it overnight.
I fortunately have a lot of out buildings and I use a different one for each strain or each type of pollen, if you are using the same pollen on multiple strains. I've done 7 at one time before, this technique worked great. But idk if everyone will have the the rooms and containment zones to do that.
What I usually do is remove the plant one by one to another area, preferably enclosed with no drafts. Apply pollen with qtip, brush, or finger. Leave sit overnight and wash it down the next day before returning to the room. I've read some people repeating that process multiple times to get more beans. To really only need to let the pollen sit for about 5 minutes but I like to give it overnight.
I fortunately have a lot of out buildings and I use a different one for each strain or each type of pollen, if you are using the same pollen on multiple strains. I've done 7 at one time before, this technique worked great. But idk if everyone will have the the rooms and containment zones to do that.
