What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

plug n play flip flop detailed DYI

00420

full time daddy
Veteran
Olyver said:
I am DB2004, Olyver is my dog's name.....lol. That unit from JC was built by me, not Einstein. I have internal pics of that loadcenter as well.

Best Regards

Olyver (aka DB2004)


again my bad on that i thought it was the flip flop EG made for JC thats why it was confusing me......... it's a load center not a flip
 

00420

full time daddy
Veteran
DEDHEDFRED said:
Is there a way ta make a relay that`ll do 3 ballasts and 6 lights........
yes

DEDHEDFRED said:
I do it the old school way with each light on a dedicated 20 amp circuit plugged into a timer and the settings are couple minutes apart on lights on and lights off ......minutes apart on lights on and lights off ......I use Lumatek and Lumenace ballasts and saw where Digi`s haveta turn off before turning back on
i like to turn the ballast off digi or not.... i have fryed contact points. this is one of the things that me and DB disagree on
a load center like bg just a smaller scale is what you need on top of a flip flop i also like to make my flops as 1 unit it's easy to wire when making and its easy when you start to wire them in your room

DEDHEDFRED said:
I`d liketa be able to build a box for each location that everything will disconnect from , move to a new location , and re-connect to if that`s possible......Lil help please......Electrical`s not my strong suit............Thanx again...........DHF.......... :joint: ..........

it can be done again it's easyer to make 3 flip flop units and a load center cost is about $10 more per unit as to making one for 4/8 ( or 3/6 in your case) but in my eye's well worth it when it come's to wiring

i have 3 ballast that the wire for the light is hard wired (no plug) and i built the flip flop to it so it's now just for flowering & now the hydrofarm hood plug right to it and i dont have to use 120v plug's or hrad wire to hood......
i like shit plug n play

im going to make a loadcenter/240timer thats why i have a post "saved for multi ballast timer dyi" :)
 
Last edited:

Olyver

Member
ballasts off and on before/after flip cycle

ballasts off and on before/after flip cycle

00420 said:
yes


i like to turn the ballast off digi or not.... i have fryed contact points. this is one of the things that me and DB disagree on


Not sure where you got the idea I disagree with you on this, I've never discussed it with. Quite the contrary, I've built several flip/loadcenter combos that turn the ballasts off and on prior/after the 12/12 cycle on the flip. As for frying contact points, I guarantee my flips for 5 years. I have a trick that makes the contact points last longer. The best way to link the ballasts powering off and on with the flip cycle, is to use a PLC (programmable logic controller). They are microprocessors with multi timing cycles and trigger inputs. You can get them with 4 to 40 outputs. With digital ballasts, it is imperative to shut the ballasts off prior to a flip cycle, then power the ballasts back on after. You might wanna drill some holes in your flips, they get very warm inside.


Olyver (aka DB2004)
 
J

JamesChong

Olyver (aka DB2004) Check your e-mail. Look for a address from golddustwomen.
Thanks,
BG
 

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
are the relays in that tiny plastic box going to melt the plastic???
i dont see vent holes, just that rubber seal.
 
Ok I have been reading on theses PLC's now tell me if i am wrong in theory you can use these from Ballast>PLC from there PLC>Relays and since the PLC's are programmable you can set them to turn the ballast off right before the relays are switched? basically every input and output on the PLC's serve a individual purpose making them each programmable am I right? Now my other question is how do these rate as far as voltage, amps etc (sorry I am not a electrician so i don't know the "proper" terms) can they handle the different voltage going through them 120v for relay switch 240 from ballast etc how does this all work?
 
Also essentially i could build a fully functioning environmental controller like those crazy expensive CAP ones just get a telaire co2 ventostat to hook to a PLC input to turn off/on whatever co2 device i am using through the output. Is the sky pretty much the limit i can acheive with these things?
 

green_tea

Member
Barn Growin' said:
Also essentially i could build a fully functioning environmental controller like those crazy expensive CAP ones just get a telaire co2 ventostat to hook to a PLC input to turn off/on whatever co2 device i am using through the output. Is the sky pretty much the limit i can acheive with these things?


Do you have a link to these things? and what is the cost were talking about for them?

I had previously looked at this chinese manufacturer for some mini co2 sensors that can read from 1ppm to like 4000ppm I believe, but they wanted 450 each.

Id rather just buy a cap monitor for that price, but at the same time, I am trying to get this all automated with my Phidget system.

Thanks!
 

imnotcrazy

There is ALWAYS meaning to my madness ®
Veteran
Fun with Nano PLCs

Fun with Nano PLCs

Just started a thread and will eventually get around to a bunch of D.I.Y. Nano P.L.C. Grow Room Automation projects. The thread can be found here:

Applications of Nano PLCs In the Grow Room

Actually working on an Expandable Digital Ballast Flip-Flop D.I.Y. Tutorial Using an Idec Smart Relay Model: FL1D-H12RCC (100-240Vac; 8 x Digital Input/4 x 10Amp Relay Output) COST: @ $150 U.S. Which will later be added to the above thread...
 
Last edited:

EuroToker

Member
so, i have a question, does the ballast get switched off before the relay clicks? or does the ignitor automatically know to ignite the bulb that it switched to?
 
what about these

Allen-bradley 156 solid state contactor
Overview
Solid State Contactors are designed for fast and demanding switching of loads such as heaters, solenoids, transformers and motors. Solid State Contactors are ideal replacement for electro-mechanical devices or mercury contactors. They can switch single- and dual- phase heaters up to 50 A, and three-phase heaters up to 20 A.

Features
The contactors are burst-fired for reduced EMC emission, have LED status indicators and accept universal control voltage ranges. The units are panel or DIN rail mountable, complete with heatsink, and require no additional components.

* Compact modular design complete with heatsink
* Panel or DIN rail mountable
* Easy and quick installation
* Specification according to industry standard
* Available in single-phase, dual-phase or three-phase version
* Operational current up to 50 A (AC-1), 15 A (AC-3)
* LED Status indication
* Line voltage up to 600V AC
* Universal control voltage
* Burst firing (zero cross)
* IP 20 protection
* Built-in varistor protection phase or three phase
* Approvals CE, cULus, CSA

Hot Tub Parts Cat # 60-241-1155

* Identical to:
o HOS602411155
o T-92 Relay DPDT
* 110VDC Coil

Description
Potter & Brumfield
T-92 series relays rated at 30A and are available in
various actions and coil voltages. Many manufacturers
are replacing large power relays with the space
saving T-92 relay. Dimensions are 2-3/4 in. x 1-1/2 in. x 1-3/8 in.

Price $ 49.89

could this be used as the timer and relay in one unit?

Intermatic T7801B Timer DPDT 40A 125V T-SW

Home > Intermatic timers > Intermatic T7801B Timer DPDT 40A 125V T-SW

These heavy-duty mechanical time switches are designed for industrial, commercial and residential applications. These time switches provide a different "ON/OFF" program each day of the week. They also provide for 4 pole single throw and 4 pole (2NO/2NC) switching. This series provides true 7-day load control with minimum ON and minimum OFF times of 3-1/2 hours. The "BC" models with carry-over provide a carry-over of 16 hours minimum to maintain accurate load control even during power failure. When power resumes, the carry-over automatically rewinds itself. Only 1 hour is required to rewind the carry-over for each 2 hours of outage. The carry-over models are ideal in applications where true 7-day control is required and where power outages occur entailing costly resetting.
 
I think i will try these

Description
Potter & Brumfield
T-92 series relays rated at 30A and are available in
various actions and coil voltages. Many manufacturers
are replacing large power relays with the space
saving T-92 relay. Dimensions are 2-3/4 in. x 1-1/2 in. x 1-3/8 in.

Price $ 49.89
it says they are replacing large power relays which the most common relay used for the flip is a large power relay i believe. the switching voltage is rated for 400/600

so this relay should be able to handle the 400 to 500v coming out of the ballast vs the 277v i want to say the most common relay used can handle. also helping to avoid arcing and burnt contacts
 
it shouldnt be a problem if people been using lesser rated v ones. i would like to see what the inside of this looks like? it seems like they might be on to something.
 

growshopfrank

Well-known member
Veteran
One thing to keep in mind is that hot starts are death to most flipflops. If you want the things to last I recommend adding a on delay relay inline with your light contactor trigger line, low cost hvac ones work fine for that.
 
can anybody tell me why these wouldnt be a good ideal to use?

Potter & Brumfield
T-92 series relays rated at 30A and are available in
various actions and coil voltages. Many manufacturers
are replacing large power relays with the space
saving T-92 relay. Dimensions are 2-3/4 in. x 1-1/2 in. x 1-3/8 in.

Price $ 49.89
it says they are replacing large power relays which the most common relay used for the flip is a large power relay i believe. the switching voltage is rated for 400/600
 

Stay Puft

Member
I have used that relay model before. Only I used it to switch the AC input (120/240V AC). Certainly not on the ballast output.
BTW- You can purchase the T92 series relays at Mouser.com for a LOT less than $50.00ea! (more like $15.00)
Regards,
Puft
 
its rated to switch 600v and they say manufactures are replacing the larger power relays like the one on the first page with these ones.
 
Top