Phylloxera information - aka root mites aka root aphids

[SickBoyZap]

See that's the problem with me giving you advice about doing this in your medium. I'm pretty rare, I ebb/flow and I only use Hydroton and Rapid rooter plugs NOTHING ELSE!

My friends are always pushing me to try different soil-less mediums but I've had too many problems with pathogens and pests, over watering , and PH problems. Not that my way is better, only better for me. I feel everything stays cleaner, PH is a breeze, my roots are easily exposed to receive max Oxygen & nutes from res. Almost impossible to overwater.

I'm not sure how you should apply. 'I' filled a 5gal bucket with RO. Added 5tsp Bayer "Tree & shrub, protect & feed", dropped my pond pump and drenched each pot in the 4x4 tray.

I came back about 4 hours later with another 5 gal bucket of pure RO. Rinsed it all into the res. I eb/flowed that coctail for two days. If you think about it. The subsequent aplications from the res. were dramatically diluted- from (1tsp/gal ) to (1tsp/8gal).

Nothing lived...

 

[ItsGrowTime]

Another phylloxera thread here, including info on the plant symptoms of an infestation (mag def that can't be fixed, leaf death, etc):

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=159960

(also tagged for future ref)

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

Okay got Bayar Tree and shrub,

I watered the plants yesterday sprayed them with the aza and pyreth.

Do you think it's okay for me to water with this stuff even though I just watered? Just give me quick rundown. I read both threads but high as hell and really stressed today.

Thanks for any help.

As far as I can tell 5tsp to a 5 gal bucket and drench all plants? But when in regards to the watering/feeding schedule.

Thanks

 

[CovertCrops]

Okay got Bayar Tree and shrub,

I watered the plants yesterday sprayed them with the aza and pyreth.

Do you think it's okay for me to water with this stuff even though I just watered? Just give me quick rundown. I read both threads but high as hell and really stressed today.

Thanks for any help.

As far as I can tell 5tsp to a 5 gal bucket and drench all plants? But when in regards to the watering/feeding schedule.

Thanks

George, I just treated my moms, which I keep in 2 gal pots of coco. I waterd them yesterday with plain water and today I watered them with the tree and shrub @ 10 ml/g. It then says to water sparingly for 10 days to ensure the plants have taken up the Imid.

I have been running it @ 5ml/g in my rez for the hydroton plants. So far it appears to be working. I'm only 2 days into treatment.

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

Oh so I don't water with it then do a flush? I wonder which product I'm thining of?

Anyways, I'm working hard on the growroom, so I'll try and do it tomorrow.

Thanks for all the hard work you guys have put into this. I'm AMAZED at ho9m much this gets undiagnosed or thought fungus gnats and the deficiency gets blamed on water/PH/nutes

A very, very frustrating beast.

Thanks
Smiley

 

[Fat J]

Hey guyzz... sad 2 say but im joining this thread. I got em. Bleh!

GS> the flush where you would follow with water is prpbably one of the pyrethrins(SP?) treatments like BugBuster...

I was wondering if anybody knows... I am doing a treatment using a product that has .25%pyreth and 10% sulphur (it says it controls mold, etc too - prolly the sulphur) and I want to make sure I make the mix the right strength.

Its designed for spray application at a max of 5floz/gal - its a pretty weak concentration at.25 which is why i guess you would need so much more, but it doesnt smell like gasoline like the bbo does.

I'm thinking of dunking in a solution of 2oz/gal - but i dont think i need to flush after as this product has no heavy petrol-based oils so i dont think itll suffocate my roots - but I will be flushing with ph'd water BEFORE the treatment to ensure optimum/consistent results ( most ppl i kow reccomend getting the medium ppm low before any root dip treatments)

Then I will be foliar spraying 2x/week for 3 weeks, will also be repeating the flush/dunk 2 more times each a week apart to try to get all the eggs and break the life cycle of these fuckers.

-not treating for the last 35 days - hope i can pull it off withut them coming back in force.

I like the Imid treatment, but the fact that it is systemic and stays present at some level for up to 12months, just doesnt sit well.

One other thing, a close friend who has been growing a long time reccomends strongly against using neem oil as a root treatment - he says ur asking to kill ur plant - and neem should only be used as a foliar treatment... Any chance the leaf dieoff and ills after treatment were due to your addition of neem? (im pretty sure neem is not effective against root aphids - when applied correctly it will kill the fliers but thats no real improvement)

Good luck fellow soldiers - keep fighting the good fight... ima bleach the shit outta my shit after this round - not gonna fuck around - 20% bleach water, respirator

Any advice on the best concentration for that .25% pyreth would be appreciated.

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

Okay so the killing has begun. I have dead fliers and crawlers on the floor of the flower room.

Things used

Azamax and floromite spray and then spray with dont bug me pyreth. I have a no pest strip in there. Azamax soil drench. Sprayed my drain holes this time as well.

Just like the first treatment, nothing for a few days and now the dead start showing up.

I think the pyreth or azamax kills down the population of 1 or 2 of the life stages but not the eggs or whatever so it comes back in a week.

I have to pull the flower are apart tomorrow so that's when I'm going to treat wqith the Tree and Shrub stuff.

So I can't flood anything in soil(less) mix? What would be the best bet with the tree and shrub for me? Just a basic soil drench?

A couple weeks ago I found some crawling etc. I was getting ready to treat all my plants for pm/mites/gnats etc since they were all incoming cuttings. I sprayed floromite and azamax as well as dont bug me pyrethrum spray. It also got procure (for pm). The azamax was also drenched.

4 days later there were dead and dying in every stage of life all over the floor of the cabinet. Clear/black/crawling/flying. Dead.

Then fast forward to the other day, I start seeing them on a sticky card again. So I go through the treatment with the azamax and the pyrethrum (floromite and procure are kinda 1 shot deals for PM and mites so I didnt re do them.)

This time? No dead whatsoever, not a single body.

Don't know what's diff but I'm going to get some imid. Oh one thing is diff, they were in a cabinet after the last treatment but now they're too big so they're in the open grow room.

Smiley

 

[SickBoyZap]

Yes whatever you do TREAT WITH BAYER T&S! The threads are filled with people who think they're gone and VOILA! They're back and aren't effected with conventional Pyr/Azam/floramite etc.

IMID is Systemic. ROOT APHIDS won't come back as long as the plant has been properly treated. Even new growth carries the IMID with it! I swear by Pyrethins, Azamax, etc. for certain probs. BUT THEY ARE JUST 'PARSLEY ON THE PLATE' WHEN IT COMES TO ROOT APHIDS!

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

Thanks guys. I treated them all day before yesterday.

Any idea when and if I should re treat?

 

[Fat J]

For what product? The tree and shrub?

 

[Fat J]

With a proper application of Imidachlorpid or whatever its called - you should not have to reapply. It is systemic and should provide at least 3-5 mo of protection... which is also its drawback.

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

With a proper application of Imidachlorpid or whatever its called - you should not have to reapply. It is systemic and should provide at least 3-5 mo of protection... which is also its drawback.

Sorry, yeah I treated them all with the tree and shrub.

So my biggest are 2 months old all the way to clones in beer cups

How long you suppose I need to veg before flowering 7-9 weeks?

 

[ItsGrowTime]

Sorry, yeah I treated them all with the tree and shrub.

So my biggest are 2 months old all the way to clones in beer cups

How long you suppose I need to veg before flowering 7-9 weeks?

Im not sure where all this "5 months" stuff comes from. The label on the product itself (the fruit and veggie version at .235%) says wait 21 days for most vegetables before harvesting and 45 days for leafy greens. Im sure you'll lose nothing from waiting longer but I trust the manufacturer knows how long it takes for the imid to dissipate out of the plant before it's safe for consumption. What does the label for the Tree and Shrub say about it? Anything?

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

Im not sure where all this "5 months" stuff comes from. The label on the product itself (the fruit and veggie version at .235%) says wait 21 days for most vegetables before harvesting and 45 days for leafy greens. Im sure you'll lose nothing from waiting longer but I trust the manufacturer knows how long it takes for the imid to dissipate out of the plant before it's safe for consumption. What does the label for the Tree and Shrub say about it? Anything?

Shit man it doesn't say..... that's not good. It says safe for listed fruit and nut trees and container plants not intended for consumption..... no word on harvest time.... the MSDS didn't say either.

Tell me I didn't just make my crop unusable?

smiley

 

[Fat J]

I just got some, the pyreth worked but didnt last and I dont like dumping a lot of pyreth solution... very bad for ecosystem.

*** I went with the citrus/etc one, how much of it do you think I should use - gonna run it in my resi (75gal) for a few daze... herb aint listed on the mixing chart ^.^

GS >> the 3-5 mo was a guess because they say 45 days for leafy greens, but that the product has "season-long protection" which I take to mean at most 5 mo, so for at least that long there is "some" level of the imid present, even if it is a safe very very trace amount... I dont think you ruined your crop, the stuff you used was just a stronger concenration and may need a little more time to break down - did you get the one that has time release nutes in it?

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

Yeah, unbeknownst to me there were two versions and I got the one with nutes....

I should have read better.

 

[ItsGrowTime]

*** I went with the citrus/etc one, how much of it do you think I should use - gonna run it in my resi (75gal) for a few daze... herb aint listed on the mixing chart ^.^

Try 2-3ml/gal. That appears to be about the ballpark range for hydro application, though you can go higher if you want.

 

[Fat J]

eh... shouldnt matter too much, its low strength of nutes, just wouldnt wanna use it in bloom. I dont think you have to worry about the treatment you did, you used 5ml/5gal... the weaker one for edibles uses 1/2 OZ/L, much more, i cant do math right now(trying:20ozsoda=591ml...so 1 oz is about 30ml, so im using 15ml in a lieter - cant spell - you're using 5ml in 5 gal about a 45x weaker concentration , yours has 1.5%imid? mines like .25% - yours is 6x stronger - i think the you applied it weaker than the directions anyway... or am i just way too stoned to do any kind of math? either way, I dont think you got anything to freak out about - didnt mean to scare you

 

[Fat J]

edit above - it was per quart not lieter, but thats for outdoor use to be applied to 10 cubic feet of bed

igt -> you say 2-3 ml/g, what if i was gonna just hand water it to waste once then go back to the resi?

 

[Sickaluph]

I do DWC in 5-gal buckets and had a plant infested with root aphids/phylloxera in the root mass. A few days ago I added about 15ml of Bayer Tree and Shrub to the 3 gallons in the bucket. Today I inspected the roots rather closely, and while I'm not 100% sure, I think all of the bugs are dead.

I used some tweezers to grab at some of them and put them all on a paper towel, none moved, all looked dead... I couldn't find any live ones. So I'm pretty sure the BT&S worked and I'm pretty happy about that right now. Thanks for all the information guys.

The only problem now is getting all the dead bugs out of the rootmass somehow... yuck...