perfect temperture when using co2?
- Thread starter dragunn
- Start date
Mr.Tortoise
Member
I would say that is a bit high. Personally I shoot for 77 with 85 as absolute hottest before lights shut off. CO2 will help deal with high temps but... If you want to run that hot pick a strain that can tolerate heat well. If your running your room that warm I would stay away from DWC unless you can keep your water cool.
85* to 90*F is the temp range where C.Sativa stomata on the plant are wide open. Anything lower and the stomata close more and more. We want the stomata wide open so they can suck in lots of CO2.
I agree with Mr.T though, these temps are too high for unchilled hydro in most cases. Running Co2 is no small thing, it takes a pretty dedicated grower and lots of coin to do correctly.
I agree with Mr.T though, these temps are too high for unchilled hydro in most cases. Running Co2 is no small thing, it takes a pretty dedicated grower and lots of coin to do correctly.
Chem&M
Member
So let me ask you this, should I let my temps rise then? I've been running CO2 for over a year now, but my winter day temps max out at 77 tops. Am I wasting it then? I never heard this. I just heard you CAN go that high.
you are going to hear a million dif answers
it is strain dependant, I just ran Purple Kush in a hot 85 degree flower with co2, but usually I keep it cooler down around 76 degrees.
I have found that a hot start to flower and a cool end is best for this strain,
but some indicas can handle cool temps and do the job well.
my Original Haze x Skunk1 needs a cooler flower to initiate flower properly. one set was with the purple kush's and it was hot, they stunted and did not flower
but some cuts were under a 250 watt and flowered nice at mid 70's temps...
so the answer is i don't know
it is strain dependant, I just ran Purple Kush in a hot 85 degree flower with co2, but usually I keep it cooler down around 76 degrees.
I have found that a hot start to flower and a cool end is best for this strain,
but some indicas can handle cool temps and do the job well.
my Original Haze x Skunk1 needs a cooler flower to initiate flower properly. one set was with the purple kush's and it was hot, they stunted and did not flower
but some cuts were under a 250 watt and flowered nice at mid 70's temps...
so the answer is i don't know
I would try it higher if they will take it, yes. I gree with B. friendly though, it can be strain dependent, and for most purple strains you want to run them cooler towards the end so they color up faster. Most guys taper off their CO2 in the last couple weeks anyway, as high CO2 inhibits ethylene production, which is what causes ripening. Drop it to about 600 PPM in the last two weeks for best results. Also, new studies have shown that weed can't assimilate more than about 1000PPM of CO2 overall, so you only need to supplement about 700PPM instead of 1200.
Chem&M
Member
Thanks Lazy. I can just shut off the AC and get it to 85 no problem, but it'll still drop down to 60-65 during the night. The dehumudifier during the night period warms it up a bit.
I never heard the taper off either since I run a perpetual room, I never thought about it, just always left it on. I've never seen any problem, but if I could be doing it better, then I will! Thanks buddy. Any chance to improve my technique.
Also, OP, strains can go longer out here b/c of altitude.
You can run mid 80's if the plants respond well to it. You'll be able to tell just check growth and see if it continues to rocket, or if its to hot they wont looks as good. Only need to add 7-800 ppm and if your doing dwc/ or anything with water get a chiller. But yah plants will love the heat plus c02. Get like canopy steaming!
I usually running sealed room@ 80-85 tops , so could be a bit higher @ canopy height , but It working out good for me, just fine..... start @ 1000 ppm, and go up to 1500 @ the end
TS
TS
Well when temps hit 80's Cannabis metabolism is moving faster there for she can eat more her stomach is wide open.. if you play music its proven to open up their stomaches too...I used to keep it around 80's 85 87 in a sealed room with 1500ppm at all time and used to get at least a lb per light sometimes almost 2 in each room of 14k lights...
Sealed rooms are the way to go no pest unless you bring em in you can kill spider mites by rasing ppm to 3,000 and keep the smell in one room.
hope this helps.
Sealed rooms are the way to go no pest unless you bring em in you can kill spider mites by rasing ppm to 3,000 and keep the smell in one room.
hope this helps.
Spanishwilly
Member
So, that´s less than 0.5 GPW right?
Well put, and I know full well how hard large rooms are to dial in.
I run two 8KW grows perpetual fashion in the same room, one harvest per month. The 8-light yields have been as low as 3.7#, and as high as 14#. Averaging about 12 now though, which I am not upset about.Looking at them as 4X4KW, my best "row" was on my last run at 1.78# per light without CO2. Now that I have a good idea of what it takes to yield well with my setup, and I'm fairly comfortable that she can't do much more (the genetics are the only thing that changes now) it's time to add CO2 and hit the big, red "TURBO" button. Not looking forward to the initial AC purchase at ~$15K, but I hope the added yields will cover it in approximately 2 months though. After that it's just an extra 2.4# a month or so (figuring a modest 20% yield increase) as gravy on top.
If you drop the CO2 ppms to about 600 overall during the last few weeks, ripening will accelerate by roughly 5%, or a few days typically. Shaving off a few days means the next crop can start a little sooner, a good thing in commercial gardening!
If you drop the CO2 ppms to about 600 overall during the last few weeks, ripening will accelerate by roughly 5%, or a few days typically. Shaving off a few days means the next crop can start a little sooner, a good thing in commercial gardening!
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Thanks for that tip Lazyman! Its hard to find bits of knowledge like that on here. Not many people like to use the word "commercial" in their posts.
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Thanks for that tip Lazyman! Its hard to find bits of knowledge like that on here. Not many people like to use the word "commercial" in their posts.
LOL I guess that's so, I make no qualms about the size of my grows, but I think it's funny how many guys DO grow for strictly commercial purposes but won't admit it. I've had a couple people (even on IC) try and tell me "We don't want your kind here" but for some strange reason they disappear REALLY fast once I get done with them.
Just wanna throw in my two cents, I agree with pretty much all Lazyman said.
EVERYTHING is strain dependent, but you can easily gauge how hungry your girls are by the amount of water they are sucking up.
When I hit that 3rd-4th week of flower and can't keep enough water to the girls is when I have the CO2 all the way up. When their thirst starts tapering off I start cutting back the CO2. From everything I have read, seen, and done you do need to increase your temps when using CO2 to get the higher yields. In my experience increasing feeding during this time period also can help top out your yield.
EVERYTHING is strain dependent, but you can easily gauge how hungry your girls are by the amount of water they are sucking up.
When I hit that 3rd-4th week of flower and can't keep enough water to the girls is when I have the CO2 all the way up. When their thirst starts tapering off I start cutting back the CO2. From everything I have read, seen, and done you do need to increase your temps when using CO2 to get the higher yields. In my experience increasing feeding during this time period also can help top out your yield.
Well put, and I know full well how hard large rooms are to dial in.
Looking at them as 4X4KW, my best "row" was on my last run at 1.78# per light without CO2. Now that I have a good idea of what it takes to yield well with my setup, and I'm fairly comfortable that she can't do much more (the genetics are the only thing that changes now) it's time to add CO2 and hit the big, red "TURBO" button. Not looking forward to the initial AC purchase at ~$15K, but I hope the added yields will cover it in approximately 2 months though. After that it's just an extra 2.4# a month or so (figuring a modest 20% yield increase) as gravy on top.
If you drop the CO2 ppms to about 600 overall during the last few weeks, ripening will accelerate by roughly 5%, or a few days typically. Shaving off a few days means the next crop can start a little sooner, a good thing in commercial gardening!
what kind of AC are you buying for 15k???
Damn we used to get ours custom made in Miami (climax control).. not too expensive.. 5 tons Water cooled ac for around 1,600-2,5000$ if i can remember..... those things where beast..
I never cut down on the c02 tho i've read a few things here and there for the last days to help ripening.. but never need it to my understanding.....
I had my little tricks here and there
feed every day if they are huge twice a day.... flush only fridays 10 14 day flush at the end before cutting and don't feed the last day so they drink all the water in the soil... buds dry better this way from my experience..... and 48 darkness before cut.
Im hoping to set myself a sealed room soon ones I find a better place.. I just moved to california where the grass is green purple or blue
I can't prove you get more growth with higher temps with your CO2. However I can say its nice when you have a sealed room and the AC ain't running. In the middle of winter my AC would have to run to keep my room 75. Now 86 degrees it can handle no problem the light exhaust will even shut off for a few minutes every once in a while.
Spanishwilly there is a noticeable difference in GPW in a smaller home grow and a bigger commercial operation.
