Organic trials, successes & fixes

[grapeman]

I stumbled upon the "Organics for Beginners" thread about 2 years ago. I embraced the dictates 100%. Mixing my own soils as per instructions, letting the soils cure for weeks and months prior to use.

I've taken to making my own EWC teas and use these teas to not only water my plants, but to wet my soils while they are curing prior to use.

After about 2 years of playing this game, mostly with a LC#2 mix and dry nute mix #1, here are my thoughts.

Mixing your own soil is the only way to go for soil grows. The better the peat , the better the outcome. The better the kelp meal the better the outcome. The better the EWC, the better the outcome. Proper use of dolomite lime eliminates most all growing problems relating to soils and ph. I have not used CC's mix of shells etc. in lieu of lime as of yet.

But I have found one drawback. The plants never did quite reach full potential.

The last several rounds I have taken to light feedings of a balanced organic fertilizer to augment the soil mix. The plants have responded by nearly a 50% increase in growth and yield.

This type of difference is simular to what I have seen over the years in farming.

I'm sure some will critique my soil, ewc and fertilizer program, but the plants seem to react best when they are offered additional nutrients, organic or not.

My 2 cents.

 

[mad librettist]

I'm sure some will critique my soil, ewc and fertilizer program, but the plants seem to react best when they are offered additional nutrients, organic or not.

Only if the nutrients your soil provides are insufficient. If you aren't feeding your soil, and it is quarantined in a container, it will eventually lose fertility. Even outdoors, a smart organic farmer is always feeding the soil. People call it mulch.

 

[jaykush]

edit last post it made no sense, i was high....

now i say, i think its time you moved on from LC mix. start playing with some real soil.

 

[guest2012y]

I've learned to incorporate a diversity of amendments that break down at different rates. Since I'm growing multiple types, (sativa's and indica's) I needed a soil mix that doesn't give me any trouble. I found the answer in supplying that greater diversity.
I also tend to add a bit more of certain things than advised,but overall I pay attention to what I last incorporated,what amount,what it was,and how long it takes to break down.
After multiple recycles this soil has improved greatly with a mindful grasp on re-amending.
I'm getting great yields,great product,and trouble free gardening like never before.

 

[MrFista]

I agree with the OP and Jay and Capn. CEC - clay, char, humus. Real soil.

When you have a clay, sand, silt mix with some char in it you'll see some real deal growth going on. I'm now on my 4th run without adding any fertiliser* with no complaints to speak of. Last run everything got too heavy for the stems, this run is a scrog to try avoid that.

* No fertiliser - but a constant supply of mulch including both greens and browns, good broadleaf herbs, twigs etc. MULCH is awesome. Outdoors with no char MULCH plus BIRDSHIT is awesome. Without either the yield drops.

These systems easily compete with an organic fert amended soil. But imo nothing grows as fast as good DWC aquaponics but it's too complex unless a dick swinging contest was called for and prize money I'd rather be smoking my buds and fucking my girl.

 

[5FingrdSloth]

I started with LC's a long time ago and learned it was a good starting point, but moved on.

 

[PrivateAero]

I kinda used LC's, but I didn't really measure anything, I just bought a bunch of the stuff and threw it in a pool.

 

[tr1ck_]

You guys that moved on care to elaborate on your soils? I am about to start with LC#2 with FFoF as the base soil.

I just mixed it today and put some 1 gallon of water with 1tbs liquid karma mix over it. Would it be beneficial to make a EWC/KelpMeal tea to spray over the top as well? Or any other tips

 

[grapeman]

edit last post it made no sense, i was high....

now i say, i think its time you moved on from LC mix. start playing with some real soil.

elaborate please.

 

[jaykush]

well you should know that LC mix wouldn't qualify as a real "soil". real soils have the ability to do much more than any peat based mix can. buffering capabilities, CEC, microbial populations, diversity, the list goes on why real soil puts peat to shame. i would personally slowly add little by little until the consistency and texture of the soil is right where you want it(your a farmer you should know what good soil looks/feels like). i would also stop adding peat and use compost. but that being said i know you like to start "fresh" each run so take what i say with a grain of salt.

 

[Corpsey]

so you would use 5 parts compost, 2 parts perlite (or rice hulls?), and 2 parts EWC?
or would the compost change the ratios. i guess it depends on the quality of the compost, but just generally speaking

 

[guest2012y]

I use a bit of everything available,but have found that the percentage of actual topsoil,forest humus,EWC,and compost is what builds a fine soil mix. There is peat,coco,perlite,vermiculite,and pumice in there as well,those are what I use to create the right texture with. Plus all the other goodies which would qualify as rock powders,minerals,clay,ferts,etc. Every recycle I get that chance to really look at it and feel it. That's where I make any judgment on adding anything to improve the texture etc.

 

[jaykush]

I use a bit of everything available,but have found that the percentage of actual topsoil,forest humus,EWC,and compost is what builds a fine soil mix. There is peat,coco,perlite,vermiculite, and pumice in there as well,those are what I use to create the right texture with. Plus all the other goodies which would qualify as rock powders,minerals,clay,ferts,et c. Every recycle I get that chance to really look at it and feel it. That's where I make any judgment on adding anything to improve the texture etc.

i couldn't have said it better. actual topsoil, the better you can find the better off you will be. even in small amounts will change the properties of your soil dramatically. but to know how to do this properly it helps to know soil, its properties, textures, tilth, etc... what you end up with should depend on your growing style and location.

 

[3gunpete]

what the f is lc ?

 

[tr1ck_]

what the f is lc ?

LC is a type of soil mix. You can read about them here: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=53792

 

[VerdantGreen]

grapeman, try using 2 parts quality topsoil and 3 parts peat, rather than the 6 parts peat prescribed in LC's mix (for the extra part add more perlite if the topsoil is fairly heavy or more topsoil if it is light). i also find rock potash and rock phosphate at 5g/litre of mix gives some good extra nutrition without messing up the mix.

also you should try the citric acid thing, adding to your water.

VG

 

[3gunpete]

thanks!

 

[3gunpete]

thanx for the tip!

 

[grapeman]

grapeman, try using 2 parts quality topsoil and 3 parts peat, rather than the 6 parts peat prescribed in LC's mix (for the extra part add more perlite if the topsoil is fairly heavy or more topsoil if it is light). i also find rock potash and rock phosphate at 5g/litre of mix gives some good extra nutrition without messing up the mix.

also you should try the citric acid thing, adding to your water.

VG

TY VG - a direct and non esoteric answer or comment (as many above seem to be) was much needed. We have a parcel of virgin topsoil that was just ripped to a depth of 6'. I'll grab some there and mix it in the bin for the next round.

I'm sure I'll be pulling weeds for a bit.

 

[VerdantGreen]

lol no worries. examine any weed roots nearby for root aphids and it's best to sieve/riddle the soil and keep a close eye on it as it comes through for any grubs/cutworms.

the main thing is knowing what good topsoil is - and im sure you are well qualified to judge that

VG