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wilbur

more Wattles

more Wattles

These two images show a different type of Wattle to those varieties previous posted to 'organic fanatics'. As High Country has said Wattles germinate rapidly after a fire. When this happens at my place the variety shown here will sometimes germinate in places that are unsuitable for its long term growth. At first the seedlings grow rapidly in the fresh char and small patches of loose soil or sand. But because the soil in these places is heavy, this type of wattle fails to grow to any size. They survive in thickets as stems sometimes up to thirty feet high that are rarely larger than 50mm – 75mm. These thickets are what I 'm weeding out at present with the chainsaw.

The first of these images shows a Wattle with a trunk (at chest height) of five and a half hand spans around. It is about fifty feet high. The second image shows a tree with a trunk of eight hand spans around. It is only a bit higher than the first tree but has many more branches.

The shape of wattle in the second pic is due to fire damage. The tree is bent in the direction the fiercest fire. (Fire has shaped the Eucalyptus you can see too. The light coloured Eucalyptus are what the locals call 'blue gum'. Down south I hear they're called 'river red gum'.)

In some places these Wattles will grow with a clear straight trunk. Sometimes higher than many of the hard-country Eucalyptus near it. But the wood is useless for construction or sawing because it lacks any fibrous quality.

It doesn't take much of a fire or a dry spell to make these wattles drop a blanket of leaves on the ground. As I 've said, good rain shortly after a fire will see these wattles grow rapidly. I 'm thinking the tree in the second picture probably demonstrates how rapidly this type of Wattle can grow. You can see most of a branch about thirty feet long sprouting horizontally from its lower trunk. So I think it's unlikely a horizontal branch could get as long as this one is unless growth at the time was rapid.

When large these Wattles may become a dangerous tree. They have a shallow root system. And a mature tree must weigh a few tons which means a lot of work if one falls across the driveway.

I 've never seen insect eating birds feed from these Wattles or any bird nesting in them. In good seasons these trees produce a magnificence of flowers but little honey can be gathered from them.

Otherwise this Wattle is a very important tree around the sandy creeks here. It is short lived … from what I have learned from the locals here, less than 80 years. It grows quickly, to first shade the ground, then to store water and feed the ground with its leaves. When the trunk is dead it soon falls over and provides a rotting, damp environment for insect larvae.

Then, mostly Echidnas around here, feed on the larvae ... and on and on Nature goes. Which suits me!
 

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SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
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Some very hardy trees all round the old gums and wattles.

Continuing with the red flower theme heres a pic of my hugulkulture bed which has potatoes and scarlett flowered broad beans going well.

 

b00m

~No Guts~ ~No Glory~
Mentor
Veteran
Very interesting your hugulkulture bed bro, nice and simple to say the least :good:
and the plants look happy and healthy too ;)
thanks for sharing and providing some great info and food for thought
:gday:
:smoke out:
 

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
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Yeah thanks Boom simple is as simple does :smoke:

Just a pile of offcuts and small trees, shrubs etc that was destined to be a bonfire. Until Jaykush turned me onto the hugulkulture stuff. A $20 load of compost from green waste at the tip and she is good to go :D-

Must get around to pulling out all the bits of plastic that came with the compost.

Once shes fully rotted down only needs watering once or twice in the summer.
 
W

wilbur

potting mix with ...

potting mix with ...

wondered how to convert soil application rates to potting mix rates so asked Nutri-Tech and here's the reply. might interest someone ... ?

"Converting our rates per ha to g/L:
Soft Rock Phosphate application rate for soil is 1250 kg/ha. This provides approximately 558 ppm (mg/kg) in the soil. Assuming potting mix has a bulk density of 0.65kg/L this amounts of 363mg/L or 0.36 g/L. For 50L pots you need 18g per pot.
Potassium Sulphate 300kg/ha *this rate provides approximately 134 ppm (mg/kg) of potassium sulphate. This equates to 0.087g/L, so for a 50L pot you need 4g/pot.
Organic potassium sulphate granules are quite slow to dissolve and the quantity per pot is very small. If you are applying to established pot plants it may be a good idea to apply a foliar spray as well (potassium sulphate dissolved in water at a dilution rate of 1:10) to give plants a boost while waiting for the granules to release in the soil.
Regards"

cheers all!
*
 

bonsai

Member
SS_OG: Nice hugulkulture bed! I made one at the start of winter, well kinda... A cross between hugulkulture and lasagne gardening. Was about 2ft tall and has dropped waaaay down now, got some mature green manure in there and starting to plant out veggies now.
 

bonsai

Member
Gentlemen, it is time...



Time to collect lavender, that is :laughing:

lavender3.jpg


Lavender is a great for keeping away spider mites, whiteflys, root aphids, probably more. Noticed how no bugs eat it? There's a big clue.
Collect it now -- where ever you see it -- and dry it for the rest of the year. I'm going to assume everyone here has sufficient experience drying flowers. You can call them "lavender buds" if it makes you feel better :tongue:

The basic recipe is 1 cup of chopped flowers in 1L of water. Soak for 24 hours, strain, and apply as a foliar spray. There are lots of variations. Personally I put in a bit of rosemary as well as often a drop of neem oil. Eucalyptus oil & aloe oil are good potential additions as well. Remember, less is more.

I collect as many types of lavender as I can find. In my garden I grow french lavender, and it is PUNGENT. It has a menthol note to the smell, actually clears the nose when you inhale it.
French lavender:
French_Lavender_2.jpg
 

Technique

Active member
Hey Guys not sure if its been mentioned in this monster thread.

but my brother has a friend who is a plant biologist and runs a company that uses 100% organic brews to cure sick plants.

anyway i was chatting to him one day and telling him of my problems i encounter most years with them annoying caterpillars. he suggested i try a natural way and use Bacillus thuringiensis as a cure to get rid of caterpillars.. going to give it a go this year and see what happens! Yates have a product in a cardboard packet @ bunnings if anyones interested in it.

I am sure most of the other things he covers with healthy soil and beneficial bacteria for plants/soil is in this thread..
 
G

Guest50138

Hey G

anyway i was chatting to him one day and telling him of my problems i encounter most years with them annoying caterpillars. he suggested i try a natural way and use Bacillus thuringiensis as a cure to get rid of caterpillars..

Yes Dipel is the way to go,water soluble so you have to re apply after rain,treat plants if you have a history of caterpillar before you see any,if you find your plants covered in them well it a little late as the Dipel takes a day or two to do its job Easy and affective..now if I could find a way to make those pesky Brown Snakes fuck of I would be most happy.
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High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
Yes Dipel is the way to go,water soluble so you have to re apply after rain,treat plants if you have a history of caterpillar before you see any,if you find your plants covered in them well it a little late as the Dipel takes a day or two to do its job Easy and affective..now if I could find a way to make those pesky Brown Snakes fuck of I would be most happy.
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I have found a length of flexible PVC pipe is very effective for brown snakes, tigers or any others. It has to be flexible though so a small diameter is needed. It's flexibility acts like a bull whip, increasing the speed of the blow as it strikes the snake and is usually fatal first hit.

I don't go out of my way to kill snakes but sometimes they nearly enter the house and I don't want that. Snake time is nearly here...look where your walking...especially while going to check the plants.
 

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Snakes, caterpillars and lavender... i know which i prefer in my garden!

Got some tiger snakes around here but they arent too bad. They usually very shy and slither away quick smart. My cat was bringing baby tigers into the house last summer alive to feed to her kittens!

Lavender is an amazing plant. The best defence against spider mites and very gentle on foliage. :good:
 
W

wilbur

the biggest problem with snakes here is during warm winter days when they lie in a pool of sunlight to recharge ... and because snakes in winter are unexpected you can walk over them before realising the danger. 3 meter western taipans here ... 60 mm dia ... very scary.

yr 'tigers' might be what we call 'keelbacks' here. are they an aquatic and swamp snake? when at rest they look deflated ... no not like humans can look deflated ... but like they could do with pumping up to the right pressure?
 
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SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
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Yeah those taipans even had Steve Irwin a bit concerned if i remember correctly...

These tiger snakes are black or dark brown with faint tiger striping. They do get a fair old size and girth but much more dangerous to dogs and cats tham humans.
 
W

wilbur

compost pile update

compost pile update

Silver … here's an update on my compost piles: Zilch!

The goat manure based pile is now a rather limey pile of brown stuff with bits of straw sticking out of it. The 'manure' must have been very leached and impotent. And it seems there's no viagra for impotent goat shit.

The second pile based on previously rotted hay did not start either, so I have fallen back on a pile of human waste and goodness-knows-what other vegetable matter that's been heaped on it at random for about eighteen months now.
This stuff is very potent as I discovered when I used it for my seedling mix. I think 'hot spots' in this mix were responsible for the weird looking Sativa seedling I showed here previously. I think the same thing has happened to one of a number of Indica seedlings I germinated later as it showed the same supervigorous, weird growth the Sativa did.
So to avoid hot spots in the mix when I dig it into the ground I 've spent a lot of time remixing the pile in a cement mixer.
My ground is broken up, but is still not ready because there's been no rain yet to aid the integration of the dolomite I 've applied. It seems Dryland farmers need plenty of patience! They also need vigorous plant types which take advantage of the rain when it's around. I 'm hoping my rather 'old fashioned' strain of Sativa will suit.

My turkeys' nest potting mix seems a winner tho! After sieving and proper wetting I found the pH to be one point under what's considered ideal (not neutral as I previously reported). I applied Dolomite at the rate suggested by Manutec, waited the fortnight they suggest … and lo and behold I have material at 6 – 6.5. I figure this is close enough for the time being and any necessary pH tweaking can be done in the pots later. I just have to figure out where to put my pots and planting can begin.

On a separate matter … yesterday someone gently pointed out to me that 'organic' does not necessarily mean 'nature' and that there is an existing thread for nature and wildlife if I want to post regarding these. So, altho I believe 'organic' and 'nature' to be inseparable, you will hear no more from me in this thread about fires, wattles, snakes or echidnas!

The pic below is a peace offering to you all. Indeed this rose from my garden is called “Chicago Peace”.
 

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SilverSurfer_OG

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Beautiful rose does it smell?

The organic thing is all relative. For instance you can go to Bunnings and buy all kinds of things tagged organic. Many are the ridgydidge real thing (and maybe certified) but others just mean they came from nature but may be mixed with all kinds of crap.

If it pertains to growing weed in tune with nature (in our unique country) it belongs in here. Fires, wattles, snakes and even echidnas are all part of it :smoke:
 
W

wilbur

no worm action ... very poor ground where they are sitting. in fact as I type I 'm wondering if I should move them ... nope, I ll give it to my pawpaws, I think.

I see nutritech gets around the difficulty of defining 'organic' by saying 'biological' farming/growing.
they sent me a flier along with my last invoice that cheers about "Arbuscular Mycorrizal Fungi" together with TRICHODERMA. a 'break through blend', they claim. any interest to you?

the rose does NOT smell, more is the pity.

and getting off thread, did you know that the sense of smell bypasses the thinking/human part of the brain and goes instead to our primitive reptillian part (brain stem)? thus we can never forget a smell. smell it again and instant flashback! but not to time and place ... instead to the feelings we had when we was smellin de smell for the first time ...

thinks: interesting sort of mammals are we humans ...

cheers all!
 

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
No worms that sucks. They are my consolation for slow compost.

My understanding of mycorrzia (from MicrobeMan) is to be any use it must be directly applied to the plants roots on transplant. Trichoderma is a good one but. If you collect used coffee grounds and let them sit for a while they get a blue mould all over. This is trichoderma. It helps keeps away pythium (root rot) and other soil nasties.

I use Nutrifield coco and it has been inocculated with trichoderma. i think coco in general is a good breeding ground for the old trichoderma (and trichromes!) :smoke:

I think it would be a good idea to start sheet mulching with some kind of straw wilbur. That will bring in the worms. Even if you just do it in small areaas you can move the worms to new breeding grounds... just an idea.

Yeah smells are amazing. They bring ya right back alright. That reptillian brain stems got a lot to answer for... :wave:
 
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