Optimal EC values in Hempy Bucket?

[Desert Dan]

I went this route as it was the cheapest.

Tap water pH is 8.0, with EC 0.2 / 198 ppm.

The solution pH is 7.0 after sitting a day in a bucket. This solution has extra 4ml/10l of magnifical, as a test, as i had to give them water yesterday without knowing exactly how how to fix the issue.

The solution is EC 0.9 / 669 ppm in the bucket. Solution in the reso has stopped raising in EC, but now it seems to get lower over time: it was EC 0.9 yesterday but has become lower to EC 0.7 / 502 ppm.

pH seems to be the same, or at least i don't see any difference when comparing the solution in a reso to the solution in the bucket.

What to do to come up with optimal solution for the poor plants of mine?

Your pH is too high if you are using perlite/vermiculite or coco… In coco my input pH is 5.8-6.2 every time.

-DD

 

[pim]

Your pH is too high if you are using perlite/vermiculite or coco… In coco my input pH is 5.8-6.2 every time.

-DD

Im using perlite/vermiculite and will be investing in pH- tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[StickyBandit]

If you get an expensive pH meter be sure to keep the tip moist!
Mine dried out because I knew my water and didn't have to test the pH anymore and when I went to use it again it was toast. Makes an expensive stirring stick

 

[pim]

If you get an expensive pH meter be sure to keep the tip moist!
Mine dried out because I knew my water and didn't have to test the pH anymore and when I went to use it again it was toast. Makes an expensive stirring stick

Perhaps i will at some point.

After few experiments i've managed to come up with a solution which has pH slightly below 6 and EC 1.1 / 837 ppm by adding

- 1ml of pH-
- 11ml of all solutions in the Remo Supercharged kit

per 10l of tap water. Assuming the ratios are now correct and the plants will prosper, seems the fine shop keep was right, and the Remo feeding schedule supplied with the box is misleading. It suggests using almost 2x too much nutrients.

Big thanks to everyone who helped so far.

 

[Dime]

When I first started you couldn't safely go into stores to buy premade ferts without worrying about the narcs so I had to buy the salts in 30lb bags . I found a book that was written by a guy who was contracted by the military for growing in the desert using sand as a medium and it included optimum values for individual salts with formulas to achieve this. I made an A&B solution along with epsom salts and used a bit of well water and trace elements,then you simply diluted to get the ppm value .I can't remember the name or author now but these values worked well . The rest of your variables will determine nutrient strength and your PH and evaporation will effect your PPM reading

This is a safe baseline so you don't burn or starve ,you then tweek it after you get more experience or change your variables. Now I just buy GH 3 part and let them do the math.

PPM


Seedlings: 100- 250
Early Veg : 300-400
Late Veg Cycle : 450-700
Early Flowering : 750-950
Full Flowering : 1000-1600

 

[pim]

Development since yesterday:

- pH has risen in to 7.0
- EC has got lower to 677 ppm

This means the plants would like to get more nutrients, if i have understood my readings correctly, no?

Seedlings: 100- 250
Early Veg : 300-400
Late Veg Cycle : 450-700
Early Flowering : 750-950
Full Flowering : 1000-1600

Thanks for this.

 

[Dime]

JMO but I would wait a few days and see how they like it at that ppm and let them get used to it then gradually increase if needed. You can't force them and can only provide what they want .You can find the sweet spot by watching them react then jot it down in a log and compare over time to get your base. Everything is just a guideline,make small adjustments and don't change too many variables at a time. Just like PH(within reason) they will get used to it in time but if you keep changing it they won't have time to adapt.

 

[pim]

JMO but I would wait a few days and see how they like it at that ppm and let them get used to it then gradually increase if needed. You can't force them and can only provide what they want .You can find the sweet spot by watching them react then jot it down in a log and compare over time to get your base. Everything is just a guideline,make small adjustments and don't change too many variables at a time. Just like PH(within reason) they will get used to it in time but if you keep changing it they won't have time to adapt.

Makes sense. I made a bit stronger juice (950 ppm) and will wait until tomorrow until i feed em again. The plants look already better.

 

[CocoNut 420]

Ec figures are only for guidance the actual figures vary from grow to grow.

Your environment has a big effect on ec, a hot dry environment evaporates more water from the leafs making the ec rise more than it would if parameters were ideal.

Then there's lighting...led needs a higher ec all else being equal.

Going into flowering there's a big increase in demand for nutrient but after circa 5wks it backs off and doesn't need as much to maintain good health.

The op suggested lowering his I put due to the tank ec increasing, that's what I've known to be the correct action that's what I use for a guide for any given period or phase.

 

[pim]

Your environment has a big effect on ec, a hot dry environment evaporates more water from the leafs making the ec rise more than it would if parameters were ideal.

Yup, this is the problem also currently: the environment gets too hot (28-29C) and the air is way too dry this time of the year. I've added co2 bag in the flowering chamber and i'm using humidifier, but unfortunately it's still too dry and hot. I will get more ventilation for the next round, but not sure if i ever get the space humid enough during winter.

 

[StickyBandit]

Hey @pim do you have a pic of your grow?

 

[pim]

Hey @pim do you have a pic of your grow?

Nope, and i prolly wont be taking any.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I gave up on spending $100-200 for PH meters. I use the PH drops now without issues.

Drops work very well, and I still use them occasionally today.

Reliable meters are very inexpensive these days. Look up "HM tds" on amazon for a cheap and very reliable tds meter. pH meters are easy as well. Go to amazon and look up "Jellas pH meter" and if you're lucky you'll find the Jellas brand. If not, choose a yellow colored and under $20 meter. Keep a glass of r/o filtered water to keep it in while not using it. Before first use, let it soak for at least 24hrs in r/o and then calibrate it.

They literally last for yeaaaaars and work reliably.

Hempy? You can use the K.I.S.S. method with epsom salt and calcium acetate (eggshells and vinegar method).

Start with a lower EC.
Supplement magnesium and calcium.
Bump up the feed of the plants still showing mag deficiencies.
Err on the side of underfeeding.

 

[StickyBandit]

Drops work very well, and I still use them occasionally today.

Reliable meters are very inexpensive these days. Look up "HM tds" on amazon for a cheap and very reliable tds meter. pH meters are easy as well. Go to amazon and look up "Jellas pH meter" and if you're lucky you'll find the Jellas brand. If not, choose a yellow colored and under $20 meter. Keep a glass of r/o filtered water to keep it in while not using it. Before first use, let it soak for at least 24hrs in r/o and then calibrate it.

They literally last for yeaaaaars and work reliably.

Hempy? You can use the K.I.S.S. method with epsom salt and calcium acetate (eggshells and vinegar method).

Start with a lower EC.
Supplement magnesium and calcium.
Bump up the feed of the plants still showing mag deficiencies.
Err on the side of underfeeding.

Hey bud, can you tell me the best methods of adding epsom salt and calcium acetate please? Both the watering method/strength and foliar spray method

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Hey bud, can you tell me the best methods of adding epsom salt and calcium acetate please? Both the watering method/strength and foliar spray method

I add calcium acetate to the r/o till approximately 200ppm, then I add my nutrients to the strength necessary for the plants I'm running. With hempy you want to mix to the weakest solution and highest pH you'll be feeding the plant. As the nutrient level drops the pH will go up and then it resets when you top off with plain r/o.

Mag depends a lot on conditions, genetics, nutrient line and more, so I add a pinch per couple gallons for a baselline mag and some sulfur for terps. Should plants show deficiencies, I'll mix some up in a spray bottle and treat a few leaves. When the leaves show an improvement over night I'll add a bit more to that bucket with the next top off. When the leaves show no improvement from the test spray, the issue is def not mag related.